VW Beetle type1 Super Beetle Fuel Gauge, senders and Vibrator/regulator/stabilizer Issues, findings and research. Videos are not production quality but should be used for others to resolve issues and promote the Distributors, Parts dealers and Manufacturers to resolve the ongoing issues with the gauges, senders and regulators.
Will give it a try... Information.. The OEM tank fuel outlet is a bolt on that has a filter in the tank and the outlet tube. Aftermarket from what I have found out has the tube welded, thus I believe there is no filter. The bad is the OEM tank can leak at the connection.. UGGG! Getting a good washer and smoothing out the mating surface of the tank is a must. Mine was a bit rusty and did leak.
This video might help you understand how the fuel gauge system works... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-G2NGAHjPbNU.htmlsi=l_-Ua13p-s4XlGpZ
You did not design the regulator, you put some sketchy shrink wrap on an off the shelf part, as a casing, instead of an actual proper casing. Don't burn your car down. For the electronics, what voltage, and what is the maximum current?
Listen to what I said... " Implemented into". Current? You can figure it out, it sounds like you have some experience. The minimum resistance of the sender is 10 ohms, the gauge resistance is 30 ohms. The voltage is 6.4 vdc... If you watch a bit more you will see that I implemented a .5 amp pico fuse on the input to the regulator. Then I added a 7.5v 5watt zener on the output of the regulator to prevent over voltage if the regulator had an issue. Since you seem to know a bit about electronics you should be able to explain the need for that into the design to implement the buck regulator into fuel gauge system. As for the wrapping it is high temp shrink wrap. It was needed to keep from shorting the regulator on the metal parts of the car. So the current is what? 160ma max. Design? Well I did use a buck regulator then designing the needed protection and correct wiring is a design adventure eh? Maybe you have a 69- to 8x beetle etc that has an inoperable fuel gauge eh? If so I have provided you a way isolate which component is defective and resolve the issue. BTW many other makes of cars use the same basic methods of the fuel gauge system. Many do not have OEM parts to make the OEM gauge work so they end up putting Aftermarket gauges etc on the dash of their vehicles. The VW's, there are no OEM parts avail to make it work with the aftermarket gauges nor regulators... This is the direction I have offered as a solution for those that want their gauge to work properly! Many VW's folks want to keep their car as close to orig as possible.
@@vwbeetlefuelgaugesystem what is the input voltage? With 160mA, i would just use a linear regulator. As for the heat shrink, that stuff is fine for cable but will break and tear over time on pointy surfaces. I would suggest you use a proper plastic enclosure.
@@commandoPR There is no pointy surfaces and it is secure from any vibration. My goal for it was to protect it from someone poking around in the area where the regulator is secured! Maybe you have not seen the exposed wiring in a vintage vw... It is scary! I only make 4 of these and decided I wanted something different, smaller and more compact. Watch the final video and you will see that I have settled on the encased buck regulator. That is what I would recommend. I am not selling, nor making $$$ off of the tube. I only want to offer a solution for those VW guys to have a fuel gauge that works. I have been corresponding with an engineer in Sweden and we have been corresponding with the gauge and sender mfg. JP Powergroups... They are not interested in a solution, only $$$$$$. My tube channel has had over 80,000 views... Huston has a problem eh?
@@vwbeetlefuelgaugesystemi'm sorry you feel offended by my advice. If you're scared by the exposed wiring in your vehicle, i would suggest to do a proper rewiring. It should not be scary.
@@commandoPR Oh not at all offended! All VW's from 1949 had exposed wiring under the hood, front. Not scary to me but I have seen the results of folks working on them that are not careful when working around the exposed wiring. www.jbugs.com/store/graphics/00000001/25/main-wiring-harness-pic6.jpg
How then will you get enough current to make the gauge go to full? If you watch my other videos using the buck regulators you will see what the issue is. The difference in the resistance of the OEM gauge and the After market gauges is about 50%... Thus an increase of the output of the Vibrator/regulator. You did not read my comments for this video! Thanks for the reply.
Thank you for this video. I have a 74 super beetle. 5:25, If I use an aftermarket regulator and gauge, will the range just be from 0-1/2 tank? Will empty still be empty? I am more concerned about running out of gas than reading full. Thank you.
Can't say for sure that the range between R and E will be 1 more gallon to go so I would recommend you find a time that you can fill the tank or test when the gauge is showing 1/4 tank. Then syphon the gas out of the tank one gallon or so at a time and see where the gauge ends up at. 1/4 tank is going to be about 10.5 gallons. 10.5 / 4 = 2.6 gallons. So one gallon out you should see the gauge close to R. That would mean you have about 1.5 gallons to go... So I would take another gallon out and see where the gauge sits. There are a lot of fellas out there just living with the gas level at full showing the same as you. Good luck and post on this channel if you need a bit more information. Jim.
Awesome tutorial, thank you! My 1303 beetle sender was giving resistance readings all over the place, just followed your steps cleaning everything up and now I'm getting a perfectly smooth 11 ohms at full through to 68 at empty! Just refurbished the fuel tank and replaced the (original!) fuel line underneath. Cant wait to install it and have a wormkng fuel gauge!! 👍
I do not know if all super beetles have the same fuel tank, but I suggest to install straight forward the vehicle the long floater, in my case there is enough room to float freely and without getting in troubles with that little window that he is talking.
A longer single float would work until about 1/2 tank. The baffles in the tank keep the arm from going further up. You can see the baffles at 30 seconds into the video. As for proper resistance of the senders, Standard and super there is no difference 10 ohms for full and around 70 for empty. 71-74 SB tanks were the same, then they changed them.
Bought a 73 super beetle. Fuel gauge doesnt work. Replaced the sender due to it being rusted out. The range on my new sender is 10 ohms full and 88 ohms empty. When hooked up to the car the gauge only reads halfway when i put the float to full. Definitely gonna have to spend some time fine tuning that gauge.
Sounds like your gauge is an aftermarket. Measure the resistance to verify. OEM is about 18 ohms, aftermarket is about 30. You can tweak that aftermarket gauge a bit but you will find that you empty reading will be off. Jim.
@VW Super Beetle fuel tank system very much needed this video! Appreciate it and the information! Trying to join the volkswagen forum page 🙏 slowly falling in love with this thing
Great video, very timely for me. My sender was reading very erratically and sometimes not at all. When I followed the directions, and then checked it, I got it to be 10 Ohms full and 72 Ohms empty.
Thank you very, very much for your videos! Just bought an all-original 1979 VW Convertible with 20,300 miles. I have sent off the original fuel-sending unit to a professional to be restored, but your videos will help me!
So I have a original sender, I tested after cleaning and buffing all the contact areas last night at 8 ohms to 80 ohms. Should I use my OEM vibrator on the speedo now or replace it with the zener diode thingee?
Do you still have your OEM gauge? Resistance is <>18 ohms... Non OEM <>30. If you have an OEM gauge then I would go with the zener type from Jbugs etc. 5.1vdc. Keep the vibrator though. If your gauge is a Non OEM then either the via or the zener type will provide a reading but when full you will read about 3/4 tank. I do not recommend doing the zener diode voltage change. Getting the proper voltage of 6.4vdc for the Non OEM gauge is not avail with zener diodes. You could design a regulator circuit adjustable for 6.4... Or get one of the Buck regulators and go that route. If you decide to do that, watch my videos on them. Let me know if you decide to do that route. Are you a member of the samba? If you are pm me... I am blue69baja there. Jim.
@@TonyMcBride100 If you are using your test light alone hooked to the output of the vibrator it will be flashing pretty fast due to the resistance of the test light! The vibration is designed for 10-70 ohms of the sender AND the resistance of the gauge combined.... The gauge, if OEM is about 18 ohms and the aftermarket is about 32. If you are using the test light with the gauge and sender hooked up it will still flash fast due the parallel resistance. What is your symptoms? Need to use caution doing testing. It does not take much to fry the vibrator and the gauge. Are you a member of thesamba? If you are or if not,join and send me a PM... I can help you there.. blue69baja www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewforum.php?f=3 Jim
Yep clean it up and then use a DVM and measure the ohms empty and full and move it slowly up and down and see if it is stable resistance wise. Using a DVM on ohms scale use the 200 ohms scale. 10 ohms for full and about 70 empty.
@@vwbeetlefuelgaugesystem experiment worked the needle is showing fuel the needle is not 100% stable but at least I know how much gas I have thanks again
If you've changed your fuel gauge voltage regulator and It is reading half a tank when filled up this video is for you. You will learn how to modify your amazon voltage regulator (originally it used to be a vibrator there) . You also got after market 34 ohms fuel gauge when system was designed for original that was half of the resistance, twice lower -18 ohms. Here you got the solution. Great Video Sir. Thank you for sharing!
Hope you have soldering skills. If you watch the Buck regulator videos You will see that the ideal voltage for the 30+ohms gauge is 6.4 vdc. There are no Zener diodes avail for that voltage. Jim.
Well, not exactly explaining what it says on the tin i.e. what pushes the nozzle out? If you brake the whole thing down (agonizing to get the contact with their 4 tiny bottom springs back into place) - there is no spring which pushes the glider into to middle. It's just flat disc subject the small notches bottom and top. Shifts loose to the side and back in my case, but works for some reason on a right turn, only. Nothing broken, got a second plastic part to compare. But I might have messed up something or lost a micro-spring up or whatever and you may help and got a closeup how it supposed to be in position above the switch resp. below the lid? Yours sincerely.
Hi, I am away from home and will not be back for a couple of weeks. If you still have a problem could you take a picture to the part you call the switch and lid? So you can not make the assembly work in your hand, not installed? Jim.
Thanx for the reponse Jim. Dragged the suspect into custody. It's a ridge, barely to tell, less than 0.5mm high. The disc rides on the contact switch. In the neutral position the disc glides in front of and towards the middle along of it. The ridge got a park position, an arc at the 3'oclock, setting the indicator handle on the left i.e. to 9'oclock. On a turn this disc moves along the ridge, its extension which shall be caught by the wheel eventually moves closer towards the center. Due to the fact the thinner side of the switch moves opposite side, the disc stays always centered. The switch itself got a spring which tightens the indicator handle to keep it in the desired position and drives at the same time the disc into the middle on a turn. After that your video comes into place. Due to the fact that plastic wears and tears with the decades the disc slips over this ridge eventually and that's the end of it i.e. from that on it works faulty as in my case or not at all. An almost unrepairable nasty malicious piece, but makeable for puritans. Will send you some pics once I am finished, as the result with the old disc where not satisfying me. I will replace it with brass and fix it with a solid screw so it still can move along to the ridge but not overcome it anymore. Guess, you'll probably will have a look at the assembly yourself until then anyway so take care of the following to save you a lot of time and anger which I did not as a first time on that issue: The lid is hold into place by a bolt (handle) and a tiny clip on the other side. Don't worry to brake it off, it's hard and unflexible already and in the way eventually. You'll need to drill holes with a thread anyway, I'll show you. Losen the wiring and you can lift and move the metal-lid to the side to get the switch of and out the handle arms. Note! The switch has a strong spring on it nose (front) with a V-shaped plasic cap which clicks into the given gaps on a turne. That shoots out like a bullet and four tiny springs with one or two copper contacts on the bottom easily fall allover the places. How to get that fiddling stuff back in again I'll pic later too, subject you care. It's maybe not worth the effort because someone get the whole indicator new and very cheap at EBay but it is a matter of stubborness to refrain from in our throwaway society ;-)
@@Tokolyser hey sir I just reassembled my switch as well since I broke it open and wanted to salvage it, I've got it back together but now the switch won't snap into its "parked" position, it snaps into the top and bottom positions though. Would appreciate some advice on this, also I don't know if my switch is different but I didn't see any mention of a tiny metal ball in the switch, I had a metal ball fall out as well and I don't know where that piece goes or if it even belongs in the switch, thank you for your time.
Awesome explanation!!! Learned a lot!!! I see that you are looking at something similar to the carburetor manual on the computer, where can I get this manual? Or can I share it from you for a fee?😆
Are you a member of the Zuwharrie technical site. You can look at the Samurai tech on it. Lots of help and info... bbs.zuwharrie.com/content?action=forum;#c6
Awesome video, I just finished rebuilding my hitachi carb and i wanted to make sure everything is dialed in properly. I do have a concern that when i manually operate my choke lever to open it all the way it doesnt snap shut. is this a worn out return spring possibly? I want to sort this before i put the carb back in the rig. Thank you!!
Checked a couple of my old carbs that have never been apart. The choke on both were a bit sluggish when I touched and moved the little tab by the return spring. I sprayed with carb cleaner and the choke would slam shut. Hope this helps ya. Jim.
Thank you so much!! I learned more about the operation of my samurai carb from this video than constant looking online! Very simple. I have a question about the fuel/air mixture. Is that what you point out at the end? I think my sammy is running rich, and could use some adjustment. I had a mechanic do it in the summer, but its presenting issues during the cold weather. My O2 sensor has been replaced, and I'd like to try to adjust the mix
Yes that is the Idle fuel mixture adjustment only. RPM over <>1500 that adjustment is not used. If you want to adjust it make sure you use a skinny/narrow straight slot screwdriver. You can damage the threads and that would be VERY bad. If it is rich at cold idle then check your cold idle rpm. I like 1700-2100. The cold idle speed adjustment is shown at about 3:10 in my video. This helps the engine burn the excess choke gas and the cold idle lope.. If it is rich above idle and warm then you have an issue with timing, carb or maybe valve adjustments. Hope this helps ya, Jim.
Hi thanks for the video it is really usefull. I have a issue with my car when switch on the ignition without starting its show the fuel quarter tank which is correct and when i start the car it drops halfway down to reserve mark. While driving the car its not stable. some times it rises up some times not showing any reading at all. Recently i cleaned the flooter and even checked with multimeter which showed correct readings. Please help me with this issue
Here is a link to a fella implementing the buck reg... He made one mistake. He was leaving the vibrator aftermarket attached so his gauge reading while pretty good probably would have pegged or nearly pegged for a full reading... Jim ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NmJtnxpQ514.html
Have not done any videos for the carb tear down etc. My bud did a wonderful write up on the carb rebuild and it might help you... Pretty lengthy but it is very good. bbs.zuwharrie.com/content?topic=133663.0
@@vwbeetlefuelgaugesystem Yes,I need help. I have a suzuki samurai with the carburetor in the video, at the first start sits very revved (4500rpm), and after it heats up and decreases rpm less than 1500 dies(as if drowning)
@@canalulluscorpionu9412 Sounds like someone has messed with the adjustments. Look at the video and watch where I point out the cold idle adjustment!.... Turn that screw CCW 1 turn and start the engine cold.. If too high turn continue to turn it until the RPM is about 2000... See how that works. I HOPE that someone has NOT bent that tab that I talk about in the video. Let me know how this adjustment works first. You should become a member of this group and go to the samurai tech part of the forum.... bbs.zuwharrie.com/content
Hello, i have a 1988 samurai 1.3 that has this carb and the wax valve is, or possibly the choke pull off is bad. i would like some advice on putting a manual choke on this carb. thank you in advance.
The regulators are ready to work you just need to wire it up properly and adjust it prior to installing it. Getting the proper terminals and the protection diode and fuse link requires soldering skills. If you are a member of the samba you can PM me there. I am blue69baja on that forum. I can guide you there. www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/index.php?sid=41a774125c41913b31012a892ec8d1d7
@@randywalters9015 Bummer... Did you install the OEM and it was erratic or was that on the bench. If possible, install it and see how it performs.... Best if you can get a Mexico sender.... J bugs has them but make sure that it is a true Mex sender. I like these guys... vwparts.aircooled.net/Fuel-Tank-Sending-Unit-MX-or-B-All-Super-Beetle-p/113-919-051fmebr.htm If the sender leaks let me know. I have a few larger O rings... I will send ya one. Jim.
Great Video! My fast idle actuator on my samurai doesn't work when I turn on the lights or fan. It moves freely, but doesn't change the idle. Could that be from the electronic thing it's hooked up to not working?
I will presume that you have an 87-=89 Zuke with the Hitachi carb and the engine is all stock with OEM emissions still intact! As you know, the Idle up valve is vacuum operated and electronically controlled by the ECM.... There are several things that can keep it from controlling the idle up/down..... 1. The engine compartment/under the hood temp sensor mounted on the firewall. Holds Idle up until the engine room reaches about 60 deg... 2. Engine temp will hold Idle up until the coolant sensor reaches about 170. 3. Generator/battery voltage will engage Idle up if the ECM sees extra load on the gen. Lights, fan... There is a solenoid that the vacuum line from the Idle up vacuum valve is attached. The solenoid has a vacuum input line and it should have vacuum when the engine is running. If the ECU tells the solenoid to turn on then the vacuum will transfer through it to the Idle up solenoid. Check the vacuum coming in to the solenoid... If that is good then it is going to get a bit technical... You might have to go to this website and have us help you there. Lots of threads on just this subject. bbs.zuwharrie.com/content?PHPSESSID=kji5pkfumht5l09q2l8kj5vtnja8bro8hufcb4jr4rtmu36blvhi6qg2q7kb67p6&board=12.0
There is no need for schematics. The regulator has + and - labels and in and out... So it is a soldering, adding fused protection, knowing how to put 1/4" connectors on wires properly and the knowledge and use of a DVM.... Read my comments below the video. Here is what I said, " This video is for information. I am not a manufacturer and will not produce this product. I am in hopes that the Vendors will press the Gauge MFG to fix the gauge. Or provide something similar to solve this issue. This gauge regulator applies to buses, Gia's, Beetles std and SB, Things that use the electronic gauge. Doing this project without knowing electronics and soldering is not recommended. Damage to your car could occur. Finalized wiring, showing protection devices for over current/voltage. I assembled the pico fuse package... .5 amps/500ma and installed the 7.5v 5watt zener diode for voltage output protection. I used very flexible wire with high strand count and a silicon based insulation. Caution: The voltage adjustment potentiomenter/screw is a 30 turn potentiometer Turing the screw 20 turns CCW will drop the output voltage into safe voltage to start adjusting! Bench adjustment should be done before installing... Set the output voltage for 6.4vdc. You can use a 9vdc battery for input voltage to set the output voltage. All buck regulators come from the factory set to high voltage output. Adjusting the voltage down to around 2-4 volts before adding the 7.5 volt 5 watt Zener diode is required, if you do not the zener and the regulator will fry. If you have already put the pico fuse on the fuse will blow protecting the Zener. The aftermarket gauges have 32-35 ohms... The set voltage of the Buck regulator seems to work best around 6.4vdc."..... Jim.
@@vwbeetlefuelgaugesystem which regulator did you use? I thought this was one you built. There are dozens but finding a good, easily adjusted one in a nice tight package is a bit more daunting.
@@TEDodd I went through a few renditions before I settled on this one. After getting it all working I used shrink tubing to cover the regulator. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WQJ2GD6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Are you a member of Zuwarrie Samurai forum? Lots of carb info there. Especially by my bud Zuk4x4. Will find you a link later if you need it. I should do another video about the MCVS and the accelerator pump valve.... Zuk4x4 and I did some really good stuff about how the emissions work and the ECM... No real videos but we learned how the system operates... Jim
@@vwbeetlefuelgaugesystem thanks for the tip! I haven’t been on that forum, so yes I would appreciate the link. I have lots manuals but I’m such a visual learner that I do better with videos. My old brain just doesn’t pick up things quickly like it did decades ago! As the saying goes, “one picture is worth a 1000 words.”
@@brucegolder8726 Bru, the thread my bud did currently is missing pictures. You will have to check the website periodically to see if the Moderator has fixed the issue. It has happened before... Here is the link, lots of information on this website. Note that there is a special section for Samurai's. bbs.zuwharrie.com/content?topic=133663.msg1316071
Oops... Here is 1 cm in inches 0.393701... VW owners are all over the world. The US is about the only country that uses the IMPERIAL measurement system, yard, foot and inches. For accurate measurements the metric is so much easier. As for driving I love the Imperial system! I can see 5,280 ft... but in metric... I am lost... hahahaaa.
It is in quite a few places. I got it from Thesamba years ago. The resistance readings are exact as you can see in my videos. The resistances of the gauge and sender have to be a matching set...All OEM elect VW gauges and senders all worked at those resistances. Buses included. www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/index.php?sid=71f3ea98cb54562d47efc82f51d228bb
Very good class on "caveat emptor". And now a new subscriber. At age 63 I have also learned that not all tools and parts are who they say they are. My wife and me are recent owners of a "71" Super that was an Arizona one family full body off restoration started in 2015. It now resides here in SC. The Bug is in very good condition in, out and under. But not without some issues due to let's say concealed fatigue. The dreaded scraping tunnel clutch tube bracket near the e-brake. That will be addressed later. To the point, I have a fuel gauge that will when cold moves appropriately to my estimate of a half tank of fuel. Then back to empty, then back to half, then empty again without moving ever again. My initial safari through the wires and fresh air box in my path to get to the sender spade connections shows to be good to ground. Admittedly no further resistance nor continuity tests have been done. So with a "waving" fuel gauge needle would you suspect that the regulator could make the gauge act in such a way? I may be premature in asking before completing the electrical analysis. Again thank you for your "shop teacher" style of instruction. It reminds me of my high school electronics teacher in how he would bring out actual hardware to show how devices operated and not just stand at the chalkboard.
Hi campion.... You did not say if you had a vibrator or a regulator device. That is not important at this time but would be if you are going to determine what is going on with your gauge. A quick test to see if the gauge and reg/vib is working but not a complete test. Have someone sitting it the drivers seat. Key off. Remove the sender wire off of the center lug of the sender... While holding the wire have your assistance turn the key on.... The gauge needle should not move!~ Cautiously connect that sender wire spade lug to the sender assembly, not the sender lug. The gauge should go to full! Quickly if you gauge has a vibrator and kinda slow if it is a regulator. Do not leave that wire touched to ground/frame/sender body more than 5 seconds if the needle swings quick to full... That would mean that you have a vibrator and that the gauge and vibrator is good. Leave it on maybe 10 seconds for the regulator type. If the needle swings nearly all the way in that 10 seconds then all is good there. If the needle performs as it should then the sender is most likely the issue. You can review my video to see which type of voltage regulation you have... Vibrator or regulator on my video here. If you have more questions just provide a reply... Jim ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-29I3oeVjWHI.html
The bottom adjustment is a fine tune adjustment. I have found it to be of no effect. Can I ask why you are going to adjust the gauge? Review this video and my comments. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HC8IK4Dcdqc.html
Haw, caught me with my pants down. After doing a couple of EMPi senders I was not happy with the short arm bending that I talked about in the video thus I deleted it and was going to do another. As time went by I was really busy re-designing the Vibrator/regulator... I did not like all the things that was needed to get the aftermarket gauge to work properly. The resistance of the AM gauges were not the same as OEM. While doing all the recent redesign of the regulator I installed the new regulator/buck type and a non-calibrated gauge in my 72... It works very good. I also made up 4 systems for guys to test. They sent me the parts, sender and gauge then I did the calibration to the sender and gauge if needed. I packaged up the system and sent it to them. The Mexico sender is the best of all the senders but it too might need a bit of full stop calibration. Empty not so much. Along with all of this I recently had to have bypass surgery and a heart valve replaced in my old 75 year old ticker...hahaha. I am just getting back to normal. 5 weeks. If you would like some help PM me at the samba vw forum. I am blue69baja on the forum.. Here is the buck regulator that I was working on. There are 5 of these installed in fellas Vw's and are being tested. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zFV0SEnfFH4.html
@@vwbeetlefuelgaugesystem many thanks B69B, hope the valve replacement went well and youre fully recovered and beeltin' round again. I thought I remembered a video where the LONG float arm was adjusted?? I had a look through your profile pic on samba and found a couple that are semi relevant but not what i think i neeed. my gauge goes from full to empty in approx 35miles and I figure its to do with needing to bend the long arm down ?? are you able to enlighten me any ? :)
@@jeremyraudys7230 Hi Jeremy.... I have been so busy with home projects I have not been able to revisit the EMPI sender arm bending project..... Probably be another couple of months.
@@jeremyraudys7230 You say your gauge goes from F to E in 35 miles.... That is not an arm bending issue. Even if the long arm were missing or the float came off the F to E would be about 6 gallons of gas used! The long arm controls the short arm from about 1/2 tank to empty. So what is your problem? It sounds like the sender is not reading right because it is not sending the correct resistance to the gauge.... If you remove the sender and can move the short arm around and watch the gauge you should see that the gauge is not reading correctly.
@@jeremyraudys7230 I am writing these replies in different replies because things get confusing. Is your gauge aftermarket or OEM? Is your vibrator OEM or do you have the plastic/metal type that is a regulator. ? If you would like more help got to the samba and send me a PM... I am blue69baja... Jim
Thanks for the video. I’m trying to learn as much as I can about the beetle fuel gauge system. My gauge broke a couple weeks ago and It gave me an uneasy feeling. It’s fixed now but I want to learn as much as I can. Your video taught me a lot thanks.
Thanks for this video. Your video is amazing. Getting to see first hand how all this works inside the tank in relation to the reading on the fuel gauge. My fuel gauge quit working a couple weeks ago and lol that bothered me to know end. I fixed it yesterday, but I’m still looking at as many video on RU-vid as I can to learn what I can for the next time. Thanks again! 76 black convertible with 1776 mofoco single weber 32/36.
@@vwbeetlefuelgaugesystem Fuel gauge started to read empty. I joined together the two fuel sender wires and fuel gauge read full. Put new sender in the tank. Filled the tank and the gauge read 1/2 tank. Then I pulled the speedo and put on a new vibrator from Jbugs and the gauge went to 7/8. I haven’t drove the car enough to know how the gauge works through to empty.
@@scottwrite633 Well run it and see what happens down to the 1/4 tank or so... Do you have a dvm to read the resistances? <>33 ohms from the sender with the center wire disconnected. R would be around 47 ohms.
@@vwbeetlefuelgaugesystem I have a dvm and will check it when it gets down to 1/4 or so. I have two wires on the sender. A yellow and a brown.... I should unplug the yellow wire and test ohms across the two sender prongs???
Thanks for the video. I bought a new dansk sender, but I will try your instructions on the old sender to see if I can get it to work and keep it as a spare.
Yep clean it up and then use a DVM and measure the ohms empty and full and move it slowly up and down and see if it is stable resistance wise. Using a DVM on ohms scale use the 200 ohms scale.
Thank you for this video. My new dansk sender didn’t turn all the way to the forward position either. With a full tank of gas the gauge said half. I took the old vdo voltage stabilizer off and put a new China stabilizer on it, now it almost says full 👍.
Thank you for the video. I removed my gas tank to repair a leak, I had to flip it upside down without removing the sending unit. I fixed the leak, it was a small crack at the bottom of the gas tank, however now the sending unit is not working right, it was before the repair. I am going to remove the sending unit and see what's going on.
This is odd. While standing in front of the car, I insert the sender with the floats aimed at 4 o’clock, press down and turn until the unit won’t turn anymore-which places the floats at 6 o’clock. Wah-la. I’m done, and the long arm of the sender doesn’t gang up on anything inside the tank. However, I have a VDO sender. Perhaps that makes a difference in figment.
Is your VW a Super Beetle? The SB is the only one that has an issue of the long arm hanging. If you have a true VDO sender there is no problem. You can fully lock the sender all the way CW... The issue is only with EMPI and Classic line by JP Power Groups. There is a sender avail that is made in Mexico. It will not cause the long arm to hang either. As a note, you can not hear or feel if the long arm float is dragging on the baffles in the Super Beetle tank