We are a Basement Waterproofing, Foundation Repair, Concrete Leveling, and Basement Window installation contractor. But at our root, we are educators. We like to help people to truly understand the issues they are dealing with and how to fix them.
With all of our videos, our goal is to inform, educate, and even entertain a little bit. There is no reason we cannot learn and have fun at the same time. None of this is heart surgery, and the principals are simple at heart.
Weather you are looking to DIY a project and get tips, or be sure that the contractor you are about to hire does the right thing, we are here to help. Feel free to drop questions in the comments, we will answer all of them!
We hope you enjoy your time here, and remember, Not Everything's Better When Wet!
Great question! If the interior wall you are referring to is the wall between the lower level of your basement and the higher split level, then it is possible for that to bow. It is uncommon, to be clear, because the forces are not as strong under the raised portion of your home. We'd love to come take a look at it if you're in the Chicagoland area. If not, maybe we can direct you towards a good company!
@Therealsealllc thanks so much! It's my parents' home in Northeast Ohio (Akron/Canton/Cleveland area). It's a load-bearing interior wall on the ground floor with sudden bowing of at least a few inches, very concerning. If there's a company you know and respect in their area, I'll pass that along to them.
Is this superior to the epoxy injection method? Seems like in an environment where there's frequent heat/cold contraction that tar stuff isn't going to prevent movement only seal things. The injected epoxy has a tensile strength of 9000psi I believe.
Great question! Both of them come with a Lifetime Warranty. That is because both methods work. The elastomeric (stretchy) properties of the tar allows it to flex during the heat/cold cycles, allowing the seal to stay in place. This method stops water from ever entering the crack. The epoxy method fills the crack with epoxy, eliminating the pathway for water to enter through the crack. Mainly, people choose between the two based on access. If there is a lot of stuff in the way on the inside, an exterior repair makes more sense. But as the epoxy is less expensive and carries the same warranty, that is the standard method for repairing cracks when you have the access from the inside. Hope this helps!
It depends on the size of the area being leveled. Most projects are completed in under $1,500. If your whole driveway, patio, and sidewalk need lifting, that's another story and will need to be measured and quoted for the extra work.
We have a concrete reinforcement wall That's falling but we do not have the money to pay thousands of dollars to fix it we are just looking for a stabilizer do you think it's possible to drill holes into the stable wall and put concrete anchors with a cable and turnbuckles or to hold it from falling
Hi Lance! It may be possible, but it's hard to tell without knowing/seeing the situation. Deadman anchors do help to keep the wall from falling, but they need to be installed properly and with enough support for that wall.
Typically pipes don't run very far underneath the ground. We call JULIE to locate any lines, and they are found while we do our work, as we must start at the bottom of the foundation. The main ones to worry about are sewer lines (which run right under the foundation or through it and easily identified and avoided), gas lines (usually not too far below the ground, so located and avoided), electrical (usually above ground, but below ground is located and avoided), and water lines (3' at least beneath the ground, but easily identified from location tags and where it comes in the home on the interior).
@@Therealsealllc Thanks...my question was less about concern for pipes underground (although that IS a factor to keep in mind) but rather when the house is releveled, do pipes running from the house need to be disconnected so that they do not break? For example, a pipe from the sewage in the house that then connects to a pipe running into the main sewage line that may move a bit during releveling.
@@sullyprudhomme Great question! Yes, depending on the area of lift and amount of lift, it may be necessary to disconnect the sewer line before lifting. Many times, it will have sunk down with the foundation, however, and lifts back up correctly. At that point, all you need to do is re-seal/connect the pipe on the outside.
Window Well Drains are typically under 1k, but the cost will vary a bit depending on where that drain is discharging. If there is a long run through drywall and studs to get around to a sump pit, that work will add to the cost.
The main risk is the drill bit hitting and going through the pipe. A skilled technician will know to stop the drilling once the concrete has been passed, and the risk there is minimized.
@@Therealsealllc Ok, thanks. Is polyjacking better than mudjacking in terms of risk to pipes? I have a hard time thinking about how the forces involved could affect a pipe which may or may not be exposed in part or full.
@@TimothyOBrien6 Both services have risk of filling pipes, as they are filling voids and any break in a pipe exposes a large space. Solid pipes have little chance of being damaged with either service.
Currently repairing a crack in foundation previous owner botched / failed back in 2016. It’s a stress crack going from corner of window, diagonally to the footing. Crack leaks slowly into our basement. Currently have it excavated to the footing, and clean. About a 3-4 ft long crack 1/4” at most in places. A foundation guy has told me the best thing to do is use water proof hydraulic cement and tar. Why would I not use epoxy injection + tar covering on exterior. Would there be a reason hydraulic cement would be better than epoxy on exterior crack repair? PLEASE HELP STUCK IN LIMBO😂
Hi @elibrown7531! Epoxy injection is best done from the inside. With a finished basement, you can end up injecting epoxy into your home, which is not ideal. So while epoxy injection is the best solution from the interior, from the exterior the best solution is to clean the wall, use hydraulic cement over the crack, and then an elastomeric tar over that. A protective barrier like a plastic sheeting or a foam board is ideal as well to prevent the tar from being scraped off during back fill and compression of the dirt.
Those can be done as well. It all depends on the size of the structure that is being supported. The same spacing applies, unless the structure is 3 stories and taller, in which case the piers would need to be spaced closer to 3' apart.
Which elastomeric tar do you recommend from form local big box store like Menards, Lowe’s and homedepot. Can I use 10mil plastic sheeting to protect the tar? Thank for your help! This is rhetorical best waterproofing video that I’ve found!
Hi Gonzo, thanks so much! The tar we use comes from a commercial supplier. There are numerous brands available in the big box stores. As long as it is a good product, the biggest thing to worry about is prepping the foundation properly. Be sure to dig to and clean off the footing. Scrape the whole area to get any dirt/dust/debris off the wall. Brush it clean. Then apply the hydraulic cement, seal with tar, and put the plastic sheeting over it. 10 mil can work, but you need to be careful because that thin of a membrane can tear with rocks and dirt as you tamp the dirt back into the hole. I'd recommend a bit thicker, at least 14 mil or a foam insulation board.
There are many ways to waterproof structures. We don't torch bitumen membranes, so wouldn't be the best people to ask about that process. Over our tar seal, we typically lay an thread-reinforced poly sheeting. We also will use insulation board. The main purpose is to protect the tar while backfilling.
The color of the tar matters little. What you need is an elastomeric (still a bit stretchy when dried) tar. Prepping the area properly is the most important step. So be sure to clean off the wall with a wire brush well and brush any dust/debris off and allow to dry before applying the tar.
Hi there sir, I live in Long Island New York near the water, but we rarely get any floods here; but also because we are so low, the foundation is mostly wet. I'm brought 2 foundation companies to check out my crawl space And one of the companies told me to eliminate all access windows and leave only 1 and make the crawl space air tight, and put a moist barrier on the ground, foam spray on the walls and installation on the ceiling. The other company told me to leave all 3 windows and put automatic ventilation windows with a commercial dehumidifier and a sub pump, and he also told me to put the same floor barrier with foam on the walls, but he told me I don't need Insulation on the ceiling. Which one should I do? Also the first company told me that I should replace all brick support columns underneath with metal adjustable rods and the other company said to leave the support as it is. They are so opposite and I don't know what to do, and they are both experts with lots of years of experience with high reviews. What would you recommend sir?
Hi There @Figs4Life! While I do not know your specific situation, as I have not seen it, I can offer some recommendations to help you make your decision. When it comes to waterproofing, insulation on the ceiling of your crawl space will not do very much. What it will do, though, is help keep the floors from being cold all the time. Cold crawl space air cools the 1st story floors, and the insulation will help prevent that. So if you have cold floors and want that fixed, ceiling insulation is the way to go. If not, don't worry about it. The windows can stay, but there isn't much use for them other than as an egress window. If they are too small to be egress windows, then you don't have much use for them in the crawl space. Extra windows means lower insulation value, which means higher utility bills. Is the house settling? Sloping floors in the home? The brick columns are an older construction method for homes, but if they're not moving, they don't need to be replaced. If they are moving, then it's time to consider replacement. As for the reviews of the company, be sure you read the reviews. Especially any complaints on the BBB and how they were handled by the company. That's the easiest way to see the customer service when things don't go perfectly. I hope this helps! Send me any more questions you may have!
@@Therealsealllc I appreciate your response, thank you. I have one more question Do I need a dehumidifier? One company said I don't need it the other company said I need it and a pump. The First company that said I don't need a dehumidifier nor a pump gave me an estimate of $21000 while the other company that said I need it including a pump gave me a quote of $17 500 How come the second company is cheaper ? Am I being ripped off? Micro space is about a 1000 square feet, They have to remove old insulation on the ceiling, level some areas in the crawl space, and take out some debris. The crow space height ranges from 3-5 feet
@@Figs4Life Different companies surely charge different amounts. You do get different levels of service, warranties, etc. But there are most certainly times (especially in the busy season) that you will see some companies drastically raise prices to see what they can get. Best way to choose the right company is to compare (and read) the reviews across Yelp, BBB (especially to how they respond to the complaints), and Angies. Google reviews are too easy to fake, so I would not use those as a deciding factor. A dehumidifier is always a good idea, but not always necessary. Thinking of the long term health of the area, it would be best to get a dehumidifier. But again, I haven't seen your specific situation, so that is just general good advice. Does that all make sense?
What type of screws did you use to secure that metal enclosure to the concrete block? Did you have to use anchors after drilling the holes? We just removed an old rusted one and put the new one in today. I want to secure it to the block. I found the Sika Flex online at Home Depot. Where did you get that flat piece to cover the inside of the well (before putting the plastic cover over it)? Thanks
Hi John! Concrete lag anchors will work to secure your window well to the masonry wall. Just be sure to drill your holes in the mortar joints, as those blocks are hollow and won't hold the bolt. The Sika Flex you can use to seal between the well and the wall. Metal or hardware supply stores can get you a piece of metal for the cover.
Yes, but it depends on the tombstone. If it is a small traditional one, manually reinstalling the tombstone may be the best option. If the tombstone is larger, Polyjacking could help even it out and stabilize it.
You would need to get a sump pit installed. Alternatively, you could do it all outside and run it to a low spot in the yard. The problem with this is that the well depth is already so low, and with pitch of the pipe, you'll be digging a very deep trench.
Is a interior drain tile needed if I only get seepage in a few areas of my basement? I get water coming through the grains of my last cinder block closest to floor. The other side is the footing coming in, Is the drain tile worth the money ?
Yes, it is definitely worth it and you should get a full perimeter system. With cinder block, it's only a matter of time before it leaks in other areas as well. A reputable company should install an Interior Drain Tile System with a Lifetime Warranty as well, alleviating any future concerns.
@@Therealsealllc Thanks for the quick response!! Would it be okay to do half now and half later? Also will it reduce pressure under the basement floor. I worry it will weaken my walls and have radon
@@keithschneider4483 You can do half now and half later, just be sure you pitch the Drain Tile correctly remember it won't stop water from coming through cracks in the floor until it's the full perimeter system.
Depending on your situation, that may be the best route. We pride ourselves on being transparent and up front about all costs and options so the homeowner can make an informed decision, without someone holding a pen in front of their nose.
what if you have a poured concrete basement wall that is bowing outward, but not the whole wall only the top of it? There is 3" difference from the top of my basement wall to the bottom of it. It is bowing outward, causing the slate siding to actually bend. I see you are in the Chicago area, do you have any recommendations for the St. Louis Mo area?
Hi @taniat3412! So at 3" you are still able to support the wall with Carbon Fiber. However, if it is not addressed immediately and gets beyond 3", you will need to push the wall back. I recommend getting a qualified contractor out there asap to address the issue. We unfortunately do not have any recommendations in the STL area. I would recommend you going to Yelp, Angie's, BBB, and Google, read the reviews, and choose the most consistently reputable and responsive company.
@@Therealsealllc Thank you. I got a quote for a company that wants to install 7 steel piers on the back and left side. total cost 12,500 does that seem reasonable? the length of that section to be repaired is 12' of wall 8' high.
@@taniat3412 That seems like a lot of piers for a 12' section. But you may need to stabilize further than the 3" side that is tipping outward. As far as the price, that's a good price for steel piers. Be sure you get at least 2 other quotes so you have a good idea of the exact fix you need and get a decent company.
@@Therealsealllc Thank you and I did get a guy to come out, it isn't even my basement wall, my sill is completely rotted and all the wood behind my siding is pushing my siding outward making it look like my wall did it. After I fix all this mess I am still going to monitor my wall with measuring just to be sure. Thank you again
Hi @darrianlittle2272! We highly recommend against you tightening the plates yourself. Some companies make plans for customers to tighten their own plates and pull the wall back themselves, but it does not work. Most of the time, the customer overtightens the bolts, breaking the wall or damaging the supports. To properly push back a foundation wall, you must dig a trench outside next to the wall to relieve the pressure and allow space for the wall to move. Otherwise, you're trying to pull the wall against compressed dirt, which is not going to move.
We used lifting cylinders off of Helical Piers to lift the foundation at the same time. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RaCdqSzKiyQ.htmlsi=6XPjSfc1tfJR6yY1
What if our house does not have drain tile? There is a pit and sump pump but it is bone dry. The home is 17 years old and sump pump has never been replaced. We live in the Red River Valley of North Dakota where it regularly floods.. never had standing water in the basement.. so wondering where it is all going??
Hi @kristinak2211 great questions! There are some areas in the country that have silty soils that allow water to pass right through them. We have an area around us in Evanston, IL that has such silty soil in places that sump pumps never go off, even in the heaviest of rains. The good news is that you are in such a place that you don't need to worry as much about flooding in your basement. The bad news is that one day it still may flood the basement, so I always advise to be careful what you put down there if you don't have a Drain Tile. That said, I would definitely recommend replacing your sump pump. When the time comes for it to be used, you want it fresh and reliable.
Hello! If water is leaking under the footing, you will need a Drain Tile System in order to solve that. Check it out here! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1fqMyR859vY.htmlsi=8Uti6ngJ0LRCN5h-
Hello! You are correct, epoxies do not stick to a wet wall. In the case of a leaking crack, we will build a Hydraulic Cement Surface Patch with diverting tubes that moves the water and creates a dry surface for our epoxy to bond to. From there, we can inject the crack and stop the leak!
Love the video. I've done my best to DIY replicate what you done here. One issue I have though, is a draft through the pipe. Would a P-trap be wise for this application? Other solutions? Im in the upper peninsula and winter can be very cold. Thanks!
Hello! So there shouldn't be any draft, and I do not suggest a P-Trap. The pipe should have been sealed around it where it went through the hole to prevent any draft. Also, if it drops into the sump pit, an air-tight lid will stop any cold air from affecting your basement. If it drops into the Drain Tile, you should be able to seal around it where it enters the concrete as well.
Oh yeah, was an old video and learned my lesson there. Nowadays we prevent that by drilling from the outside and inside and meeting in the middle. For that, I ended up patching with hydraulic cement.
@@Therealsealllc I love an honest answer. Many people would cover comment that reply. Good for you! That is what I thought would have been the cause. I am closing in on doing my crawl space as after 36 years in a hard rain we draw water. Doing home work now. Too old to do it myself but need to know the facts. Sure I have avoided a huge mistake by watching videos like yours. Not sure how to attach dimple board when doing a crawl.Shame you are not in my Va. area.🦇
@@dustbat We're big fans of growing, and that means learning from our mistakes. For the dimple board attachment, you can secure to the wall via pins into the concrete, or just leave it with the concrete over it like in our videos. If you encapsulate the crawl space, you don't need to secure it at all, as the encapsulation will be covering it up. Best way to find a good company around you is to go to review sites like Yelp, Angie's, BBB and read and compare the reviews to find the company that suits you best. Always feel free to reach out with any questions!
@@Therealsealllc I think I am getting there. Thanks for all this help. One more thing. Crawl space. No concrete. Now I would have a trench below the footer for drain pipes. Also I am way below our dirt floor level. So if I stopped here you would have a trench open where you could step off. So, do I have the whole thing filled in with rock.? I am sure we do not put dirt back.🦇
@@dustbat first thing is to not go beneath the footer. If your dirt level is that low already, I suggest putting gravel in there to get over the footer level. Then you can install your Drain Tile at footer level, with a 1/8" per foot slope, and then encapsulate the crawl space.
What do you suggest to prevent the crack from getting bigger? Especially, in a scenario where the crack is through the foundation wall from the top to the bottom footing.
Most all cracks are through the entire foundation wall top to the bottom of the footing. While injecting cracks or sealing them from the outside will waterproof them, if a crack is actively getting bigger, it means there is an underlying structural issue. If the wall is moving inwards, it will require Carbon Fiber or Wall Plates to repair. if the wall is settling downward, it will require Push or Helical Piers to stop that movement. You can reinforce cracks with carbon fiber stitching, but that will not hold the entire wall. Check out our Carbon Fiber, Wall Pushback, and Piering Videos for more info!
Yes, you can still use epoxy in those situations. If the crack is actively leaking, it may be best to switch to polyurethane until you get past the leak, as it does react with water. If it is leaking too bad, it is best to come back another day to complete the repair.
Hello! If you are able to get the crack from the inside, there is no need for repair on the outside. However, if there are finishings/chimneys/furnaces/etc in the way of the crack that prevents you from doing a proper interior repair, we would then recommend an exterior solution.
my basement has narrow channels and the rocks atop the pipes leading to the pump are exposed, meaning, never covered w concrete. Is this normal? Thanks.
Hi Roy! No, it is not normal. A finished system should have concrete over it from the interior. Unless you are in a crawl space where there is no concrete floor at all. In that case, we would recommend you encapsulate the crawl space.
Thank you for the reply. What I am wondering is, what is the point of these rock channels? They added it when they installed the French drain, which is working normally via the larger, corrugated pipes., which are covered over w concrete. Should I cover these rocks w concrete? Thank you again@@Therealsealllc
@@Roy-xe9is Do you have a picture you can send so I can see exactly what you are talking about? You can send them to Office@TheRealSeal.com and put Attention Austin via RU-vid and they will pass it my way.
we had an interior french drain installed and still have water coming in..we have two sub pumps too. it's seeping int through the where the wall meets the floor. Not sure what to do next.
Hi Stephanie! Sounds like you an evaluation to see where the water is coming in. If it's seeping where the wall meets the floor, it means the Drain Tile you had installed was not installed correctly. If you got it done by a reputable company, it should have come with a warranty. Call that company and have them come out and fix it. If you had a handyman do it, call a reputable waterproofing company and have them come re-do it correctly.
