I am in the middle of changing mine on a 2016 Tacoma and I need to replace the CV axle as well as the bushing because the needle bearing chewed it up pretty bad. So my question is ...how do you replace the bearing on the passenger side?
I do not have display info on my xt1. The 20amp is good. Wanted to take apart to see if there is a hidden fuse by the display. Thanks for this video. Will open up, but short term - is there a fuse that controls if you get display info - run time, battery volt, etc? Thanks.
As far as my wiring diagram shows, there is not another fuse, but make sure you look up you xt1 and verify. If you have no display, I’d check 1: loose connector at the gauge, and 2: broken/chewed wires (mice can do a bit of damage).
Could someone tell me how the wiring for the two clips beneath the main connectors of the solenoid go? One is red, the other green/ blue. I've seen two different diagrams online and each have them both ways... Currently, I have the red under the red... on the left, blue/ green/ ground on the right (looking at it from the perspective of the steering wheel to the back of the mower).
I’m getting a Pulsating vibration at 50 MPH? I’ve been trying to chase this down from joints to brakes, I have new tires . I have a double cab 02 tacoma any ideas I also live in New England Thanks for your time
Jeremy, Hard to say, but I always start at Tacomaworld.com and search the forums there, and if you don’t find your answer, post the question. The responses there are usually great, and can help guide you in the right direction, just give them as much info as you can on the noise, when it starts and stops and anything else. While my video for this issue is years old, that truck is still going strong with my daughter behind the wheel. In your case, sounds like it could be carrier bearing, front wheel bearings, or this one, but depends on the other symptoms. Checkout Tacomaworld.com forum, and I bet you’ll get an answer.
When replacing the ignition module, it helps to pull the grommet loose that holds the wire bundle to the frame under the gas tank. That provides more slack in the wire to work with getting the new module plugged in. It's almost impossible without doing that unless you have tiny hands.
Ok, so I got all the bolts taken off, removed gas cap, disconnected ignition switch and time sensor, but how the heck do I get the choke thingy off. 😭😭😭 There is so much build up from squirrels and birds I can't see. Do I have to remove the choke from the front to take the entire dash mount off?
You should be able to pull the dash cowling back without disconnecting the throttle. Also, as suggested, working the grommet loose at the gas tank will give even more slack to the cable.
@@tlebel I don't know what cowling is, but google is my friend. Thank you for your videos. I have no clue what I am doing and I have replaced everything yet there is still an electrical issue between the front and the back. Mean I can manually turn the motor and starter and also get the solenoid to work, but it still doesn't turn over or click. Ugh...
@@breeness56 sounds like you have a loose or broken wire. Your next move would be to use a multimeter and start checking wires to see if one is broken. Might need a friend who know electrical or can read a schematic to help out.
@@tlebel hmmm seems like everything tries to crank when I just attach jumper cables. Everything spins. Maybe I should follow the fuel and not electrical? 🤷♀️. I mean maybe something is wrong with the carburetor(google wording not mine) I don't even know what carburetor does or where it is. Off to more research. Thank you thank you for taking the time to help me. Great video!!
Buy this or any of the other Cub Cadet electric mowers and you will end up filing a complaint with the State Attorney General's office www.ohioattorneygeneral.gov/Individuals-and-Families/Consumers/File-A-Complaint.aspx Scroll down on the page and read the complaints that everybody is having with these machines www.homedepot.com/p/Cub-Cadet-XT1-Enduro-LT-42-in-56-Volt-60-Ah-Battery-Lithium-Ion-Electric-Front-Engine-Riding-Lawn-Tractor-LT42e/311630104 Blades breaking! Battery catches on fire! You can't find a certified technician to work on them! Don't waste your money!
Great demo on these two items! What a design nightmare! Way to much work to replace the ignition. I just took my vibrating cut tool to the old switch. When you look at the new switch, it is easy to see where to cut the keeper tabs of. Just slide the switch to the left when you cut the right side and visa vesa for the left side. This will prevent you from cutting the plastic cover that hold the switch in. Old switch out in 5 minutes.
on cub cadet mowers, there are more and more videos about parts replacement..I own this type of tractor..just bought it.. I also have a sears craftsman 14 h.p. tractor, for nearly 20 years..the only thing I've replaced on old tractor..sears.. are the two blades and gas tank..nothing else.. guess cub cadet won't last me anywhere near 20 years..with frequent part replacements.. I'll always have a new tractor 🚜..
Thanks for the video. My reverse mow only worked if I played with location of key. I pulled switch out, took it apart, and cleaned up the contacts. Seems to work now! It was a bit tricky to reach in and push release tabs on plugs. I tried just pulling but plugs wouldn’t release. Scratched knuckles are cheaper than a new switch though! Thanks again.
Ima about to halfto do this can u give more infor to me about what the tools are u use to take out and what tool u didnt have to put in? Also a reference on what parts u used bering and seal wise
Jeremy, take a look at my original comments and link to Tacomaworld.com, they have links to tool and East Coast Gear to order parts. In my second video, I detail the tool I put together to install the new bushing. Fix is about 5 years ago, and still going......
Thanks for the video. Could you post the dimensions of the little steel part of the tool that goes behind the bearing to pull it? Thanks, Sincerely, Paul
Just want to mention that this video was a big reason I have a truck to drive tomorrow. Couldn't get the bushing in square (and I even have a seal and race driver set) until I rigged up the tool in this video. Thank you for sharing - I owe you a beer if you ever find yourself in the WNY area.
So many commenters are clueless to why you did this, because they don't read the forums. The East Coast Gear Supply (ECGS) Bushing replaces the Stock/OEM Needle Bearing on the drivers side front inner CV shaft. Toyota Casts their diff housings, as apposed to machining them, as a result they aren't perfect & have some extra wiggle room for the CV shaft to slop around. This causes the CV axle to noticeably wiggle at higher speeds & throw off balance causing the vibration that nearly all Tacoma's have. (In addition to any other worn out parts) So doing this mod will not quell a bad wheel bearing, ball joint, or Aarm bushing if any of yours may coincidentally be bad.
dominionn09 If you have the specific problem described, the drivers side bearing is the culprit and it's the only one you replace. I did this over 3 years ago, and it's still on the road and doing great! I always encourage people to read TacomaWorld forums for helpful tips and videos, it's where I got started.
Hi I have a 2003 Tacoma and I've run into a problem (or what I think is a problem) and wonder if you can help me. It seems as if when I take my foot off the gas pedal is slows down A LOT. I've read things such as engine braking and drag being the case but wanted to know if you feel the same thing? Do you have to keep your foot on the gas constantly just to maintain speed?. Thanks
