Am watching your video to help with my project. It's my first time dealing with a blower. Put oil in the tank and it leaked out right away. Pulled it apart and when pulling the gears, a bunch of the shims dropped out. Don't know which side they go on. How can I fix that? Thanks in advance, Bill
Bill: Choose a side at random and re-install all of the shims on that side behind the drive gear. Then start watching the video at this spot: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-T-lCAhEyZdU.html and go through the rotor timing step. If you have the shims on the wrong side the measurements will be WAY off, and you will know to switch the shims to the other side. You may have to get a shim pack and slightly change what you already have, but usually the stock Detroit Diesel shims at least get you close. Good luck with your build!
On my aluminum carb adapter I cut it out on my table saw with a carbide blade. For the square openings for the carbs I used a hole saw for the round corners, then I cut the center out with my hand held Jig saw. On the side of the carb adapter for linkage clearance first I drill holes for round corners then I finished cutting out the indentations on my band saw. To smooth out all the saw cuts I used my table router and carefully guiding the adapter by hand then I cleaned it up with a file. I polished it to a brilliant shine with 2500 wet sandpaper and counter sunk the bolt holes. I needed a 1/2" adapter to keep this 8-71 and carbs under the hood of my 56 Caddy with a 500 cid. I have a 1 1/2" clearance under the hood for affixing side mounted air cleaners. I'm so happy.
See if this link works: s6dc2dc82dd3d959c.jimcontent.com/download/version/1549459688/module/8251750215/name/Detroit%20Diesel%20Engine%20Series%2071%20Service%20Manual.pdf
I called Dyers several times with no answer, emailed them stating that I intended to buy an 8-71 kit from them and never got any response. Called BDS and got a far superior blower for just a little more money and it arrived in a week. Dyers can pound sand.
What a shame that Dyers appears to have gone downhill in recent years. They used to be the go-to guys in the Midwest, but I guess any business can decline over time. Hope that you get great results with your kit from Blower Drive Service.
I expect that they had a fixture to help them lock case to wall clearances, after which they would drill the dowel pins in. Rotor timing is changed with shims for production units, so a human can change those in a minute or two, if he does it all the time on the line.
How is this setup years later? Also, did you do all the wiring and setting up yourself? Thats a damn good job. Once i have fun with my new old series 1, i will probably cnc it just for the heck. Or maybe just buy a cnc machine. eh.
Perfect timing to ask. Yes, I did all the control design and wiring myself. The Bridgeport is two or three days away from being reassembled, and put back in service. I moved into a fantastic new house 2 1/2 years ago, and I have finally gotten to the stage of wiring and setting up my new shop! My new shop area has tripled in size, and I am really looking forward to making parts again. Yes, the Bridgeport was working excellent up until the point that we moved out of our old house. About a year before I moved, I upgraded to a Mesa Electronics FPGA control card, to get me a way from the parallel control, which let me run a modern computer. All of the machine tools will have their own separate room from the rest of the shop, and now I have nice big aisles to have room to move. I may start posting new videos once I get the shop back set up. Thanks for watching!
@@MakerCave Thats awesome, are you telling me the bridgeport was dissasembled for 2 and a half years??! That sucks! i would be itching to set it up again. Thats great to be able to have a large shop. thats my goal. What kind of stuff do you make? Do you take jobs or is it more of a hobby? If you dont mind me asking. Ill be looking forward to the videos, thanks!
Right on! The only reason that I made my pullers for this is because I have tons of that flat aluminum scrap, and I wanted to learn "ramping", and "tabs" in Fusion 360. Under normal circumstances, yes, the cheapie steering wheel puller is just fine for a low load pull like this. Thanks!
Yes, it might seem like that at first glance, but consider why the ribs are there in the first place. 1. When the case was originally cast, these ribs provide channels for the aluminum to more easily flow into both sides of the pattern in the core box. 2. During final machining of the casting, the ribs provide additional stability to the casting, and to help keep the boring and surfacing tools from chattering when the case is machined. It would have been extra, unnecessary work for GMC to do an additional operation on the case to remove the ribs after manufacturing is complete, so even though they are no longer needed after original assembly, the ribs are left in place. Once the blower is bolted on, the intake manifold provides a giant support surface, and the large center ribs still remain, so the case is quite stable, and there are no appreciable loads trying to "spread" the case in the areas where the casting ribs are removed. Independent of these things, hot rodders have been removing these ribs since the 1940's and the current blower manufacturers make their cases without these ribs, even for very high horsepower applications. This all confirms that the minor ribs are redundant, and can be safely removed in gasoline engine applications. Thanks for watching!
Q: why can we not use the shims on a petrol application? Will they burn out? Changing rotor timing? Also I don't have a lathe and am miles from civilization. I am thinking of using a sheet metal plate 0.8-1.2mm thick to space the rotor ends from the end plate for grow room. Kina like a thick gasket but between the housing and endplate.
If it is not a racing application, I would not hesitate to use the shims to time the rotors. I only machined the back of my gears to time the rotors because I have all of the proper equipment to do so, and then next time I tear the blower down, I don't have to worry about juggling shims. You do not need to put any shim stock or gaskets between the end plates and the blower case. The two existing flat surfaces seal fine as they are with only a light coat of sealer. As long as the end clearance is correct, that provides all the room for heat growth that you need. Good luck getting your blower together!
Thanks for watching, Chuck. Unfortunately I do have a full time corporate job that keeps me too busy to do hobby work for hire. However, check with Dyers Blowers out of Chicago. They do excellent work, and can get you taken care of.
@@raymorrison919 I have never intentionally assembled one backwards, but I have heard that mixture distribution is affected, but can't testify to that firsthand.
ever hear a rattling noise inside one of the rotors? I'm working on a 4v71 and one of the lobes sounds like its got something about the weight of a soda cap moving around inside it, but I cant see it from either end
Boy, it sure sounds like someone drove a cup plug into the inside cavity of the rotor at some point in the past. Do you already have one of the end plugs out to look inside, or are you trying to look down through the center holes in the shafts, which I recall both being blind holes?
@@MakerCave thanks for the reply.. yeah it seems one is loose inside the lobe; I actually tried putting a magnet on each lobe and whatever is in there is ferrous as i can get it to stick to the magnet! I guess it should be extracted
@@MakerCave well curiosity got the best of me, I popped out one of the rotor caps and found a piece of what looks to be the drive pin was broken off and loose inside the rotor.. I was able to shake it out. How concerned would you be? Maybe that was an old one? Both factory roll pins look intact from the side and are still peened
@@MillersMotors The front roll pin is the one under load, so that is the one that you should look at first. It sounds like there is only one roll pin in front, and one in the rear on your rotors, like a stock detroit blower right off the truck, correct? If so, it might be a good idea to do a trial assembly of the blower, and wedge the rotor from turning by putting a plastic hammer handle between the rotor and the case. Then thread a bolt into the end of the front of the stub shaft and put a wrench on the hex of the bolt. Try really hard to see if the stub shaft will rotate inside the rotor. That would tell you if the pin is sheared off. If the stub shaft ever does rotate inside the rotor, rotor timing is lost, and the rotors will touch and destroy themselves quickly. It is very unusual for a diesel to shear drive pins as there is not much load there. You will want to add a second pin up front anyway, so if the existing pin passes the "rotate" test, and you add the second pin, I would not get too worried about it. The most likely source of the pin fragment is an error during factory assembly, and a 4-71 does not put much load on the pins anyway, with those short rotors, so the odds of you spinning that stub shaft become pretty small. Good luck!
@@MakerCave thanks so much!! I have a feeling the pin sheared when pushing the rotor out of the rear bearing either by me or a previous repair, if that’s possible.. I was pushing the rotor out of the bearing when I noticed the noise start, not sure if it just got dislodged while working of if I broke it though.. the front pin is definitely good, I will try your test to see if it slips before I get much further.. I notice one lobe on the rear looks to have a sheet metal cap in the blind hole, and the other looks to have a threaded slug / plug. The one with the pin chunk was the one with the plug
Detroit Diesel sells over size shaft sleeves and Teflon seals, plus the tools to install both. Blowers are simple to rebuild just pay close attention to clearances and shims behind drive gears. Never seen anyone cut the backside of the gears always used shims. good luck sir
I recall that the small bore case has two side tabs, and the earlier large bore case has a single long side tab. I am referring to the tab that is milled off in this video. By the way, the case in this video is a small bore. I will try to go down to the shop this weekend to confirm that my memory is correct. Thanks!
One of my other videos happens to address that question. Check out this video, and you will see what I used to retrofit, including my surplus servos. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ou-R44toyUs.html Thanks for watching!
Can you unbolt the front bearing plate, and pull it and the rotors from the case as an assembly? Where are they stuck? Are they stuck in the front bearing plate, or are they stuck in the rear bearing plate? What have you taken apart so far?
Very nice video! I'm actually about to do a 8v92 and will be referencing this video! I also really like your home made fly cutter. That was trick and simple.
Nice job. I may have missed installing dowel,pins and relocating them to adjust top and bottom clearances . A number of ways to do this and repairing over size or wallowed out holes was done in the early days. At times it was a tricky operation.as you might only have to move holes a few thousandths of an inch. I made a separate end plate with hard bushings fo guiding drills or readers. Occasionally a hole could get deformed and it became very difficult to over size or drill and ream for a repair bushing. Having a milling machine and boring head made life much easier. It still took precision work to do correctly. A bad backfire or motor explosion could distort the cas so that meant a new unit. These used to be available for 50-100 bucks in good shape an sometime you could find a near new one that’s had many hours on it but very clean air cleaners so they might be near perfect inside. I had several streetrods I drove for years an I built several more for other guys. We ran these on top fuel dragsters and top gas cars then top alsohol funny cars. Noe most of these are billet construction so perfect when new. They usually have nylatron strips in the seal areas and depend on the fuel for a bit of cooling and lubrication. No fees are very good but better than none.
Very cool stories from the golden days of drag racing. Yes, the dowel pin part of the project is outlined in the part 13 video, here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ke2DrtZA4g0.html
With all this machine work a person needs all these tool and there is such precision for a safe useable 671. There is no way a novitiate, especially without machining equipment could even possibly refurbish a diesel to gas, no way. I would trust you building one for me if this is something you would consider doing. How would I be able to talk with you. I am 71 years old and now that I have gone through watching what it takes to do this I am beside myself to what I originally thought... My email address is doctraveler7@gmail.com.. I have no idea where to turn if you do not work on for the public. Maybe others on here know as you suggested don't try this unless you know what you are doing take it to a blower mechanic That does not tell me where to find such a mechanic that is trust worthy and as precise as you are showing here. I am sure there are mechanic or machinist out there that will say they can do it but really do not now how and i do not need to blow up my motor or kill myself from it coming apart at high speeds.. Actually learning how difficult this is, is very depressing.. I now have to find someone or ask if you will do an outside job. Please contact me by my personal email verse putting your reply on public view.
If you have a blower to convert or rebuild, call the guys at Dyers Blowers in Chicago (Summit) Illinois. www.dyersblowers.com/ I have dealt with them for parts and assistance in the past and they are top notch. Unfortunately I don't take in outside work, as my Corporate job, (and a new house with lots of acreage!) keeps my schedule full, leaving me just enough time for my own hobbies. Thanks for watching!
After assembling a few of these I learned that if you bevel the leading edge of the seal surface with a fine lathe file then polish it theres no need for seal protectors and the bearings can be pressed in on a surface with support rather than tapping them in after with only the case supporting it. Sometimes they go in really tight especially on some of the after market plates I have purchased. Your able to check and make sure bearings are still smooth before pressed on rotor as well. Cheers love these videos
Why can’t someone do a video just like this for a TRD 3.4 Litre Suprcharger, or rather just an Eaton M62 supercharger rotor pack FRONT baring /seal change and assemble
Hello, recently discovered this video while trying to rebuild my own whipple supercharger. Do you have any suggestions on how to determine how much rotor timing/clearance I should have? Factory won't get back to me with this information. My whipple S/C has a ring gear on the one rotor with 6 bolts that can be loosened so you can adjust the clearance without removing the entire hub. My current thought process was with a dial indicator mounted to the hub to just put it in the middle of the clearance, is it this simple or are there specific tolerances? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Great, I have disassembled a series 1 2J Bridgeport I'm in the process of moving to my basement shop. I have everything down there with the exception of, you guessed it the knee and the base. Wish me luck!
Funny you should mention. I just bought a new house, and MY Bridgeport will need to be disassembled in about 3 weeks, rigged and moved again! Fortunately, the new house has an open stairwell to the basement, from the garage, so it will be much easier to get it into its new location. Good luck with your move of the base!
@@MakerCave Thanx, I got the Knee moved now since I posted that comment, thankfully it was uneventful! Look into using a wrecker to move the unit from house to house, I found out the hard way it's so much easier
here's a shortcut to c and cc clearance adjustment. no need to push the gears on several times. even with new parts. start both gears on the shaft. tap them sufficiently to prevent them falling off. measure the c and cc, tap one gear or the other until proper clearance is achieved. now take the depth mic or calipers, measure the difference in height from one gear to the other gear. that's how much shim to add. do not ask how i figured this out. (hanging head in shame it took so long).
Thanks for this tip! It’s so simple and makes perfect sense! Why didn’t I think of it?! I’m in the process of converting my first 6-71 and will definitely do this.
Sorry, I didn't do any kind of procedure for someone else to duplicate this when I built it about 10 years ago. I have all my part numbers logged and some design notes, but this was not a commercial, mass production effort. Just a hobbiest doing a "step and direction" conversion using currently available standard components, to replace very outdated electronics. Thanks!
I have read over many patents over the years, and have assisted with writing few, so fortunately I am familiar with the format and can usually skim through these pretty quickly. This patent is very cool in terms of where it falls in manufacturing history. It was filed by Eaton Corporation in 1985, during the time frame where they would have been doing the initial development work on the M62/M90 series superchargers. Eaton would begin supplying these blowers to Ford, GM and other OEM's about 5 years after this patent was submitted. This patent shows that they were acutely aware that hand assembly and clearancing of their new blowers would not be practical, and that they needed a fixture to get rotors rapidly phased during mass production assembly. The hardware and methods shown in the patent don't readily translate into doing final assembly of a 6-71 for a Hot Rod, but they are a very interesting window into what type of development was happening in manufacturing 30+ years ago. Thanks!
