What is up, guys? Many of you may know me from my old channel, BattleAxTheater. This is my personal dump for future keyboard videos, retro projects, gaming PC builds and miscellaneous gameplay content from every day gaming. 🤘🤙
First of all great video, I had the usb-c connector of my keyboard broken and I was looking for a teardown video to see if I could change it myself. Seeing that the connector isn't soldered to the board I thought I could buy one and fix it. Can you refer me to the right type of connector to buy?
@@punkshoo yeah I did exactly all that. It's not detected by via. I downloaded the json, extracted and loaded into via, unplugged replug the doio kb16, nothing shows up. The doio itself does light up. Maybe I got mailed a bad one
Thanks for checking out the vid! Unfortunately I have no idea which screws are used for the PCB but Monsgeek has a fantastic Discord community that could probably help. Link is on their website.
Hi! Would you know how big the memory is whenever you're saving macros through VIA? The reason I'm asking is that my Keychron only has 128K of memory (visible through VIA too) which is also a lot, but still isn't enough for the amount of tasks per macro I have. Thanks in advance!
I do not know off the top of My head, but I would assume that it's the same since most of these boards and macro pads use similar microprocessors. If you want something of larger memory, you'll need to find something that uses an rp2040.
I didn't decide between Elgato Stream Deck +, Audio Mixer, just streamer desk or Megalodon Triple Knob Macro Pad. I'm thinking to buy the nob Controller too to make a Combo. Which one you will choose base in your experience?
I will always recommend a Stream Deck for someone looking to stream. These can handle some functionality but Elgato products just interface so much more easily.
Is this a "real" board layout? I've seen Epomaker make a product that's identical - did they just steal Dukharo's design, like many Chinese companies seemingly do? 🤨
I don't follow the initial question. If you're asking if this is a standard available layout then, yes, for the most part. Its a deviation of the 1800 layout. As for Dukharo and "Chinese" companies stealing things: White labeling is very popular on items like this. One factory produces them and slaps stickers on it for the reseller masked as their own brand.
@@punkshoo Oh yeah, sorry. I just meant if it was a common layout or just a one-off made by some random Chinese manufacturer, but I guess not. Thanks for the info! 😇 Say, the Cream Soda switch, that's your design, isn't it?
Bro, I love your videos for their informative content, but your mouse pad creeps me out. Probably because elephants don't actually have bug eyes. I like to imagine it's staring into my soul, waiting patiently for the right time to strike at my heart. It is... unnerving. But I suppose its intent is to look cute. 💀
@@punkshoo It's not offensive! Bah! I was joking. If people actually found such minuscule details offensive they wouldn't be able to live in today's society.
This layout is 75%. This site is a great resource for newcomers and should answer most of your questions: www.keyboard.university/100-courses/keyboard-sizes-layouts-gdeby
Just wanted to let you know, the official WhatGeek RU-vid channel is using some of your footage in their video about this with the watermarks and stuff cropped out. Considering that their support has been abysmal, please do something about this.
WhatGeek provided this unit for review a LONG time ago and they are permitted to use my video content. As for their customer service: I cannot comment on that. I no longer work directly with them.
Great video, finally someone showed all the layers properly assembled in order :) Quick question: did you screw the foam that goes at the bottom? It seems to be pre-cut for all the electronics and the screws too, or did you just put it in the casing on top of your own foam?
Thanks for stopping by and checking out the video! Precut case foam is usually just placed in the bottom of the case. There's no need to really secure it with anything.
New to keyboards and after a week of obsessing, I finally pulled the trigger on this guy today. Thanks for the review and thanks for easing my mind about the decision!
I started modding my t83 with a new set of keycaps tsungup keycaps and i am loving it i am planing to get creamy swithces from akko , wanted to get your opinion this and wanna add something since i own a mac and a pc at the same time i had a problem with this keyboard that it either getting stuck at windows mode or mac mode i dunno why and the guys at dierya didnt help with that too do you have any idea or any suggestions regarding that ?
Can't really comments on the mode switching of the board since I never used it, unfortunately, and the fact they couldn't/wouldn't help with that is really disappointing. You could potentially look into getting a more tried and true board that is known for its ability to switch profiles well like a Keychron K series but that would involve getting a whole new board. Sorry to hear you're having those troubles.
I haven't tried it but I seriously doubt it considering there is no blocker between the number row and the function row because the V2 has no function row.
I wouldn't go as far as removing the stand offs physically due to it being my only current go-to, however, I found that even simply not tightening the plastic body screws (Just enough so they hold the body together, slightly loser than hand tightened) made a really huge difference in sound making it much less clacky. The difference is rather dramatic, I wonder if you've noticed the same?
Didn't bother as the first build I did was isolation mounted using orings. Stack mounting requires the removal of the standoffs to allow for the PCB assembly to "bounce" and provides a much softer typing feel vs the default tray mounting.
Hey man it’s me again and I looked inside the JST connector on the case and I couldn’t see any bents but the connector still won’t push in. What should I do??
Hey man thanks for this video it was really helpful and I know I’m kind of commenting this a bit late but quick question. This is my first keyboard build and you know that little white cord on the case? How do you connect that to the pcb😂 I know it should be easy but it just won’t push in for me! Pls help me😭
Always happy to make vids for cool value oriented boards. If the JST connector is not pushing in it is likely that one of the pins is bend. Look inside the connector on the PCB with a good light source and straighten the pins with a set of tweezers if they are bent.
Is that box legit? I've only seen the blue Epomaker box with text and everything.. Also, when I look at other reviews and on the product page, it looks like are black instead of yellow. It might be legit anyway.. I don't know if different batches use different components. I heard sometimes the knob has a different color as well. I am actually waiting for my Epomaker TH80 Pro Barebones right now. Also having some shipping issues, though I ordered it around Christmas time. So I can wait a little. Love your review though! Thanks for making this video.
It's direct from Epomaker from AliExpress from their first batch well over a year ago. Might have changed since then and been revised. Thanks for the love!
I just got mine. I removed the case foam and put Kill Mat in its place. Tape mod the PCB with quality electrical tape, put on the brass plate (yes brass), double gasketed the bottom case with included extra gaskets, Gateron Ink Blacks that are lubed and filmed, and Artifact Bloom keycaps. It has an excellent marbled sound. It is slightly muted, but I love it. I was think in of getting the fex kit. Not for flex, I don't understand the need for flex when you re typing on springs. But I wanted it for the extra space between the PCB and case. It should let the lower tones resonate a bit more making even more thocky.
I suppose you should just shop elsewhere then instead of taking it out on this poor board if you aren't happy with their prices. Nothing speaks louder to a business than when you speak with your wallet.
My only complaint about this device is that you can’t map a “double click” to one of the buttons. It only allows one click command. It really helps when I need to quickly highlight to copy a text as there my work involves a lot of clicking.
Did you try scripting in 2 singular clicks with minimal wait time between them? Should work. Who knows, though. I never could get mine to run half the scripts I wanted to so I ended up shelving it. Still a great unit but not for my specific use case.
I'm not experienced with mapping keys but I usually can figure stuff out with some research, but I couldn't get anything to work or save on mine beyond what the keys came as. And as I'm combing through looking for more info to figure it out, I keep seeing others say they shelved it or sold it too. :( I'm beginning to think I might have to do the same. I've got negative productivity out of it because all the time has been spent trying to configure it to no avail. It sucks because the device feels good and looks good and should be a great productivity tool but the software thus far is a hindrance.
I edit in DaVinci and Reaper a lot ... been looking for somehtign to streamline my editing. This pad is pretty high on my list because the LoopDeckCT, while being EXACTLY what I want, is just WAY out of my price range. LOL
I don't daily drive any board for extended periods of time and these keycaps have been mostly for display. However, one of my more often used boards with Akko JDA Fuji which I use as my gaming board have held up swimmingly. In the year plus I've owned them they look as good as the day I put them on the Top 75.
Did you get this futher modded? got one too and thought it was a bit wobbely on the keys with my blue switches. Got premium caps so was wandering how to impove on it. Can be the switches or maybe its the board because you thought it were the cheap caps doing it.
Not sure what you mean by wobbly but I did a full mod on it here and was quite happy with the results: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-E3piAvfl_kU.htmlsi=uC9fFF6rs1zQVlLT
Hello, thank you for your review! I have a question. Does your acrylic bottom feel hollow? Specially if you knock on it or run your fingers on the surface? Top feels solid on mine, but the bottom feels so empty and I want to know if this is normal for everyone.
Hey. When you programme this, do the inputs stay assigned to the pad if you were to take it to another pc without the software installed? I could really do with something similar for work but cannot install software on a business device. Thanks
@@punkshoo That's the fastest response I think I've ever had on youtube! Thanks for the review, the advice....and the voucher code! Just ordered one from WhatGeek.
I got the Pro version of this kit when it was on sale for Black Friday. The box was printed and my stabs are completely solid. I added some PE foam to the bottom of the case but didn't tape it. Now I'm just waiting for Amazon to deliver the second set of switches...
I am seriously looking at the SPR75 because I think that the Spring Mount is fascinating and this will definitely be one of the next keyboards that I get
It has down firing RGB that allows it to fire out the site windows of the case. The software is miles ahead of the Feker and Dierya offerings as well. This was also out before the Dierya but I would agree that it closely resembles the multitude of other plastic 75% exploded layout knobbed keyboards out there. Clone is a stretch though. Awesome little keeb with its own unique properties. Over a year later and I would still recommend it any day to someone looking at entry level budget boards.
Sorry for the delay. The Mod 007, PC75B, and 5075S boards are all completely different. The quality of the injection molding, the molds used, and the mounting systems are different. I am also understanding that the new Mod 007 uses a VIA compatible PCB whereas the others do not.
