Thank you for your kind words! If you want to sqare your router, see my video on tramming my bigger mill. The process is just the same: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-lMQTyNsCFyo.htmlsi=2elZELv1gBy1w5h9
@@RUNCNC Use a linear guide rail. How long is it to have a work area of 500×500×220? I'd like to ask a question, I'm preparing things to build a machine.
Hi! Thank you for the info and descriptive video. I wonder, now that you have it for some time, how do you find using it? Is it good enough compared to how your Optimum mill would be if it were CNCed?
I am very satisfied with the machine. In fact, it turned out better than I expected. Unlike my old green router (as you mentioned) it cuts steel quite well. But there is always room for improvement: What would I change if I built it again? Next time I would use this spindle: www.damencnc.com/en/quicktoolchanger-fan-c5160-d-2dbs-hsk40c-pr-hy-2-2kw-6-000-18-000rpm/a3969 It has three times the torque than my new Teknomotor spindle. The new 2kW Teknomotor spindle I'm using was an improvement, but there are some torque issues when drilling. (I can't use drill bits larger than 5mm in steel for drilling, for milling I use carbide endmills up to 10mm)). A big advantage would be quick tool changes since using collets sucks. What else? Automatic lubrication would be nice, glass scales for higher accuracy (LinuxCNC can read them and correct division errors). Since the gantry is rock solid (even stiffer compared to my MB4), I would opt for 50mm taller columns to achieve more Z travel. I started converting a second MB4 to CNC that I bought used at a great price on Ebay. But I immediately gave up when I realized that an MB4 would only provide less than 200mm of Y travel and has a spindle that is far too slow for aluminum - even for steel using modern carbide end mills. I'm definitely missing some sort of chip guard - but I don't want to waste too much shop space on a large greenhouse. Maybee I come up with an idea for this sometime. Ok - that has been a larger comment. Hope that helps! Or feel free to message me! Greets Markus
@@RUNCNC thanks! it actually helps a lot. I am considering getting an old CNC, a Maho MH400E, which I guess compared to the MB4, has 4000 rpm. The issue with that is the greenhouse...so 2m*2m*2m, which indeed sucks for shop floor covered. Alternatively, building something as you did seems a good option, the issue I see is the lack of rigidity and capability compared to a bit iron machine. Curious how you see that.
Would you concider this a better\easier technique than spotting the surfaces and scraping them? Would scraping just take too long to make the adjustments needed? Does epoxy have vibration dampening characteristics? I feel like the epoxy layer would make a weak spot in the rigidity. Atleast more than two scrapped mating surfaces. Love the video
Sehr gute Video. Ich habe eine ähnliche Fräse von Holzmann. Die Z Achse von der steht so extrem schief, dass es eigentlich kaum möglich ist die mit unterlegen auszurichten. Ich muss mich erst einmal noch um die Keilleiste der Z Achse Kümmern. Die ist wie eine Banane geformt. Danach werde ich meine Z Axhse sk ausrichten wie du.
Thanks for the video. After watching you _beim Marathon-leiern_ I am 100% certain that I will only attempt this after having added a z-drive-motor to my machine.
Can you give us an update on how much difference you think the epoxy made? Is your mill more accurate or is it more rigid? When do you notice the difference most? I just discovered that my mill has the same issue and will be doing the epoxy soon.
@@TheHalloweenmasks Did you check for additiononal play in your bearing blocks? To check this, you put a dial indicator to the end of your ballscrews and apply some force to them.
There was play there but I fitted a second ball screw nut with preload, I still have small backlash so I compensate for this within the cnc software.@@RUNCNC
Great Machine Why didn't you make the portal movable? With this design, the machining area is much smaller. Have you by any chance made a calculation of the two concepts regarding stability?
I show them here in my build video: see 2:50 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nvuWSByHnMk.html You can buy them here: www.sorotec.de/shop/JMC-Servo-Motor-mit-integriertem-Servotreiber-180-Watt---36-Volt---3000-1-min.html?language=de
- surfaced cross beam - surfaced left & right ‘legs’ I had some problems with making a flat surface for Y rails, but finally I managed to remove 1,5 mm of steel and I have a flat ~90 x 20 cm surface.
Xin chào bạn, mình là người Việt Nam. Mình đã ấn tượng sau khi xem video của bạn. Xin phép bạn, bạn có thể chia sẻ cho mình Đồ án bạn đã viết ra trước khi chế tạo sản phẩm này được không?
Xin chào từ Đức! Thật không may, tôi không nói được tiếng Việt, chỉ có tiếng Đức hoặc tiếng Anh. Tôi cũng không hiểu chính xác ý của họ là gì. Bạn có muốn xây dựng? drive.google.com/file/d/1iLqC0CBBvB6Z7155BkrQ6JC2GNSu4HoT/view?usp=share_link Bạn đã xem bộ phim thứ hai chưa? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nvuWSByHnMk.html Dưới đây là nhiều hình ảnh: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1hwda6CFJtIGftrL5-l1fkFvQ2RGibhAt?usp=share_link
Maybee! Well, a print on that plate says, it was cast in former Eastern Germany. Germany was reunited in 1990 - so no worries - that plate was build in the 80s or ealier.
Thank you for sharing , I was just concern about the acuracy what is the difrence beetwin cast column verses steel just about the stability , could you also tell me about all steps you need to take to built complete cnc mill including guide ways and electical , I would realy appriciate that , Thank you and good luck to you
Thanks for the video. It was actually easier to understand than Stefan's. I have a few questions as this topic has interested me for a long while, and I watched every video I could on it, and read through all 350 comments on Stefan's video. 1) When you get the front/back direction trammed and then switch to the left/right direction, if it is off, do you adjust two screws on the same side of the column the same amount, so as not to ruin the tram from the first direction? 2) When you are adjusting the screws for tram, are you always tightening only, so they compress the wire more and more as you go? Or do you ever loosen any of the screws mid-process? 3) How thick was your wire? It looked thinner than Stefan's. Was yours about 1mm thick? Is it a regular copper wire for house wiring? Did you anneal it like Stefan did, or use it as-is? 4) When you are tightening the screws (while the epoxy is still soft), are you making them only "snug" to get into tram? Or are you tightening them very firmly? 5) After the epoxy cures, do you have an indication on how much the epoxy shrunk? When you tightened the screws, did you have to tighten them a large distance due to shrink? 6) Did you make the screws super tight (after the epoxy cured)? 7) When you tightened the screws (after epoxy cure), did you have an indicator in the spindle agains the table, to see it it moved while tightening? If so, did it move? How much? My first practice with this method I had a lot of movement while fully tightening the screws, that's why I ask.
Thank you for your interest in my video. As it is 6 am in the morning in my place and a bunch of questions, I'll answer them later when I'm back at my PC.
1) When you get the front/back direction trammed and then switch to the left/right direction, if it is off, do you adjust two screws on the same side of the column the same amount, so as not to ruin the tram from the first direction? I fastened all screws slightly. Than I used only 3 screws. As the column was leaned forward and more to the left I used the screws in the back and the right-front-screw to tram the mill. First I trammed forward/backward, then left right. Now it was only a little off and then it was some playing with the right torque on all screws. You tighten only a bit, check with the indicator, tighten, check, tighten, check, ... . I was really exhausted after this workout! 2) When you are adjusting the screws for tram, are you always tightening only, so they compress the wire more and more as you go? Or do you ever loosen any of the screws mid-process? Always tighten, no loose - we don´t want any gaps. 3) How thick was your wire? I used 1.5mm2 wire for regular house wiring. The diameter is 2 sqr(1.5/pi) - . Did you anneal it like Stefan did, or use it as-is? Yes, I used a gas torch to make it soft. 4) When you are tightening the screws (while the epoxy is still soft), are you making them only "snug" to get into tram? Or are you tightening them very firmly? See process described in 1 - only low torque. 5) After the epoxy cures, do you have an indication on how much the epoxy shrunk? The datasheets provided with the product says this stuff only shrinks less than 0,1%. Well, i didn´t messuare it, but i think this is true. When you tightened the screws, did you have to tighten them a large distance due to shrink? No, I think due to the very little shrinkage. 6) Did you make the screws super tight (after the epoxy cured)? I used a normal hex-wrench, no extra long and no lever. I just tightened them with normal force. 7) When you tightened the screws (after epoxy cure), did you have an indicator in the spindle agains the table, to see it it moved while tightening? No, I tightened them without any indicator reading, but checked it afterwards. To be honest: The reading you see in the video is done after the cure - I was to busy while tramming the mill. If so, did it move? How much? I think it didn´t move or maybee in the range of 1/1000 mm. Hope that helps! Otherwise feel free to ask! Cheers Markus!
Ok, now I am building a clone of this. Stay tuned. My progress is around 40% - CAD drawings - giant cast plate - metal sheets - cutting - welding - annealing - milling Z and XZ plates - sourcing motors, spindle, rails and ball screws … I am here …
Well done, I believe you should have only waxed one side, so that it is bonded properly however. Will still be a great fix though, as long as you dont move it.
Yes, you are right. I took it into consideration, but I wanted to be safe and able to seperate both parts. As I want to keep the mill, my heirs can cope with! 😉
