ALERT! I just saw someone ordered a Seal Kit from Amazon. It is sold as SeaSierra, out of Taiwan. This is not Sierra that we're all used to. Please be sure what you order. This may be a fine seal kit, just realize what you're ordering.
Hi! Is this the method I would use to flush out the gear case for metal particles? My lower end I believe has a broke Gear so I will be swapping it out with a new lower unit. Although when I check the inspection port for the top portion it still has metal flakes on the gears but the gears themselves look good! I just don’t want to put a new lower unit on and then Run into a new issue because of the metal in the gear case.
THAT is a good question. I don't believe flushing like I did for contamination would be adequate. I suspect there are metal particles in the bearings, etc. I'd consult with an expert on that one. And research yourself. Installing a new lower unit ($$$$) I'd want to be sure the top end was good to go. Regardless, good luck. Thanks!
Just replaced a raw water pump and the new one wobbles quite a bit. Seems to still function well. Any idea how to fix or if a wobbling brand new pump should be a concern?
My new one has a slight wobble. Is yours worse than mine in the video (6:20)? I don't remember if the old one wobbled or not, it was an aftermarket too. I've read comments new OEM's can have a slight wobble as well. Myself, I'm no longer concerned with my slight wobble and trying to put it out of my memory.
I have a 5.7 GSI and recently replaced the pump. I would like to install a freshwater flush system before the pump but I'm not sure which hose is the intake. Upper or lower? The boat is on a lift but putting muffs on the outdrive would be a massive pain so I want to try this route. Any clue?
Hey Jon, I keep my boat on a lift as well. What I do is lift the drive while still in the water, put muffs on (I have a swim platform), turn on the hose and make sure there is a good seal. Then lower the drive and flush for 10 minutes or so while it's up to temp. I was going to put one of the volvo flush connections on the hose as well. It would work the same, you can't rev it up as it would then pull in sea water. Once the motor is shut off, this intake would mix with sea water but before the pump. I couldn't find the correct fitting to put in the intake hose. Plus it would be another point of failure with the clamps and the plastic connector. Your mileage may vary. Thx!!
How is it holding up? The seal is leaking on mine and a new one is $456.00. The dealer says they can’t get a seal, only impellers and o-rings and I was considering this one.
Sorry for the late response Terry, Mine is holding up fine but I've only put about 20 hrs on it since the install. I debated myself on OEM vs aftermarket but took the chance. If this one lasts a year or two, I'm ahead. BUT I boat in Salt and the spray off the belt would cause havoc. I'd have to wash the engine if this were due to happen. I feel your pain. Thx for the comment! Let us know how you make out.
@@chrisg1076 Yeah, I rebuilt my OEM pump for about $40 but it only lasted one season which is about 25hrs for me. When salt water starts running out the weep hole the belt sprays it everywhere and I had to replace two pulleys that severely corroded due to the spray. Just rebuilt it again so will be keeping a close eye on it.
@@pauldionne2884 I know what you mean. Due to the former owner running it in salt with a weeping circulating pump, I had to replace the alternator, idler pully, power steering pully and descale everything else. Keep an eye for sure!
I bought a Chinese water pump replacement. It lasted 5 minutes in water and then three out of the four brass retainers broke and the engine overheated. Luckily we were near a jetty and got the tools to replace it with the original until a new one could arrive.
Mera, I know what you're talking about. I bought a knockoff trim sensor. Worked for 2 trips and 'Poof!' Guess it's all a gamble really. Myself, it wasn't worth the $$$. Glad you made it back safe. Myself, I carry towing but near a jetty with current, you were lucky and good to keep the old one. Smart move!
Hey Djr, been Okay. BUT I haven't been out much since the last big trip. The one I ordered is no longer available I believe but there others that are listed lower in the page of the link. I'd read the comments and see what they have to say. I did see some OEM remarks that they 'wiggle' as well. If you find one and it works for you, let us know pls! Best of luck. Thx!
Isn't that really a bad design? What happens if the bearing seizes while the engine is running. The pump will start spinning with the crank, ripping the hoses out and sinking the boat because it is below the water line. Am I understanding this design properly, or am I way off base?
I can see your thoughts. I've wondered about that as well. In my mind I just put in the realm what if you toss a rod though the oil pan and fracture the fiberglass. Hope it never happens! There is a fairly strong arm that keeps the pump itself from spinning. Could it get knocked off or broken, I suspect so.
Sorry for the delay. Take a look at 5:46 and see if that hose routing looks the same as yours? The bottom hose is the long one. I would get a pic but the boat is on the lift right now. Let us know how you make out.
Great video, thanks. I was wondering where you found the instructions to do this and the OEM specs for that form a gasket sealant etc…. I am struggling to get that shim into the first part of the carrier. There is no way to get the bolt and shim in together, correct. It appears you have to lay the shim flat to get it in then flip it to get the correct orientation? I have siliconed the bolt onto the socket it is setting up now I’m hoping that will hold long enough to get the threads started. I don’t have one of those finger grabbers, I may need to purchase that. Also just a note for others I used a 1-1/4” galvanized pipe 6” long and put a cap on the end, that seal fit in perfectly I just ground off the sharp edge on the end. I also used a 3” abs pipe and made the tool to remove the carrier I put a clean out adapter and added the screw cap with the square nut on the end so that I could use a crescent wrench to tighten it. It worked great. Any help with my questions would be appreciated Chris. Thanks again for posting this.
Hey Allen, I like your comment about the pipe for inserting the seal!!! I got the idea from the permatex from a website forum. Can't remember where at this time but a highly respected person that did this for a living said in school that is what they used. Always put sealant on the seal. Myself I didn't agree but the more I read, I did it anyway. Don't know if this helped or not but so far (knock on wood), no contamination in the gear lube. Yes! I agree that bolt and shim stock is a bear! Patience was my key. Those 3 finger grab tools are great to have around. There is a volvo tool for doing this as shown in the manual download. I improvised as you are. Just take your time and please let us know how you made out. My carrier was really in tight and have seen damage others did with galvanized pipe. If you were able to do it with ABS, that is great! Seems like you put a lot of thought into it. Keep us updated please and best of luck! Patience, flashlight and afterwards, a couple beers!
Thanks for the quick reply, as luck would have it I failed the pressure test, the shop that worked on my boat last year broke the carrier housing and tried to repair it with JB weld and didn’t tell me. They did a horrible job and it didn’t hold. Looks like my shaft bearing is showing wear on it also so I am giving up and taking the boat to a different shop. Likes like my boating season will be shortened by 3-4 weeks. I will keep an eye out for more of your videos I appreciate how through you are In Your repairs.
@@allancote3952 Crap so sorry to hear! That is why I try to do stuff myself as even some of the 'so called professionals' are not that. I once had a Volvo 280 repaired at a shop. The next person who got into it said there were teeth missing on the gears and no shavings in the oil. Again, sorry to hear. 3 to 4 weeks aint nuthing. Grass needs cutting, ants need to be gone, etc. Family time. Keep your chin up and make it through the grind. I chalk it up as a 'test' to see your patience. Best of luck, stay in touch!
Did you guys make sure you put the hoses on correctly? I'm suspecting yes as it would be difficult to mix them up. Are you on muffs with the issue of intake water? May want to make sure the hub in the impeller isn't spun. I've never experienced that but I've heard others have.
Yes, make sure the hoses are not reversed or you get no flow. Mine had a cracked fitting on the intake hose, inside the lower unit. But that never affected anything when I had the garden hose on its attachment next to the sea pump.
Be sure to check my channel on the construction of this $79 water pump instead of $350+ for an OEM Volvo Penta. Let us know your thoughts about the slight wobble. Does yours have one? Thanks for watching.
Be sure to check my channel on how to pressure and vacuum test your Outdrive as well as changing the prop shaft seal. Also, a bit about the raw water pump. Share your experiences below. Thanks for watching.
