Can you give me some advice? I have an early 1984 FXST. I've had it for 23 years. The ignition system is a lot like the one in this video, hence the reason I'm reaching out to you. The bike starts easy and runs for 10-20 minutes until the main circuit breaker trips. After anywhere between 1 and 5 minutes it resets. I restart the bike and can travel maybe a mile and the breaker trips again. This repeats over and over with the pauses lasting longer and the time the bikes running getting shorter. I was 5 miles from home the other day and the breaker tripped 6 or 7 times. It took an hour to travel that 5 miles. When I ride it after it has sat a couple of days I've been able to ride 5, 10, even 100 miles before the breaker trips for the first time. Eventually it does and "Here we go again." The VOES was eliminated when I bought it, and I've left it that way. New battery this summer. It has a Screamin Eagle control module and had a SE dual fire coil until 6 or 7 years ago when it failed and I replaced it with the OEM coil. I upgraded the 22 amp charging system with a 32 amp. New stator, rotor, and VR two weeks ago. New NGK plugs. New relay. Checked all wiring to lights and ignition switch.Wiring at handlebar switch is good. This was going on before the upgrade so I thought the 32 amps is just enough to trip the 30 amp breaker so I put in a 40 amp. Same problem. I have 3 sets of plug wires. Accel, Speeds, and Taylor. The Accel wires have 35K ohms/foot. The Speeds and Taylor have 600 ohms/foot. 35K seems really high? It runs the same no matter what wires I use. I have Speeds on now as they are only a year old. Grounds are good. Verified stator not grounded to case, even though brand new. I'm going to install a new cam ignition sensor plate tonight and if that's not the cure, then IDK. I Greatly appreciate any idea or solution you might have.
That's a lot to cover in a typed reply. Any chance you email me your phone number and we can talk about it over the phone? My email address is hdrap_1999@yahoo.com I will say one of the first things that comes to mind is: When you changed out the coil from SE to the OEM did check that you used a coil with the right ohms? Do you hear the circuit breaker tripping or are you guessing that is what's happening? If you have the wrong coil it can over heat and after it cools off your bike will run again.
I have this problem on my Evo running with 20w50 oil, can I use other oil? Please help. I Rebuild the engine two times, tryed with drag specialties pump and Ultima pump.
I’d try a straight weight oil like 50w or 60w. If this doesn’t fix it, it sounds like somethings wrong. When you rebuild it, did you check the clearance of the pinion bushing to the pinion shaft?
If you haven’t, I would definitely put an oil pressure gauge where your oil pressure sender is. You remove the sender and then get a fitting that goes in there. I believe it’s 1/8 inch pipe thread. Then read the exact pressure on gauge. It could be just a bad pressure sender.
Hi. I have a 1985 XLS1000 Roadster that I'm switching from Keihin butterfly carb to a CV carb. Easy bolt in, however the throttle cables throw are to short. When cable is installed, the butterfly is in half throttle position. Where can I find the cables for the Roadster with 16 in Apes. JP cycles don't carry this item.
@@RapiersWrath I’m not exactly sure what you’re asking. You can send some pictures to my email and I can look at them and maybe be able to lead you in the correct direction. hdrap_1999@yahoo.com
For a new Chek Ball and light spring for a 1986 Harley softail fxst, I’m without my owners manual presently.. recommendations to source new ones(or do I reuse the ones in the pump now)? Also, can I use your technique of welding a ball on a rod with lapping compound while the external oil pump still affixed to the bike. Didn’t know if I could remove the face to do the work, of the oil pump leaving everything in tact, only working on the check ball and light spring ? I love this stuff yet don’t want to make myself anymore work the needed. Thanks all. Any leads or videos- I’m grateful. G-d bless all.
@@EthanFox-jw7oc I don’t have a way to get the part number for the parts. I would say if the ball looks good then reuse it. With the spring, you cam give them a little stretch but not much. Go easy with it. Maybe lengthen it a 1/4”. You can lap the seat with the pump connected to the engine but only use a small amount of compound. Its important to drain the oil from the oil tank before you start. It’s super important to get the lapping compound all out. I would use a Q-tip but with that you need to get all of the fibers out too. After you think you have all the compound out, pour a bit of oil into the oil tank. The oil will flow out of the pump at this location and flush out any compound that may be left. Needless to say that it’s safer to do it off the engine but I’ve done it the way I described above.
Love your videos! 👍Doing a 55 Pan project. Service manuals are great, but seeing video is a great supplement, especially when they are of such great quality as yours. THANKS! Greetings from Denmark, Scandinavia 🇩🇰
Awesome! Thank you! It’s great that my videos can reach around the world. Thank you for the supportive comment and good luck with your Pan. If you have anything I can help you with please let me know.
@@Rapsgarage At 31:40 you install 1st gear at says it should be basically flush with end of countershaft. Well, mine is not. My countershaft 1st gear end play is 0.02”. I found nothing in my service manual regarding countershaft 1st gear end play, and to my knowledge there is no shim available, just a one size washer (35812-36). My countershaft is a new Andrews, the washer/shim (35812-36) is new and measures 0.057”. My 1st gear is not new but in what I would consider great condition. I find 0.02” excessive, or? Should I purchase a new Andrews 1st gear and hope its wider? (I have put the question up at Harley Davidson Forum - Classic - Panhead section - with pictures, but so far, no response - I can’t include link here. Post will be deleted. If you search for “Gearbox countershaft 1st gear end play” you will find it)
@@Rapsgarage At 31:40 you install 1st gear on countershaft, and says it should be basically flush with end of countershaft. Mine is not near flush. My endplay is 0.02”. Is that considered normal? I have put the question up with pictures at Harley Forum - Classic - Panhead section - no response so far. Search for “Gearbox countershaft 1st gear end play”.
@@Rapsgarage At 31min - 40sec you install 1st gear on countershaft, and says it should be basically flush with end of countershaft. Mine is not near flush. My endplay is 0.02”. Is that considered normal? I have put the question up with pictures at Harley Forum - Classic - Panhead section - no response so far. Search for “Gearbox countershaft 1st gear end play”.
@@Rapsgarage At 31min - 40sec you install 1st gear on countershaft, and says it should be basically flush with end of countershaft. Mine is not near flush. My endplay is 0.02. Is that considered normal?
Nice work! One question - on adjusting the hub you could've just pulled the tube out right? No need to take the tire off again... edit: oh I see now...to clean and paint inside the rim. You sure made mounting that tire look easy. 😅I gave away my spoons years ago, swore never again. But on an OEM antique rim I wouldn't trust a machine. I like how you opened up the frame. It might creep back a little w/out the wheel installed but I'm sure you thought of that. Anyway nice work nice bike...looking forward to hearing that old knuckle rumble!
Ok so I put new rams on the side swing new hoses appeared to be same size filled oil started to move up and down tried side swing blew a new hose could rite and left swing hoses be reversed
That sounds like an over pressuring problem. If the side to side hoses are reversed it would only move in the opposite direction that it’s supposed to. There’s a valve that gets adjusted that relieves pressure once you hit the stop point of movement. If that’s not adjusted correctly you could easily over pressure the hose.
The E-57 plow pump is very close to the E-47 plow pump. This video may help you too. Rebuild of E-57 Meyers Snow Plow Pump Assembly ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3vBLir_09I0.html
To get it on a trueing stand the tire has to come off. There’s a gauge that rides on the inside of the rim to make sure it’s round and not egg shaped plus on on the outside edge to make sure it’s straight.
That was very well explained and shown. This was such an important video to get these spaces right and I appreciate you taking the time to show and tell on how you did everything. This is one of those tasks thats not super sexy on the web but really important to get right and show us how to do it. Thanks
Good video. People should understand, things are never perfect, especially cool old thinks. Being able to tweek things to make them fit is something that's needed often. Retired industrial maintenance, so I've seen brand new things that didn't fit.
Google part number 98606BF. You will see that on Harley’s website that this is for the engine and transmission. I use the right paint. Thank you for watching and please don’t forget to like and subscribe.
Do u have one of these diagram for a 1995 i starting to rewire. My ignition module and have no clue were to start all the wires are cut its 1200xl any help would be appreciated
Google Harley wiring diagrams 1995 sportster that’ll take you to the Harley Davidson website where they have all the wiring diagrams. serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/content/document/view?id=5520
