Are you still able to get the factory BMW menu on this new screen? For example the BMW settings menu that you access through the middle display on the original equipment?
This really helped me a lot. It has worked for me for about a year. I don't know if anyone has experienced this: RoadTop works just find but if I 1) hold down the menu button to switch to the native iDrive display or 2) just get into the car without my phone at all, the screen just stays black. I've tried rebooting the iDrive system by holding the power/volume knob for 30 seconds; it sounds like its rebooting because I can hear fuzz through the speakers at approx 30 sec mark but screen always stays black and no ability to use the iDrive system. Anyone else?
I have a i3 2019 I am confident that the idrive system is nbt evo id6 and my screen inside the car at front is 10 inchs. what do you recommend to buy for an imi unit that can just be installed under the seat and not at the front like you have done ? does it all work ok like the car microphone on the steering wheel?
Just did this fix and ten top part still seems too weak because after it pushes the belt out, the belt slips halfway through the path. Any advice? Thanks
on '17 i3, with 6.5" screen, i installed 10.25" screen and the road top unit per this guideline in the back. everything works. thanks for the guide. it helped me save a ton of hassle. FYI, i had to upgrade the screen first (and update the setting with bimmercode BEFORE plugging in the road top unit). one of the iphones is connected but no sound comes through on phone calls. any idea?
Question about the USB port. I don't understand what benefit the USB confers? What could it be used for? If it was going to be used, I could see how having it in a glove box might be more accessible but otherwise, can it just be left under the seat or is it needed for diagnostics or something?
This is brilliant! I got a short cable in my kit and was gonna have to wait on a longer replacement. But this is such a better way to run it anyway & makes so much more sense. Thanks mate.
THANK YOU! This makes me SO happy! I have an early 2018 i3 REX that was made just before they added CarPlay. Like many here, I was wondering why we had to run cables along the track when they had already run several cables there. I put the Car Play unit in the well behind the head unit and then shoved all of the power cable in between the two to keep it tight and prevent rattling. For now I have the USB in the same place, but I think I will check out the space where the cables are running from the back to the front under the middle console to see if there's a spot where I can bring it forward. Also, like some others here, I also turned it back on and got nothing. At first I thought maybe mine was like those who had problems, but I tried again and found that I hadn't properly seated the power cable into the head unit. I also re-seated the power cable connection on the Y just to be sure. When I tried it again, it started right up! I should also say that what I expected to take over an hour took me only 15 minutes outside in the dark with just my iPhone as a flashlight. The only tool I needed was a #10 ratchet to remove and then tighten the battery cable. SO much easier! Thanks again for the inspiration. Next, I've GOT to upgrade that tiny display (and then reset the DINS on the carplay unit).
Thank you so much for this - I was wondering why I had to run the harness to the front when BMW had already run the LDVS cable. Under the seat is much neater!
this may work for some models, but It's not going to work universally. The issue is that the LVDS signal (which carries the FPD-Link video signal for the display) is very sensitive to voltage distortions over the distance between the NBT unit in the back and the display up front. BMW don't have to worry about this because they use a more direct run straight down the middle of the car and up to the display, and the chip the use for LVDS in the NBT unit is of high quality. The add-on unit, however, has a lower signal output strength and doesn't handle the longer run as well - causing issues with the display not working when the box is under the back seat. Frustrating, but that's why they suggest putting the box up front: It just works better.
So you did not have to move any panels to make this work? Just under the seat and iser the wire going from the headunit to the screen?Where did you place the wifi-antenna?
Yes, no panels have to be removed. I noticed that there was an original antenna connected to the back of the seat area, so I put the WIFI antenna on the opposite side in about the same place. It works just fine.
So i just tried this on my i3, but cant get into the MMI menu. The screen says “no signal” when i hold the menu button down for 3 seconds. Sent an email to bimmer-tech. Lets see what they say.
@@Censer_Beaux yes, turns out the video cables arent exactly the same. I had to install the bimmer-tech suggested way. Took me two hours, but everything works perfectly now.
@@Censer_Beaux I had the same problem, this guide helped me after hours of troubleshooting. www.chargeaholic.com/home/retrofitting-carplay-or-android-auto-in-a-bmw-i3
Hi, just FYI my i3 came with the larger screen so this guide did not work for me. It took me a little while to figure out that I'll need to install it the recommended way. I followed this guide www.chargeaholic.com/home/retrofitting-carplay-or-android-auto-in-a-bmw-i3
@@kwlsecurity kenneth - the one shown here has a big screen as well? what's the difference? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4sUPUbr0WAM.html
I tried the above and sadly it didn't work... no logic as to why not. But fitted it in less than an hour. There are a couple of shortcuts ... use a cable tie to route the wire up past the front footwell panel;, saves removing it and also get a string or something similar an the pink cable from the screen before pulling it through, helps to pull it back!
I purchased the same kit from Amazon in the hope that I could install it as you have, unfortunately as most people report it would not work for me, the dreaded red "NO SIGNAL" was shown on the display. I really didn't want to start ripping my car apart but I can report that it is minimally invasive to install in the front as intended and IT WORKS!. I only had to remove: - Rear seat obviously - Sill trim (no tools required, just a stern pull from the far side) - Screw at top of panel next to left foot in passenger footwell (you don't need to remove the panel, simply push the wire under the plastic to allow it to go under dashboard) - The plastic panel under the fuse box (2 torx screws) - The glovebox (just six torx screws located under plugs, 3 at front, 3 at rear). You don't need to move the vent panel to the side of the glove box, just pull the glovebox up and slightly to the right to clear the Lip (RHD car). There are two electrical connections, just remove the one to the light, you can leave the one on the little gas strut, simply orient the glove box so it can be placed down on the dash. - Lastly, the screen (two torx screws located at the top of the screen under plugs). I tied a string to the BMW display cable and pulled it under the dash from the monitor conduit and then used the string to pull the supplied LVDS cable from under the dash to the monitor. I mounted the new Carplay unit to the area against the dash in front of where the glovebox sits when replaced, securing cables with cable ties and velcro fixing the actual unit. The whole process took an hour maximum, I could take the unit out in half an hour if I so wished, it really is easy, don't be put off. I can only assume that the Carplay unit is unable to provide a sufficient signal over the long cable and hence needs to be placed at the front where it takes the signal from the BMW factory LVDS cable on the IN port and passes on the short supplied cable from the out of the Carplay box to the monitor. Hope this may help some of you.
Francis Woolbury - I can only comment on the road top kit as that is the one I have but the piggy back harness they supply is more than adequate to reach the glove box routing along the passenger side sill gully.
Can anyone else confirm this works before I rip the car apart? I have the same model, same manufacture year as the video but I get no signal as well with the backseat method. I don’t want to be ripping the car apart if it still wont work for some reason…
Have you tried it with only the spring removed? It should work. I advise adhering the metal piece to the frame to prevent possible obstruction in the future.
HugLife out of interest, have you found out how to “re-enter” CarPlay once you hit “exit” eg to change radio stations/some other setting on BMW main screen? Only way I’ve found is to restart the car, which you can’t do when driving!
@@ilikebackrubs Thank you so much! Really helpful. I tried to do the screen upgrade and ran into a bit of trouble - could I PM you for some help pls? Thanks!
Ordered the exact same kit as Hugh for our ‘67 i3 and cable supplied in box was 90° off fitting in rear head unit. It won’t sit next to other cables as wire travels in wrong direction. Anyone else had this?
Having tried this myself and looking at others' reports, whether or not this works -- at least with the RoadTop unit -- seems to come down to the original NBT vs. newer NBT EVO unit. See here to determine which you have: bmw-icom-a2-wifi.blogspot.com/2016/09/bmw-nbt-coding-evo-hu-pinout-for-enet-cable.html This method does not seem to work, at least not universally, with the earlier NBT. For that unit, the CarPlay box has to be connected up front, inside the dash. As far as I can tell, the transition from NBT to NBT EVO occured during the 2017 model year and may have been country-specific.
Kennedy, do you know why the old NBT units doesn’t seems to work, I’ve just installed in the back, saying no signal, however the iDrive is still working
@@thomasherskindolesen4237, That's the exact problem I encountered. I never found a conclusive explanation. One user suggested it was because the cable wasn't "bidirectional," but that didn't make sense to me (at least, not the way it was written). Eventually, I just ran the cable all the way to the front, everything worked, so I simply stopped worrying about it. (I know, more lazy, less techie than maybe I ought to be...)
That's awesome! I have been thinking of giving this a go for my New Zealand-based Japanese import RHD 2015 i3 (BEV only non-Rex) but I was put off by all of the dismantling of the front end and trim. This looks so straightforward in comparison, I don't understand why everyone wouldn't go down this route. Thanks for sharing.
That’s so awesome!! 1. Is that stock reverse camera? 2. So all you do is fiddle in the back seat? No need to move anything in the screen, the glove compartment nor the side trim pieces? THAT IS BRILLIANT
You're the only person I know why can install the main unit in the backbench and not the grovebox, would you mind sharing a detailed photo of the included cable? my email address is gavinho007@gmail.com