RiverTables.es specialises in finished live edge slab furniture. All of our furniture is made with single slabs, sourced from sustainable forests all over Europe. All the wood we use is fully stabilised, air dried for at least two years and then kiln dried.
HDPE plastic is the perfect material for non-stick molds used for resin projects. Its non adhesive quality does away with the need to use any kind of release spray or duct tape. Furthermore, the molds are completely reusable. You can re-use the HDPE Molds, potentially, an infinite number of times.
Our Kiln Dried, Heat Sterilised Live Edge Olive wood has been sourced from sustainable forests in Andalucía, Spain. The trees, having come to an end of their natural life, are slowly kiln dried to a humidity of +/-9% to ensure stability and longevity of the piece. We are able to sand finish individual pieces to your requirements. Combined with epoxy resin, the olive wood is ideal for epoxy resin projects.
Very nice work! I wonder why you have chanched the brand of epoxy. I search for the ECOpoxy, far expensive than Dipoxy that you used to work in another project. Is worth the price? Do you mill yourself the olive slabs that you sell in you website? Will be available larger slabs in future? Keep doing this nice project 💪
Hi, I'm writing to you from Italy. I wanted to compliment you on the system. I wanted to ask you, is it possible to know or have the links to the articles you used? thank you
I pressed the like button but I always find it really hard, when you are a woodworker and know nothing about steel parts, to understand all the technical descriptions and just what they are talking about. Looks like a nice system though. Too bad there is no dust shroud or even an attempt at attaching a vacuum. I'd be running this inside my shop and I'd be coughing my lungs into a bloody mess in no time
Hi! Such a great video. Would it be possible to pick up a big mold this summer in Spain? (I don't know where exactly you are based). Also, do you give courses? :)
Nice build. Modular and rigid. Only suggestion to use a plunge router so you have more clearance and some linear dust brushes to make dust collection a bit easier.
Over time and if the resin/wood top is moved into different climatic and humidity conditions does the wood have movement like it normally does, what happens to the resin and wood bond, do they both hold and move together. Thank you
Hi, Once the wood and the resin are sealed then there will be no further movement of the wood or the resin. Obviously the wood would need to be kiln dried prior to creating the piece.
What is the thickness of the plate where you mount the router, looking to create something similar and on the fence about what thickness of aluminum will be strong enough and not bend with time.
What is the purpose of the two 500mm sections that go between the sled and the main track? Specifically, the two pieces that you mount the sliders to as pictured at 5:42. Why not just mount the nylon sliders to to two 400mm 4040 pieces of the router sled and slide the sled up and down the main track directly vs. mounting the sled to an intermediate track that then rides up and down the main track? Was it to get a little more vertical clearance between the router and the surface?
Hi Timothy, Yes, that is exactly what they´re for. The 80 x 40 x 2440 (side) lengths can be fixed face down or on their sides (to the MDF,) which will increase the height of the sled and the 500mm sections can further add height if needed. The configuation all depends on the thickness of the wood you´re planing. Hope that helps.
Hi i have just been watching you're video on the router sled. I built one from steel before which was horrendously awkward and had to be left set up so i am going to give you're idea a go. Just noticed in the video you said about festool making one with a quick release mounting plate but obviously they are expensive. I have the trend t11 which is an excellent router and they do a quick release plate that goes with there router table which im sure you can buy separately and all pretty reasonable on price.
This is how i should have done my router surfacing setup. I used the 20mm round rails. Works fine on the outside but going across the 45" span on the gantry i get .04" dip with just the weight of the router. Not sure what i want to try next rather than dumping alot more money in this project
Hey there, how exactly did you mount the srb20 linear rails to the 4040 extrusion. Is it simply drilled and screwed on, if so what screws are you using?
FWIW, to make the HDPE molds last longer, store them in the dark (aka no sulight, no fluorescent light, etc..). Covering the outsides with material or coatings that block UV is also helpful. The additives that protect the HDPE from UV are sacrificial and get consumed. It will take a while for the UV protective additives to be used up, but I am guessing you want the molds to last as long as possible.
Sorry to ask, i need to make a very small mold for my dear wife hobby and i live in Indonesia, may i ask kindly what blade are you using? I only have a 60 teeth table saw blade, would that be sufficient? Thank you in advance 🙏
When you talk about staining the wood at 14:04, isn't the wood covered in epoxy at that point? How are you staining the wood after the epoxy pour over it?
Hi, do you sell the prints and parts list to build this, and possibly the whole system? I think you came up with a great design. I'm willing to pay for the prints and parts list. Please get back to me.
Hello Richard, I dont unfortunately, however all the part numbers are on the video. I bought the parts from www.aluminium-profile.co.uk/. They are very helpful.
