This tool came with this adapter on it. I did do a little searching while I was editing this video and I was unable to find just this adapter for sale anywhere.

They make shorter shafts. They are going to show up in a future video.

Thank you for that very clear description contrasting the two. I've seen a ton of really cheap and poorly made electronics, some without any ratings at all. I like to be cautious about the ratings and like to mention it in videos cause I'm not sure most people think about when they buy things. Thank you again. Your post is super informative and greatly appreciated.

I'm pretty sure it was a security torx, I think it may have been a T10. I'm going completely from memory, though.

I don't have a formal components list other than they are all in the schematic. I could try to make a list at some point. I will not be able to share any sale links, only a quantity and type of component.

I posted a schematic as a community post. You should be able to work up a BOM from that. I sourced most the parts from many different sources some don't sell on the internet. You should be able to get close from the schematics.

Nothing wrong with what you did it got the job done. I never looked for this tool in other plug configurations.

I like to say, "It would have been irresponsible not to buy it."

HRC: Hardness, Rockwell "C" scale.

@olddude7255 Thank you very much!

Thank you very much. I am working on another series with an equal number of parts as the flush cutters. I'm hoping to start recording and releasing episodes in a month or two. I have a few more items to line up, and it'll be a go.

Happy to help out.

Happy to be able to help out.

I like compressing the mechanism by hand, but I guess this is a case of do what works best for you. I feel like I have a better feel for what the mechanism is doing if I do it by hand. I don't think you need to have the belt perfectly aligned prior to releasing tension. Everything should center up on the drive wheels. You should be running the tool slowly or bumping the trigger to make sure the belt is tracking properly after each time you change a belt anyhow. Belt adjustment isn't a big deal, but it could definitely catch up new gamers. At the end of the day if what your doing works for you and you aren't having tool failures, a band file is a great tool to have in the arsenal. Thanks for the comment.

What wore down on the Klein?

@@TalkingHandsTools the 5/16 and 1/4 sockets stripped a bit in the insides so now they are loose on screw heads and the 1/4” has a hard time with low nut heads. probably from using in an impact and not being completely straight on the fastener which will happen being so long.

@matthewwalter3257 Thank you for the reply I'll look out for that as I use mine. If you get a Milwaukee I'll be curious to see which one holds up better for you.

I agree, I really like they have the various shank lengths also. It's not a ton of stuff to weigh down your kit, but it gives great versatility. I'll have a video on the metric set you mentioned and the various shanks sometime in the future. Thanks for the comment!

Lol

If I did not already have a headlamp on my hard hat that gave an easy way to route the cable around, I would have likely done it the way you did going over the top of the liner. How did you modify yours? Does 3M have a hard hat set of ear muffs you could swap parts with like we did with the Klein in this video?

I find the mid depth very handy for quite a few situations. So far, they have held up very well.

I just got a set of deep semi deep and regular from capri there ultimate kit and your right semi deep are amazing in some situations

Great questions. I like to start charging slowly so I can make sure nothing is getting hot. I'd say the entire process took about an hour or so. It seems the main thing is battery management. Milwaukee does not seem unique in this either. It does not seem like the tool batteries balance charge all that well. This is generally okay, but as the battery packs age, I believe this will happen more frequently.

I think both have their plus and minuses. If you don't need anything bigger than 3/8 I'd definitely go for the stubby.

I'm hoping to do some testing with crimpers in future videos. I'm not sure you really need ratcheting crimpers for most things. A big thing is to make sure you have the correct die for what you are crimping.

I have some that are around 25 years old myself. Some were used for more than screwdriver duty, but they are still very functional as well.

So far, it's held up good for me. I've not really had it in a "probably shouldn't use this, but here we go" situation yet. I've really only used it with 1/4 and smaller fasteners. For that use, it's been great.

The lack of rubber on the handles is also nice with greasy hands, but you're right on with putting a wrench on the square shanks. I have a few older ones that have the discoloration you're talking about going on. Maybe I'll do some research and see if I can contribute anything in a video that hasn't been gone over already by others. These screwdrivers aren't particularly high quality, but they just work and were so common place for so long its amazing they changed so much. Thanks for the comment. You brought up some great points.

Another plus, besides putting a wrench on the square shank, a box end wrench will fit over the entire handle for added torque leverage and control.

Thank you very much. I have a pretty long back log of things I can do videos on. I gotta keep editing and getting stuff out. I've restored another older variant of the S114 maybe I'll do something on it coming up shortly. It's amazing how a tool from the mid to late 60s can still be fixed with some basic repairs and maintenance.

Glad u could help out. These are great old meters.

@@TalkingHandsTools Yeah, It is helpful to me. Coz I just got Motorola Digital Multimeter R-1002A. It is Similar with your Simpson. I looking on whole Internet for Charging and Supply Circuit including Operating method but I can not find out. Then I found your two videos that can help me to wake my Multimeter up. Thank you again for created those videos.

@cbtechn247 Super happy I was able to help. Your story makes me really happy. A big part of why I put videos out is to try and help people the best I can fix up their old gear. Let me know how it works out.

Thank you for the video. I have one .but only the +1 is on on the led. Also could you help me out on the fuss I need for it . Thank you

@johnhorvath6797 We do have another video on this meter where I briefly go over the fuses. I do not say their series, however. I'll see if I can get something for you. We do a basic test of the Meters functions in the other video, which may be helpful as well.

Thanks for watching, I have more tools to test with the vice. I just figured I'd take a little break from it, but I definitely have more content like this planned.

Depending on your reading you could probably figure out you have some issues. The higher the number the better. If you have something with lower numbers it might be an indicator of failing insulation.

@@TalkingHandsTools thanks. Anything less then 100 mega ohms would be a caution right

@Hvacnc yes I would start considering other options. I'd have to look it up, but I think anything less than 20 mega ohms would be condemning. Don't hold me to that, though.

Yes it is OEM I believe I got it at Beidlers. I am very happy with this restoration.

Great idea it looks like a lot of their newer line if tools have interchangeability in mind.

That would be very safe to say. It works great, but it definitely runs down batteries.

I might see what all I can get and do a video on what the different combinations within this new line.

Thank you for this comment. I will check that on mine. I've not run it on an impact yet. The way they are packaged, I don't see it being done in shipping either. Did you try the Milwaukee version? I might get one to compare the Klien with.

They seem pretty decent so far. The only drawback is that they don't work the best if you're on nuts that have threads sticking out of them too much. If you're working with bolts, you'll be happy.

Thank you very much this was a really fun project.

Have you had any issues with the set or notice anything quirky with them?

@@TalkingHandsTools No I can't think of anything. I also have Sunex master impact socket sets. I just wish they offered a 3/8 drive magnetic set. I am a big fan of the brand.

A 3/8 magnetic set would be nice. I agree sunex has been a great value for the money.

Is it a back pack style?

@TalkingHandsTools no it's like the milwaukee version you have.

@jasonvandervalk3679 I see they make Super Blowers for Dewalt. Do you have the ability to test what voltage that version shuts off at? I'm thinking it would be 13.2V, which is a bit low, but I'd be curious to find out. For the money, I think the Super Blower is a great deal. You just have to be vigilant about your batteries.

@@TalkingHandsTools no I don't

That's a hard one to judge without seeing it. Does it seem like the battery pack filled with water? If so, it may be done.

If you're already hooked up with a tool truck, I could see where the Snap-On has appeal. If you're the normal tradesmen that doesn't have access to tool trucks, I'm not so sure Snap-On makes any sense in this case.

Most tool batteries don't shut themselves down for low voltage. The tools have that part of the BMS in them. For Milwaukee the exception is V18, V28 and M28 batteries those do have low voltage protection in the batteries. That being said it's why I think it is important to check what voltage the tool shut down the circuit. Many knock off tools seem to have a 13v ish range which I think is far too low and will ultimately damage your packs.

@@TalkingHandsTools Thanks for the information. I'm surprised that's the way it is done. I have learned something valuable! I have some experience with other kinds of lithium battery usage, mostly for solar and emergency backup. Those BMSs seem to take more strict control of the battery voltage and amperage, both outgoing and incoming. I guess that is because in those cases the battery manufacturer has no control over what devices they are used in, unlike branded power tools.

@fxm5715 I think you are correct. The tool companies plan on you using their batteries and their tools. I would imagine if you use anything different, you void any warranties. Tool batteries also don't have very sophisticated balancing circuits in them, so cells occasionally get out of balance. I would imagine if you ran any low charging them could be a problem. Milwaukee M18 batteries are decent to use cause you have the voltage based charge indicator. If you use them for tools like this blower, keep checking the indicator periodically, and I like to take them off to charge once your down to a single solid lit bar. I know they go down to a single flashing bar, but why push it?

@@TalkingHandsTools I think that's a good practice. I suspect a lot of power tool batteries go bad because they sit around partially charged for a long time, drifting significantly out of balance, then someone uses them down to "zero", which for some cells, may be well below the safe level of discharge. This damages the pack, or at least takes it out of the voltage range the branded charger is willing to work with. If a battery pack has been sitting for more than a few days, I always charge it back to full if I'm going to be drawing it down significantly. I figure the charger probably does a reasonably good job top-balancing them.

They work pretty well. It seems like the loud noises get canceled. That being said, you still can hear them if you have the volume low. It seems as you turn up the volume to hear voices, the loud noises start to cancel as they essentially overdrive the system. Hopefully, that makes sense. I will say you can't play music super loud with these, and phone calls aren't bad, but they aren't crystal clear. I've not tried a phone call in a loud environment they may or may not do well with that.

I didn't realize there was multiple versions. How can you tell the difference?

@@TalkingHandsToolsmost of them are using 30Q v3 like yours till around dec 2021, they switched to Sony / Murata VTC 6 - best cells then in 2023, they switched back to 30Q version 6, so far i haven’t seen any bad one yet, i like Murata, very strong and consistancy cuz these M12 does not have balance board, even M18 board doesn’t balance cells and you can tell when you fully charge a pack and measure them to see if they keep themself balance

@TranTek I have seen none of these packs seem to balance. When I repair batteries, I've been matching the cells inside. My thinking is that the cells all have different capacities and characteristics. I obviously can't find an equivalent cell with the same amount of run time and charge cycles, but matching types of cells does match cell charging and discharging characteristics. In your experience, does any of that matter? To be fair I don't replace many cells I normally have to balance charge them and I can normally get the pack working again. I do have a M18 12AH that has some issues that will likely end in cell replacement if I can troubleshoot it and identify the problem cells.

@@TalkingHandsTools if you run across well made cells they don’t sag like that, i seen many bad one and good one like Sony VTC 6 18650 to VTC6a 21700 cells that still very well balance even those Samsung 30T and Samsung 25S LG are very good too Samsung made some of the crappy one over the years and also some very good one

Probably the battery in mine, two years old hardly used and both are bad!

You are correct, I'm hoping to have a future video get into this a little more.

Thanks, I'm game to make modifications for the better. What should I use to do what I'm looking for? Currently, the batteries are isolated, and with the plastic fasteners, the aluminum heat sinks are insulated in the plastic box. I never claimed semiconductors were my strong suit. If there's something that's a better fit, I'd like to use it. Part of why I like to make videos is to show it's okay to learn as you go and make changes. If you have a good idea, I'll put it on the project and include it in a future video. I have another upgrade planned already. Thanks for the comment.

@@TalkingHandsTools So my recommendation after watching the video is that you want to swap the diodes around. You had the right idea of "ground" being battery negative but that isn't really feasible in this application and trying to keep that idea led you astray. I'll explain why in the next paragraph but what you need to do is remove the diodes on the negative heatsink, put them back in your diode drawer. Then take the diodes you used from the positive side and mount them to the negative side heatsink. Connect the negative battery leads to the small tips of the diodes, and the negative of the boost converter to the negative heatsink (the large threaded metal part of the diode). In your final configuration shown at the end of this video is not ideal at all, you don't need 4 diodes just 2. On the negative side, the negatives of the batteries are shorted together through the heatsink, then you connected the other ends of the diodes together. Which is why you could see the current flow between the batteries, the only thing the 2 diodes (acting as a single diode in parallel) would have prevented is the boost converter from accidentally charging the batteries (which it's already impossible due to diodes already in the module). You were on the right track with adding the positive diodes by isolating the heatsinks. However you should just take a step back and combine the 2 ideas. Don't use the negative diodes because they did nothing and isolate the 2 batteries by using the non heatsink side of the diode. So do what I said earlier, use the other polarity of the diodes and mount the battery terminals directly to the tips of the diodes. I hope this helps! Diodes can be a tricky thing, especially when they mount to a heatsink and that then becomes part of the circuit. This is the reason why most semiconductors have isolating pads on them because the back tab is connected to the center pin which is the Gate/Collector!

I can definitely see that would work. I was thinking I should only need two diodes, but I ended up spun around on things and had the batteries in parallel. Thank you. I'll try and incorporate this change in a future video. There's already at least one more video part that'll go out first, and then we can get into the modifications. To anyone reading this is the fun part about building things, sometimes you get it wrong but it's okay take a step back and coarse correct a little and everything will work out and you'll learn something along the way. Thanks again!

@@TalkingHandsTools You're welcome! Happy to help! Yes, when you are building no matter how much experience you will eventually mess up. Just learn what went wrong and keep on building. You'll only get better and better!

This is a convenient size. It was also surprising it moves more air than the M18.

It's been a while but make sure the lever mechanism attached to the trigger is put together properly. I recall it being finicky to get back together.

With the original trigger assembly, it was lost. Once we installed the new trigger assembly, it was good to go again. This has been a great drill to use in the shop.

Thank you very much for the comment. I can try to mute the audio in the sped up clips. Unfortunately, I kinda just hit record and start doing things. I don't have a script, so I really don't know where I'll have lags in the video. I'm still experimenting with video editing. This was 2X speed to try and compress the time a little. Thanks for the input.

It would be great to get into hard to reach areas. It is only 3/8 wide, so it might be easy to dig into the work piece. I've also not tried a lot of side loading on it. I think you would need a fairly light touch to avoid pushing the belt off the tool. I'd give it a go if I was comfortable with spending the money, knowing it may not work. If I already had one, I'd definitely try it. There would be nothing to lose at that point.