It helped, but there's still a noise. The Car Care Nut Sienna video says that another potential cause for noise is the spline that goes on the intermediate steering shaft goes bad, and you should replace this shaft if the noise bothers you. But unless it's really loose and the U-joints are about to fall off, it's not a major cause for concern.
Another cheap fix is to spray a/c coil cleaner foam over the condensor in front of the radiator. A $6 bottle from Home Depot brought my temps down a few degrees more. A cleaner condensor = better airflow = better cooling.
Perhaps thats the answer to my ac not getting as cold as it should be. I plan to check mine. I may attck it different though. Like, go up from the bottom where it comes out and run a plastic drain cleaner tool through it. You know the kind you use for bath sinks. It's flexible. It may not work but worth a try. There has to be something i can 'back run' it with. Come to think about it i have not seen a water puddle under it this year, hummm?. This problem you found the answer for, needs to be posted in the Toyota forums. I would like to of seen the opening underneath the vehicle but I'll find it anyway.
Just went out and Pulled off that hose and run air through it. It's clean. No excessive water came out, so it working. The Cabin air filter was clogged up bad and thats what caused the lack of A/C coming through. Plus dinner napkins overflowed the Glove box and where stacked up against the air intake! That was the main problem.... So now life is good. It reads out at 50 degrees at the vent. Normal Temp.
@@bobr2959 hey that's great you found the problem. Yes I did post this in SiennaChat; didn't get much response. www.siennachat.com/threads/sienna-ac-trouble-shooting.76051/#post-468574
BTW, I tried different things to clear the line from under the car. Wire, plastic weed whacker lines, etc. Nothing worked because the hose bends in multiple places.
A similar scenario happened with my 2001 Camry. A JUNE BUG got stuck in the drain hose in the section that is below the floor of the vehicle. And over time, I guess, some more debris accumulated and completely blocked off the flow. Once cleaned out, the AC functioned just fine... Sometimes it is the most SIMPLE of things...
Very nice video. I got here because I am learning how to use my scanner. I have the d7w but can not find the short and long term settings on my 06 350z. My question to you is can older provide the ability to read fuel trims?
An older scanner should be able to show fuel trims. But the fuel trims are generated by the ECU, so you are dependent on the ECU to put out the signals to your scanner. To be sure if the fuel trims are available on you scanner, just use the scanner on your friend's car and see if it's there. My $11 eBay scan tool (Kingbolen Y101) puts out short term and long term live readings. Lastly, check the Live Data module under Engine in your D7W. Perhaps it's there. Good luck and tell us how it goes!
@@slacker_DIY Thank you for the very sage advice. I spend a about 4 hours trying to find the fuel trims on the live data feature of my expensive d7w scanner with no luck. Ijust got on line a used creader vII that has a nice live data feature that allows me to read the fuel terms. I will be checking the fuel term tomorrow to see how acceleration affects the term. I will post my results. Thanks again for the valuable information.
@@fredguerra4917 on the 5th picture from the left, there is "Live Data" in the screenshot. I'm assuming you checked there. I'm hoping you can still find these fuel trims on your expensive scanner. www.xtoolglobal.com/products/xtool-d7-d7w-full-system-diagnostic-tool-key-programmer-scanner-more-stable-wifi-connection-with-ecu-coding-obd-2-scanner
@@slacker_DIY I was able to find live data no problem. There is no fuel trims what so ever. I have heard that the older d7 sometimes shows the trims for my Nissan. Well, I just purchase a lower price creader VII+ reader that does show the trims. Will post the results.
I did try. I used my scan tool to activate the compressor magnetic clutch. It would stay on for a second, then turn off. No explanation why. My car mechanic friend who was helping me said it's probably the compressor. In the end, I suspect it was the high pressure switch that was bad, and I should have checked that first before I went into the shop. There are three wires into the sensor and if I jumped the wrong pair, I could have blown out the AC computer. Then after spending all the dough, I found another video where you just put a continuity meter on the sensor itself and that would have given the answer. Well, that's why you here are reading this right?
Good find! Looking back it should be a common issue. When my home AC stops working, I would put vinegar in the water condensation tube, go outside a few hours later and suck out all the water and waste with my wet/dry suction. AC works again!
Use a better filter, if drain is cligged the say the dirt is getting thru the filter and getting onto the coils and when coils condensate it washes the dirt into the drain therefore clogging the ptrap
My friend's Accord was leaking pretty bad on to the front passenger side floor. I check the A/C condensor hose, but it was clear. Eventually after spraying the windshield with a garden hose, I got some drips from the blower motor. Removing the blower motor, I found the air filter was wet, which lead me to check the cowl, which was a pain to remove. Finally, I found that the drain in the cowl area was clogged on both sides of the car. Hope this video helps someone!
Thanks! It's amazing how exposed the filter is to the elements. On a Lexus, using the recirculate button will close off the air inlet, but I didn't try the same on this Accord.
This is the only video on RU-vid that is useful for this generation Honda Accord. Thank you very much for filming this and showing it. I also have to remove this plastic casing. I'm even afraid to take it off to check how it drains.
Freon was low. $20 fix. I also replaced the serpentine belt $30. The old one was cracking and not gripping the A/C compressor pully and water pump pully (my temp guage was slightly higher than usual).
Check your relay box & turn the cover over. It should have a diagram of all your relays. Tap the AC one with the head of a screwdriver. If that doesn't work, switch the AC relay with the horn. See if either fixed the problem. There are several videos on this on RU-vid that can help. You can buy a new AC relay at an auto parts store for under $30, just bring in the old one.
Yes, the muffler shop cut out the front flange from the catalytic converter and replaced with a flex pipe. Problem solved! I don't like to change out OEM parts, but this being a budget build, this was the best solution.
