My dude, you have got to stop saying "hum" all the time. I don't want to be a d bag, but when listening to a video, and not face to face, it really really stands out... I only say it as constructive criticism, and not to get you down! Sounds like you have alot of knowledge to share with us, and these "hum" noises just make it difficult to listen to...
I think that the deciding factor is also in what you are doing but the rwd cars are what I started out with and you need new tires for them to work well and that also gives you the opportunity to participate in mini z clubs as the box stock class is rwd and at least at the club I go to everyone runs rwd for every class. You can still drift them easily with charged batteries and out of training mode. I would just say go based off of what is more suited for what you are doing and do a bit more research on what to get for a beginner
Cool. I’m going to mod mine. It was in a box for many years and now I’m restoring it. Bought about 6 of them off eBay for parts and am sorting through my new and old stash. Got quite a few parts. Waiting on batteries. Mine were all about to burst
For Mini-Z's in general, what's the resolution of the throttle? Can you can get the car go very slow consistently (walking speed) without feathering the throttle?
I installed the Kyosho Gyro but didn't do locked diffs. The Gyro works well but does take a little tinkering before I really saw the value in it. The drifts are reasonable to control in the AWD cars already, but you can get a lot more angle and still not lose it with a well-tuned gyro.
How the brushless buggy in training mode? I just ordered the brushless buggy I have a decent size area indoors to has area rugs so I figured the buggy would be good fr that now I'm worried it might be too quick. Maybe be training mode is more like the brushed buggy in full speed?
Tire selection and suspension makes a huge difference. I had a hard time getting my mr03ve to grip hard wood floors out of the box. Driving these little cars in my small front room has been great for learning throttle control.
Hey, great video! I have the associated TR28 (1/28 truggy) and this is great in my apartment. I use it over little ramps that my son and I made and have a ton of fun. Tho, it is limited in many ways, suspension as an example and was looking at the Mini Z buggy (brushed). Thought this could be perfect. One thing I like about the ones we have now, is that I can just slow and then blip the throttle to full for a second while turning to kinda whip the back end around (to get around a tight corner, or to come back the same direction), can the buggy do that too? Or are you stuck with having to make a full turn? In other words, is there enough power to "whip it around"? I am running on smooth tile floors.
Thanks a lot for the comparison! I’m thinking of buying one or two cars for me and my kids. We have the street outside but also a room with 3x3 meters of space to drive. The buggy seems best for the street but not for the indoor area. Hard to decide.
Absolutely the right thing to consider. It is a tough decision, but the buggy is the more flexible option if you have limited space or any carpeted areas. Hard wood driving with the drift cars inside is awesome, and fun to setup a small course, outside is buggy only territory. I’d decide where you are most likely to use them, and choose based on that. If you don’t have hardwood or similar, the setup is tougher if the room isn’t dedicated. My family ended up with a variety over time, and I love them all.
@@michelecristino3794@ Michele Cristino, the buggy is great to drive at home! The MINI-Z Buggy Readyset is a good place to start. The more open space you can set up at home, the better, but luckily the buggy is great at driving on tile, wood, and carpet - so you can have fun with it.
I remeber the sounds from this printer at my school and I just got a chanse to buy one of these new from a warehouse with 5 cartridges for 250 but it's a 40 mile drive how do you think this printer stands in 2019
And to think I was just about to buy a 3D printer..but after seeing this video and the outcome ..I'll pass, I'll just stick to my cnc plasma, vinyl plotter and epilog laser engraver and leave the 3D printing for someone else..
do you have any video of your product working, can you send them to me? I have a trio and two duos that are not going anywhere and will need this product when they EOL this machine.
CubePro Trio review. I have decided to share my experience with CubePro 3d printer. I have this printer for 18 months and I have tried all variants of filament materials, that the manufacturer offers. I have printed many models but unfortunately more models where destroyed or misbuild then successfully build. The printer cannot give you what the manufacturer and salesmen’s promises to you. Design - first touch is very impressive and nice. The printer design looks nice and smooth. Is completely enclosed and no moving parts are mounted outside so the cube is the only space it needs. Build chamber id lighten up und the front and rear panel is transparent so you can see your model emerging. The printer is very user friendly, the full color touch displays is intuitive and setup wizards guides the user thru maintenance and trouble shooting. The filament cartridges handling and replacement is very easy. Also the print preparation is easy. The printer comes with all tools necessary to maintain it.But this is all what the printer offers on positive side. User software - software is very user friendly and easy to use, but it is very buggy. It crashes for no reason. When you try to customize the build options the software is not able to create support for models on edges and ignores the sidewalk options and perforation. The same happens when you enable the fine detail options. And also if you move your models on build platform the software is not able to create the build program and crashes. When you leave all in default settings it works fine, but the default option is suitable only for small and easy models. On bigger and more detailed models you need to adjust this setting or you will see how the printer vastest tons of material or the model is misbuilded.The software updates come out very often, but the major bugs are not fixed, mostly new features are added. I don’t know what the software engineers or testers do that they don’t find this bugs. I have the feeling that they just ignore this bug reports. Firmware - the firmware for model building is very buggy. The print algorithm causes sometimes collisions especially when you have more than one model of different shape or color. Ones the collision was so bad that it damaged one of the print heads. When the printer pauses the print for layer cooling and hardening a small amount of filament comes out of nozzle and instead to clean the head (the printer is equipped with very nice cleaning mechanism with waste bin) the printer continues to print and damages the model, so you have to post process the model with sandpaper or knife or you throw the model away and build it again and you hope that this time it will be not that bad.Firmware updates are also very common, but again instead of fixing the bugs, the only concern of the manufacturer is to ensure that the user uses only the genuine filament cartridges by improving the security algorithm for filament cartridge chip validation. (you will find lots of articles to this when you google a little bit) Mechanics - the mechanics is designed on strong chassis with very solution for y-axis (it uses two step motors) the mechanics is well prepared to handle motions dynamics. The cabling and filament guide pipes are installed very professional.The problem is the sliding bearing which are pure quality and they causing movement jams and noises. This leads to model misbuilding by shifting of layers. The electronics causes also trouble. My printer was in service center twice for both problems, but they replaced only the mainboard (twice) the sliding guides are still the original ones installed in factory and causing still the same problems.The filament feeder mechanism is good but too precise for the poor quality of the filament string. This causes the user to disassembly the mechanism and clear it every time when a jam occurs (what is in most abs filament very often). This procedure is time and patience consuming. Filament cartridges - oh yeah, the biggest problem for this printer. At first I liked the idea that the cartridges are equipped witch ID chip which provides all the necessary info for the printer what type and color of material is inserted, but this is not the main role of this chip (you can do this with barcode is cheaper than the chip), the main role is to ensure that you use the genuine cartridges provided by 3ds! This should be not the issue if the price is fair for the quality and material amount. Chips are faulty, there is only 680g of material and the string miserable quality for 99 Euro. I have tried all types of materials and many colors.ABS - the worst material. Avoid it at any cost. Especially the red one. Strings has too many defects and causing filament jump! The printer build platform cannot handle the ABS shrink properties and it gets bended or the first layer is fused into platform. The print algorithm for this material can compensate for abs material properties and the printed models look terrible. Big models are NO GO for abs!PLA - this is the right material for this printer. The models are good, no shape shifting, good surface quality. The problem is only, when the filament is in printer for more than 3 weeks, the string starts to crack in guide pipes, what leads to filament jump in print head. To get the filament then out of guide pipe is not an easy task. When the string cracks near the entrance of the cartridge, it is pulled inside and you have no option but to open the cartridge and get the string back to where it belongs and of course you lose the warranty to this cartridge.NYLON - very strong and good material, but the printer cannot handle it. When the print is paused for layer hardening, the filament is overheated and you see burn mark in model and of course the filament comes out during this pause and the printer do not clear the head and destroys the model! Interesting is also the fact that you cannot configure the printer software to use different materials when nylon option is used for other print heads. So when you want to use different material then nylon you have every time to reconfigure your print software. Multicolor printing - forget this feature! It is brutally time consuming for printing, because the printer cools down the head which is currently not used reheats it again when it needs it. (which is of course on each layer). This leads to material overheat and waste during this process, because the printer releases a string to waste bin to get the over burned material out of nozzle. The different material color causes by fusing (because there intersects on multicolor model) deformations and the model looks not that pretty. It is better to print monochrome models or the different color parts sparely and the assemble them than together. Which requires good skills be model design to reflect the different color material properties, so that the parts fit together ;) Service and support - the onsite technician which has done the service for my printer has done his best. His hand was in many cases tighten by manufacturers service contract. All troubles have to be verified by manufacturers tech support and they didn’t listen to problem descriptions provided by customer. They wanted photos and videos, so I did my best to satisfy their need to make proper analyses of my printer’s issues. But in the end they ignored everything and send me stupid instructions that never solved the issue. My printer has mechanical problem proved by video and they told me to update firmware. Of course it didn’t solve the problem, only expensive filament was wasted on next model. In the end the motherboard quitted and the printer was taken to service center for repair. I waited 3-4 weeks for its return and they of course changed the mainboard for a one with defective usb port, so the center has to wait for new mainboard again. After return the mechanical problem is still present. They give me of course advise to lubricate the faulty bearings regularly. Cool idea to lubricate those bearings when the bearing manufacturer forbids this, because dust is collected in this lubricant its pulled then inside those bearings and they get slowly damaged. So now I’m waiting for total failure of those bearing. Software issues are ignored by default at support. Filament and spear parts supply is short and it takes weeks to get it. Final assessment - the idea of user friendly 3d printer is very good and this printer has mastered most of this idea good. But the philosophy to get huge money from customer for cartridges is a gall. The printer is not able to print what the manufacturer promises. The support is ignorant and incompetent. The printer is not worth its price. You will be very fast disappointed. I regret this purchase. There are better printers on the market that this one. They are cheaper, maybe uglier and more skills are necessary to operate them, but you will get the output you want from it. This printer is pure waste of money. Maybe another manufacturer will inspire their product by the philosophy of user friendliness, case design and software interface.
Alex Jadoo - No, you can rescale the model in the cubepro tools. I generally find it is easier to do so beforehand, however, it's not a big deal to scale in the cube print tool.
thank u. also what about poly count, wall thickness or any other specifications for the mesh? Is there any way to verify the model meets the specifications before printing? I used Autodesk Netfabb to check it and it looks ok
Hello All, I am NEW to 3D printing PERIOD. I am aware of the technology but have never been introduced t it until now. I have access to a CubePro Trio. As far as pulling it out of the box and setting it up, I am in the dark. I have been looking for a video showing all of the basics of the set up. I cut loose the head, and am holding off installing the wiper tray to make sure I understand what the book is telling me. I know nothing about calibration or the software needed to create models in. Any help would be appreciated greatly. Thank you All.
how do you remove the heated wax or glue on the plate? what is the best or fast way to remove the heated wax? or I can print without wax or glue? is that safe? It's hard to remove the heated wax. maybe you can help me about my problem. thank you in advance :)
The easiest way is to soak it in very warm water, after several minutes the glue will dissolve and the part comes right off. I've tried without the glue, but I get better results with it. Just use a nice thin layer by doing tight swirls and it will release in water perfectly. I usually just leave it under a running hot faucet or soak in a sink.
I know your problem was years ago now going buy the dat of your video, so I guess you must have resolved it by now, but I had this problem badly. I replaced all obviously bent or damaged parts after a couple of crashes and problem persisted. Eventually I also replaced the "Main Rotor housing" at the top of the mains shaft and bingo! Heli flies nice and smoothly again. That part must have been slightly bent/twisted or distorted from the many crashes until it was just out far enough to cause an imbalance which then caused the tail to bob up and down.
+Hugh “TradCatBatch” Batchelor :) I eventually replaced all of the parts as well, but I like your theory. I received some relief by using the softer rubber/silicon bushings, but then the head was less responsive. A slight imbalance seems like a probable culprit.
At that price that bed should be heated.Robo 3dR1 is heated for lots less and the TAZ5 is heated and both can use just about any filament on the market.
it seems like you have calibration issues. have you done the Z-Gap and the plate calibration man? Sorry if you have mentioned it in your video and I missed it.
@00mandingo00 The print times can be reduced significantly depending on your settings at build if you run the high resolution solid honeycomb infill it will take 4x the base print , if he set the Keychain to standard almost solid line infill, lowered base and top layers by one and outer walls by one he could print it in 9 min ;)
As far as creating multiple color prints...it's a problem. Lol, the way to do it currently is just as you describe with a twist. In this case you'd create the Keychain export and then create the letters and export. Using a 3rd party software called meshmixer you can open both of the exported models and put them together. I haven't tried opening them both in cube software yet, but I know you can open multiple models and build them on one build I just don't know if you were to stack them in the software and build them would the printer do this during print
