Welcome to the channel! Here you'll find video's of vehicle repairs, DIY's, Tips & Tricks, personal projects and of course car builds!! I have a few vehicles I'm building which will make their way onto the channel as the channel grows. I also have a few friends that have vehicles I help them out with. Theres a ton of interesting and fun content to come so definitely consider subscribing!! Thanks for visiting!!
Want to get in contact with me? Want to support the builds or the channel? Links are down below!
toyota's looking good bro! Before you start pulling the engine apart, get the fuel situation corrected. replace whatever hoses are collapsed or kinked and get a good flow going into the carb. the hesitation on accel and lack of fuel seem like they'd be related
The plugs are showing too much fuel. I found out the primary jet is waaay to big. I'm going to install the twin carbs first to see if they have the correct jets before I pull it apart.
Sometimes, old cars tend to give mixed signals, keep in mistery the real reasons for problems, and I know it is frustating. The ignition timing all over the place could be 1. a faulty vacuum signal for the canister, 2. faulty points or electronic box inside the distributor, or 3. a faulty distributor at all. You bought a canister with 2 vacuum signals, one is for advance at low rpms, the other for retard at high rpms....this second line, in case of not use, must be plug to avoid "atmospheric pressure" to mess with the inside diaphragm of the vacuum canister. Check also the source for vacuum signal in the carb, and the condition of the hose. Also, a bad seal in the carburator base may cause mixed vacuum signals to the distributor, and also a rough iddle and acceleration of the engine, along with bad MPG.
I'm thinking of just having someone cut the bottom of the tank out and weld in a section that will allow more gas. With the rust being on the bottom of the tank it should eliminate it all.
I use maestros products but I try not to put chemicals in my beard every single day. It gets brushed constantly. What I need is one of the straighteners.
I was thinking have someone weld an extension to the original tank since the top of the tank is rust free. Basically cut out the spare tire area on the tank and weld the extension on.
Another great video Red! What A Success... All she needs is that vac. advance installed, re-tune and she's back on track. This build is getting better and better bro nice job!
Dope visors Red they are really going to bring the wagon to life i see. Another great episode bro at least we got to see those bad boys installed. Cant wait for next week already Bro keep them coming...
I see why he does it. It's fun as hell lol. Bro little by little. Start recording it! I'd love to watch! Im currently watching Sarahntuned restomod a 74 Celica.
Me too bro watching her do that trying to get some inspiration I got a 3sge beams going into mine watch Dave from speed academy his celica is beautiful
Love your wagon! And love your wheels / tires combo, how they're flush with the body, besides the thin front and fat rears. Do you have the size of the wheels and tires?
That is a Weber 32/36 DGV carb? The adjusting screw in the base of the carb, must be the iddle mixture adjuster, it sets the amount of fuel for the iddle circuit of the carb. When you tight it, you're cutting fuel to the iddle circuit, when you loose it you're letting more fuel to the circuit. In general, that screw must be 1 and a half to 2 and a half turns from close position for a good iddle mixture, less turns means the carb has a big iddle jet for your engine, more turns means a smaller iddle jet than necesary. The screw near where the thottle cable is attached, is for set the engine iddle speed. For adjust the carb, I follow the next procedure: set the iddle mixture to 2 turns from close position, and the iddle speed to about 1.000 rmps: then close the iddle mixture one quarter of a turn each time, until the rpms begins to drop...then backup the mixture screw half a turn. To this point, I set the iddle rpms to about 850-900 rpms for a steady iddle. In your case, I believe your carb is leaking gas everywhere, even inside the engine, so adjusting it is near imposible (and likely flooding your engine, this will explain the hard time starting it). If you want to keep this carb, it will need a full refurbish. Also, for better tunning, you'll need an tachometer you can see when adjusting the carb (could be an electronic unit that attachs to a sparkplug cable), and very recomended (but not necesary) a sort of external lambda sensor of the type with a exhaust terminal probe, so you can track the mixture in real time. Also, check your timing: I believe for your car must be set to about 10° BTDC at iddle with the vacuum unit in the distributor disconnected, but better check your repair manual. I hope you can find the problem, for enjoy that beautiful car!
Thank you for the information! I've ordered a rebuilt kit for the carb. It's a 34 dgec solex carb branded as weber. If after the rebuild I am still having issues I will most likely switch to the twin carbs or purchase a brand new unit.
We are here with you through all the struggles Red! This car is going to be great in the end i know it. I say put the twin carbs on and scarp the old. I think that electronic choke would help with the startups and check the plugs as well. But That carb is leaking from everywhere so i would say start with the carbs you are going to be using in the long haul.
My first car in 73. Got rear ended by a land cruiser and flipped end over end. Damn roof caved in and the sun visor scalped me like a western movie, a doctor on his way home found my scalp, put it back where it belonged and wrapped it good enough to get to the hospital. Left a pretty gruesome scar but I still have my hair at 66.
Hi mate! Nice to see a Corolla wagon taking full love and care! I have a 1973 wagon I been working on, and from my experience a few things: please check the oil, because when the mechanic fuel pump let go, the internal diaphragm is broken, and this let the fuel leak internally to the engine block. I'm in the process to put an electric fuel pump to my car, because I have trust issues with mechanical fuel pumps. Also, I can see your car has (I believe) the original alternator with the external points voltage regulator. You can upgrade to a modern alternator from a Corolla AE90 - AE92, more amps and electronic internal voltage regulator, so you can keep your radio, subwoofer and amplifier, and keep your battery in good health. And check the battery metal base, specially if you put a heavier battery, this because the base structure likes to rust and get loose eventually. Finally, you can upgrade to an electronic ignition module in the distributor, and take full advantage of the MSD box. I'll send pictures of my KE26 wagon to your IG account, so we can keep contact! Greetings from Costa Rica!
