Thanks again for your knowledge bro. I had two widebands that the s300 wouldnt read... Like others said, i never realised i needed ground on both the black and brown wires. Works flawlessly now, and with ZERO voltage offset!
@@TunedbyTony I'm tunning my car for the first time, it's a D16Y8, I have the idle set really nice but I'm struggling a little with everything else haha
@@TunedbyTony I have a d16y8 with an OBD2B to OBD1 jumper harness, my understanding is it uses A, B , and C not D. Is there a difference in wiring or am I looking at it the wrong way? I have an AEM 30-0300 on the way. TIA!
Grounding to either D21 or 22 (logic ground) will cause a major voltage offset. I've got best results from grounding directly to the thermostat housing.
I mean I’ve done this on every car I’ve tuned and I have about a -.7 voltage offset which isn’t a big deal, I suggest this to give a solid ground where all the wiring can be in 1 place. But the thermostat ground is perfectly functional useable for this as well. Thanks for your comment
@@TunedbyTony🙏🏽 no doubt. I've wired a few in the way you do it here in the video, I was recently advised by a long time tuner that you def don't want to run more than 0.9v(+/-) offset, 0.7 is close, I redid the wiring just today on my integra with the ground at the thermostat, and my offset is now 0.02
@@freeman8000 the reason I don’t suggest using the thermostat ground a solid answer is simple. It’s a 12v ground, and really it doesn’t matter if you run a 3 volt offset as long as you calibrate it right it really doesn’t matter. Keep in mind it’s a 5v signal so putting it on the main ground for the Ecu s wel as all other 12v systems doesn’t make a lot of sense to me. A Logic ground on paper makes more sense to me which is why we use that as well as in most cases it’s independent to itself.
Actually in cases where there is no ground on the pin the offset is typically 0 it’s only when there’s already a ground in there and it’s shared that I have to run an offset
Great video. I'm having a minor issue. Everything is wired up and on my smanager in closed loop tab I can't get my wideband input source to drop down to select d14o2. I'm unable to change anything on the closed loop tab.
I have an innovate wideband. Range is 0v=7.35 , 5v=22.39 . How would i input the voltage in the table? Do i put the 5v value at the last cell? Since it can only rear to 3ish volts, do i put "3v" in the middle cell? Thanks.
If your using a wideband that uses the same sensor. a Bosch LSU 4.9 You use the same values. The values are not specific to the AEM gauge they are specific to the O2 sensor itself.
If I’m not running Hondata yet but have the SST chip, on N/A setup, can I still run the wideband thru the ecu without going in and changing the parameters in the ecu or will I run like crap until I get a tune done? Planning on Hondata and turbo very soon.
When looking at your fuel table I noticed that you're negative 20s and such start all the way to the left. As I feel it should be. For some reason on my tuning table it shows -1 all the way to the left and then -22 just before the changeover to .4 lb What did I do wrong. ?
@@TunedbyTony appreciate it that shit's been driving me crazy. And I currently have my white wire for my UEGO x ran into the ELD d10 pin with r136 and r138 both cut and I'm not getting an AFR signal I had it on d14 previously and was working okay but couldn't see the full range of voltage. I guess I'll switch it back to d14 later.
Hey man I just came across your video is fantastic. I know I can be straight forward with you to say I want to learn how to tune a car using s300. How much would you charge me to teach me the fundamentals. I'm desperate in my town the tuners suck. I realy wanna learn so if you would find it in your heart to teach me I would appreciate it immensely.
I went to school to learn, also just buying the cars and learning on them helps in its own way. Stay tuned and sometime in the future I will do more tuning oriented guides. I’d like to be around 1,000 subscribers before I start doing those.
@@manuelmunos5674 don’t focus on Hondata specifically, just take classes online with a place like HP academy and learn what engines need to run good , you can use any software to complete your goal
@@TunedbyTony okay thanks, sounds like is going to be a journey. I will hit up HP and start taking there clases, but hey I'm a subscrive and will be liking every video you post.👍
Hey dude just saw this video and definitely has been asking a few questions as I saw other people using the X-Line (hondata website etc) and they were able to make it work via the D10 (white wire) without the brown wire and of course removing the R136 and R138 resistors..... though me doing this myself... I'm not having much luck... Any input on this before I do as you've done? Perhaps i'm thinking if I also did the brown to the D21 or D22 and leave the white as is it might fix my issue... hmm Cheers love from Australia.
@@TunedbyTony yeah sweet mate, thanks for confirming... Thought it was the case after seeing what it did... And glad you answered the placement of the analog ground with either d21 or d22 :) Cheers
EDIT : I looked up a pinout for the obd2a ECU for my car, and both wires are indeed sensor grounds. Thanks a lot for this video! I have a 99 Integra with a p28 via a jumper harness. From the jumper harness to the car, d21 is going to a GRN/WHT wire and d22 is going to a GRN/BLU wire. Does this still apply to me? If so, do you know which wire I should use? Thanks for any information
Hey Dinuzzokek, I borrowed an aem x-series wideband from my cousin's Miata. Let's say after I tuned my b20v civic, can I put the original O2 sensor back in or could I just plug the O2 bung and run without O2 sensor? What settings do I need to change in the S300v3 if I run with/without O2 sensor? Thanks a bunch for this video on how to wire it.
You can surely just borrow the wideband to tune the vehicle, just tune it in open loop then give your cousin his wideband back. The significance of this video is to show people how to connect the AEM wideband to the ECU when it’s permanently installed into the vehicle, to take advantage of closed loop operation while using a wideband.
@@bradleyhorn2316 you can use D10 after cutting them, using this same method just choose the D10 option instead of D14, that’s only difference in the setup in the software.
@@jritefrom56 would probably work and function. But since I consider the ecu and the connection to be sensitive to voltage drop, I’d prefer it to be dedicated to the signal ground for maximum reduction of electrical noise.
@@jritefrom56 For example, Honda engineers already integrated a multiple ground connection at the thermostat housing, so I trust that and I’ll wire common grounds to the thermostat housing ground wire, near the ecu connection.
