AccuTrak is great for certain conditions but isn’t considered a replacement for electronic leak detector because of how it interacts with fluorescent lights and MRI machines and many other devices that cause high frequency interference (including some VFD’s). There is a similar device made by Amprobe with enhanced sensitivity ranges that supposedly filter out high frequency disturbances but I’ve never known anyone who has used one to hear first hand how well it works in the field like I have the former. H10 pro maintenance tune up kit is over $500 from United Refrigeration (my area cost) and the battery which goes bad after a few years is over $150. That’s nearly the cost of the whole unit. Factoring in how long it takes to dial in and the fact you are tethered to a short pen which prevents you from getting back into tight spaces I’d steer anyone I can away from buying one without at least considering those things first. Having said that I found leaks with mine that weren’t possible with anything else that was around at the time that I was aware of and had access to. Just bought the Infinicon D Tek Stratus and the extra few hundred dollars was well worth the money so far. Its pinpointing capabilities are better than the H10 Pro and ease of use is far less finicky in my opinion. My two cents. Hope this helps.
I’ll have to look into that amprobe instrument. Yeah i try telling people who never used an ultrasonic that you need to have it completely silenced with no electrical noise going on or your gonna hard time. lol just ordered a new sensor for my H10. My battery has been bad for awhile I have to leave it plugged in. I see mixed reviews on the stratus. Hvac guy on RU-vid had issues with it. NorCal Dave doesn’t like it as well. I mean everybody will have different opinions of course, but hvac guys unit wouldn’t work and kept having issues with his.
@@hvacslayer2929 we have an AAON Unit RN-011-08-0-EA09-3FB 11T Roof top unit. The reset source is space temperature and the cooling mode enable setpoint is 74, the heating setpoint is 71. sat coolingSAT COOLING high reset source is 80, low reset source is 70, cooling staging window is 5, mod cooling window is 10,SAT SETPOINT OR LOW SAT LIMIT FOR RESET IS 50, SAT High Reset limit is 60, mechanical cooling oat lockout is 35, low cut off temp is 40 SAT HEATING - high reset source is 80, low reset source is 60, heat staging window is 5, mod heating window is 10, Low SAT Limit reset is 90 heating OAT lockout is 90, high temp cutoff is 150. The room that uses this unit has a 25foot ceiling and 80 feet long. Yesterday the temperature of that room was 68 degrees. i tried to use the control unit to increase the temp, but no luck - room would not increase temp. It was showing that the heat was on. It was 80degrees outside but I didnt think the outside temperature made a difference since the reset source is space temp. I am happy to send you pictures of all the settings. this is driving me nuts!
I am replacing one of these motors tomorrow . It’s ICP 6 ton gas package. Looks 100% the save. That motor lasted 7 weeks ONLY! It’s under warranty, however that motor s ~$1200 (!!!!!) at United Refrigeration! So, I am not sure if I want to install these units for my customers in a future.
I’m constantly seeing/hearing these motors going down. One of the things to look for is static pressure I believe these are very picky on static pressure.
Well, this particular RTU just got the entire ducts re-done. It was VERY deficient air ducts set up. It was ~800 CFM on the return side…. For a 6 ton unit!!!!! That Sudway restaurant was always sweating. So, I’ve got the entire system done correctly with ~3000 CFM on the return and ~2500 CFM for the supplies. It started to cool… ran happy for 2 days and… that damn motor just quit!
@@edlauren9434 right so now it’s running correctly and set to correct static for the motor. I also read issues with the high temp limit on the indoor section believe that was a recall on select years. And an issue regarding voltage with the plug.
Hello i have a problem with my heater, he makes the process , but drops a failure: lockout gas valve fail 1. I change the valve but continuos the failure.
Are you getting the correct gas pressure to valve? How’s the system determine flame prove? Flame rod or HSI? You’ll need to check micro amps. If you are getting flame and high micro amp reading than it sounds like loose wiring issue ignition module/board issue. If there’s a peep hole look though it upon lighting to see if your getting a flame.
Please make another video with your microphone inside the head set! I was glad to find this video reviewing the Accutrak Ultrasonic Leak Detector; but, it turned out to be a complete disappointment. I was hoping to actually hear what a leak sounds like with this tool and not just a verbal description of the sound. All I ever hear from this device is the radio squealing you describe here no mater where in the room it is positioned (even near a known leak!) Thanks for getting my hopes up. I returned this tool to the supplier because I thought it was defective. The one they sent to replace it sounds exactly the same way. I paid a lot of money for this unit so I look forward to learning what I’m supposed to be hearing in your next video about this tool. Thanks for the effort.
If you are hearing squealing than you have the sensitivity set to high. I don’t wear a mic, I use a go pro or my iPhone and whateve those pick up it that’s what it gets. I don’t have time to get into detail on editing and using a mic I just go and film. The video was more a comparison from the other leak detection methods. I mentioned these are so sensitive if you are near high voltage it will pick it up or any of radio interference. To get a true idea of a leak make a tiny hole on a Schrader cap and have it on a refer tank valve, slightly open it and use the ultra to go near it listening you’ll definitely hear what it’s suppose to sound like. Then spray some soap on it so you hear what it sounds like wet. There is other videos on RU-vid that demonstrate the noise from these tools. I know Shannon knight has one hooked up to a speaker so you can hear it. Hope this puts gives you some confidence in learning how to use it. Also key is using good pair of isolation headphones if you are using the crappy Walkman style ones that came with it well you already lost the battle. I use skullcandy crusher headphones with extra cushion ear pads.
Well it’s all about listening and the feedback being sent back to the headphones. The original headphones were terrible like some Walkman headphones. I had a spare pare or skull candy crushers that I use they Isolate noise somewhat but the sound is Crystal clear. If you get the higher accutrak model it comes with better headphones they look noise canceling.
100% with you! I love to be able to repair my equipment without ordering these OEM only very special and crazy expensive parts. One my customer is running the restaurant with no A/C (1.5 month old RTU) and that damn blower motor has to be shipped from the factory.. So, no A/C at that restaurant for 4-5 days…. At Memphis… with 97F outside….
Is the motor on a VFD (Variable Frequency Drive)? I feel the bearing problem is most likely a result of shaft voltage. The approach is to cut the bearing apart and look for shaft voltage and possible fluting. You could start with popping the old bearing shields and looking at the grease inside. If it is discolored that is the first sign of micro arcing caused by the shaft voltage. The voltage on the shaft sparks across the grease film inside the bearing. There are many grounding brush solutions available to prevent bearing damage from shaft voltage. Another additional protection measure would be to install ceramic ball bearings which insulate and break the electrical path through the bearings. I am a Reliability Specialist for the largest Midwest Electric Motor Repair Shop Company, I fix problems like this daily.
I’ve heard of this happening. When I replace OG motors I end up getting new motors that come with the ring grounding kits installed already. There’s also a product out that look like current donuts but instead they help prevent arc from VFD’s. My thing is I have original motors that are close to 20 years old on VFD’s they are still rocking. But anything coming out from the last 5 years seems like pure trash does not last.
I might be crazy but I expected it to pull down way faster than that especially with the trublu hose. Looks like you are using the legacy fittings on the trublu they have newer high flow ones now that are less restrictive and machined out of one piece.
That Accutrak is a cheap piece of junk. I love ultrasonic but that one is junk. Break down and buy a nice one. It need wide frequency adjustment to cancel out different ultrasonic sounds. You should be able to hear a leak that big from 10-15 ft and hone in on it in seconds. I do know Accutrak makes one that cost around $5K it maybe better. I know my Fisher will blow that thing out the water. You can complain about the price but a good one will find a huge leak like that 10X faster with more accuracy
On another note. Those home depot buckets suck. Find yourself a painter and ask him for empty paint buckets, they just throw them away. Or just go to sherwin williams and buy them there. Just my two cents. Power to you Brother!!!
Hey man awesome video. I’m working on the same damn boiler now and wasn’t sure what the best way to get to the inducer motors. Getting a 1 flash code, about to take the top off and check the inducers! Thanks!
The meter doesn’t send enough to affect a building ground. It stops even raising the voltage once it senses a low enough resistance. Even when set to 1000 V it’ll sometimes stop at like 2-3 V.
