This channel is about whatever I feel like doing, working on my 1981 Toyota pickup, 1969 Dodge Charger, or anyone of my other cars. But it’s not all cars there’s other stuff thrown in the mix.
No sir I wish I could help ya. I've spent approx. $2000 changing parts. Timing kit , distributor, you name it. Sensors , etc. Afraid it's a MONEYPIT. It's at a mechanics ( so called ) now for 2 months. Same results. I'm bout sick of throwing money at it. May be good anchor material. IF you get resolved , pls. Advise ! Good Luck !!!
Fist thing i can tell you is I'm having the same issue, but i did crack open the banjo bolt under the fuel regulator and manually turned on the fuel pump till gas started to leak out to get most of the air bubble out of the line and seems to help, next im going to order new bango bolt washers to make a good seal. 👍
Do you have to replace the coil with the GM one, if your Toyota one is fine, and it is just the Ignition control module? (Mechanic trying to charge be over $500 - much of that the OG module part)
Same issue here with 22R fresh full rebuild valves adjusted but cant get timing to factory specs . Distributor maxed clockwise i can get to 12 degrees. Runs fine but has tiny miss. Eats oil and slurps the fuel unless i ignore timing mark and advance timing by ear. Found out my vacuum advance diagram isn't working and signal generator inside Distributor was worn and air gap set wrong.
Mine runs like crap. Idels up high when you crank it & dies when you come to a stop. I really don't think my rebuilt Aisan carb is bad but I went ahead & purchased a webber to install. It gets plenty of fuel. I hope the webber fixes my problem but like I said the original was rebuilt a few years ago but I haven't drove it much so I guess it could have gone bad. I didn't buy the regulator, hopefully I won't need it.
How loud is the pump? I have a 2300 sniper efi setup on my 22r and the electric pump the kit came with is intolerable so, I'm looking at alternative options.
@@thelowbudgetguy That sounds ideal but I'm not too keen on cutting into the original gas tank or replacing it. I did however find out that Walboro fuel pumps are pretty quiet and come with a sleeve to reduce the noise. You can buy the sleeve separately so I think I'll try that first since it's an easy enough mod.
Dude , I've a 95 4runner, 3.0 EXACT SAME PROBLEM. NO FUEL past injectors. Removed the fuel pressure regulator completely and eyeballed the fuel filling the rail at that point. Checking injectors is next ??? Ohms,? 16, 17. ?? If you had any success, pls. Share . Thx.
Dislike beause of incomplete info. Where is this wire in the back on the cap and where does it go to & how did you get to it??!! I have the same thing ( a 91 with a 92 motor)
Hey where is the location and what actually did happen (different guy) asking nicely I just changed my head gaskets changed my injector timing belt and water pump spark plugs also I also took the heads to a machine shop. It starts when I fired it up after the job and then it didn’t start after I turned it off
I changed all 6 injectors with denso remanned* and machine shopped heads and mechanic put it back together started first crank then never started again after like turned on 4 times we don’t have a check engine light, so we tested the Ecu which is coming today it has been reprogrammed and fixed due to water damage all worked accept the check engine light so I tested all the wires with a test light and it led to the Ecu everything worked accept the check engine light computer line and the Ecu had a hole in once of the microchips from a mini explosion no smoke or smell though the Ecu was wet so we don’t know what’s gonna happen yet but I’ll have an Ecu today
I had a 71 Hilux I drove all over for 15 years. Going to get parts to overhaul the engine I specified the engine type 8-RC. He kept saying that it must be an 18-RC. I said come look at the sticker on the valve cover!
Did this ever help after running it for a bit? I have similar issue and so far couple friends that had the same, they installed electric fuel pumps and never had the issue again.
U put a 3 way before the carb,there is a reasin u have a return line...USE IT.. all the excess pressure will evacuate with a simple 3 way,some fool put ab electric pump on the 84 4 runner i have and it way underfueled the carb,the triuble mine had was a wore out carb heat plate with a large vacuum leak,i guess its why it was a free haul it away 1984 4 runner!!!
What mark did u first set your injector pump too am in exactly the same problem we got our pump reconditioned and I need to find the timing again as it’s not running right
did you even try to use a gravity Fuel Tank ? I always keep one handy for first start-up after long time sitting. If a temp gravity tank does keep it running then you have pin-pointed the problem and can easily work back from there. Sometimes a coil can stop functioning when warmed up too?
The chokes sets mechanically. Your original power wire to the choke only gets power when running and has enough oil pressure. Recheck your power wire to the choke with engine running and see if you have power.
I run the exact same fuel pump in the exact same location on my 22r. My older pump gives more than one psi. It was an improvement to the mechanical. The mechanical provides way to much pressure. Those electrical connectors tend to fall off while driving. I use a zip tie to keep them in place. I mount the regulator in between the pump and carb. The only problem I have with this setup is the fuel line running dry while the engine is off. I have to run the pump for a while to get fuel in the lines before it will start. I don't know if running a check valve is a solution. Ideally the pump is supposed to be mounted below the tank on the frame rail if I remember correctly. Good job!
