This channel is focused on the build-out of a 2021 Toyota 4Runner TRD Off-Road. This vehicle was purchased new with the intention of creating a capable off-roading rig. Over time you'll see what and how I install, what I like and keep, what I dislike and change, . Be sure to subscribe, and click the notifications bell to ensure you see each video showing the transformation from stock to off-road ready.
I went the route of installing about a 2" lift (maybe 2.5), I stayed with the stock TRD Pro wheels (+4 offset, no spacers) and installed 255/80R17 tires (33.1" pizza cutters). The TRD Pro already comes in with 9.5" of ground clearance. So, with this setup, there's no BMC or fender well mods required, and my steering rack and drivetrain are still happy and well within their abilities and specs, thus minimizing failures. With this setup, my experience has been that I can go pretty much anywhere a Jeep on 35s will go. Full armor underneath is icing on the cake.
I mostly agree, other than the fact a 35” tire moves your rear dif a full 1” higher off the ground than 33’s. If you are in rocks, that 1” makes a huge difference. On a dirt trail, not so much. 🙌
Best way to verify is to look at your panhard with your rig on flat ground. If the panhard sits at an angle, rather than flat, you could likely benefit from the correction bracket.
Falken Wildpeak RT01’s in 35x11.5 load C on a 17x9” -12 wheel. Only 0.4lbs heavier than a 285/75 load C (4lbs heavier than 285/70E Cooper ST Maxx). *Negligible* increase in cutting & clearancing compared to 34’s. Offset & alignment are important but tire width is paramount. I already did the BMC for 33’s. If Im going to trim any further it doesn’t make sense to settle on 34’s. IMO once you get to 33’s driveline heat/stress, steering, gearing & mpg are already compromised & out of spec. Once you get to 34’s w/ a V6 you’ll probably re-gear. Might as well get 35’s at that point. 💸 Great video, thanks for sharing! 🍺
Did you re-gear? I’m running 4.88’s so my shift points and torque are excellent. I might go 35’s one day, but then again, I might go solid axle swap and 38’s or 40’s. The build is never complete for me. Happy wheeling 🙌
I haven’t re-geared yet. Figure i’ll wait for the cash to do rear locker at the same time. 4.56 i reckon. 12.6mpg highway w/ the V8 & 33’s here in the pacific northwest. 70% of that is in 4th gear because 5th is too tall to be useful for anything but flat ground 😂. I like that you’ve really emphasized wear & component stress. I’ve destroyed a tie rod, spindle & steering rack on 33’s. Im guessing a rear locker will allow more mech sympathy. I bet 31’s & a locker would outperform 35’s on an open diff. Just wouldn’t look as cool in the Whole Foods Parking lot.
Hey man.. saw your latest video, I hope you fully recover soon. Take care of your self. I had few questions regarding this particular video. - did you have any rubbing on the front fenders? I notice you did not have the high clearance cut on this video - on your newer video any reason why you changed out the stock trail rims to aftermarket? - when you installed winch bumper and winch did it cause a rake and did it cause more rubbing on your 34”? - Currently , do you still have 34” on the runner? If so any prolonged issues having the 34” - any updated or further modifications made to accommodate the 34”? Still just the BMC, high clearance and suspension?
No rubbing early or later; still running the same tires since I only have 29k miles on my 2021. I only drive it for fun. No rake as the hybrid bumpers are light, even with the winch, plus most aftermarket coilovers have pre-load adjustment. As for the recovery, it’s going really well, and I’m just grateful to be alive. 👍🏻👍🏻
I saw a grease zerk that seems to now be hiding behind the bracket. Can it still be accessed? Also, you showed how the axle shifted about a 1/3 of the bolt hole distance. Does that mean the axle is out of line by that amount since it lined up when leveled? And finally, do all solid rear axle vehicles have a panhard rod? Very interesting video. Thanks
I don’t believe any zeros are blocked; I can’t think of one that would be behind the bracket. Since the vehicle was on a lift, and the axle at full droop, it likely shifted a little due to the way a panhard works. No, not all solid scores axels have a PH, a triangulated four link does not, or one with leaf springs, etc. 👍🏻👍🏻
I had my 4Runner lifted (Bilstein 5100's) without the PH kit for over a year. Had one welded on after everyone said I needed one. I took it off a week later. It drove terrible with it on. Looking back, my PH Rod was less than a degree off already. Wasted a few hundred bucks
Spot on. The real test is to look under your vehicle on flat ground; if the PH is flat, or like yours, close to level, no need to change anything. 👍🏻👍🏻
My 4Runner is modified to do/go where I want to go; a stock vehicle would never make it. That said, to each their own, and I agree that a stock rig is very capable 👍🏻
The best way to tell if your rig will benefit from a correction bracket is to park it on flat ground, then climb under the back and see if your panhard is flat or at an angle. You can find more info on the mfr’s site, drkdss.com 👍🏻
Im wanting to go with 34s i just cant make up my mind on 305/70/r17 or 285/75/r17 Will both of these work? I am running the icon stage 5 lift doing a bmc as well
The only difference is the width, the 305 is a full 12” wide, while the 285 is 11.2” wide. Based on expertise with my 5th gen, which has a BMC, inner fender liner trim, and front bumper high clearance trim, the 305 will likely have you chasing rubbing issues. Can you solve them? Probably, but it’s a question of whether or not you want to pound and seam pinch welds, trim or remove the lower fender trim piece. In the end, chose what you like. 👍🏻🙌
Fantastic video. Very informative. At what height of a lift do you need to adjust the pan rod angle or correct it? With all the different lift videos on RU-vid, no one ever talks about the pan rod correction. I’m thinking about doing a 1.5 to 1.75” front lift on my 24 TRD ORP and a 1.5” lift in the rear. I want to keep the factory rake or close to it which is set at 2”.
Thank you, I’m glad you found it helpful. You can find the correction bracket here: drkdss.com A 2” rear lift typically benefits from this geometry correction. I’m not sure if a 1.5 would require it. The easiest way to tell is to do the lift, then check the panhard for any angle while on level ground 👍🏻👍🏻
old video but no explanation as to how much lift before this is needed. also, no mention as to what brand this is, unless there are a million to choose from.
Thanks for the constructive feedback, I always appreciate when someone takes the time to add their critique to hours of work they can benefit from for free.
I lifted my 2006 Nissan Pathfinder 4", the shop I had do the work never mentioned this information. When I'm driving and I run over a bump, I've noticed that shimmy he mentions. Its 2am and I am tempted to go look under my truck right now to see if that Panard bar was raised. I am betting that it was never touched.
It’s unfortunate that most lift kits, and most shops, neglect things like proper geometry; I think it should be mandatory, for safety sake. I hope you’re able to get your rear shimmy resolved. 🙌
Thank you 🙌. Keeping the slip joint of your drive shaft is important regular maintenance, especially if you Offroad in dusty conditions AND if you do regular water crossings. 👍🏻
Is it easy? Well, I have a lift, so I’d say yes. If you’re having to do it on the ground it would be a pain, but definitely do-able, and you don’t have to do it that often. Speaking for myself, I wouldn’t let it stop me from running the CBI skids. There’s also the side benefit of the skids making it harder for someone to steal your cat. converter.
I see some discussion about panhard rod correction in the comments, but you don't mention it in the video at all. Shouldn't you edit this so someone doesn't have to read all your comments for a good (a safe) install? Did I just miss it? Bad on Rough Country for not including it in their kit!
Yeah, bad on pretty much every kit for not including a PH correction. They seem to miss things like this, pinion angle correction, sway bar correction, etc. Anything that changes factory suspension geometry should be addressed. 👍🏻👍🏻
Glad your doing well. Have watched you guys for years. Ive been watching your info regarding tire sizes for 4Runner. Im in Deschutes Oregon area, spend much time out in the woods. My question is I have a 2024 Toyota 4Runner TRD Pro with Fox suspension. Truck is basically stock but looking to upgrade tire size from 265.70 17 to a bigger size but I don't want to do any chop of the body. I have been looking at a 275/70 17 put Mickey Thompson doesn't make a boss AT in this size. What is the biggest tire I could put on this truck without chopping anything and having full articulation. Utilizing TRD stock rims... Thank you very much
Great to have your support 🙌. The 275/70 17 is considered the safe size to go with without cutting. Comparing the 265 to the 275, it’s only .6” taller and .4” wider. Keep in mind that the size increases are split in half; half on top, half on bottom, half on the inside of the wheel, half on the outside. 👍🏻
I really love your videos. I love the brotherly love you both have for one another. Please do more videos both of you. I would also love to go wheeling with you both. Cheers
Here’s the difference between 255/85/17 MT and my 255/75/17 K02’s: MT = 34.1 tall, 10 wide K02 = 33.8 tall, 11.2 wide Based on this I would guess they’ll fit without rubbing, but don’t know for sure. I do think a 10” wide tire will look a bit skinny, but that comes down to personal preference. 👍🏻
I totally agree that 34s are the sweet spot for the 5th gen 4Runner. I had the 34” KM3S on mine and it tackled Moab and Ouray with little issue. I will say that if you drive through mountains or hills often, you’d want your regear even with 34s. Just based on my experience. Great video guys.
Such a strange design to have mechanism that will shift the center line as the car moves up and down be in charge of holding the center line. Seems like there must be a good reason for this, but I don’t get it.
Unfortunately it was a one time project and not something he does on the side. I did add the Victory 4x4 steel/flat cross rails to mine; they open up mounting options.
I’ve watched this a bunch of times, but this is the first time I realized you’re driving through Wilsonville. I used to live there, then Canby, before moving to Idaho. Even bought my 2018 4Runner new at Wilsonville Toyota in 2017. Miss that area so much. ❤
AWESOME! Yup, mine came from Wilsonville Toyota, and I still live in that area. Two of my kids live in the Boise area, so it’s a favorite destination too. Happy trails 🙌
I installed an Icon Stage 2, a BMC and BF Goodrich KO2’s 285/75/17 and have rubbing in the wheel well on the back side near the outer edge. I plan to trim the liner a couple of inches up from the bottom. Should I be having this rub?
