I make hand forged knives from high carbon steel. I create one of a kind art pieces from wood and metal. I make one piece at a time, and I give everything I make the attention it deserves. I take a great deal of pride and joy in the work that I do, and I love every minute of it!
Stropping the edge at the same sharpening angle, will not round the edge, unless you strop plastic knives. Unless you use wrong pressure and overstrop! I dare you to prove wrong! But prove it while stropping at a fixed angle, not freehand. Freehand sharpening and stropping has too many variables.
Thanks for watching! The handle is what connects the tool to the user. It can definitely make or break a knife. Oftentimes people pick up a knife and know immediately that they do or don't like it before they've ever used it to cut something.
Great work buddy!! Or as the English would say … Bloody 🩸 fine job mate! Now all you need is some skin colored pigment and a dab of ca glue! Stitches are overrated anyway 😂
I use diamond stones by Ultra Sharp, and the angle guide is by Wedgek. There are links to both in the video description and on my website www.davidmoonforge.com under the product links tab.
You bet, thanks for watching! 🤙 I did a full video on sharpening awhile back. That might be helpful if you're looking for sharpening tips. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-npKE-Hu4r3A.htmlsi=3mmfhSe7BQtTgRLl
@DavidMoonForge i definitely struggle with it. I also struggle with figuring out if i did the heat treat correctly and have the blade hard enough. I am slow at this and slowly getting the things i need to be successful and making my first good knife, with a sharp edge.
@@chrismansfield3126 keep at it. Knife making is a journey, not a destination. The more knives you make, the better you'll get. Just keep learning and try to have fun with it. I've made a lot of knives that weren't even good enough to give away, let alone sell.
ru-vid.com/group/PLl9h2LphX_wkG4lSsqqjqZy6yaPz6aX5_&si=jNMQ8KK8JAGmfeHd this is what I use to cut sandpaper. Very small footprint and works really well.
Yeah, I've seen that trick using a hacksaw blade. I attached one to the work bench once, but it always felt kind of slow and clunky to use. With the guillotine paper cutter I cut 2 - 4 sheets at a time, depending on the grit/thickness of the paper. That seems to be faster for me. I definitely like the smaller footprint of the hacksaw blade thing though. Thanks for watching and sharing! 🤙
@DavidMoonForge has the blade dulled at all with the paper cutter? Too be honest that was the reason I passed on that idea I thought the sandpaper would screw up the blade ro quickly.
@@TheMotownPhilly no, I've cut hundreds of sheets with it, and it still works great. You just need to apply some lateral pressure on the handle when you cut so that it pushes the blade arm towards the cutting platform.
I don't typically use flux when I forge weld. Soaking the billet causes the oil to burn off in the forge and leave a thin carbon film that protects the layers from oxygen. I've had good results with clean forge welds using this method. Flux eats away at your forge liner, so if I can avoid using it, I see it as a win.
No, I just make them myself. Occasionally I'll have an ambitious friend that wants to make their own knife, but I don't host classes or anything like that. Thanks for watching! 🤙
Nice knife, and really clean work, and great detail in your description, which is always appreciated. I'm always curious about what people do to keep the coffee stain from wearing off with use.
Thanks for watching, and I appreciate the feedback. As long as you let the oxides set for several hours after etching you really shouldn't see it fade over time. Just keeping it clean, dry, and waxed can really help as well.
Hi mate first time watching. I love what you do great stuff. I’m a bit weird I would love to hear some commentary on what you were doing. As I said I’m weird. Cheers not keep forging mate😎😎😎❤️❤️❤️
Hey, thanks for watching! Lol, I started getting quite a bit more views when I stopped talking so much. 😂 Maybe I'll try another video with full commentary. I'm happy to answer any specific questions you have in the comments.
@@DavidMoonForge mate do what you got to do to make you Chanel grow. I like commentary because I learn more it reinforces what you’re teaching.😎😎😎❤️❤️❤️
Many don't know that the original Bowie knife , may have had a blade profile similar to this one , but so little is actually known about it's actual appearance , which includes the handle style !!! If the original still exist in some collection , it has gone unrecognized by both collectors & historians !!! What is known , is that Bowie knives vary widely in mass & profile !!!
Thank you. It's just personal preference. I like the seamless feel of the handle on a full tang knife when I shape the handle after gluing up the scales. You can go through and re-etch the tang with a q-tip and some ferric chloride, but I don't like the idea of any acid being pulled into tiny crevices between the tang and scale with no way to guarantee that it's been neutralized. I'd probably recommend a hidden tang knife if a customer wanted the spine etched.
@@DavidMoonForge i was just wondering. i normally etch the entire knife now to avoid questions like mine when im at a show. but thank you for the information.
Damascus is so brittle and can chip very easily if you have a chef knife, that's purly Damascus just toss it away. it'll chip before you'd have to stone it
2:21 Would it be more efficient to tape the wedge every time and not the knife? I'm sure 14.2 degrees of angle won't hinder the level of sharpness you're trying to achieve
If you tape the wedge instead of the blade, you'll still have metal debris build up on top of it while sharpening, and it will end up scratching the surface of your blade.
I do it that way sometimes too. I think shaping the handle once it's glued up generally gives a more seamless feel. I agree with you that shaping before glue up has a nice look to it when you can see the pattern down the entire spine and tang.
You can apply a stain to darken it, or you could finish it with a dark danish oil. It will darken a little when you apply a finish, and it will also slightly darken over time.
Usually with micarta or other non-natural materials I buff them with pink polishing compound on a buffing wheel. I think buffing wood can make it look a little plasticy. It depends on the type and if it's been stabilized, but I don't buff ironwood. I sanded this one to 400-grit and then applied the Odie's Oil.
You're telling me man! I've got to put the scales on that the customer wants. 🙃 I definitely prefer working with ironwood over micarta or G10. Thanks for watching! 🤙
