On USA cars, it is required equipment to reclaim and capture gasoline fumes from the fuel tank. Charcoal canister gathers vapors which are burned when the engine is running.
Be sure you get a firm grasp on the center. Since I use two hands to engage each latch, I steer with my knees for a few seconds as I latch the top. Don’t forget, you cannot put the top back down at those speeds! You’re committed to raising it, or slow down below 40mph to lower it.
I make and sell adjustable straps to fix the “ears”. However I think they add unnecessary folds and stress to the top. So I don’t use them myself. For a car show I may tuck the ears in by hand.
This particular top is very tight. Normally, none of these steps are necessary. You just unlatch the top and throw it back (open). However, if the top is cold, or new, or stiff - then this may be the only way to lower it safely.
i trying to readapt a 2003 mr2 SMT, i have replaced the clutch and need to readapt the kiss points, gearbox works fine, but the clutch is too fierce at the moment. i have a recent copy of tech stream and have found my way to a page within that appears to allow the data to be altered, it states a range, but i don't have a data source. is there a procedure that will guide me through a full re-adaption,or is there a data source that i could assess to get the clearance data?
My sierra just came in, it has the plastic window frame. Thanks for the video, I hope I made the right decision but we will know after the install tomorrow morning.
@@paulshibbs Hey Paul, the install went flawless and was alot *less* painful thanks to your guides provided. My one issue seems to be that the 4 bow is quite close to the 3 bow, (maybe 3 inches apart. The 4 bow should be closer to the window looking at pics online. Have you seen this issue with these tops?
@@zadekharbat . I have seen bow #4 resting too far forward. I think it’s due to the nylon strap that goes diagonally to the rear and attaches to the curved bracket. Check routing of the strap and make sure it’s attached correctly. It terminates at a loose clip that is bolted to the curved bracket. Maybe the clip inside down?
@@zadekharbat. I have seen bow #4 resting too far forward. I think it’s due to the nylon strap that goes diagonally to the rear and attaches to the curved bracket. Check routing of the strap and make sure it’s attached correctly. It terminates at a loose clip that is bolted to the curved bracket. Maybe the clip inside down?
@paulshibbs looks like I installed the bracket correct? But the strap might be stretched after the top sat open in the sun for 10 years. I can adjust it back while opening but it leaves weird ripples in the top, i actually commented on a facebook post with the ripples.
Thank you so much for posting on the the Toyotas Mr2 SMT transmission. There is very little info out there. Please make more guides on this transmission!
Thanks Paul, great detailed video. I used 1 litre of Comma DOT4 and flushed mine through 3 times (using door and gears). One point; mine is a UK 2002 PFL and doesn't have the vacuum hose's on the airbox.
With such a long run time, something is wrong. Perhaps a leaky check valve in the HPU pump body. You could watch techstream “data list” to verify that pressure is actually building slowly, and not just a bad pressure sensor.
Paul, HPU runs more than 30 sec (nearly a minute) now. But I cannot find any leaks. Is the HPU needs rebuilding or the GSU? Or should I rebuild both? Thanks.
Hi, thanks for the video uploads. I have a crazy one here in NZ. Once you have turned the car OFF and removed the key how long does it take for your SMT ecu to stop maintaining the pressure in the system? Mine doesnt stop and is still cycling the HPU.
Normally pressure bleeds down after 4-5 hours or so. If the pump is running, something else is wrong. Is the interior light staying lit? Wondering if the door switch isn’t working? Otherwise, I’ve seen a failure where the clutch cycles and then the pump runs, and continues until the battery dies. Usually due to a bad clutch position sensor, where the system got stuck doing a clutch position confirmation. And is stuck on the first step, trying over and over.
@@paulshibbs Hi Paul Thanks for the reponce. I did check the interior lights and the light on the instrument panel, they say the door is shut. I am confident the door switch is working ok. I have tested all the posision sensors and they seem to sweep clean on a scope. I hace since opened the GSA and found the orings on the spool valves seem way to big for the grooves. I wonder if the system was maybe bypassing fluid?
@@TechnicalAutoNZ Those orings should be snug. Usually that is a sign that somebody has poured some kind of hydraulic oil or petroleum based fluid into the system. I can send you new orings for all the solenoid spool valves. They are cheap. I worry that wrong fluid will also destroy the accumulator diaphragm, plus all the lip seals in the system. Usually the o rings on the hose quick connect fittings will also be swollen. Email me Cyclehead21 at g male.
Off topic I know, but I followed the SMT relearn procedure as per your video - I was expecting to hear some activity from the actuators, and maybe some pressure readings in the Techstream test tab, but nothing. I think in your video you mentioned some noises from the SMT, can you confirm that ? Thanks
Hi Paul, I have an 02 Spyder that has sat for 5 years in a garage. SMT pump runs constantly and stays in N with the SMT dash light on. I bought Toyota SMT fluid because mine reservoir was low. Filled it with SMT Toyota fluid and pump still keeps running but I notice bubbles in my reservoir when pump is running and still stays in N. Any help please.
nice pedals! do you ever drive barefoot? would be great to see a longer pedal cam from this angle too! was just a bit hard to see the pedals in dark socks
I hate looking at people's weird shaped toe nails and hairy feet. I'm sticking with socks! The concept is - add an extension to the gas pedal that is even with the brake pedal (when depressed). Then you can simply wiggle your toes or rock your foot to the right to blip the throttle. None of the silly ankle-twisting gymnastics that the professionals do.
@@nicolasdominguez3638. Details here. Don’t miss photos at the bottom of the link. docs.google.com/document/d/1LsZb5LT3DzqxpsquJV2re0gkTZRPENOvQM2GNwH-8W8/edit
Yessir. That’s why I made the video. I believe the nice laser equipment can be more precise, and it’s easier to do the job with professional equipment. However the price to pay in time, money, deception and sloppy and negligent work outweighs the benefits…for me. You can make your own decision.
Yes glass windows With defroster wires. I have never seen a replacement spyder top that did not have glass window. Maybe the new $300 top made in China has plastic window?
Best explanation out there.. I'm still struggling to remove the fender without drilling those rivers... Will try to undo more nuts on the rubber moulding on top...
Is the pressure plate lighter that the stock one? I've done the quick sift mod and put a fidanza aluminum flywheel on, but it doesn't seem to shift as fast as yours.
I have a slightly heavier pressure plate than stock. I also wonder if the later TCU boxes maybe shift a little faster? I changed to 6 speed transmission and “73” ECU with one of the later part number TCUs.
They are very pricy! I don’t rebuild them for others. Too much hassle with returns and complaints. However I sell seals to rebuild them. And publish all kinds of Rosie information for free. @Thomas Levine has been rebuilding them for less than monkeywrenchracing. You can find him on Facebook. Alternatively. look over the repair instructions here: docs.google.com/document/d/1SOhlqEtVWt5-MFPdrOGkNnpOn9-fyGCZTJISiTKCkVM/edit
Hi mate, you wouldn't know what the pressure sensor feeds back to the ecu? The 3 wires, I know 1 has ~5volts and 1 seems to show ~2 volts, 1 earth? Cheers
@@feral4mr2 At max pressure, I usually see about 2.8v on the center pin. More details here… docs.google.com/document/d/1-w24jghkWvyj-cO4DNMoXuv2EE88Lmbj_RQ1TibuhnI/edit
Thanks for showing this. I'm not having any issues yet but I'm sure I will at some point. 82,000 miles on the clock for the old MRS SMT. So far going strong. Love this little car.
Thanks for the tips. My MR2 had stopped shifting. With your video, I was able to find the fluid reservoir. It was very low on fluid. I was able to suck out most of the old fluid. I've replaced it with new, and my MR2 is back on the road. A simple enough fix, that probably saved me several hundred dollars' worth of unnecessary expense.
Any time you disturb the position sensors, or remove the GSA you’ll need to perform a relearn. The system teaches itself where the actuators are. It needs to know exactly where each actuator is, so it can control gear shifts and modulate the clutch position.
