Hello my name is Zaki. I am a guy who likes to work with wood steel and all kinds of materials, so i decided to film it and post it here. I hope you will watch and enjoy :D
All of my videos are copyrighted and my property. They cannot be used, redistributed or published without my permission.
After nearly 40 years of bow building, I gotta ask... These "shinto rasps" seem to be in "high favor" nowadays....(as compared to a farrier's rasp)...should I stick with the farrier's or just throw it away...or is there a place for both in the arsenal?
traditional puukko has handle and the blade same length, usually palm width of person it is made for. or that is how our teacher told how it is done. i still have that knife i made after 35 years bit small, but still does it's job.
Warum ein neues Sägeblatt zerschneiden für Pfeilspitzen ? Warum die Spitzen härten wenn das Sägeblatt bereits gehärtet ist ? Ansonsten schön gemacht ..
western plains arrows were always barrel shafted. and they always had a bulbous nock. they would use the thicker end of the shaft (the end closer to the ground) and trimmed down the shaft from that end creating a barrel shaft and the bulbous nock. the reason for the bulbous nock was for the various "pinch" grips western plains indians used. the barreled shaft is aerodynamically superior . i have restored old western plains indian arrows (Sioux) and they were all barrel shafted with bulbous nocks.
if you begin to straighten your shafts as they dry by the time they are dry they will need almost no heat straightening. if you use "arrow wood" ( viburnum dentatum, also called nannyberry) you will have to leave the bark on while they dry otherwise they will split. but red willow and wild cherry can be debarked right after you cut them. each day unbundle the shafts and begin to bend out the crooks. for the first week or so they will not respond to the straightening but by week two they will. after about a month (or even less depending on how warm the room is ) the shafts should be perfectly straight.
Elm is a good wood but wavy grain that tends to rip out and chasing a ring if you have to is very difficult with elm but hickory is easy. In any case with elm as well as hickory you can fire harden the belly side. Its makes the bow incredibly much better. One good thing with elm it will never snap completely in half but rather break and fold. Its a pretty tough wood. I recommend fire hardening half way through the bow. As you fire harden you can even backset it a bit over your knee. Carefull not to go to hard and start breaking it though. You really don’t need to back an elm bow. Its pretty well solid.
Wow beautiful lil bow. I notice you only put knocks on one side of your bow. Is that to avoid the bowyer's paradox? Will that cause your limbs to warp to one side over time?
Do you use Krazy glue to glue your arrow heads together I strongly recommend do not doing it because it has a tendency to let loose in cold weather anything below
You should try shooting with a pinch grip. That’s how many First Nations shot their bows. Plus many arrows will have a bit of a ledge carved in near where the arrow knock is for the pinch grip. Great arrow!
..Your video is so real i think i need to blow the dust from my nose. i saw something like that but they used old thread spools, yours is Much better, well done sir...!
