Looks like you have a different exhaust then in previous videos. Is this just footage before the new exhaust? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BvLXV4DeUkI.htmlsi=nHqcfem22vsBESia
After a little bit of thought, I realized that the 830 was in the film when the dovetail was put on the trailer. So this has to be a new exhaust. So why did you replace the nice chrome exhaust with the shaky one? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PqYMkit7Wq8.htmlsi=I_0LbXejDNXRKzmI
Yeah! Dad has two exhausts. One is the chrome straight pipe and then he also has this muffler. He put the muffler on (which is actually topped with a chunk of chrome he cut off the straight pipe) because it's much quieter. The chrome straight pipe is so loud you need hearing protection.
The plow won't pull straight if it doesn't have a solid furrow wall for the landsides to run against but it won't go through the hardpan. I can see the left wheel bouncing along not carrying weight like it would if the plow could get down deeper. Watch Everything Moldboard Plows, he does a very good job explaining the physics and nuts and bolts of plowing.
Hi, I have an 830 also. I had used the same muffler clamp ( u-bolt ) changed back to the original strap type and doesn,t leak exhaust then and the muffler won,t wiggle either. I think the strap type is 3/4" X 1/8" flat iron. Its making a mess of your new paint as it did on mine. Hard to clean it up again!
I saw your short on this. Yes, its getting right down in the ground and the plow is barely working the tractor. You may plow up some Idaho potatoes with that team. Really looks good once you got it dialed in.
Is the "R" pulling a 4-14 or 4-16? I have heard they can pull 4 to 5 bottom but not sure if that means a 14 if you go to a 5 bottom plow. Our dirt here in central Illinois can be sandy, clay or nice rich black soil so I know I must make considerations for each.
I agree with your final summary. 1. Start Pony engine and let it warm up for 30 seconds to a minute. 2. Pull decompression to the diesel. 3. Pull lever to engage pony engine to the diesel. 4. Release the decompression lever. 5. Let it turn over under compression from 1 to 3 minutes depending on outside temp. (Remember Wind Chill is not important only ambient temp is) 6. Open up diesel throttle about halfway and it should fire off immediately.
I had a "46" B Long Hood with the electric start and lights back in the late 80's I fully restored to showroom condition. I pulled a 2-16 plow with is and it kept up with the best of them. Great little tractors. I just bought a 1952 "R" I am going thru to have fun with.
Is that a crankcase ventilator pipe type thing on the right side of the R, and did you add that to the R, pretty impressive pulling power. I’m working on a 1949 R and mine does not have the breather type thing.
@@gradientgamer5480 that was in the winter... It was very cold outside. But you're right... I probably should have cracked the windows and opened the door.
😊😊 most of the oliver tractors were made that way they have a low and a high side most people used the high side 4 on the road or 4 field work and that john deere tractor and a lot of other diesel tractors back then they were pre glow plug 🔌😊 OMG 9 23 2O24
😊😊 that the 1ST dis IVE seen W out a cap or button and I heard the 1 in the background is very talk of tive is that from dad or mom or just a kid sonds like a about 3 years old 😊😊 OMG 9 23 2O24
What you saw is all I know. That little engine is probably just an ornament now. Sitting on the coast of Hawaii all those years is not kind to equipment, from a corrosion standpoint.
The transmission top on the H is from a 1939. It also has the tall oil filter like the early ones. Might check some other date codes to see if it's actually a '39. Wouldn't be totally out of the question to have had the bell housing/serial tag changed at some point.
