I'm Anthony Dinuzzo, I live in Rockford Illinois. I went to college multiple times for automotive and high-performance specialized technology. I tune cars mostly imports like Hondas and Miata's, Sometimes the occasional 2JZ and VW. At heart I'm a Honda person I grew up with Hondas my first car was a Crx and my 2nd car was a Crx. My first 4 vehicles were EF chassis Hondas. I also have a degree for Motorsports chassis fabrication, and you will see the occasional tig welding on here and my Instagram. Welcome to Tuned by Tony also Known as DinuzzoTuning. enjoy and make sure to hit Thumbs up on the videos to get us in the Algorithm. Thank you.
Brother props to you man you inspire me I also have a Ek sedan and 2kids I use it as a family car too! Great content I really hope you blow Your a great guy !
First time here and I want to turbo my daily 1.6, something little just 11psi, 180whp pump gas. I want a hood dump very bad but its my daily and I dont want cops to pull me over everywhere. I dont know what to do lol. My minds telling me no, but my body is telling YES!!! Sound is not a problem, I daily it with a straight pipe rn, just worried about cops , fumes, and rain.
@@TunedbyTony yeah I looked more into it and was in the passenger of a straight piped miata and that was too loud so dont wanna think about how loud a hood dump would be + cop attention and everything else that comes with it. Saving up for a kraken top mount with full 3 inch
@nyaata41 if your not doing anything illegal 🤷♂️ I wouldn't worry so much about the cops. It's loud while your in the car and driving it but unless your right next to a cop he probably isn't going to hear it. It's pointed to the sky so the sound is going up.
@@AndToTheRepublic4WhichItStands this setup lasted just fine for years daily driven. Even drove the car from Florida to Illinois as well. This car is kswap turbo now. But never had an issue with the b series setup.
@@TunedbyTony I still would never trust a cheap eBay turbo on my b series. B b series stuff is getting way to expensive and hard to find for me to feel comfortable slapping a cheap china turbo on if someone would make a post turbo filter to stop any metal shavings from making their way into the engine id consider it. I love budget builds just not on parts that can destroy the entire build.
Keep it up i can see this channel going far! Only criticism is try to get more people on who have as much energy and physical enthusiasm as you and you could actually do this youtube thing for sure🔥🔥
@@TunedbyTonyyeah man your doing great your whole vibe is exactly what youtube looks for trust me brother, my best advice like i said i know its hard but try to find a team of people who have similar energy and can become familiar faces to the viewers, but obviously take your time i know things like that are easier said than done just food for thought!
Thanks again for your knowledge bro. I had two widebands that the s300 wouldnt read... Like others said, i never realised i needed ground on both the black and brown wires. Works flawlessly now, and with ZERO voltage offset!
Whats sup bro, this will be a long comment. I apologize in advance. Would you ever consider doing a full tune tutorial video? I just recently started tuning my own honda project with HTS ive gotten to run the way i want. It runs 14.5 ish steady cruise with fluctuations to 13.8- 13.0 and full load is 12.5 to 11.7 at 11.7 lbs of boost.. its a 95 accord with f23a1 bottom end and f22a1 head. Fully stock besides a re-ring due to excessive smoke during initial start of engine being put together. Npr piston rings a a fresh hone. The car doesnt smoke not one bit or consume anymore oil, but i only ask for you to do this is because, ive done countless research..and im under the impression my fuel table curves should not be choppy or have jagged points.. ive done interpolate a bunch, but it seems when i do use that function, my fuel tables will not be where i want them.. my 14.7 areas i set end up being rich or lean.. ive been getting better, ive interpolated areas around the area that is perfect . But this sometimes translates to a rough looking fuel table.. idk but it would help me tons if you can explain or show in a video on how you get your maps looking good
I am interested in doing this for the community. I'm waiting for the channel to kind of take off before i put something like that out. I'm still pretty low on subscribers only around 500. maybe around the 2k mark it would make sense for me to give out this information. otherwise. understand. the stuff I know I paid a lot of money to learn and put in a lot of time.
When looking at your fuel table I noticed that you're negative 20s and such start all the way to the left. As I feel it should be. For some reason on my tuning table it shows -1 all the way to the left and then -22 just before the changeover to .4 lb What did I do wrong. ?
@@TunedbyTony appreciate it that shit's been driving me crazy. And I currently have my white wire for my UEGO x ran into the ELD d10 pin with r136 and r138 both cut and I'm not getting an AFR signal I had it on d14 previously and was working okay but couldn't see the full range of voltage. I guess I'll switch it back to d14 later.
I have an innovate wideband. Range is 0v=7.35 , 5v=22.39 . How would i input the voltage in the table? Do i put the 5v value at the last cell? Since it can only rear to 3ish volts, do i put "3v" in the middle cell? Thanks.
If your using a wideband that uses the same sensor. a Bosch LSU 4.9 You use the same values. The values are not specific to the AEM gauge they are specific to the O2 sensor itself.
If I’m not running Hondata yet but have the SST chip, on N/A setup, can I still run the wideband thru the ecu without going in and changing the parameters in the ecu or will I run like crap until I get a tune done? Planning on Hondata and turbo very soon.
Grounding to either D21 or 22 (logic ground) will cause a major voltage offset. I've got best results from grounding directly to the thermostat housing.
I mean I’ve done this on every car I’ve tuned and I have about a -.7 voltage offset which isn’t a big deal, I suggest this to give a solid ground where all the wiring can be in 1 place. But the thermostat ground is perfectly functional useable for this as well. Thanks for your comment
@@TunedbyTony🙏🏽 no doubt. I've wired a few in the way you do it here in the video, I was recently advised by a long time tuner that you def don't want to run more than 0.9v(+/-) offset, 0.7 is close, I redid the wiring just today on my integra with the ground at the thermostat, and my offset is now 0.02
@@freeman8000 the reason I don’t suggest using the thermostat ground a solid answer is simple. It’s a 12v ground, and really it doesn’t matter if you run a 3 volt offset as long as you calibrate it right it really doesn’t matter. Keep in mind it’s a 5v signal so putting it on the main ground for the Ecu s wel as all other 12v systems doesn’t make a lot of sense to me. A Logic ground on paper makes more sense to me which is why we use that as well as in most cases it’s independent to itself.
Actually in cases where there is no ground on the pin the offset is typically 0 it’s only when there’s already a ground in there and it’s shared that I have to run an offset
Great video. I'm having a minor issue. Everything is wired up and on my smanager in closed loop tab I can't get my wideband input source to drop down to select d14o2. I'm unable to change anything on the closed loop tab.
@Dinuzzokek he hey can you get my email from me or message me on here man I have a k24 ek sedan and I'm having problems with it breaking axels on the passenger side.
EDIT : I looked up a pinout for the obd2a ECU for my car, and both wires are indeed sensor grounds. Thanks a lot for this video! I have a 99 Integra with a p28 via a jumper harness. From the jumper harness to the car, d21 is going to a GRN/WHT wire and d22 is going to a GRN/BLU wire. Does this still apply to me? If so, do you know which wire I should use? Thanks for any information
