Id be doing the same as you getting shot of that cbs. Congrats on going against the grain. Also the rear can come round on you brakinghard on the front into a turn, eg on a track!
forgive me for asking but where is the video of you de=linking the brakes instead of talking about it without showing how its done and the kit we need to do it ???
You are forgiven😜…there is no delink video as I didn’t delink the standard system, I actually replaced it. I explained the rational behind doing so and the components I used.
@@HORNET6 the bike rides fine just chain getting abit slack so thought I would tighten it up, undid retaining bolt and tried to move it but tension won't change and doesn't seem to be able to move atall 🤔
Lot of incorrect info ... chain is adjusted way too tight from camera angle in vid, chain adjustment should always be done with bike on its tyres to pre-load the suspension, ideally someone of comparable weight as rider to be seated on bike while chain is slack adjusted, or it will be too tight, hence the danger factor of a bike falling over, no manufacturer would suggest to do this task as stated above, hence they give an approx slack measurement to be adjusted on centre stand for safety, which is in fact too tight for most rider weights.
Agreed, always lube all suspension bolts, I'm a grease fan, but your comment of fretting is wrong ... once the bolt is torqued up, the bush & bolt in effect become one, bolt doesn't rotate within the bush while in use, it's the bush that rotate within the needle bearings only.
The bush is free to turn around the bolt and evidence of fretting I’ve seen, having done this work to many bikes with plenty of miles on, tells me this.
I’ve had 2 gen5 Vfrs, enjoyed them both but finally sold one. I had the problem with the rear caliper locking up, took it apart, found some water droplets in the center cylinder and replaces all seals. After a complete bleeding of the whole system, brakes appear to be working fine but I’m curious about some of the “no longer available” parts. I know that if the return orifice in the master/secondary cylinder gets plugged it’ll cause the caliper to lock up- happened to an BMW RT I use to have. I’m going to go through your series on delinking and think about it. The Vfr doesn’t get ridden much but being the last of the good ones, I’ll probably keep it. These days I’ve been riding a Tiger 800 which is almost as good! Thanks for the series.
Hello and thank you for your comments. De-link is probably a misnomer as I completely removed the linked system completely! I encourage you to watch them all and welcome your feedback/questions should you have any 👍
Here bc my '98 is exhibiting the 'rear brake drags due to center piston after bleeding' and it's 2022 and parts no longer reasonably found :| Please Do reply if there's a thing I should try before I delink! ~I read manual says 'don't disassemble the SMC!' - but. that's where internet says my problem surely is... willing t give something a go before I start. Cheers! 98 VFR800in Hawaii
Hello Hawaii! Couple of things first… SMC? I am being lazy and not looking at my manuals. ‘internet says’ be careful who you listen to. Have you bled the system properly, including the sequence and lifting the front left caliper. Don’t shy away from removing the rear caliper, stripping it and looking at replacing seals.
I own a 5th Gen VFR from 2001, and you are absolutely right about the rectifier/regulator issues. Mine failed for 2 times, each of them I replaced with the stock one... It was a matter of time until it failed again. Money thrown out the window. Managed to read more on this and replaced it with an Aftermarket MOSFET one, doing the cable changes needed. This one has been working flawlessly for the last 6 years with no issues. Other than that, I absolutely love this bike! In my opinion, one of the best bikes Honda has engineered and produced!
one from a yamaha r1 2006 onwards model- solder the 3 yellow wires and send the RR wires directly to the battery, with a 30amp fuse on the positive fed.
Another how "NOT TO" adjust a VFR800 chain slack ... you're way off bud, VFR800 is a heavy beasty, never set chain slack with wheels off the ground, it'll be way way too tight when loaded with bike & rider weight ... If you got this process from a Honda manual, it's incorrect, all manuals have errors, found dozens of em, I'm a Honda Master Tech of 35yrs & deal with technical data every day, even the mighty HRC can't get it right every time, there's a translation issue at work here too, I suspect this is how many errors get interpreted incorrectly & inputted into training / service data.
I bow to your qualifications on the subject. But no need to shout eh? Just explain as you did later. I will say that it was checked by a friend when sat on board with feet up. It was fine but then I did have a Nitron shock fitted with 35mm of rider sag and not the saggy stock item. That probably helped. The adjustment technique is correct, it’s just the slack you’re questioning?
Just come across this video. Picking up a 2000 gen 5 VFR next week. Has 29k on it, £1795. Would u say that's a fair price?, Comes with 12 month MOT. Been off road in garage since 2016. So will prob need all fluids.
Can you imagine the millions Honda invested in this wonderfully innovative sophisticated long needed safety system? Can you imagine the research and development involved? The experts inside and outside the company who trialled and refined this gorgeous mechanical solution to make bikes so much more accessible and safer? The worst mods that amateurs can do are those which affect braking and handling. You should put a disclaimer on your videos stating clearly that you have ZERO expertise in motorcycle braking technology, and ZERO expertise as a professional rider. You don't even explain why you take this rash decision to fart about with a motorcycle braking system that was the pinnacle of motorcycle engineering when it was manufactured. And don't keep deleting comments that aren't patting you on the back, maybe some other died in the wool pseudo rossis's will chip in and berate me
the linked brakes in the vfr are the only downfall of the bike, when riding a motorbike the front and rear brakes do drastically different things, so for safety, they should not be linked together
Tragic mod to this all time classic bike. Why why oh why oh why? This was Honda at it's finest before the accountants and EU Nazis made all bikes the same. I note my previous comments on this sacrilege were deleted, and If this comment goes the same way, hey Ho. But please please please explain YOUR rationale for messing about with the most fundamental safety feature on this masterpiece of a bike. And don't quote other traditionalists, tell us why YOU did this butchery and how you found the end result. Hopefully I don't get deleted again.
I didn’t delete your comments and of course you’re perfectly entitled to make them, pious and pompous though they are to me when using words such as butchery., tragic and sacrilege. Everything I did was carefully considered and executed to achieve a conventional and stock Honda looking bike. Many people have looked at it and not even realised the difference. Good yes, finest I think not. Reg/recs are a real Achilles heel as is the suspension and sheer weight of the thing. The finest to me are RC30, RC45, RC51, NC30 and the old racing sixes. I achieved a conventional braking system with more feel, comparable power and way easier to bleed and maintain. Less cluttered also. I’ve ridden and worked on bikes for 40 years. I’ve built my own race and track bikes and work in a friends Ducati dealership so I think I’ve earned the right to say I know what I’m about. I did something and shared it in the spirit of RU-vid. If you have an issue with that it’s your issue and not mine and quite frankly I don’t know why you’re getting yours knickers in a twist about a mass produced middle weight sports tourer.
The Barry sheen wannabes that butcher an incredibly well engineered system from Honda a beautiful package of a bike. If you're doing this to make yourself a track bike fine. If you ride on the road it's idiotic it's the best thing engineered pre abs and if you find it problematic you're riding like a nutter. Just sayin
Say what you like but you’re incorrect in all your assertions about me and have paid no attention as to the reasons why I made the changes. A butcher I am not and engineered with sound principles a conventional brake set up. The CBS is undoubtably good but can lack feel. Oh, it’s Sheene with an ‘e’.
I have just acquired a vfr800 5th gen and was pondering taking the brake system to normal, is it that much of a ball ache job? My bike is under reconstruction at the current time...September’21
Depends how mechanically competent you are and how interested you are in doing the work. It is an involved job requiring a fork strip, spacers made and a hose adapter kit for the rear caliper etc…
When I bought my VFR800 six years ago the gear change was appalling, when I checked the chain tension it was pretty much as you have it in the video. As time went on I slackened the chain a little at a time and found the gear changes got better. I find a movement closer to 30mm is best.
I kept the VFR's one connecting two direct lines to the caliper and... Actually it doesn't brake at all at the moment :-) . To me the bleeding procedure ended up right, but I'll try it again anyway. Why did you replace the master cil. ?
Hi, very good job. I'm gonna make the same on my 2003 Vtec and I'd like to ask you how did you close the connection ends on the lines that go from front to rear (if you did it). Thank you.
De-linking the brakes is something I would definitely do. Or not buy a linked brake bike in the first place. Linked brakes suck, I want full control. I like using my back brake when I choose. Linked brakes shouldn't even be a thing, imo.
Brutal Wang if they were unsafe then the bikes wouldn’t pass homologation. The CBS systems are not really intrusive and control nose diving when carrying a pillion, but a good rider knows to lead with the rear brake when carrying a passenger anyway. I actually didn’t de-link, I removed the system entirely only retaining the rear caliper which I re-hosed externally.
Holy click bait Batman! I don’t mean to sound like a jerk, but dude!, I just watched 1 1/2 vids and no delinking brakes. When are you going to shut the hell up and show the brake job? On to a different video!
Good Grief But rude and yes your ranting makes you sound like a jerk. I didn’t do much as delink as remove the linked braking system which is what I explained. Wouldn’t make good viewing anyway as you just drain, undo bolts and remove. Btw, you’re in a class of one with your complaining so I can live with that...I will change the title just for you.
That's far too tight buddy, that amount of slack would be correct when you are sat on the bike with both wheels on the ground, the Honda info is wrong on this.
Road Warrior heard that before but that takes another person to check and adjust while you’re sat on the bike...and with any more slack the gear change suffers...
Plant Based Paul thanks for your comments. I have moved the VFR on to a subscriber 👍 I am now the happy owner of a Speed Twin and Tenere 700, both of which I plan to introduce to the channel
I apply acf50 oil with a toothbrush after a quick clean with muck off chain cleaner. It has a scottoiler but Ive never set it up. Just do it little and often as you say and you wont go wrong.
I am not an expert but I have had motorcycles for 50 years. I believe that as the rear wheel rises and falls on the suspension via the swinging arm the arc that it describes keeps the the rear sprocket a constant distance from the front sprocket i.e. the chain does not alter tension as the wheel moves up/down with the suspension. I think this is a simple engineering principle but I cannot prove it
theRev martin that may be so with one centre of arc but there are two. Sprocket to sprocket and swing arm to sprocket, prescribing two different radii. There is also the vertical relationship between all three to factor in as well.
...it does tension up once the bike is on the ground and u apply weight to the back of the bike (rider)... wheel movement up and down ...due to the changing geometry of swingarm/ sprocket to sprocket...if the drive chain is too taught with no load it will cause untold damage when stressed.
Pedro Madeira Thanks! Brake lever? I think you mean caliper. Rather than external link hoses or drilling the stock caliper internally, I went for the neater solution. It wired really well and bleeding is so easy that you look forward to doing it!
@@HORNET6 thanks for answering but I'm meant brake lever. You have a different oil reservoir. So why did you do that? Its because of the double banjo of the brake line for the 2 front calipers?
@@pedromadeira7560 He has rc51 calipers so for them to work properly you would need the rc51 master cylinder due to the size of the piston inside the master cylinder being in correct proportion with the calipers. If one were too install rc51 calipers and keep the factory vfr master cylinder the front brakes would not perform correctly.
Yes! In fact I did that to this bike. All the pipework, wiring, solenoid, all gone. I used the housings as templates to make blanking plates and removed the valves also. Didn’t take long and really cleaned up the under tank area.
I honestly can't stand the linked braking as it causes issues and brakes weird. So I may be doing this RC51 front brake setup in the future. More powerful braking?
I won't trash you for drinking brakes, on the contrary I commend you!!! My opinion it this if you ride then it is you that should be riding not some electronic safety system. These" systems" not only take skills and responsibilities from the rider they prohibit said rider from excelling over time and going from a rider to a true motorcyclist. Abs, traction, and power settings should have never been put on bikes as they give a false sense of security and hamper development of a skill set that only comes over time. And still they crash WITH rider aids you need go no further than these newbies and their crash o rams videos on you tube.. Well keep the rubber down and never sell the VFR.
Garbage comment. This is an analogue mechanical solution. The last best engineered solution before microprocessors took over. You really have no idea with all due respect....
Road Warrior Hi, no it’s stainless by motad . Ti is dull and can go blue/purple in colour. Just a steel sprocket and stock gearing.. boring reply I know but it’s not a fancy race or track bike so no need to throw trinkets at it 👍
Road Warrior firstly, apologies for being slow to answer. In a word, no, but I’m handy with tools so it didn’t pose any problem to me. You could take the hoses off and plug the housings on the cam covers but I made blanking plates to be neat. Please ask if you need to know more
@@HORNET6 Thanks, would I be right in thinking that the 98-99 models are different from the 00-01 models, and don't have the pair system? (the 00-01 have HECS written on the fairing at the seat) edit All 5th gens have the pair system but removing it on the 98-99 bikes makes no difference as they don't have 02 sensors or cat converters.
Last time I took my 1997 RC36 to a garage for chain readjustment, the chap didn't touch the pinch bolt but loosened the axle nut instead. Would that do?
Youngturk don’t take it there again! Did he torque it back up to 202Nm? Do as I did here in the video, there’s no other method to adjust chain chain tension.
I didn't observe him use a torque spanner but to be fair that might have escaped my attention. But he definitely went for the axle nut. I reckon I shouldn't attempt to do it unless I have a torque spanner myself then. Many thanks for the valuable advice. Much appreciated.
Did you change the voltage regulator cause I'm looking at purchasing one and can't decide between a $50 and a $200 voltage regulator. Did you spend a lot on the one you used to replace the standard one?
Would the honda vfr750 rear braided hose line work as a replacement plus some small link on the vfr800 caliper? Or can you link me to a kit? I'm planning to use a honda cbr600 rear master cylinder I've brought. To use on my honda vfr800 1998.
