RMA garage is a channel dedicated to making the viewer more knowledgeable about owning and operating dirt bikes in an urban environment. We live in suburbia with no place to ride so we have to pay for a membership to a local (1 hour away) ATV park. Our house is small and space is a premium. We believe that there are more of you out there that would love to ride dirt bikes but are not sure if you can do it.
We have also thrown in other helpful videos about our RV, autos and everyday how to for good measure. I use RU-vid on every project and I want to give back on things we have learned and where RU-vid lacks content.
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I'm switching from an oversized tank to a stock tank and the stock tank has a coupler to the front. Manual says it's a "fuel sending unit" but the coupler doesn't plug in to anywhere I can see, and I don't see one dangling off your bike. Think I'm going to just reconnect the two connections at the fuel pump and call it a day.
I just used one of these on my 2023 tx300 and oil sprayed out with the force of god. Kinda made me nervous why there's so much pressure to spray oil out, I guess we'll see if it leaks again on the next ride
@RMAGarage that's what I figured after a bunch of oil sprayed out. Can't quite understand the physics of air somehow building up inside a sealed fork. Either way I definitely should have loosened the top little screw to purge the air.
I wish I could have purchase that type rack, but I decided to do a carbon frame set and didn't really want the retention arms pressing against my frame. So question, have you noticed any rub marks on your carbon frame?
If I have a bike on the rack and I want to protect the frame, I just use a soft cloth or something that won't scratch the frame and place it between the arm and frame.
@@RMAGarage Yeah I could use a section of pool noodle or some soft cloth for sure. However I chose to not make that an option, so I attach/retain at the tires. That way I don't have anything that can scuff my frame. As for has anything scrapped my frame, the answer would be no. Also, I could have saved a ton of money if I had went your route.
@@gregchamberlain7554 Glad you were able to make an educated decision based on information presented. That is why I Love RU-vid. Good Info out there to ponder and know before you buy.
@@RMAGarage I can't say that I haven't used You Tube to get other user opinions before. However this wasn't one of those times. When I first saw those type of racks that you reviewed, honestly I had them on the lower ranks of something to consider for moving a bicycle. And there was no initial urgency, since I had a rack for the Specialized I owner at the time. Until I changed bicycles I had a Saris top tube styled rack, and it was only then I switched to a SystemSix that I look closer at how I would haul it around.
I'm finding a lot of posts on Fiesta forums showing the amount isn't a good recommendation from manufacturer. Many folks, including Whoosh Motorsports recommends a full 2 qts.
I'm pretty sure I'm not the first one but you do realize that no you do not absolutely under any circumstances want to take the original break off because guess what if the chain breaks at high speed he has no break
I feel your tire/ramp problem is your bike's long wheelbase. Can't change that. What you can do is bolt on two tabs at each end of the carrier that you can run a rod/bolt through to move the ramp's attachment point outward. Now you place and remove your ramp with ease.
Well.....I plan on keeping mine in the heated garage. My only idea would be to run some RV anti-freeze through the pump prior to storing. Not sure how I would do it but I would start there.
Nice, but... four straps on the front of the bike means they are all trying to pull the bike backward off the rack (as well as down into the wheel slots). You want the same kind of opposing tension front and back that you have side to side.
The industry should have created a steel backer for the screws to go through. Would take no time with a hacksaw and welder to make. just sad all that bowing of the vans roof attached to the upper bed/overhang.
I am in the process of fixing mine right now. This is a horrible design - the screws into thin aluminum tubing is destined to fail. I am going to use #10 threaded screws and lock nuts. The screw head will have to be countersunk into the wood so that the heads don't stick up into the bunk area floor.
How often would you do this procedure? After every Rod or every muddy ride? Just not sure how long the seals will last poking the seal doctor in there after every ride?
I only clean mine after a muddy ride. I agree with you as you do not want to clean all the time. More chances of damaging the seals. Thanks for the question.
Great video if your already in there I’d be replacing the seals and bushes regardless if there damaged there inexpensive And it doesn’t take much to have a leaking fork seal I’d hate to get it all back together and it starts leaking straight away or a week later just replace them and your good for another 100 hours
Just hooked my battery tender junior and its flashing red,I have a BMW C650 GT. The battery is a bear to get to about 6 or 7 bolts to pull off the right side panel.Is it getting juice to the battery?low voltage? not sure...Thank you.
Flashing red means that it is not charging and battery is not connected. You need to check the connections to the battery. Here are what the lights mean: RED LIGHT FLASHING - The red light flashing indicates that the battery charger has AC power available and that the microprocessor is functioning properly. If the red light continues to flash, then either the battery voltage is too low (less than 3 volts) or the output alligator clips or ring terminals are not connected correctly. RED LIGHT ON STEADY - Whenever the red light is on steady, a battery is connected properly and the charger is charging the battery. The red light will remain on until the charger completes the charging stage. GREEN LIGHT FLASHING -When the green light is flashing, and the red light is on, the battery is greater than 80% charged and may be removed from the charger and used if necessary. Whenever possible, leave the battery on charge until the green light is solid. GREEN LIGHT ON STEADY -When the green light stops flashing and burns steady, the charge is complete and the battery can be returned to service if necessary. It can also stay connected to maintain the battery for an indefinite period of time Hop this helps.
Hey, great vid! A question.. What if I accidentaly poured the oil into the center of fork? When I placed the push rod most of the oil came out of course.. And I thought it probably doesnt mattet if theres oil or no. So.. Does it matter? Thanks!
I am not sure what would happened or if it will cause damage. I'm sorry as I do not have any experience with that. I guess I would try and get as much of the oil out buy holding it upside down. You might to check with a suspension guy and maybe he can tell you how to handle it. Sorry, not much help.
I feel like my coach batteries are not connected correctly. There is no cable on the left positive post. There are the red and black which connect the two together. The negative on the left battery has one other cable. On the right battery there are two cables to the red post and one to the black. Does this sound right? I’m Asking as I just drove for 4 hours and the house batteries were dead when I arrived.
I am not an expert on RV wiring, but I can compare your set up to mine. If you would like to email several photos of the battery box to dirtbikedad48@gmail.com I can look at it and see if I can offer any help. If I cannot I will let you know.
I just discovered this same issue with my 2017 Coachman Freelander. I am the third owner and a previous owner just squirted Silicone sealant in the gap. I will be doing this repair with countersunk bolts coming down from the bunk, and washers with lock nuts on the bottom side (I am afraid that new screws will eventually back out just like the factory ones did).
Full disclosure, the rack was given to me by the manufacurer for a review. I did the review then gave it away to a needy bicycler. I actually got it back from the first person because they did not need it and then gave it away again to another needy biker who had no rack. I just wanted to pass it along. I myself do not need a rack as I have a truck and my wife uses a rack she had had for a few years prior to the one I reviewed.
Very well done that is one of the most thorough videos I have ever watched. What is the bolt size for the anti-wobble mechanism? Would you also get an anti-wobble bracket? Do you know the weight capacity for the rack as I have two e-bikes. Where is the best place to get the rack?
First, I do not have the rack anymore so I cannot tell you the bolt size but I am fairly positive is is 5/8" because that is what most hitch pin sizes are and that is the size on our car in the video. As for the capacity the directions did not indicate the maximum weight but I would only put 100 pounds total weight on the rack. that would be 50 pounds per bike or one bike if over 50 pounds. I have updated the amazon link in the video description below the video. Just clink on the link and it will take you to Amazon. Hope this helps.
My bike is a shorter wheelbase, so one wheel doesn't fall into a groove. So I use velcro straps to tie down the wheels. I have the additional 90 degree hitch adjustment, so I can flip my rack up against the tailgate and out of the way when not in use. I put my loading ramp on the other side or out side of the bike rack, so when I flip it up, it doesn't hide the license plate below. Thanks for the recommendation for the hitch to rack tightener. That'll work on my 90 degree adapter also!
Here is the link to there website. (hdmoto.com/moto/shift-levers). It is very important that you buy the billet shifter and not the forged. The forged is softer material and will strip over time. The billet is harder material and will stand up better.
I'm curious why there is another valve you can open/close by the black tank. Can you explain why I might leave that open vs closed when I'm not dumping the tanks? The person I am buying my RV from said he was told it should always be open. Thanks!
So the two valves are unique to the 260DS and you will want to open and cloase them in the following way. When you are ready to dump the black tank, open the value furthest away from the tank first. Then you will want to open the valve closest to the tank second. When you are done dumping the order of closing is reversed. The value closest to the tank is closed first the the one furthest away is second. The reason for the two values is because the black tank is on the passenger side of the RV and all dump stations will be to the drivers side of the RV. When you look under the RV you will see the black pipe that runs the full width of the RV from passenger side to drivers side. You never want to leave the valve closest to the black tank opened because "effuent" will be stored in the cross over pipe which is a bad for the whole system. Just think of the crossover pipe as a means of tranfer only. Hope this helps.
Once again, thanks for this video! I just purchased this RV and it has not been de-winterized so that's my first project. Then using the bleach to clean the lines.
I just bought a 2017 Leprechaun 260DS so thanks for this video. Now I know where the drain is for the tank and that hand pump looks like it will come in handy.
I do not believe this is universal. If I remember correctly, this was for predator motors only. You can call OMB Warehouse if you have a different motor (www.ombwarehouse.com). Thanks for the question.
Great job! Just purchased a 2015 Coachmen Freelander 19CB with a lot of noise between the chassis and the box/coach in the same area. The video is a great tutorial and a huge help. Great choice with the new fasteners. I saw the other video where they came loose a bit, probably would be a good idea to add some Loctite. Thanks you guys!!
So RV Approved means that the manufacturer of the rack has tested it for RV use. If you have ever ridden in a RV, It sorta bounces down the road. With the rack being in the back, it tends to take the abuse of the movement. For this reason, racks need to be over designed with thicker metal and larger welds. The black widow rack it technically not a beefier design so we risk having it break while traveling. I have never gotten any feed back from anyone who has used this rack on an RV so there is no data to support this. We are just going on the word of the manufacturer.
Hi Just found your channel. Do you still have this RV? I am interested in purchasing one like yours. Has it held up well over the few years you have had it? We have a Coachman Travel Trailer that has been a great camper. Need something we can pull a boat with. Thank you for all the awsome ideas!
We still have the RV and we have enjoyed it very much. The reason why we made the videos is because we had to fix it and make improvements. Those that I have talked to who recently bought an RV has said that it has been in the shop for small little fixes. You must expect this when you buy an RV. We chose to fix these items ourselves and to make videos to help others. To say our RV is great is true but it still requires some lovin care from time to time.
I have watched your videos and find them very informative. I have a question unrelated to your video that I hoped that you could answer. I recently bought a used 2017 Leprechaun 260 DS. My kitchen sink and shower sink do not drain at all. I have drained the grey tank using the grey drain valve on the back driver's side. But, the kitchen sink and shower still do not drain. The bathroom sink drains fine. Do you know what could cause the shower and kitchen sink to not drain?
Need a little more info. When you mean not draining, do you mean standing water in the sink and shower base? If yes, then this did happen to me. In my RV, I have trapless drains, which means that there is no "P" trap. There is a pipe with a plasitic "flap" that opens when the water runs through and then closes. It will be a straight piece of pipe about 7" long and has a larger diameter. Because of food and winterizing fluid, mine sorta glued itself shut. This would be the first thing to look for. You may need to clean it out or get a new one. Let me know how it goes....
