May I suggest checking your compaction and it should be 200psi or less and look into Agrothrive which is a liquid fertilizer that I’ve use with great success.
Yes, Troy. I have done it too and some of the simple joy of hunting gets lost in that mission. In the end, we do this for a lot of reasons, but one of them is joy of just being out there and having a few different bucks on the list definitely keeps that from becoming an obsession. Have a great day.
Bill i am 42yo and i have been watching ur shows since i was a kid and watching now i can only hope i am half as good at trying to do the stuff u do. Plots, takin trophies, the whole nine yards. U are a great inspiration. I have a question for my going on now three yr trial plot. I only have 10acres of my own property with mainly timber/ creek and i have 1/2 acres i have put into beans. Tried corn, pearl millet and beans this summer and the millet came up great beans were short but think choked out. I have couple bags of boss buffet, which is a blend of wheat,oats, cow peas, turnips, and a couple other fall plant that id like to plant for fall. Should i just broadcast it into what i have planted or mow a bit of it down and then plant it. And when should i put it in the ground? I am in North Central Oklahoma. Any advice id greatly appreciate sir.
John, I appreciate the comment and the years of support. Thanks. In your situation, I would definitely kill part of the plot to plant the fall blend. That probably means spraying it with some kind of glyphosate herbicide (RoundUp is one option). Then you should either till it up before spreading the seed blend or (if you aren't going to till) spread the seed and then mow the plot to work the seed down to the ground and cover it with residue that will help hold moisture. In your area, I would try to have that blend planted by late August. Good luck.
I think that's where the stand will end up. I probably won't start there. I will likely be as far downwind as possible to start so that will be the trees out by the edge of the larger ag field.
Hey Bill, thank you for sharing. How much lyme or other soil builder did you need to spread on the new plots, if any? I'm asking because your property is on the other side of the river from mine, and I will be doing some TSI to open up some small openings in the forest. I agree that giant bulldozers and excavators tear up the land, making it look unnatural and unfinished. That stump auger is a great option because the fine fibers it makes of the stump can break down faster. Keep up the great work!
Paul, you really need a soil test to do it right. Whitetail Institute has a great system I am using now that ties soil tests to an app called Plot Perfection. I have only bought a few apps in my life but this system is worth it. You can sample every plot every year and just send them the dirt along with which plot it came from and what you want to plant there and they log the results right on your app. It's a really cool system.
Another great video thanks !! Quick question I have a old lawn that’s been mowed for years if I kill the grass can I seed right into the dead grass or should I turn it over or even burn it soil is already excellent. Most of my plots are in the big timber but not this one thanks again . We also need more input from Jordan she has some really good thoughts and questions!
Thanks Paul. I will let her know. It works best if you till it first so you are sure to get good seed to soil contact. But, you can seed right into the grass withdecentresults. It works best if you can find a way to get the seed worked down to the ground. Maybe consider mowing it right after spreading the seed.
Bill. You should put a water tank or tub if you will up there this year just as an experiment to see if the deer come to it since your plot will not be coming in this year. Since you’re trying different experiments with different scenarios. As always enjoy watching
It should come in this year. I planted it to Whitetail Institute Radish blend and that should start growing once we get another good rain. But, you are right, a small pond in that area would also be good - especially during the rut. Have a great day.
Deer, squirrels, chipmunks, maybe raccoons - those are the main things. I bet other stuff here and there too, like woodchucks/groundhogs. Everything seems to key on them when they are dropping.
it took me a phone call and 6 hours to get my food plot set up the farmer had everything i needed and i used a hand spinning seed thrower and then. it helps if you pick a spot thats already cleared
Food plots are a fascinating study in hunting and human nature. A large expenditure in labor and money that concentrates deer, which in turn, potentially increases the number of deer (doe factories) and the chance of disease within the herd. Then, when difficult growing conditions ensue, such as drought, the grower finds themselves in the "when you need them, you can't grow them" situation - expending labor and money on a failing effort. Lastly, if the landowner truly wants to impact their herd, they require at least 3 percent of total habitat planted in both warm and cool-season forages and most are likely not planting enough food to truly help the herd. Like I said - fascinating. But if the hunter has a solid stand approach, he or she can bet on pretty easy and productive evening hunting.
A 1 acre brassica plot can produce up to 4 tons. 8000 pounds divided by 15 deer = 533 pounds per deer. 533 divided by 10 pounds of food per day per deer = 53 days of food in the most crucial time for deer assuming they ate nothing else. Seems worthwhile to me. That’s just a scenario for my small parcel. I bet Bill here produces enough food to support 100 deer for the winter
That can be the case in some situations. I have a friend who once said, "I would just take handfuls of $20 bills and set them on fire but planting food plots is more fun." He was hunting/managing in southern IN at a time when the population was way too high. They ate everything he planted almost as soon as it came up. I am not sure of the status of that area now.
Brassicas planted in mid July ? Seems early ? Tried that myself once the plants and bulbs were too big to the point that deer didn’t touch till after season ended. Or are you planting just to break down the soil ?
You may be farther south. Usually, they recommend a July 25 planting date for brassicas in this region. I just hate missing any mid-summer rains and if the seeds are in the ground a bit early (by mid-July) there is some chance that I will catch a rain that I might not otherwise catch if I wait until late July to plant. It didn't happen this year as it has been dry since I planted. The ideal planting date for brassicas is roughly 60 days before first frost and 90 days before the first hard killing freeze. First frost here is around September 25, so July 25 is prime time for brassica planting in this area. Have a great day.
I like your utilization of marginal areas like the old pasture but I’m curious. Have you considered converting any of that to something like warm season grasses or edge feathering? I feel like that could move doe bedding closer to your food leaving more room in the timber for bucks.
That is a good thought, but I am going to let all that marginal ground around that top field sit for a few years. There are hundreds of small (just a few feet tall) wild apple trees coming up in there. In fact, we pulled or sprayed at least ten of them just to make this plot. I want to give nature a few more years in this area (since the cows are now out) to see what will come up here naturally before I start doing anything. Burning would be an option, but that would kill most of the apple trees. This spot is super unique in all the properties I have owned or looked at in the sheer number of wild apple trees either already up and bearing fruit, or growing. If they all all make it, this will be really cool in about ten years with several hundred apple trees creating lots of food and bedding cover in this area.
@@bill-winkeI like that a lot! On my home farm I had the chance to witness what comes once cows are removed and it’s beautiful. We’re 20 years outside of cows being on it now, after generations of my grandfathers using it as pasture, and you could see the natural succession get better year after year. I hope it goes well for you!
The local co-op only has the PowerMax 3, I think. That is an actual RoundUp product. I don't use much spray in a year but I should look around for some other sources. Thanks for the comment.
Hey when using garlon you want to spray around the cambium of the stump not in the heart wood. The phloem and xylem carry nutrients up and down there so that will kill the stump from producing anything .
When clearing timber, what direction or position do you suggest placing stumps and trees? I don’t want to impact deer travel but burning it all would also take a lot of time and money. We are doing 5 (1 -2) acre openings with a dozer
Steven, I know a lot of guys like to pile the trees up in ways to create funnels. I don't like that myself. If you aren't wanting to do that, I would suggest pushing the trees separately as far back into the timber as you can in every direction so they are spread out and not a visual distraction when hunting the spot. I have done it this way in the rare cases where I did hire a bulldozer to create plots. Good luck. Sounds like a great project.
I appreciate the input. That would work great on the open areas where it is just rose, but the other project was pulling the MFR from away from the apple trees. We did dozens of them that day. The MFR is in there so tight next to the apple trees that you have to be kind of surgical in getting it out. That is where the articulating jaws of the stump bucket really come in handy. Have a great day.
Hey Bill, I have a first year food plot I am planting this year into brassicas. Have you had success planting brassicas into the dead vegetation on the ground? I’m worried my seed won’t get great soil contact and might struggle to grow through the thatch.
Ben, you either need a hard rain or you need to shake things up a little. You can do that by dragging something across it or even possibly by mowing it with a bush hog. I would be worried about getting good seed to soil contact otherwise, especially if the weeds are thick. Another option is to burn the residue off with fire first to get a clean seedbed. Good luck.
Good point. I didn't want to add the 2,4-D in this case because I was planting the brassicas soon after spraying and I have learned the hard way that 2,4-D does have a short residual period of roughly 2 weeks before you can plant a broadleaf plant in the same area. I lost one entire planting several years back just to learn that fact! Thanks for the input.
Ron, probably not. Liquid fertilizer is not readily available here and harder to move around. It is pretty easy to get to both of these plots with a tractor and ATV so I can carry a lot of dry fertilizer in the bucket of the tractor and then spread it with the rear mounted spreader on my ATV. That has worked well for me in the past. Just need to make sure I have a rain coming before I spread any nitrogen (urea) or I will lose some to evaporation. Have a great day.
Good point. The leaf decay creates an acidic seedbed. Ideally, a person would burn the dead leaves off late every winter to keep from having this problem compound over time once the plot is made. I know guys that even use a leaf blower to blow them clean in the spring. Or otherwise just plan on adding some pelletized lime each spring. Have a great day.
A bulldozer in the right hands is the best tool for making food plots with medium sized trees. I've been making them for 20 years and can use skidsteer or dozer. I'll take good video next time with a how to in a low impact way. Also, right towards the end of dozer work spread out food plot seed and the dozer walks it in while finishing up
That is a good plan. I have used them twice and they can get a lot done fast. But as you say - has to be in the right hands. My plots were made by someone who didn't care what it looked like afterwards. It took longer to clean up after the bulldozer (push the trees and stumps out of sight) than it did to make the plots. But, I am sure with some care, the dozer would be better than the skid steer. Thanks for the input.
Great video! I just finished clearing a 1/4 acre food plot in the woods, putting a box blind on one end, planting a mix of clover/ chicory, alfalfa and a brassica mix. Fertilized with 19-19-19 last week, have sprayed twice, going to til and plant August 1 - August 15 before a good soaking rain. Looking forward to the results!
Jordan made the best comment in this one when she asked about the pasture bs wooded areas. The topsoil is pretty excellent in pastures (from what I’ve seen) here across river from you in wisc. Get into woods and not much topsoil comparatively speaking.
They also dry out way faster in the timber on a dry year because of all the tree roots under the soil. They work great on wet years, but much tougher on dry years.
You're always putting out quality videos on your channel. It's what makes your channel my favorite. I'm going on my 5th year of food plotting. I don't own big equipment. Just a Troy-bilt super bronco tiller, Troy-bilt multi tool with brush cutter and chainsaw, John Deere lawnmower to pull my wagon, seed spreader and some hand tools. Cutting out roughly 15ft by 15ft sections into the thick shrubs at a time. It's a beautiful thing to slowly evolve the plots into what I dreamed of them being 3-4 years ago in my head and watching how significant it is to my deer herd year after year. My work will never be done and I'm beyond thankful for it. It's my purpose. Always dreaming big out on my families homestead.
Did exactly this on the beans I planted this year! Weeds are about 10 inches tall and sprayed them yesterday. I did half of a 3 acre plot tilled and drilled. Then did the other half no till drill so excited to see that difference side by side!
After fighting inexpensive 50 gallon 3pt and various 25 gal UTV Fimco sprayers for years and years, with the nozzles plugging, hoses splitting, pumps failing etc.... and them just NOT WORKINGI gave up. I purchased an F/S Manufacturing 50 gallon boom sprayer for my Ranger. It has a 5 hp Honda gas engine and 16' boom in sections that can be narrowed down to 4' behind the UTV, spraying down various area to reduce footage distance of the spray. I have owned it 4 yrs, and it is the best quality sprayer I have ever owned, and it is the only one I use... I have not had a single issue. I also purchased a foamer with it, as I seemed to be missing areas all the time and going back to respray. We spray between 5-8 acres on our food plots each year. The sprayer was not cheap but it was always frustrating in the past to get all ready to spray and have issues with nozzles, hoses etc etc....basically the sprayer not working, and not being able to spray until I picked up the parts etc!!! The cost of the F/S was well worth the value when I purchased, it, I think they are out of West Fargo ND. Thanks Bill for all the information you share, Bob SWWI
I agree Bob. I have rebuilt three sprayers in my life, and while they are low tech and the work is kind of rewarding it is definitely something you want to do off season so you aren't messing with it when you really need it. You never go wrong buying quality. I have never once in my life said. "I wish I had gotten something of lower quality." Granted, you have to stay in your budget but buying the best you can afford is always good advice.
Ive always aimed where the white of the belly meets the brown, right on the line behind the front leg and its been 98% success rate. I dont want to talk about that 2% 😂😂
