Worth noting that Lexus and the OEM filter use an arrow pointing UP to donate which way the filter goes, but most after market filters use an arrow to denote which way the air flow goes, which is down. Not sure it matters, but there's probably a lot of people with them in the 'wrong' way.
It's a mock up built at home where all my tools and power are, then disassembled and put back together on location. Didn't want to drive 2 hours to the closest store for a screw or 2x4's.
Wow! Now that is some skill and experience. My menu readout (the one under the RPM) is very dim. Is there a way to replace only that little readout, or would I need to replace the entire instrument cluster?
So the thermostat, when put in with a new o-ring and the old one removed, will just sit inside the housing properly? I’m probably doing it wrong but whenever I put the t stat in, it just falls down towards the bottom and it won’t sit flush with the face of the housing.
Thanks for the video i will headed to pick a part tomorrow to get one as mine is shot where it tilts loose like a soup sandwhich Update I got the column put it in my beep tomorrow The key cyclinder was locked no key so remove all the mounting bolts and wires and just spun the hole column to get box bolt Got it home and drill the lock moved some small stuff it's ready for install tomorrow with matching key
#Salute thank you fir he video. I'm going ti do that ti my 98 ZJ today hopefully. I read there us supposed to be a mesh screen to keeo all the debris out. I gotta clean thst junk out and install a screen somehow to keeo the junk out.
Mistake you made is that you didn't extend the bottom of bed first. You could have put a plywood underneath the original plywood that overlaps much as it needed to expand the size of the bed. Than start building onto the new plywood instead of the old base. This way you could fit into that bed because you made it longer than it was originally or kept the same length. All that material that you put in takes up many inches making the whole bed area much smaller than originally was if you don't expend the bottom 1st and build inward.
I use the Mayhew shake n brake tool for the first time. Removed every windshield bolt like it was nothing, no lube at all. Not one striped. I couldn't move any beforehand . It even worked on the front bumper bolts.
I guess you've discovered that the tires cannot support the weight. I made the same mistake. Second time I did this I used leuwan and painted with flex seal. ½partical board? Too heavy!
So if you are going to be moving this trailer to a permanent Location on a piece of property that you own to reinforce those kickouts for the front and back extensions, you're absolute method to do that is to build walls on the sides and the front or outer facing. Wall and make them giant storage cabinets! In other words, you're going to build storage compartments that go up underneath to support those! Because with a pop-up pamper like that, you are at lack of storage space! So instead of using just 4 / 4 to support it, build a compartmeant that you can permanently place underneath there and if you ever have to move this camper. Well then , you can slide them out and you can move them into another location where the camper will be at! They also have fiberglass paint, which is used specifically for boats! When you make whatever it is that you're going to support those extenders with even deciding that you have on the outside. Because this is the first video that I'm actually watching. And I am now a new subscriber. You can place that on the exterior and you don't ever have to worry about penetration from water and weather! The other thing you could do is create more space because if you are going to move this camper, what you can do is on the left side as you walk in, you can actually put a kick out beyond the back of that camper, so you can actually lay flat. Instead of instead of making space on the inside of what's already existing.
