Despite the “crack heads” and the “peace out” comments, a really enjoyable video, thanks! Maybe darken your LCD next time? For us and your poor pals...
I have gone to one of the lake in Toronto 2 times in the morning. I have no idea why I can not see it. The direction is correct and the weather is nice no cloud.
This is so awesome!! My solo trip to the big island and Maui was the impetus to get my first mirrorless camera and I really wish I’d had more time before the trip to learn. I spent some time learning the very basics about my camera, but the little things (like setting a 2 second timer for long exposures) didn’t even cross my radar. I got some pretty good (by my definition and that’s what counts right?!) shots while I was out there and they will definitely help me remember and enjoy the trip for years to come (which was the goal) but I do have some regrets!
Great video and great capture. I hear it is coming back in view from October 9 and should be seen during the sunset. Is that accurate? Any tips? I haven’t done any Astro photography.
I believe October 12th through month's-end, with diminishing returns, if it survives it's pass by the sun. If it does, it'll be visible in the west at pre-dawn hours in North America (check online for your best times where you are)
Isnt sony camera's image quality very bad after astromodification? I recently did mod my A7C and corner sharpness completely ruined. Too much elongated stars on every lens compare to pre mod. And I used top quality lens like the 14GM, 24GM, 50 1.2 GM
Though im a bit late to the party i think you should revisit these images with noise reduction software. I have been told that the higher pixel sensor respond much better to noise reduction and give a better end result after post processing.
I really wanted to like the fist iteration of the Atoll, but after watching you video on its pitfalls, I decided against buying one. After watching this video, I placed an order for the new version. Thanks for another informative video!
Looks like you do not know about PhotoPills or even Planit Pro!! PhotoPills has the Spot Stars section. Spot Stars you first select your camera then your lens mm and f/# you will get three option 1. Old 500 rule ( it is just the all around Shutter Speed of old), Default is a good Shutter Speed, Accurate the Shutter Speed for no elongate stars at all. Just info- first the lower the f/# the faster the SS needed second the more MP camera the faster the SS needed put both together and you will get a 5 sec SS or about that. But you can dial in f/4 on a A7SM1 (12MP) and do a 25 -30s and get the same results!!!! You can also do a f/5.6 if you want!! All A7SM 1, 2, 3 are just as sharp and colorful as the A7RM5 with settings set for each I have all four!! Next the Milky Way Arch from Feb to Aug you will need the widest like 12mm late in season due to the Arch top will be over your head and some beyond it. The key for a fast Arch is fast SS has to be fastest for a fast panorama also the lightest lenses on on your pano rig. The Sony 14mm f/1.8 BUT for a very small 12mm use the APS-C lens of 2014 E 10-18mm f/4 (15-27mm in 35mm) BUT 12mm in Full Frame mode, really believe or not, I used from 2015 to now even a 12mm before there where 12mm's. Sony 12-24mm f/4 or f/2.8 in a heavy and big lens duh! An most important is to use camera NR why? When using a pano rig there is a stepper at it base so when NR comes on you move to the step and on an on for a 200 degree pano under 90s, if on a beach you will get tides that blend perfectly when merging images. Also never ever use RED headlamps USE Green or Blue if people are around you they will thank you when they edit, Red is the hardest to clone out when editing. An added thing for those around Oceans and water get and use also for planning Planit Pro it has a tide height in the time line at the bottom as a sine wave showing high to low and back way better than reading a tide chart for what day and or night is each. Always plan on a high to low to get a clean beach with no foot prints. Lastly you have 5 days before and after to capture so a work around for bad weather or cloudy skies and for the Feb to May time 5 days before you will get a crescent moon below the MW looking like a full Moon with a long exposure. If under parking lot or building lights in foreground just use Aperture mode why there is light and A mode will compensate. Also If you can find a Sony A7 Mod 1 or 2 ask if it has the on camera Apps for the Digital Filter will allow you to capture a sky and foreground separately getting a Raw or jpeg or both and adjust horizon before going to SD card great for MW's over lit towns/cities for the new low light city lights you will get the most awesome and all will say you cloned it but not!!! The is no need also to head out the rattlesnake lands for even under a street light in the middle of a bright lit city you can do it. Have FUN out in the dark but always carry bear spray the jell kind and a noise maker for gators/bears and for those big cats at the Grand Canyon and other place wear a hat with big eyes sewn facing backwards it may stop a big cat attack from behind. If you can afford a inferred monocle to see in the dark without a flash light. For the bugs Skin So Soft oil in water in a small spray bottle.
I go thru those moments too. I take breaks or switch to wildlife. I don't do many sunrises or sunsets anyways, I get bored with them unless is a unique striking one with golden fire clouds 😅. On a side note, why I experience other techniques with night photography to switch it up.
i was take some pics from DJI AIR 3 for my client..ths was bridge picture so i was fkew drone high then take pics.. as we all know that Air3 have fix 24mm 1.4 camera so cam automatically set shutter 3500 i was set ISO at 100 due to harsh sun. but when i saw pic at pc so disappointed. Bridge look great in picture but VEHICLES who was at bridge was feel NOISY i mean throughout pic not sharp as i was thought can anybody advice solution
Aloha, Spencer! Mahalo for your video showcasing the Air 3. I recently bought one and want to take it up for a spin. Your footage makes us want to visit the islands again. It's been 9 years since visiting Kona. At that time, I did not own a drone. I like the fact we can travel with this drone being somewhere in between the Mini and the Mavic. Keep up the great work!
It seemed like the 61mp zoomed in further than the a1 can you use the same magnification manually to see if the nose is similar then? Great video now i want to go to lake lost‼️
Sony A1 is stupid expensive ! The Sony A7CR was in this summer more expensive than the Sony A7RV ! Sony A7III have this year been very cheap, even more as used !
Hey dude ! Do you think theres enough space to fit an 16 macbook pro on top of the camara Cube? I mean inside the main compartment but not in the laptop dedicated space that only hold 14”. Thanks
The big problem with a prime lens such as the 14mm GM is that at such focal lengths, each mm does a big difference in composition. At 12mm maybe the subject is too far away and lost in the background, but maybe at 18 could be perfect. Having a zoom for an ultrawide lens is really amazing. I'd prefer the 12-24 for landscape photography rather than the 14mm, but for astro yea the 14mm however is an awesome lens.
Thank you for making this video! I was looking for a review that does a good job covering the different quirks and benefits, and you did a very good job.
I recently added a9 as a second body to my a7riii. I was too curious about shooting electronic vs mechanical on my a7riii since I mostly use the a9 on electronic shutter. I use it for wildlife and astro. If I understood you correctly, I should stick with mechanical on the R?
Too extreme lol, u should have seen noise of sony slt-55, I literally had to turn all possible denoising technics, sharpening, and resize the image to 1/4 resolution just to make incredible purple mess go away.
Wait, so if you set time interval to 1 sec on Nikon cameras it will continuously taking photos and give it a 1 sec delay between each shot? I usually set time interval to 7 sec if my exposure is 6 sec and I want to give it a 1 sec delay between each shot. Except when I doing 30 second exposure I need to set the time interval to 33 sec(32 sec exposure + 1 sec delay). Yes the Nikon time interval shoot is bit confusing LOL
9:29 that’s not correct for Sony cameras. I take 15 seconds shot for astro Timelapse and set the interval to be 17 seconds to give 2 seconds interval between shots.
Spencer Lee for the 6 seconds of exposure you had in the camera, you had to put a 7 second interval and the number of shots so that the Nikon doesn't stop in the middle of the timelapse. Nice video Spencer Lee
I have one kislux bag I got in 2019, it's the LV white catogram speedy. It's counter quality and it has a nice honey patina now, so the leather is real. I think whatever makes you happy go for it. I've seen LV with plastic leather and blood red glaze...
