Walker Turner is a very important name in my history. My friend's father taught us about Walker Turners. tHanks for this great video. Wishing everyone a peaceful Memorial Day
I don't know about that head, but I know on old electric motors a flip cap like that is for adding oil. Typically, oil was added on motors that used babbitt instead of ball bearings. Also, you can remove the bearing seal on the side of the bearing that gets the grease and just grease it like you would have the old ones. I put new bearings on my riding mower, replacing the old bushings with them and they were sealed. I removed the seal on the side of the bearing facing the old grease fitting (zerk) for the bushings and I can keep them greased that way instead of relying on the seals.
As a tool maker/machinist POV.. A small amount of thread locker on the outside and inside race would take out all the play that your feeling. It's used in the industry for that. I like that you didn't repaint it. It looks better with the original finish. The drill press will last another 100 yrs if taken care of.
Yes, I've used thread locker on bearings before, especially in automotive and small engine applications. There is a downside to that, though, which is that you make it difficult for the next bearing replacement.
Thanks for posting this. Very useful and appreciated. You seemed to avoid the chuck removal which would have made the bearing situation easier -though finding the correct spanners can be a task.
That was a case of picking my battles! I didn't want to open another can of worms, and the chuck was fine. The bearings really weren't that difficult to remove--certainly I've had motorcycle and truck bearings give me a lot more grief.
Older bearings were made with tighter tolerances. I have experienced this too with new bearings fitting loose, on most of their website, they have options to get bearings with different tolerance levels that equates to loose fit, push fit or even higher interference fit. Good to measure the old bearings with a micrometer to be sure.
I know, even though you can do some servicing on newer tools, finding parts is a struggle almost immediately and the housings and other components wear out beyond their worth anyway.
It's amazing how this unit is still in good shape after so many years. I guess that's what they mean by "American made". I wonder how today's imports will look after 80 years.
5:35 I see your knuckle got cut pretty bad. It's not a project or job for me if I don't bleed. 😜 Once you get a band aid on it, you can use those finger bandage guards to secure it. Cut the fingertip off one to get it that far. I haven't used mine yet, but I know they'll come in handy one day. What I do for part numbers like on the bearing is take a picture with my phone so I can zoom in on it to read it more clearly. Getting a picture in full focus is the thing. Rubbing some of that grease in the stamped/imprinted numbers/letters will make it easier to read when you zoom in. Great job, John! I probably wouldn't pain it, either. If you decide to do something about the slop from the new bearings, you mentioned Teflon tape, but a thin piece of paper might be easier to work with. Teflon tape may not stay where you want it to while seating the bearings. It may bundle up, smoosh on top and not get under the bearing. You could cut tabs in the paper to fold over the top to help keep it in place while you position the bearing in place. A couple dabs of Loctite on the shaft about a bearing-length just before the stopping point might do as well. Good luck with that however you do it.
Actually, I think I lost my knuckle when I took a break and was working on one of my motorcycles! It's not a productive day unless I'm bleeding somewhere, I guess.
