If you plug it in, and it doesn't go, try this....especially if both motors are not running. E.Z. fix...just take pics when disassembling. Save you a cool $1,000 7/2017
A very informative video Frank, thank you! I have a nine year old Aquabot T Turbo which I had running in the pool last year whilst I went to the store. On my return it was dead and the power cable was tangled around one of the brushes. Initially I thought the motor had burnt out, but after viewing your video this year I decided to investigate further. I quickly came to the conclusion that the power cable was potentially snapped by the handle. After splicing the flotation cable back that was confirmed! Both the brown and white wire had broken. I purchased 14-16 gauge watertight heat shrink butt connectors and a marine heat shrink tubing assortment from harbor freight (albeit only needing the 1/2" diameter) at a cost of $8.50 and my Aquabot is fully functional again, YAHOO!
Thank you, Frank! My Aquabot is 15+ years old, I've replaced nearly every part and, for the second time in five years, it's the cord. Continuity tests are quick and easy and can save valuable time. Yeah, I'd rather be in the pool, drinking a beer and listening to El Rusbo too!
probably the connection to the drive motor. It should spin same as the fan when powered up. The wire may be bad internally. Go farther down the wire to the drive motor. It my be black and dead where it is connected now. I had to go down 3 inches from where it was. You can always splice in more wire f you need
Hi Bev, a bit late, but the plastic fan may be loose on the shaft. you can put a drop of epoxy or super glue on the shaft, just make sure to not let the glue run down the shaft into the motor bearing...put glue on and turn motor upside down to keep glue away from bearings
all pricy and a sign hole for parts and replacemnts. spare parts never the same. i have a turbo classic. New drive motor with connectors. My old had direct wire connect with heat shrink ? Where to get this heavy shrink tubing; OR. add connectors to my old pump motor; OR cut the connectors off my new drive motor ? What a disaster of a design !
Ed, cut off the connectors on the new motor/ old cable too. and solder to motor/cord wires. Put multiple pieces of heat shrink over the wires first and slide them out of the way, then solder and heat. heat shrink is at harbor freight...let me know if you need any help
by the way, the power coming out of your power supply is DC ,, they would never put AC voltage into the pool via a wire attached to the aquabot,, you could hook up a car battery to the aquabot and it will run,, so DC < NOT AC
It is indeed AC. There's no rectifier in the power supply box so straight AC from the transformer. Just like the underwater lights in a pool, it's AC. Low voltage (~ 36 V), low current and properly working circuit breakers prevent electrocution.
@@KENFEDOR22 I can confirm that it is just a timer circuit fuse and transformer in the power units for this auqabot. I have been using the transformer as a linear power supply for about a year now where i swapped the timer circuit box for a bridge rectification and smoothing circuit to make the AC power DC for bench use. A car battery would not be able to run this device as the motors are of the kind that need a oscillating current in order to create magnetic fields in sequence and drive the motor shaft into rotation. That and it uses 35ish volts that is delivers under load of ac and a car batter only puts out 12v dc and the voltage from that car battery would fall over a few minutes to probably around 10 or so as they are meant to start car engines and built to be able to providing hundreds of amps to drive the starter for a few seconds at most not for continuous load or deep discharge.
