Advice and how-to demonstrations about remodeling, woodworking and repair topics, reviews of tools and building materials, electrical and plumbing, paints and finishing, and related content from a working contractor.
So I live in a older home and one of the fuses inside the fuse boxes just went out. Do I need to cut the power to the house before pulling the box out ?
That's not far off. In truth, either hammer can be used for any purpose, as long as the user is comfortable with it. The majority of carpenters working on framing or exterior work do typically use a straight claw. For trim work, cabinetry and woodworking, though, it's probably a mixed bag.
My kitchen soffits were completely empty except one air pipe which was angled through instead of running straight through the wall. Had to move it 5 ft over. Pain but worth it.
Possibilities include a damaged housing, debris you left behind while changing the cartridge, a new cartridge which is faulty, or improper installation. You'll have to pull the cartridge and look.
Thank you! Just pulled out my moen cartridge. My question is WHY THE HELL is it not just one solid piece of brass instead of THIS PLASTIC PIECE OF SHIT.
I have used multi-tools for years and I know how to use them in different settings but I still found your video very useful. Thanks for sharing your experience and insights with us.
This is great and very realistic. The shaft snapped on mine making it even more difficult. But at least I know my struggles getting it out is not just me
How come the Americans always use Caulk? My last plumber asked if our bath had been sealed with silicone or caulk when I wanted the bath resealed & was relieved when I said silicone, because caulk dries & cracks like ol billyo he said. Nightmare to remove as well.
You didn't mention where you are located, but it seems like we have a language barrier. "Caulk" is just a generic word for "sealant." So, there are silicone caulks, acrylic latex caulks, butyl-rubber caulks, sanded caulks, etc. In showers and tubs a silicone caulk is the appropriate choice. They also make sanded caulks meant to match sanded grout, but I don't recommend those due to lack of durability.
I’ve replaced a sink cartridge but now my bathtub won’t shut off. The cartridge will turn without shutting the water off. It’s crazy stuck right now, so I’m probably going to have to chip it away and buy another cartridge tomorrow morning. Great video.
To be honest a fuse provides better protection than a circuit breaker. A circuit breaker is just more convenient. In over fifty years as an electrician I can't tell the number of times I checked a circuit that was protected by a fuse and a circuit breaker of the same size and the fuse would be blown and the breaker would still be on. I never once saw the reverse of that.
You're overlooking modern updates, though. New houses are now required to have AFCI breakers, which provide protection not available from fuses. GFCI and AFCI breakers are also being installed in existing homes. That aside, the old fuse boxes are showing their age in terms of rust, corrosion and the aging cables often attached to them.
I might be a bit late for this but… Moen has a LIFE TIME WARRANTY on most parts. Thet replace these cartridges for free (as many as you may have installed in your home). Just FYI :D
Yes, Moen will often send out replacement cartridges if you register and ask. However, they will take their sweet time about it, so it's typically worth spending a few bucks to get the problem solved quickly.
So when you tyle do you leave the bottom of the tyle open or do you caulk it? How big of a gap do you leave between the tyle and the tub or shower pan?
I see that the drywall tapers extended their joint compound onto the Backer board ?? Doesn't seem to be a good idea no , to apply tile with thinset over drywall mud ??
It isn't a problem if you detail it correctly. First, I put the actual joint outside the wet area. So if it is a 30 inch tub I might make the end wall backerboard 32-36 inches, depending on the framing. The feathering over that joint is done in the typical way, but the edge of the feathering does not go far into the wet area. Often I have it end over the tub or pan front edge, where there will be a shower door or curtain. Finally, the compound gets one coat of primer and two finish coats of paint at a minimum. That paint is allowed to cure for several days or more. I paint the whole room before I tile, so that isn't a burden. The thinset used to set the bullnose edge tile is over the edge of the feathering, but the thinset sticks well to the cured paint. Kitchen backsplashes are often done this way too, with the wallboard and spackled joints covered with primer. If you have a concern, though, another way to handle this is to use a metal edge rather than a bullnose tile and apply Schluter membrane up to that edge. This is a modern look which may not work with all installations. You can also use Schluter membrane under bullnose tile, of course, but you'll need to get the edge perfect and you'll still need to paint the spackle underneath for the thinset used with the membrane.
All things considered it's a wise decision to repair it. I think a generous application of construction adhesive between the existing and new sistered rafter would help solidify the repair.
That's called "sistering" and it is a great way to do a repair if you nail or screw them together. The problem is that you can't always get a full length rafter into the space and sitting on top of the wall top plate.
One really inexpensive way to improve the sound quality... (and the mental heath of any folks upstairs....) would be to add insulation between the rafters before putting up the panels. 😂
Rather than fiberglass insulation I use what is known as "rock wool" in that situation. However, to really sound proof one level from another it takes a lot more than that.
I have a number of videos concerning the actual tiling process, which you should watch. The first row of tile should have a gap, typically the same width as the grout lines of the tile, and not rest directly on the tub. That gap is caulked with silicone caulk rather than grouted.
i'm just dying to know what town you are in where the gas man peeps through the basement window to read the meter! Please tell me. Excellent video by the way.
That's a great question, and you probably won't like the answer. When most condos are built, there is no thought or provision given to future maintenance or remodeling. There are exceptions, but the majority of these shared buildings are simply not designed for the long haul. There are instances, especially with plumbing or roof leaks, where multiple units are affected and there is no choice but to cut holes in a neighbor's unit in order to fix yours. This eventuality may or may not be covered in your association by-laws, and it can get messy either way. So, for access to drains, we make every effort to get access within a unit by cutting through interior walls, or using products which can be installed from above, etc. That is often successful, but it is possible that you'll need to have access from below, and therefore you'll have to ask your neighbor's permission and pay for their repairs too. A similar problem is with water shut-off. I have been in numerous condos where it was necessary to shut off the water to multiple units while we did repairs to one.
@@enduringcharm I have a washer/dryer on the other side of the plumbing wall of the shower tub. I’ll probably need to cut the side wall before I start the project to see if it’s possible to work on the side. Thanks so very much for the answer.
For holes in vertical porcelain tile, have an assistant with a spray bottle keep the work soaked. As noted, proceed slowly and remove the bit often and spray inside the hole.
I have the same exact problem. Mine is a water line that feeds out to the detached garage. When we have heavy rain water will come through the hole the water line is ran through. My question is should i fill the hole after the repair with hydraulic cement jusg above the water line or use crushed rock?
Are you asking how to handle the exterior of the building in this area? If so, you'll want to dig down to find where the line comes in, and then repair the hole in the foundation as shown in the video. Then to backfill you can used crushed rock for drainage, but you also want to be careful not to encourage water to gather there. So you'll need to examine the rest of the area for ground pitch and perhaps to see if the water pipe has become a conduit along it's whole length. In other words, don't just consider the area of the pipe through the foundation in isolation, look at the whole problem.
In this case I believe I did paint over the hinges and then take some of it back off. But, you could easily go the other way. It really depends on the hinge, since you don't want a shiny new surface next to your distressed cabinet doors. You could distress brass, or you could choose a matte finish nickel too.
Awesome video! I’m doing repairs and extending garage that has 1x8” 105 profile lap siding (pine). Are there additional steps that you would recommend? Thanks again
We call that "drop siding" or "novelty siding" in my area. The same principles apply. I would be extra cautious about back priming, since all of today's pine lumber is very poor quality and warping could be an issue. Thicker siding also means it can soak up more water on the end cuts, so be certain about priming those too. Mark your studs prior to siding installation so you are sure to hit them. There will be more weight with pine drop siding than with cedar bevel.
