There's something amazing about driving an old car you build and maintain yourself. I’ve been playing with old VWs for almost 30 years and dreamed about driving old cars for longer than that. I bought Dweezil in the mid 90’s and quickly became fascinated with their legendary engineering, the experience of working on them, and the feeling of driving an old car down the road. It’s what I want to do everyday and I know you do too. Together, I believe we can keep these beautiful machines on the road and celebrate the self-reliance of maintaining our own transportation. We’re going to build it and go. We’ll share the right techniques, approach, and reasons for what we do, how we do it, where we go, and why we must. We’ll even do it live at a few events along the way. There are a lot of great people in our circle of friends and I hope you’ll join us here at Haptic Garage.
10.10.24 *Very* nice and detailed job . My '59 #113's main fuel pipe rusted through yesterday and I found this video whilst researching my options . THANK YOU ! . -Nate
Excellent series! I just happen upon my own 1963 Panel Bus project. And find this series very informative and a pleasure to watch.. thanks again for bringing such great content... and explaining things, even I, can understand!
Yep, right after I sent this out they contacted me so I'm good to go now. can't wait to get this old motor running again. Thanks to your video on how to inspect these cases found it was really in good shape. it had a blown piston due to a ring breaking and shut the motor down over 40 years ago. Didn't have that many miles on it when it happened is my guess. Got a corvair to build after this one.
I liked your video 📹 I have a question have you ever heard of people eating charcoal and coal dust these people are eating 🪵 is that even safe to eat this is the stuff you put in the barrel I can't imagine anyone eating charcoal let me know in a message this woman said she is doing it for entertainment only
I just went through the same struggles with an aftermarket fan shroud. Your video is very informative and helpful ! But, PLEASE lose that effing annoying music !
Great job moving and transporting the mill. I'm a lifetime Machinist, now semi retired. Just bought a nice vertical mill, and a 13 X 36 Clausing Lathe. Big problem, it's in a very tight spot and part of the makeshift garage has dirt floors I need to travel through before getting the Machines outside. That drop trailer idea using a winch looks like it's gonna work. Thanks for the video.
Thanks @renecintronjr.2262 and congrats on the mill and lathe. 13x36 sounds like a great size. I'm sure you could teach me a million things as I learn to use this beast. Good luck with the move and let us know how it goes!
My first job was at Scotty's and I remember a gentleman coming in with a broken car key. I was able to make a copy of it for him and it worked. Lol. From that point forward I was always asked to cut keys. There was something satisfying about working with a machine that duplicated something as precise as a key. We need a new key for Abbey but haven't gotten around to it yet. Thanks for sharing your process and findings on the blanks. I never would have thought they would be so different.
Cool stuff! I remember being amazed how the pieces could be lined up to make the copy. That's true handy-man skills. The aftermarket dimensional differences are wild but I guess we shouldn't be surprised at this point!
Hi Brent🙏🏻🇺🇸Glad be seeing you again & safe and appy as usual, Well this is a very interesting theme about the aftermarked keys or blanks.you did the best out of it trying to make the best copys🛠.Keep up the good work and hopefully see👀you back again soon with new videos.Greetings from the Old🇳🇱 Dutch 🇳🇴Norwegian Hubertus,🙏🏻🍀☮🇺🇸
Thanks Hubertus, always great to hear from you! Yes, often we have to make the best of it with today's aftermarket parts. I hope you and the T3 are doing well, my best wishes to you and all our Norwegian friends!
Hey Robert, always good to hear from you. I have few irons in the fire these days but looking forward to posting more regularly again. There will be lots to share!
Cool! Hardware stores have "upgraded" to fully automatic machines, so these old manual machines can be found fairly cheap. I see them occasionally on FB Marketplace in my area. Good luck with your search and let us know how it goes!
Just came across your site. Enjoyed it! Love the way you put the video together, with very little of you and a lot of the work that you are performing. Like the way your repairing the generator. That's the way we did it back in the day. We repaired/rebuilt everything. Again, like the video!
Bought an old true line align bore set many years ago. Made new bronze bushes with one twentieth of the clearance of the old ones the other guy had been using to get a result. Also made a collar that clamped onto a cutter bar with a single tip hss tool bit similar to what you made for thrust cutting. I didn't like the concept of the supplied thrust cutter. Didn't trust it to cut square to the mains bore. Using a fixed thrust stop for the cutter bar I set the cut depth with feeler gauges, then removed the feeler gauge and made the cut. Being piloted in bushings in the fresh cut mains tunnel, turned out square to axis and parallel thrust dimension inside to outside face every time. Think I was still an apprentice bookmaker at the time.
M20x4 thread is not what you'd normally see on ANY "metric" machine, as far as I can tell (being "born metric and native metric" all my life, 60 yrs of it thank you very much, in virtually a 100% metric land) - ESPECIALLY for any "fine-tuning" mechanism. The thing is, "standard metric threads" are considered "coarse threads" - so no need to get any "coarser", so to speak. Double threads are sometimes used for quick action fasteners or such, but that's about it - and In machines like this and in case of "regulating devices" I'd rather expect a fine threads (say, M20x1). So it could be just an "imperial" thread (regular imperial threads for the same/ similar OD are visibly coarser than corresponding metric ones) and without verifying it with thread gauge you just can't know for sure. Also, considering that standard thread angle for metric thread is 60° - means the profile is an equilateral triangle - a 4 mm pitch would mean the height of the profile ≈ √10, i.e. about 3 mm PER SIDE - so if the major ID ≈ 20 mm then the minor ID would be around 20 mm - (2 x 3mm), i.e 14 mm, NOT 18 mm. A rather significant (and hard to miss) difference, if you ask me. Also, from what I can see here, this looks more like "Tr" thread ("Tr" standing for "trapezoid metric," or "metric equivalent of ACME"), not an "M" thread (i.e a regular triangular metric thread) - and in such case the 4 mm pitch would make sense. Why they'd decide for trapezoid thread, I have no effing idea - looks like they did it for no real reason, since there isn't any big force involved in it (like in some heavy load lifting device) and you'd want to control PRECISELY the speed of the blade - so a fine metric thread (like, say, M20x1) would be better suited here. PS: And while I do admire your creativity in solving the problem at hand I still can't see how it was "less work" than changing three gears in the gearbox of your lathe and getting the "M20x4" screw cut.. ;-) Surely, considering what I wrote above it would get you, most likely, exactly nowhere, but then you'd learn more about the thread in question and how tto fix that machine "properly".
Cool! Nice to know there's more out there in use. The company states they are no longer made, so we have to take care of these things! I do have a question- mine is missing a large hast handle/lever from the blade/left side of the platform. I'm guessing that is a grab handle for adjusting the saw into miter positions?
@@HapticGarage Interesting. I'm not an electrician but do have some experience there. I envision a Variac on steroids! I'll have to look up rotary converter. Thanks Haptic!
They're really neat on a technical level. It's a 3 phase motor running on 2 hots, with capacitors and pixie dust for phase shift and magic so the 3rd winding produces a "manufactured" leg of power. Great for efficiency and necessary for running multiple machines. Enjoy!
Thanks @dev-debug A handwheel was indeed one of the missing parts. It's a shame some parts were lost along the way but there's enough left to be useful. This thing slices through structural steel like butter!
Oh that is super cool! Looks like I'm missing the black lever just above the coolant pan. I think that is for rotating the saw for miter cuts. Thanks for the pic @sdmarcotte !
This might work for me because I'm having a hell of a time trying to bleed my break system on my 66 beetle. All of the lines and system are brand new and I've bench bled the master and I can get pedal pressure just not enough
Cool, I hope it works well for you too. I also think mine could be better in comparison to how firm my '67 bus brakes are (also bled with the power bleeder). Will be investigating the pushrod length next. Good luck!
HI Brent, Great be seeing you again douing what you like best👍🏻, fix the stuff what`s not functional in the way it should🛠🔧well executed my friend🙏🏻🍀.Greetings.Hubertus🇳🇱🇳🇴☮🙏🏻🇺🇸
