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Welcome to a world of video games, digital entertainment, and technology, viewed through a lens of a seasoned pre-internet gamer and tech enthusiast.
This channel and the website focus on “fun and games”, and their primary purpose is to serve as a creative outlet and an online repository of content I create.
Have you tried using oversized actuators on this lever like the OTTO DIY? I have this lever and I’m curious if other actuators will also work (most are advertised as for Sanwa JLF only).
I know it sounds weird but do you know if there is still a kit to make an arcade stick compatible with PS1 and PS2 or at least only with PS2? I know how to solder if it´s required XD. I saw some in aliexpress but since I don´t see any comments I´m not shure to buy.
Not weird at all - it's a good question. There are a few options for PS1 and PS2 adapters for your arcade stick. 8BitDo makes one for their controllers called "Retro Receiver for PS" - this one wireless and best option if you have the 8BitDo Arcade Stick. Check it out at www.8bitdo.com/retro-receiver-for-ps/ Brook makes an adapter called "Wingman PS2" - this one is wired and wireless. You can check it out at store.brookgaming.com/products/wingman-ps2. I hope this helps. Good luck!
My dude your camparison is great but why did you pick 8-Bit classics of all things to test the noise, I think you should have picked a game such as KOF where you need very rapid movement to produce as much noise as possible. But it's still a good video, thank you.
My fighting skills are pathetic. That's why I used the classic arcade games for the demonstration - I'm more comfortable with platformers and shmups than executing shoryukens and throwing hadoukens.😁 I will try to include a fighting game (KOF or similar) next time I do a comparison. Thanks for the feedback - I appreciate it.
Maybe it's because I like keyboards with a nice thocky sound to them but I much prefer the non silent lever and buttons. In fact, I really hope someday I or someone else finds a way to make the lever and buttons sound even better, comparable to nice custom keyboards with say Ceramic buttons giving it a very deep sound.
I only played T7 and a tiny bit of T8 on my 8BitDo Arcade Stick - the controller felt good. If this is your 1st arcade stick, I think it's a great start. There are a couple of notes I give to people considering this controller. 1. The controller is 300mm wide and 200mm deep - I have large hands and it feels great to me, but some think it's a bit small. 2. The controller works great on PC and Switch (wired and wireless), but if you need a controller for PS or XBOX, you should consider other brands specifically designed for those consoles. I hope this helps. 🕹️🟣🟣🟣
8BitDo Arcade Stick is very mod friendly - you can install the standard Sanwa JLF or JLX lever, the Qanba Gravity Silent lever, and Sanwa OBSF buttons easily. Whichever controller you decide to get, play on it for at least 3-6 months before upgrading the components. The stock parts aren't terrible and you will be able to "feel" the difference only if you spend some time breaking in the stock lever and buttons.
Had a successful install! Thanks to your other video, I avoided the mismatch issue from the stock pin wiring. Fortunately, the qanba lever and the 8bitdo board I have, had labels for which command the wiring is for. My approach was reusing the 8 pin wiring connector of the 8bitdo, as an alternative to trimming the stock qanba 5 pin wiring connector. Fit like a charm.
@@mgu-ph I'm glad the videos helped. Reusing the 8-pin connector from the 8BitDo Arcade Stick takes a bit more effort, but it's a great way to do it - that ensures you are using the connectors exactly how they were designed to be connected. 👍
Hmm, it would probably make some differences if you also hade the qanba gravity silent buttons as well. But then again, sanwa also produces silent parts.
Im a sanwa user, but since my lever is broken, this product really caught my attention. It's worth changing to this or should i stick to sanwa? A mishima player btw
If you never used anything else other than Sanwa (JLF or JLX), you may want to try the Qanba JOV8S, but it may take you a bit to get used to it. The JOV8S has a significantly shorter throw than the JLF and the actuation distance is also reduced - some people "love" that about the Qanba joystick. There are two variants of the Qanba Gravity Silent joysticks - the JOV8S uses Omron box switches, while the JCV8 uses the Cherry MX switches. Many prefer the JOV8S variant for fighting games because the switch stems are larger which makes inputs herded to miss. I like both the JOV8S and the JCV8 because they're silent and their actuation distance is short (see the side-by-side comparison with the Sanwa JLF ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZUwaSFDjSN0.html). If you can get a Qanba Gravity Silent joystick on sale (they sell for less than the MSRP on AliExpress), the kit delivers a lot of value with 3 different springs, 3 restrictors, and a very nice ball top. 🕹🟣🟣🟣
@@UnknownGamer_metal Both are good joysticks, but I prefer the Qanba Gravity Silent (JOV8S) because it's quiet, has a shorter throw and actuation distance, and the kit comes with a lot of accessories so I can tinker with different springs and restrictors. I did a sound comparison between the Qanba Gravity Silent and the Sanwa JLF - have a look at ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZUwaSFDjSN0.html
The restrictor shape is OK - I use it and it feels good. I just wish Qanba didn't market it as "circle" when it clearly is not perfectly circular - they even show a perfect circle overlaid on top of it on their website. Until Qanba marketing team come up with a more appropriate name, I will continue to call this restrictor shape the "Cu-Qanba".
That's a great question. I'm not sure. I will have to take apart the JOV8S and see what fits. I have a few different quick release shafts I'll try. I'll get back to you on this soon.
Good news - all quick release shafts that are compatible with the Sanwa JLF will fit. I took apart both the Qanba JOV8S and the JCV8 and both shafts are virtually identical to the standard JLF shaft. I'll be installing the JLF version of the PhreakMods Link EX-Groove Quick Release shaft into my Qanba JOV8S.
@@DinodraxChronicles woohoo nice !! i do have PhreakMod QR that i got it from focusattack . I wonders if i can put capsule top on this im sure it fits too ;)
Thanks for the feedback - although music isn't the primary focus of the video, it's very important to have the right music to set the correct mod mood. 🎵🎶
I don't notice any accidental actuations on bounce-back. I am using the light (default 1x) spring that came with the kit, and my controller is slanted slightly toward me - with the joystick angled a bit, gravity may be helping prevent the bounce-back. The switches in this joystick have a stronger spring than the standard microswitches commonly found in Sanwa JLF, and with the shorter actuation distance, the JOV8S may be more prone to bounce-back actuations. If your controller is slanted away (on your lap) try giving it a bit of a tilt toward you or try one of the stronger shaft springs that come in the kit - the 2x or even the 1.5x spring may give it a bit more stiffness and prevent the accidental bounce-back actuations.
The long screwdriver is a 4" Phillips size 2 (PH2) and the short screwdriver is also Phillips size 2 (PH2) but only 1-5/8". Before you get a specific screwdriver, double check that your controller has Phillips screws - some versions of 8BitDo Arcade Sticks use torx screws on the case. Good luck with your mod.
It's a design Flaw bro I don't believe them. People who plays with circular gates like me like a perfectly rounded gate not a Qa-Cumber gate xD we ride the gate while we play. Also I'm no longer interested in this lever I've read a lot of comments saying that the diagonals are no good with this lever causing missed inputs and also that the lever bounces from side two side registering unwanted inputs like ➡️⬅️ I was alsabout to purchase the Qanba Gravity buttons but according to some players the buttons are not silent because the spring inside makes noise they even said that the Gravitys were in fact louder than regular Sanwas in a different way also the actuaron point of the gravity buttons isn't better than that of the Sanwas, sanwas Actuation Point is 1.2mm Qanba gravity buttons is like 1.4 or more which is dissapointing considering the fact that those are called the best buttons right now but they're not. Anyways thanks for the video bro keep it up. Don't worry Qanba is not the only one who makes mistakes, PDP just launched the new Victrix Pro KOF XV Limited Edition and it comes with a big flaw, the design of the inside prevents you from installing a Korean lever, there's a video on RU-vid about this flaw but it's in Spanish the guy shows the flaw and he is mad he says that he was ready to install his Korean lever from his Street Fighter limited edition victrix to his new kof edition victrix but he couldn't.
The cable I ended up using in my video is a "Generic control board 5-pin wiring harness" from CQB Arcade - but you can get it from ANY online shop that sells arcade controller parts. If you want to get it from Amazon, just look up "5Pin XH2.5mm Pitch Cable Plug Female to Female Adapter". This is the EASIEST option for the 8BitDo Arcade Stick if you don't want to rewire the cable that comes with the Qanba Gravity Silent joystick. I still recommend you cut off one of the retention clips on the "generic" cable, so your 5-pin connector fits nicely into the 8-pin connector on the circuit board - there is a segment in the video where I show how that's done (be extra careful when doing that). If you find something online but are not sure if it is the correct thing, let me know and I can have a look. Good luck with your upgrade.
@@DinodraxChronicles ah I see, so technically I can use the wire that it comes with but I have to remove the clips, just as how you showed in the video.
Technically yes - you can use the cable that comes with the joystick, but you will also have to REWIRE the pins on one side of that cable because out of the box it is not wired to suit the 8BitDo Arcade Stick (it's backwards). Getting a new "generic" cable allows you to plug it in either way without having to rewire - the "generic" cable has no "hook" on the joystick side, and you can invert it (plug it in backwards) to suit the 8BitDo Arcade Stick pin order. Either way, when you are plugging in a 5-pin cable connector into an 8-pin connector on the circuit board, you should remove one of the retention clips (just like I did in my video), so you don't force apart the plug on the 8BitDo Arcade Stick. I hope this helps you plan for the upgrade.
@@DinodraxChronicles Hey its me again. something i didnt realize was that I have the xbox version not the one you have. I was wondering if the same method applies with the female to female connector? I hope you could do a tutorial with the same stick and 8bitdo :/
Unfortunately, the XBOX variant of the 8BitDo Arcade Stick uses a different 8 pin connector on the circuit board and is not compatible with the Qanba cable or the "universal" cable I showed in my video. I currently don't have the XBOX variant, so I can't make a video tutorial. Sorry. If I were in your situation, I would probably cut off the cables from the stock joystick, cut off the circuit board plug from the Qanba cable, and then splice the two cables together to make a compatible wiring harness - this is the easiest and quickest option. All you have to do is expose a bit of wire on either end, twist them together, and put a bit of electrical tape over each splice. You need to match each direction - all directions are labelled on the joystick and on the circuit board next to the plug. And because there are 4 ground connections on the circuit board, and only one ground on the Qanba joystick (labelled GND), you only have to splice one ground wire (doesn't matter which) - the remaining 3 ground wires can be cut off or taped shut with a bit of electrical tape (to prevent them making contact with anything inside the case). I hope this quick write up helps you. Good luck.
You're absolutely correct - the noise produced by an arcade stick when playing fighting games is on an entirely different level. The primary reason I would use a silent lever for fighting games is to reduce the number of audible clues your opponent sitting next to you may be listening for - each stick motion produces a distinct microswitch "sound signature" which may be picked up, recognised, and then countered/blocked/avoided by your opponent.
The Circular gate seems to not be completely round (360) what the F is with that gate? 🤦♂️ I've seen pictures of these gate and it looks the same. It should be completely circular. Do you like this lever? I i don't want to waste my money I like to use circular gate but this lever gate seems defective.
Holy bent bananas Batman - you are correct. That thing is not a perfect circle. Eagle eyes! I measured and inspected the circular gate that came with the JOV8S kit, and it seems it has a bit of a deviation in a couple of spots. It's visible but I am not sure if I would be able to feel it once installed - I'll have to test it out. Usually, the actuator shouldn't "ride" the restrictor gate, but that doesn't mean Qanba should be making their circular gates egg-shaped. I'll get in touch with Qanba and see what they say about this. I do like the lever. It has a short throw, short actuation distance, small dead zone, and it is very quiet - there is no constant clickclickclickclick when I play shmups. Plus, it comes with a nice ball top.
@@DinodraxChronicles I am using a Otto V5 with a circular restrictor and I like to ride the gate when I'm gon to DP from crouch position (↙️ - ⬇️↘️➡️↘️⬇️↘️) having an eggshaped restrictor gate will affect me.
@@DinodraxChronicles I've seen many videos of this lever and all look the same the gate is not circular I even found out a review on Ali Express of a guy complaining about the same issue he even aploaded a picture of the restrictor gate and it is not round 360
I got a response from Qanba and I did some measuring and investigation about the Gravity V8 "circle" restrictor. Have a look at the video I just posted - it's a quick summary. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8Y4sbh5uSW8.html
Nice. I have been meaning to try the LS-56-01 mainly because of the "stiff" spring and the short throw/actuation distance. Thanks for the reminder - I will have to pick up one soon.
Perfect video! I need to pick up the silent stick. Which tension spring are you using on it? I'd love to see a spring comparison video on the silent joystick next!
Great suggestion! I'm using the lowest tension spring that came in the kit and it feels a bit tighter than the default spring that ships with the Sanwa JLF. The kit also comes with a "1.5 times elasticity" and a "2 times elasticity" springs - I haven't tried those yet.
@@DinodraxChronicles I've always been a fan of very stiff or high tension sticks. I'm currently using a Seimitsu LS-55 and love how it springs back into place! You definitely don't get that from a Sanwa JLF.
The Qanba Gravity Silent joystick with Omron grey switches (JOV8 and JOV8S models) feels different than Sanwa JLF or other similar joysticks - it has a shorter throw and actuation distance plus it's super quiet. Out of the box it also feels a bit stiffer than Sanwa JLF. I think it would be a good upgrade, but it may take you a bit to get used to it. If you can get it from AliEx for a discount, I think it's worth trying it. Have a look at the video I just posted that compares the Sanwa JLF and the Qanba Gravity Silent joystick - it touches on a few things I mentioned above. Good luck with the upgrade.
I think it's worth it - especially if you can get it from AliEx for a discount. In my video I showed the JOV8S variant that has Omron grey switches, but there is also the JCV8 model that uses Cherry MX Speed Silver switches. Good luck with your mod.
There are pads right next to the connector that can be soldered for connecting joysticks. It would probably be more secure that way instead of using cut-up connectors.
Thanks for the suggestion. I did consider soldering to the "spare" pads, but I chose to use the "5-pin to 8-pin connector hack" because it's quick, allows swapping between different joysticks easily, and it's a low risk maneuvre (no heat required). I found that with only one retention clip cut off on the harness 5-pin connector, the remaining clip provides enough grip to ensure the connection is secure enough.
