Hey, I am Albert! This channel is about 3D printing, 3D printers and more! For business inquiries use the email below. For everything else, contact me at info@the247.de
And on my 3d printer i consider acceleration above 6000 to be harmful to cabinet below, floor and neighbor relationships. Printing benchy below 20 minutes feels too fast already, 25 is fine and 40 for quality.
crazy how fast 3d Printing is evolving in the last few years! can't imagine in the next few years how will this scene look. Of course machines like this one rat rig or Voron types are not entry level demanding an extensive knowledge in the matter. Love also everything about the structure of the video. You gained a new subscriber!
Beautiful machine. And 500x500? That's HUGE!! I'd love to have something like that. The price isn't bad, but they're still not selling them on their website. Just a queue to joint to eventually maybe get one. I'm hoping, with more feedback from people like yourself, they'll be able to further improve this printer and it'll really be something great to own, without too much fuss. I don't think I'd like to build one myself, so it would have to be a pre-built for me. Looking forward to more reviews of this printer.
how thick can you engrave on metal? or aluminum with this machine? i seen the pcnc and that was engraving pretty nice. i suppose its better than this machine?
How can someone say a printer is too big there's never too big when it comes to 3D printing if you have a spare bedroom in your house that you could dedicate TO13D printer and have room to walk around it you be a moron not to get it if it was in your price range
What happens with retractions and printing hot? Can you print much hotter, with less oozing? Will this result in stronger parts? Remembering that you will be printing at higher ambient temps due to the bed heat
i have to say first, thank you for going over all this its very insightful... and i'm sure you know volumes more than i probably will about the subject i'm sure. i'll add my 2 cents and probably state the obvious in that i'm always surprised by filament paths to the extruder being so convoluted (and this is not at all unique to rat rig or any one mfr ive observed and in many ways is more of a user choice or assembly decision based on how fast one wishes to run their unit)... but when printing is happening so much faster than before with higher end corexy's and klipper now it seems obvious that any resistance at all caused by reverse bowden setups of any significant length will degrade quality of the print one way or another, teflon tube or not its still added resistance per unit of length and then especially per curve or tight corner in the filament path. the easy solution to me has always been to do away with as many bends as possible and orient the filament spool in a location where path of least resistance is possible (directly above on a bearing roller unspooling almost straight to the extruder regardless of convenience or my desire for prettier more compact solutions) even with my slow as molasses enders any kind of reverse bowden i've tried including out of short pieces from a dry box has always turned out to be a hindrance to quality and speed upon close observation. anyway... like i said i'm sure i'm stating the obvious here. probably already known by yourself and most reading this. but again thanks for the video. looking forward to putting my 400 together shortly
I think this video made me realize why smaller build volume printers have their place. Imagine actually being able to print that fast, and with good results. That would be insane for prototyping I'm still waiting for my 500mm³ RatRig V-Core-4 to arrive, and I would never be able to go that fast. Well, more reason to buy even more 3D printers I guess.
Faster, much lower power draw on the heated bed, faster bed heating, usually cheaper parts to repair - it's almost always better to run as small of a printer as you can (unless it's lower quality). I'm also eyeing the rat rig 400 or 500, but it's harder to justify because I know it'll get less use than my bambu p1s
I have the P1S and it's great but, I've just bought the A1 Mini for my grandchildren. They are 6 and 7 years old but feel that they will be able with help, use this and produce fun things!
no, first put multiple independent print head static beam bridges over an open sling bed (or rotating print bed). yes multiply your print speed simply. make sure the print head beams are slim so you can fit as many print heads as possible. otherwise normal bed slinger features remain. spinning print bead enables same sized enclosure. otherwise open no enclosure normal bed slinger 3d printer. this way you can print with multiple filaments at once. or multiple same filaments at once. no interference. just update the slicer to handle multiple single-axis independent print heads moving at same time on the same z-level. its up to the slicer to plan the print bed sling/spin movement and sideways print-head movements optimally. of course you can have all the print heads be super small, and be occupying smaller area than the print bed, so also small prints benefit from all print head beam bridge lines. otherwise big printers are most suitable for big prints and small printers for small prints. or just make the print heads small. only the feeder cable and melt head on the moving thing. everything else in the support frame.
Horizontal bridging probably had better cooling because air from the printer head would collide with the plate and blow practically from top and bottom while in vertical scenario cooling would be significantly weaker.
1500w print bed!? Here in north america we've got 110-120v power systems and household fuses and breakers are typically only 15a and are only rated to 80% max sustained duty cycle or roughly 1320-1440w max sustained power. in order to use such a printer reliably, I would have to get a dedicated 20a circuit installed (not cheap)!
