My dad had 2 mercruiser IO boats and they were nothing but trouble with overheating.Unfortunately, he was not mechanically inclined. His limitations stoped with flushing the engine.
I am about to do this to my boat, it sounds like a dripping faucet behind the motor, raised the drive and found a thumb sized hole, for the record black RTV lasted one season, if you are in a pinch and do not want to pull the drive right away!
Perfect video. About 1 hour for someone who hates auto repair. One mistake I made was on the install of the new light. I pulled off the lower light clip on the new light to connect it and couldn't get it on the plastic molding (not enough space to push it on with hand). I had to unhook the wiring and remove the new light to reattach the clip, then plug it in.
I did this job on my boat, it was a pain in the ass. I had to do it twice, the first time, I couldn't get everything lined up before the glue got too dry. The second time around, I glued the bellows on the outdrive side first, then the bearing side - I found it to be easier this way.
The splines on the out drive need to line up with the engine. Make sure battery is disconnected first. Then have someone slightly move the prop left and right to move the splines while slightly pushing the out drive forward in to the engine. Moving the prop left and right will help line up the splines.
We have done that multiple times over the past week. I am able to slide the alignment tool in with minimal effort but once I try the drive I only can get it to go in to a certain spot just outside the bolts. Only once have I had it in far enough so I could not turn the prop then I knew I was splined. I sure that it’s an alignment issue but I can not tell what direction to go with the mounting nuts. Nothing changes after I adjust the nuts up or down. I am still able to push the alignment tool into the bearing and then onto the coupler with minimal change in the effect.
@@ontheone9559Ok. It still sounds like your drive shaft on the outdrive isn't getting properly lined up with the splines in the engine. I had to move my prop quite a bit to get it lined up. And once the outdrive shaft is in, it should turn freely unless your outdrive is in gear (I think, I'm not 100% on this.). I would recommend taking your issues over to the forums in iboats. TONS of knowledge there and I use that forum for my boat questions.
Nice Job. You mentioned needing a larger torque wrench but did not give the torque value for the pins. It's been a while since you posted but could you update. Thanks
Boat is now 3 hours from me so let me see what I can find. Did this many years ago. And sadly the amp failed but running the wires was by far the hardest part. Lots of new cuss words were invented.
Drilled a small hole in the top plate of the boat, inserted a rubber grommet, then ran it from inside the boat wall to the amp that is located in front of the steering wheel in the cubby.
How did you put the exhaust bellow so no clamp just just a clip? How did you install it? My exhaust bellow came off seems like they just used contact cement or glue before.
@@ninjapatton The end of the exhaust bellow Goes inside the lip not over the lip.. As to why it doesn’t come with the bottom clamp so how do you put one on?
@@jayrico95 Mine goes over the lip, and my Sx-m shop manual shows it going over the lip and also shows the clamps. If I could post a photo of the manual I would.
First time was about 4.5 hours, but I also went really slow and that includes half hour to build the out drive cart. Now that I have some tips and tricks, can probably do it in under 2.
How did you crack the lower flathead plug? Mine is wicked tight and I’m not sure the best way to approach it. Seems like the flathead design was a terrible choice.
I used the biggest flathead i could find. You could also put a wrench on the screwdriver and have someone lightly tap the handle of the screw driver while you’re turning.
Man this setup is exactly what we have been looking for for our boat. If you still have any pics of the install I would truly appreciate it. Looks pretty straightforward but just so I’m not completely out of left field on trying this. Thanks!
So I don’t have any pics. Basically the hardest part was running the speaker wire up the tube from the boat to the top of the Bimini. I drilled holes in the bottom and top of the metal pole and used plastic weed-eater line to get to the holes. I found it easier to go from top to bottom. It was a pita. Had to make the bottom hole a little larger and finally was able to grab the line with a paint can opener. Then attached the speaker wire with black tape and fished back through. The speakers had mounts that required me to use a bike tube to create resistance. After drilling I filed down the holes then inserted rubber grommets from harbor freight. Drilled a small hole in the top plate of the boat near where the Bimini tube was and ran another grommet in the fiberglass and then ran the wires around to the cubby in front of the steering wheel. For the amp I ran the main power direct to the batter but also used a toggle switch at the helm to power on and off.
so I'm here in 2021 because my gimbal bearing bellows (same SX outdrive) cracked which (I guess) allowed water in and washed all the grease out of the bearing which then self-destructed in violent fashion, ruining the transom assembly..... sad face. Wish I had caught that cracked bellows sooner.
Nice job! What you did for me is convince me that I really probably DON'T want to do this myself. LOL! I also don't recall seeing you actually remove the rubber bellows themselves. I was curious as to their shape/cracks. Then you kind of jumped past the actual install of the replacement bellows too. I guess those are a pretty straight forward install once you're to that point. Off topic: I'd like to know what you think about those self-leveling trim tabs it looks like you have installed. Thanks!
My bellows were actually in really good shape. The install was very straight forward. I edited some of it out because all you could see was the back of my head. The trim tabs are awesome. Made a ton of difference in getting on plane. Worth the $100.
I read these comments,....I had a rubber bellows not a plastic bellows. Inside the rubber bellows is a wire coil you need to remove. Maybe you do need to remove the pivot bolts if you have a plastic bellows but I'd avoid doing it if possible. Get a rubber bellows, not a plastic one.
Yeah, I wish there was a way to replace the bellows without removing the pivot bolts and housing but I don’t know how to do it. Would save time and knuckles.
No need to remove the pivot pins to change the bellows. Not sure about other types of drives but this bellows is held on by a hose clamp at the transom and a groove at the other end. Access through the right side by turning it all the way to the left and pull it out through the side. Those pivot pins should be left alone.
I was just following the Volvo service manual. And not sure I could have gotten the U-joint bellow off without removing the pivot pins, not to mention being able to grease the gimbal bearing. I've heard some mercruiser guys say they don't have to remove their pivot pins, which leaves me jealous.
I'm about to do this. The new style gimbal bellows are not very flexible at all and look like a p.i.t.a. to install without removal of the pivot housing. I'm hoping I can because I don't feel like locating a new tool that I will use once.
ps convert neuton-meters to ft lbs. metric to English, lol. nice fresh water drive. I'm in the salt, they never will look like that unless the boat is never stored in the water.
Suggestions: safety goggles when removing snap ring in case it flies off Smear OMC/Evinrude grease on the mating surfaces of both the pivot housing and the drive, this prevents corrosion that can lock it in place break loose the pivot pins before removing the drive, impact gun works well I could do it just with hand tools I used OMC/Evinrude gasket sealer on the threads I don't think there is any need for thread locker regardless of what Volvo says. the older style all rubber bellows were asymmetric there was one more fold on one side, that faces down to relieve strain when you tilt up, not sure if the newer style with the hard plastic does also. I have an OMC Cobra but the procedure is almost identical except on the Cobra you do not have to disconnect the shift cable, and there is a gasket between the drive and the pivot housing. Great video.
A helpful hint on removing the pivot bolts. While the drive is still attached along with the trim cylinders, you can break the torque and the locktite. The drive will not move up on you when you take to either bolt with your extension. Just break the torque and the bond. When it comes to removing them later you’ll have no problem.
@@ninjapatton Yeah I am about to do the same job. Took a look at my unit after I watched your video to see if I would have a problem removing those two bolts. I took to them with the 1/2 square drive and a long extension and I was able to break torque pretty easily without the drive riding up. I know I’ll have no issues when it comes to doing the job. Enjoyed your video by the way!
Thanks for this video. I am getting ready to embark on this project. Am I missing the exhaust bellows on your parts list or is it included in the bellows kit part. I can't figure it out from the descriptions online. Thanks
Forgot to put it in the list: Part 3850426 www.marinepartssource.com/volvo-penta-sx-exhaust-bellows-volvo-penta-3850426?gclid=Cj0KCQjwpNr4BRDYARIsAADIx9yHHOVhMCBCqs4NF4CRiWSnj805OVb_s3FzGRt-F7PZncOG9-PXWKQaAkCcEALw_wcB
