I have always enjoyed taking stuff apart and putting it back together. Even when I was a kid I had a talent for figuring out how things worked and how to fix them. I like to fix stuff. And I like to make videos. So I make lots of videos about fixing stuff. I work on bikes a lot. I work on my cars sometimes. I fix computers. I fix stuff around the house. And so I have lots of opportunities to make videos about how to fix stuff. Hopefully you will find my videos useful or at least entertaining. Maybe they will even help you fix your stuff.
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Also check out my RJ The Bike Guy website: www.RJTheBikeGuy.com
And I am also on facebook at facebook.com/RJTheBikeGuy
Thanks! RJ
For business and permissions inquires : rjthebikeguy@gmail.com (bike questions will NOT be answered that are sent to this address, only business inquiries)
Many years ago, when my car was new, Honda had a lot of nerve to ask $50 for this service. I just purchased two new filters on Amazon for under $15, and replacement couldn't be any simpler.
If you were going at something with an impact, I have found that it is helpful to not fully pull the trigger. Pull the trigger a quarter throttle and just let it hit for a while. Then up to half throttle and let it hit for a while. A lot of times all that hammering will loosen it without stripping it.
Any idea what tool would fit a Torque Drive system? I've got a bike with about 40 miles on it that has something not good going on inside. It was abused the first 2 miles before they threw it out but still a great box bike.
That was a very desirable hand built fillet braised Schwinn Sports Tourer. The bike looked in very nice condition, so if you just polished up the chrome and put fresh grease in the rims and bottom bracket you probably could of sold it for more with less work. At least another classic hand built high end Schwinn was transformed into a fixie!😢
RJ I really enjoy your channel, I have a 74 Peugeot 10 speed all original but I think a may have to replace my simplex derailleur. Can please tell me what would be a good replacement. It's just a pleasure bike I have had for 50 years. Thank you!
My v-brakes don't have that swinging arm where the noodle goes. They're a different style which just holds the noodle at the tip of the arm. Can I still install one of these?
Given the different metals in the crank and pedal shaft i think heat would have been the go to option. The difference in rate of expansion between the different metals would break the joint. Also using a power tool on that tiny hex hole was a sure fire way to strip it
Wouldn't DRY lube work better for the cable channel strictly? I know the plastic claw and where they come together should get your lube. I'd think a dry cable will attract less grit as it slides around but do think a dry lube would be a good idea. FYI I'm a new biker so I'm not trying to say you are wrong just genuinely curious. This video being 10yr old probably won't get a response but any explain why wet lube is safe for the cable specifically or why dry lube isn't the right thing to use? Again I'm new so trying to learn anyone with more experience would be great to learn from.
Afterfighting with the caged bearings over and over you have shown me a cheap upgrade to a problem crank thank you i stumbled on to this video not even looking for it😅
Great video! This will save me money and time. One thing I would do to make it easier to use. I would make the screw hole the correct size, 1/4" in your case, and I would put a nut, on the bolt, and just use the nut to set the bolt at the set height.
Hi after seeing many videos and finally your opened my rapoo Bluetooth key board and kept cleaning the rubber circuit, first one key started working and then the remaining 3 started working. thanks
I have a Rapoo keyboard which is more of a sealed one and you need to pull the frame from top. I did that but I have no choice separating the thin membrane. Does anyone have any idea pls? Just my space bar was not working and can you believe it was typing 9 and / continuously withing even touching it sometimes.
RJ Well, I see this video was made a long time ago and I think I read that you have some health issues so I hope you can answer my question. I am converting an old mtn bike for road use. (I know possibly a waste of money). I would like to switch the square taper to the Hollowtech II cranks. You mention that the Hollowtech bottom bracket comes in a mtn bike version and a road version. Since I have a mtn bike frame but want to put road cranks on, which bottom bracket should I use? Thank you and hope you are well. Mark
The worst I ever experienced were completely corroded Shimano DX pedals in a 1990 Deore Crank. 15mm Hex on the axle, but did not move a bit. Had to clamp the crank arm in a heavy vice, attach heat with a blowtorch and use 3 ft steel tubing as lever, then it went with a horrible Scream and yes, it took parts of the thread with it ... but Cranks remained usable. The pedals were toast anyway, pitted bearings....
The amount of work vs the value of the whole bike... with some luck, you can find a vintage donor for the crank arms in a scrapyard or a garage sale. First of all, what did you want to save...? if the crank, the last removal scratched it up badly. Not bolting down the vise, not starting with the removal with the cranks off in the first place, etc... not nice to watch. I was thinking about what I would have done, perhaps submerged the stubborn DS thread in some penetrating fluid in a hope to save the pedals; if that was not the plan, why not just take the pedal body off and grab the axle? This particular model the pedal body is hold by a circlip at the base that is inaccessible when the pedal is on, but you can probably force it off by cutting into the plastic, then you can do whatever you want with the otherwise smooth round axle (grind a face or weld something onto it and then clamp it properly).
