From custom car builds, LIKE OUR 68 JAG XKE 2+2 with a 383 SBC stroker turbocharged with a 2 speed (lo & go) powerglide to our 1970 446 6pack Roadrunner, we have a lot going on. And in case you need to fix pool cleaners and almost anything else, you'll find it here. We have been mechanical and electrical purveyors for over 80 years combined experience. Some of the tough fixes we have videos on. We hope you enjoy. God Bless America AND REMEBER, ANYTHING YOU SAY OR POST WILL BE USED AGAINST YOU AT SOME POINT IN YOUR PROSECUTION.... Don't doubt me :)
Actually, the encoding and the v band surfaces was very thin. And has no issues... But the amazing thing is. The heat is contained in those exhaust pipes in my fan, which usually runs constantly trying the cool. The ran eater down below 195°, didn't come on at all. A day when it was eighty degrees outside... I'm amazed at how well this stuff worked... And the coding itself is like iron clad... Extremely difficult to even grind off with the grinding wheel.. It's some pretty good stuff. And it even keeps its finish, so I would say get er done... It's one of the few things in this automotive game that actually works. That's good as promised
When you said first thing we can see my first thought was crappy welds. I mean they'll do but they don't look great, could have been grinded to blend it better
probably the connection to the drive motor. It should spin same as the fan when powered up. The wire may be bad internally. Go farther down the wire to the drive motor. It my be black and dead where it is connected now. I had to go down 3 inches from where it was. You can always splice in more wire f you need
Hi Bev, a bit late, but the plastic fan may be loose on the shaft. you can put a drop of epoxy or super glue on the shaft, just make sure to not let the glue run down the shaft into the motor bearing...put glue on and turn motor upside down to keep glue away from bearings
by the way, the power coming out of your power supply is DC ,, they would never put AC voltage into the pool via a wire attached to the aquabot,, you could hook up a car battery to the aquabot and it will run,, so DC < NOT AC
It is indeed AC. There's no rectifier in the power supply box so straight AC from the transformer. Just like the underwater lights in a pool, it's AC. Low voltage (~ 36 V), low current and properly working circuit breakers prevent electrocution.
@@KENFEDOR22 I can confirm that it is just a timer circuit fuse and transformer in the power units for this auqabot. I have been using the transformer as a linear power supply for about a year now where i swapped the timer circuit box for a bridge rectification and smoothing circuit to make the AC power DC for bench use. A car battery would not be able to run this device as the motors are of the kind that need a oscillating current in order to create magnetic fields in sequence and drive the motor shaft into rotation. That and it uses 35ish volts that is delivers under load of ac and a car batter only puts out 12v dc and the voltage from that car battery would fall over a few minutes to probably around 10 or so as they are meant to start car engines and built to be able to providing hundreds of amps to drive the starter for a few seconds at most not for continuous load or deep discharge.
A very informative video Frank, thank you! I have a nine year old Aquabot T Turbo which I had running in the pool last year whilst I went to the store. On my return it was dead and the power cable was tangled around one of the brushes. Initially I thought the motor had burnt out, but after viewing your video this year I decided to investigate further. I quickly came to the conclusion that the power cable was potentially snapped by the handle. After splicing the flotation cable back that was confirmed! Both the brown and white wire had broken. I purchased 14-16 gauge watertight heat shrink butt connectors and a marine heat shrink tubing assortment from harbor freight (albeit only needing the 1/2" diameter) at a cost of $8.50 and my Aquabot is fully functional again, YAHOO!
all pricy and a sign hole for parts and replacemnts. spare parts never the same. i have a turbo classic. New drive motor with connectors. My old had direct wire connect with heat shrink ? Where to get this heavy shrink tubing; OR. add connectors to my old pump motor; OR cut the connectors off my new drive motor ? What a disaster of a design !
Ed, cut off the connectors on the new motor/ old cable too. and solder to motor/cord wires. Put multiple pieces of heat shrink over the wires first and slide them out of the way, then solder and heat. heat shrink is at harbor freight...let me know if you need any help
Thank you, Frank! My Aquabot is 15+ years old, I've replaced nearly every part and, for the second time in five years, it's the cord. Continuity tests are quick and easy and can save valuable time. Yeah, I'd rather be in the pool, drinking a beer and listening to El Rusbo too!
