Hello, my name is Anthony! I am very passionate when it comes to automotive, motorcycles, and pretty much anything with an engine! I created this channel to share with you, the viewer, some of the work I do! Feel free to subscribe, and follow me on this journey of custom work and, hopefully soon, racing!
Ok I'm back.. the + wire that comes from the fuse box... That's just the "other side" of the alternator wire right? Could I just skip the whole fuse box, attach my own as if it were a sub, call it a day? Or will that mess w CE light maybe?
For anybody who's gotten to where you need to attach the alternator wire/lug but don't have a 90° lug like this feller- with a little elbow grease I was able to bend one of the pure/100%OFC lugs that came w the kit I have..... Ps thanks for this! Was having a massive brain fart and the diagrams that came w my ISO and big 3 upgrade don't show it. So yeah. Thanks!
This is totally unrealistic, usually what happens is that after you replace the thing, the noise is still there. Then you do two more fixes. Then the noise is still there. Then you refill windshield washer and the noise is gone. Then you drive 100km and the noise comes back. Three weeks later and you've convinced yourself the noise was always there.
Non serviceable ,?... no its not... Just knock the bearings out as normal...they have to get put in at the factory...so they will come out and then just slap it all back together 😅😅😅
Non serviceable u joints hmmm I have a miata and I replaced the u joint without replacing driveshaft might help if you know bearings and such and access to the right tools. Simple do every bit of research before claiming defeat. Most manufacturers say they are not serviceable but they are just have to put more effort into it.
@@outlawfarms3864 sure. Everything can be fixed. It’s a matter of having the right equipment and time. Emphasizes on time. For the cost of this driveshaft, it was better for me to replace it than to attempt to make a repair on something not designed for it
@@FloGarage every thing that you've bought unoriginal have cheapest asian bearings made with plasticine instead of metal. Next time if you want to do something good, do it by yourself. I'm sure that Google have some to show to you about "Miata driveshaft bearing replacement". NT, men, but this time you didn't get it. As focus on it, again, nice try. Thanks for your activity.
Your rear end housing should sit center of your notch when aired out. It looks as if either notch should go back or rear end housing. I may be tripping and it just looks like that on camera.
My Honda civic 2013 has completed 200K and It started giving scratching noise when I start the car in the morning. When consulted with a mechanic he suggested that every car need to replace belt after certain thousands of mileage. So it’s high time to replace it. But when I checked the belt from the top I don’t see any apparent wear tear in it. However it seemed a lost some tension. Now I want to make sure that I tight the belt in a proper way without damaging anything else. Any suggestion is appreciated. Thx
If you had a traditional three way speaker up front I think you’d be much happier than a 2-way (full range) driver in the dash. Totally get there are other two-way drivers in the doors too; but with a three-way and DSP tuning off the AudioControl you should be stylin’. Check out the Sony ES 3-ways. They are severely underpriced and I bet they’ll fit.
This is what I’m considering, it’s only 10mm narrower than my 265/75/R16 and honestly with 0 offset wheels they poke out past the fender a bit and throw shit. It looks nice, but pizza cutters, lift, SPC upper control arms I’m hoping a 255/85/R16 could be run without cutting anything at all? Also wish there were more 255/85/R16 options. No K02 or K03’s iirc.
Great video! I'm about to buy all the parts you listed. Is there anything you need to do the the AC compressor itself? Some of the forums seem to suggest that some parts of it need retrofitting. Also, do you have a link for the o-ring kit you used?
@@homer4163 all you need to do for the compressor is drain as much as the old fluid as possible (out of the ports). You can flip it around, spin the center of the pulley, and take some time to get it out. After that, add some PAG oil into the suction port. It’ll probably hold around 4oz. When you install the compressor onto the engine, spin the center of the pulley to move some of the oil through the lines so it’s easier for the compressor to start for the first time
@@user-hs9li8dg6d there are some things to overcome if you want to use r-12. It’s very expensive to get because it’s not legal. You will need some way to charge the system, like a machine or gauge manifold with a vacuum pump that is for r-12. It’s a lot of work and money to keep your system R12. If you have the Freon and equipment already, go for it. Make sure your system doesn’t leak though
270uF is way to high and basically is letting 150Hz up pass through at a 6dB roll-off... you should try a 47uF (less bass) or around a 68uF (more bass) and see if that improves the sound.
I have a 2012 honda civic lx sedan, when i pulled out the old trim most of the clips broke off and fell inside the door, but furthermore, when i installed the new trim the clips that came with it did not clip onto anything and the trim is very loose, when i raised the windows up the trim kept coming off from parts of it. Any tips before I glue the trim to the door. Thanks
Wow bud that explanation is so wrong. First off the fuse should be closer to the alternator. Second because the alternator is the supply the wire isn't protected from fuse to the alternator ( so shorter run from the alternator to the fuse ) Lastly I put it this way if you alternator wire has its own fuse factory then you would do that for your big 3 ether way your put loom/tesa tape/heat shrink on all wires on the outside of cab. You always leave the factory on for many reasons, short explanation the added wires just give you a easier and faster flow of maximum amps/ voltage. ( the big 3 is the alternator + to battery + motor ground to chassis and battery ground to chassis...... the 4th is the alternator ground to the battery. If you don't know what that is then you shouldn't be doing this! ( it's the mounting bracket bolt for the alternator).
Great build video. FYI I also used the Kicker KS with tweeters built in different vehicle. They are awful but the component version are dope. Not sure what up but imaging is night and day.
First, your way of checking clearance is the best so far on RU-vid. I had a question tho, why cut so high on the plastic? I want to do the same, get as much clearance that does t rely on a lift. Thanks! 🤙🏼
The only reason I cut so high is because the mounting clips are there. I didn’t want part of liner hanging down and possibly get blown around by driving on the freeway
