It's not the nicest lawn for sure, but the goal isn't to make it look like Versailles. The goal is to have something which can reliably cut the grass over rough, uneven terrain. The 435x does this job very well. You can probably get one now for less than I spent on it, given what the competition is capable of now.
The best tires at Adrenaline has been the Ellipses in the silver compound, AKA clay Scribbles and Vipers, Rawspeed Radars in the Gumball compound and Proline Positron in clay. You can run slicks when the grip is up and you can stay in the groove hope this helps you with tire selection Adrenaline is my home track looking forward to the Vonats.
could you expand on gluing the servo saver? like where exactly it is, how it looks like, and how to glue it? i tried looking online but couldn’t narrow down any answers. thanks in advance.
The servo saver is the little horn attached to the steering servo. It's actually three pieces if you take it apart, with the center (plastic) piece acting like a spring. So I just took all three pieces and locked them together with super glue. If you don't know what you're doing, then I would not recommend it. A better option since I made this video is to get Kyosho's updgraded "Interco Super Swamper" tires. Those actually have more grip than the tires I used in this video and, since they're mounted on lighter plastic rims, will not give you issues with steering throw.
Thanks for the tips and things to watch out for. I purchased a Tamiya Blazing Star a while ago with the intention of buying parts over time to convert it to a Top Force. At the end of the day though, it worked out much cheaper to simply buy a 2017 Top Force that was on special at my local hobby shop. Im yet to build it, but am keen to get back into some Vintage Racing.
Need to keep the plastic tub chassis to be legal in the Classic class at VONATS. A Top Force FRP chassis, with all of the stuff on it already, basically makes it a Top Force.
Been following this build since the beginning and it's actually getting me interested in vintage buggies pretty good. Are you going to be at the Vintage race at Adrenaline RC in September? Would be pretty neat to check this out in person. PS, Is there a video on the Kyosho car? And also, is it wrong that I think this would be an amazing oval car?
Yes, I will be at the vintage race in September. I plan to bring this car with me. I have several running videos of the Kyosho. Just search for Kyosho Rampage Pro-E in my videos and you'll see it there. I can't speak to whether this would be a good oval car, as I don't do oval racing and so don't know much about what makes a good oval car.
This is so rad. I had a go at doing this exact thing back in the late 90's with an XXcr, but never quite had the patience to get it dialed in. Excited to see how it runs!
Nice little laundry list of things to iron out. Regarding the body, would it make sense to go with a new repop and cut it specifically for the mid-motor, leaving as much rearward material as will fit? It might bring the body close enough to the rear bulkhead to run a flipped newer style wing mount as a body mount. I might be talking out of my ass though as I've never seen an uncut XX body and am unfamiliar with the contours and clearances of this buggy and body.
A "fresh" body has the rear section sloping down, so it would not meet the body post on the rear tower as the body would drop too low. So, I need to come up with something else.
Nice project, I think you'll be very pleased with the results. I mid-motored a TRX-1 a few years back. Ran a Green Machine 2R on 2S on turf. It was a blast to drive. Some guys get too wrapped up in "optimal" weight transfer on takeoff, flipping layshafts, etc. Just flip the trans around and find a reverse rotation motor solution and you're golden. Which is exactly what you are doing. Good stuff here.
I think I would try to make a brace to go between the 2 rear chassis plate screws on the left side that wouldn't interfere with the pinion. Drill and tap the piece or use longer screws and nuts. Make it raised in the center, and then remove some of the material away from in between the post to get a direct shot at the motor screw.
For the lower motor mount screw why not use a small drum sanding bit in a dremel and round out a small notch on the inner part of the chassis. That way allowing the driver bit to fit in without taking out the whole transmission.
Yeah I thought about that, but since this is a molded chassis, I do want to minimize holes like that which can create weak spots along the side of the chassis. Another option would be to get a 2mm or 2.5mm (depending on the screw head you use) allen wrench and cut the L-shape so that it fits into the space available.
I will start with a XX body and see what kinds of cuts are necessary to make it fit. If it starts looking way too hacked up, then I'll have to think of something else.
Does this light kit also work with the Orange Defender? As i can’t seem to find the 4 spot lights on the roof rack for it and this looks similar to it.
I raced a mod motor xx in 1999. My dad, an engineer drilled thru the gear box to reverse the gear box. The chassis was custom made with graphite FRP. The battery was also custom 2x3 nicd. I actually restored and raced it last year. It's not durable but was able to keep up mostly with modern vehicles. My xxx tho was much much slower
And now you have the fastest reversing losi in the world. A carbon fiber chassis would solve your problems. The Tamiya in the background looks interesting.
i got a luba 2 and i love it. works nearly flawlessly. the little flaws aren't a dealbreaker and are more of a preference thing. also, did you feel ripped off when the luba 2 came out?
It's not that simple. Which one is better really depends on the type of lawn you have. If you have enough open area with a good view of the sky, then I would go with the Luba. If you have a lot of shade, then you'll need something with boundary wire such as a Husqvarna. Even this conclusion is not perfectly accurate, though, as I do not have a Luba 2 and so I cannot say how much better the RTK + Vision system is compared to the RTK-only system in the Luba 1.
thanks you for the infos ! helps a lot ! would you know which driveshafts can fit ? i found a few that could but not sure if you ever need i made many 3dprinted parts , reinforced and designed by me !
@doctormosfet I was going to suggest a dremel or bench grinder but you're right about the sharpness. Maybe a whet stone like are used for kitchen knives?
I'm not gonna lie , I have always wondered if you could make a belt driven lazer zx5 using the TF5 stallion chassis and changing the arms , shock towers , shocks etc. I mean , as you said , the tf5 is basically a lazer zx5 with some minor differences. I wonder how that would hold up against modern competition.
Well....the TF5/stallion is a completely different animal. Makes me wonder why they have two totally different chassis with the TF5 name. Maybe you could still make a belt-drive lazer out of it, though. Would take a lot of custom work...
@@doctormosfet I agree. The stallion is like an almost complete different car. I also wonder why they didn't make a shaft driven TF5 kit the stallion hop ups (Upgraded CVDs , carbon fiber shock towers , chassis etc). And as for the custom work , I think that if you could pick up Kenon Hobbies's Lzer ZX5 carbon towers which as I check them out shouldn't need any mods to install on the TF5's shock tower mount , I think that would be it. Besides , from my pov , I think that the diffs of the stallion would do a pretty good job on holding the Lazer CVDs. The only thing I can think of being ''custom'' is a front and rear diff cover.
Thanks for this. Well put together for a single take! Have you tried the steeper terrain tyre option? Wondering if that might help it grip rather than chew?
I have those tires for my 315X. At least on that mower, I did not notice a significant difference on my property. I may need to get new tires for the 435X soon anyway as last year's mowing season really rounded off the treads.
Thanks for the video review! I've been curious about these. One thing I haven't learned yet is how the owner sets it up to deal with a concrete or asphalt driveway. Obviously you can't bury a boundary wire across the driveway, so do you just run a bare metal wire over the top of the driveway?
I don't have any setup to deal with going across a driveway, but ultimately you'd need to find a way to run the boundary wire above or below a walkway/driveway. You can make separate mowing zones, but they still need to be connected to the same boundary wire loop.
Binding probably isn't the motor plate but the bracket that sits over the idle gear. You could take the bracket off and sand it where it has a slightly beveled ring. Take that bevel down a touch and your binding should be sorted
