Nice work, I have the same scooter and I also Li-ion swapped mine, but I opted for a 36V 10AH pack and my total build cost was $150 (mine was pulled from a dumpster with equally dead lead acid packs). Best I've managed was 22.5MPH, and my range is 20 Miles. I snagged a new JETECH OEM battery meant for a TurboAnt e-Bike for $100 off eBay, then I modified a MotoTec Chaos XLR charge port to accommodate Li-ion charging by re-soldering the negative lead from the bottom pin to the open side pin, and made my own charger by getting a 42V Li-ion charger with a barrel style jack, cutting the barrel off, then soldering my own XLR jack. The 800W speed controller also needed some modification for fitment: I cut the housing in half, then made a new cover plate from an old license plate and some tin snips, ground down the rough edges, screwed the new cover plate on, then ran a bead of hot glue around the enclosure to improve weatherproofing. I also used a bit of foam utility mat to cushion the underside of the battery; that battery is a snug but perfect fit. I'm frankly surprised you got that motor to run 48V without burning up... then again, I know it handles 36V just fine, even after long runs I can rest my hand on the motor and not get burned. Toasty, not quite blistering. It's fun seeing someone else' approach to the same problem, and you've done well. Thanks for posting!
Thanks for the feedback, it sounds like you had as much fun as I did bringing new life to these old scooters. At full charge, I am at 54V. I still need to do a range test to see how far I can get on a single charge. But I am concerned about running it continuously from 100% and how hot it might get. We'll see what happens.
Thanks for the feedback, if the belt is glazed, frayed or cracked I wouldn't wait to replace it. If the belt breaks it will ultimately not allow the battery to charge, or water pump to cool the engine, so it will cause damage your engine pretty quickly. It's not worth gambling. These should be changed anywhere from 50-100k miles, but if you see these wear signs I would do it regardless of the mileage. If the belt is failing sooner the 50k then I would make sure you also change out the tensioner pulley because the spring may not be putting enough tension on the belt causing it to slip and resulting in the glazing. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the feedback, I like the pizza cutter look too. I just wanted to keep the stock wheel. I don't know about affecting gas mileage. Bigger tires usually has some negative impact but maybe not as bad as a 285 size. Good luck!
I don’t believe that putting a band over the detri uncoupling membrane is waterproof because the detri is not a 100% smooth surface so you have spots that have 1/8” thickness of Thinset and Thinset wicks water and is not waterproof!
Thanks for the feedback, I tend to agree with you about banding the seams of the uncoupling membrane, but for short time situations, I suppose it could be a little more water resistant. Long enough to be able to clean up a wet mess without damaging ceiling below.
I would always make sure to have it wired to a GFCI protected circuit. Low-voltage power supplies are not all made the same way, and may create a false sense of safety. Many switched-mode ones (like phone chargers and the laptop ones) are not galvanically decoupled/isolated from the mains, which means they may send line voltage through when they do fail. This may not be a high-risk issue in dry environments but definitely becomes one in a shower stall. Keep safe, people!
Thanks for the thoughtful comment, I just so happen to repurpose my old bathroom receptacle circuit, which was a 15 Amp GFCI circuit for my lighting circuit. I upgraded the bath receptacles to 20 Amps, so the GFCI was available for my lighting in and out of the shower.
Excellent video, in depth information! I’ve been researching this tire and no one else has explained as well as you. The other video i was looking at it was a 255 pizza cutter. I currently have the 285/70R17 Ko2 i’ve had them for a year and 7 months. They do rub slightly on a full turn when the wheel goes up. They’re also a smaller tire since before those i had the Nitto mud grapplers on same size and rubbed a bit as well. Those bajas on the other hand definitely look massive ! Strongly considering this tire. Thank you sir
Thanks for the feedback, I am glad someone found this information useful. I also really wanted to go with 255.85.R16 "pizza cutters" but didn't like the prices or the options by tire manufacturers. I think they are the ideal fitment size for tacomas. Ultimately, I chose the MTs and have been pleased with ride quality so far. Good luck in your tire selection.
As long as you don’t lift more than 2” upper control arms are not needed to get proper alignment only 3” lifts and above require upper control arms to get the alignment in proper specs.
in the initial dry lay out it seemed you had full tiles on the right wall and maybe 1/4 inch cuts on the left shower wall, seems to me if you just moved over that lay out about 1/8th, you would have full tile on both sides (wall tile would have covered) and bigger cuts around drain. also lay out and sheet placement is 2 very different things, so when you were actually installing, you had a half sheet on the left side and short of a full sheet on the right side, this made it so you had to add little cuts after the full sheet. you always try to never have to install individual tiles, always cuts should be attached to mesh, so all you needed to do was move over sheet placement to the right at least 2 inches, this would have avoided adding a cut instead of that cut being attached to the mesh. so sheet placement has nothing to do with lay out, you can have exactly the same lay out with different sheet placements. i spend a lot of time in sheet placement to avoid having to add little cuts individually. in a whole bathroom it might be impossible to get everything attached to mesh, but should be tried to avoid individual pieces. i even try and cut the drain out of a sheet, so i dont have to set any individual pieces . having all cuts attached to mesh is something that should be part of a lay out. anyways i do think your first dry lay out was correct if you just moved it over a little, it would have been bigger cuts on shower walls and drain, now once your side walls are installed, it might look like tiny slivers on sides and you have tiny slivers on drain sides, definitely looks like you would have been better off moving the lay out over 1/4 tile. besides that your work is very clean and awesome
i can tell your very detail orientated , so well done for sure. everything looks spot one . one thing i might have done at the end is to make a 1/4 inch notch in a stick, that notch would go around drain and would have been perfect for the ditra membrane. in the end its just as good using the 1/4 inch wood you have but having it built in to the end of a stick might be slightly better.
Thanks for the question, the quick answer is no because the flo FX drain doesn't provide enough spacers in the kit to do so. I suppose if necessary, you could contact Flo FX and ask for a few more spacers. Although, I preferred to have the waterproofing sheet membrane adhered directly to the drain flange rather than than to the uncoupling membrane.
Nice to see someone take out and comment on a non pre-slope shower pan. I'm a contractor and I've done plenty of no pre-slope pans and have never had an issue. To your point done correctly it will most likely outlast the others, you know... Not to mention they're stupid expensive.
I had same issue , connector burnt , i replaced burnt connection, but got same error, I ordered replacment Main Board, cross fingers. I am not sure where is the problem, Fan spins , but after 13 sec, get error
Thanks for the feedback, you probably did the right thing ordering a new board if you still are getting the error. It is obviously getting really hot and could have damaged the board somewhere.
I have a couple questions. I am getting ready to do this for the first time and I have a 4'x7' shower, so it's a pretty decent size for a newbie. Question 1: How much working time do I have with the dry pack mortar to get it level around the perimeter and sloped to the drain, tamped and smoothed? Question 2: Is there a reason why you couldn't do the mix w/ a little more water (but not runny) to make it easier to spread and work with? Thanks!!
Thanks for the questions. It sounds like a pretty good size shower you are considering. For the mud bed mix, Mapei states that you have approximately 90 minutes of working time. The manufacturer has specific instructions for the mix. I would refer you to their technical data sheet on the product. I wouldn't recommend deviating from their instructions. I have seen others use a mortar mix where it is made to be mixed at a wetter consistency. But the dry mix wasn't too difficult to work with and is formulated for shower construction specifically.
Thanks for the question, it came off easily as it just breaks like Styrofoam. Although there is a bit of residue that's does stick to the surface. I just used putty knife to scrap the residue, leaving the surface flat. Some of it did remain but it doesn't affect laying down thin set. Good luck!
Thanks for the question, the sensor wire comes in the box included with the thermostat. If you need another wire, I am sure you could contact Schluter directly for another sensor wire.
So you joined all the cbu with thinset and mesh, and also banded in some areas. I asked in another thread video, but you did not find build up an issue using the fabric on top of the mesh? I'm contemplating building a shower in the same manner.
Thanks for the question, I found no issue with build-up using the methods I employed. The large format tiles I used require a 1/2" x 1/2" trowel, which hides any imperfections anyway. But you could use smaller tiles if you choose. Good luck with your project.
Thanks for the feedback, sorry if I seemed to pass over it quickly, I simply connected green to ground in the box. White to white or neutral within the box, red to black of the load side to the fan and black to black of the line side or constant hot.
Thanks for the question, I didn't notice any visible bump out the tiles. I didn't have a problem with making the mosaic tiles lay flat. The waterproofing membrane was not a significant thickness that caused problems.
@@richofalltrades1 Interesting. I’ve heard of people using foam/sealant to avoid that issue. Looking at DIY kerdi niches it looks like alot of banding gets back there in the corners. Myself am considering preformed niche in combo with goboard. I’m not sure how much I trust a sealant combo in a water collector like a niche.
Have had Schluter floor since 2018 and in 11/23, the floor keeps calling for heat all the time. Schluter recommend replace thermostat, which did. The Schluter field rep came out. All cables checked correct. He said heating cables on part of floor to far apart. I asked why took so long to not work and had no answer. Really don’t want to replace floor, but not sure what to do
I agree replacing the floor is a costly proposition. Did you do this floor heat install yourself or did you have a professional complete the job? Can you confirm or verify the heating cables are too far apart? This could definitely cause the system to call for heat more often to try and keep up with the dissipating heat in the floor. But as you say, this would have been the case from the start. Unless you hadn't notice this until now. What prompted you to notice this? higher than normal utility bills? or just the thermostats energy consumption stats showing a rise in energy usage? So you have replaced the Thermostat, did you also try changing to the backup temperature sensor cable? There should be at least two temperature sensor cables run during the installation, the main and a backup. Maybe the main sensor went bad. Is the floor getting warm? If the floor is warm, then heat cables are doing their job. You have already eliminated the thermostat as a possible issue. So it is either the temperature sensor cable or the heat cables are spread too far apart near where the temperature sensors are taking their readings from. This is my best guess, sorry I can't be of more help.
Yes, Schluter rep swapped out sensor and know different. The area we were heating was 54 sf but in reviewing contracts purchase document show 51 sf kit DHE HK 120 51. We have had no more use of electricity. I only noticed when was cold and turned floor up and would keep calling. My electrician said cable was wrapped every 3 row and then went to 4 towards end. Appreciate you info.
Thanks for the feedback and the point of clarification. I used my existing dedicated 20 amp circuit previously used for the old jacuzzi tub to run the Ditra heat, but the instructions do indicate to use a 15 amp circuit.
How did you secure the handles, you show it in fast motion but never mention it. If this is labeled as "instalation"and not a review please focus on talking about what you are doing for instalation and not your personal feelings about the product...
Sorry, I sped up a critical installation point for you. The hot and cold handles have a set screw on the side of the handle where you use a small allen key to tighten down to the valve body. I have other Kingston Brass handles where the hold down screw is hidden underneath the hot and cold emblems on top of the handle. You have to pop the hot and cold caps off the top to access the screw. Hope this helps.
I took my utility trailer to a trailer dealership and asked them how much it would cost to run new wiring and taillights the said ruffly about 350.00 for new lights running light as well as the new wiring I was like wow that much so I cane up here on RU-vid and by watching a couple videos including yours I was able to rewire install and have working led lights in not an electronic type of person had no idea what I was doing but was able to do it by yours and another video so greatly appreciate the video my friend saved our family over 300.00 thank you from new york state!
I installed the kingston brass faucet KS3960PX. And now my faucet drips. What can I do? I also got 2 cone type rubber washer and nuts with it but it was never mentioned in the instructions
Thanks for the question, I am not sure I can answer intelligently on what the cone shape rubber washers and nuts are for and would suggest contacting Kingston Brass directly. I have used their customer support services in the past and have been pleased with their responsiveness. As far as the faucet drip, you can try isolating which valve body is leaking by shutting off each shut-off valve individually, hot, then cold to see if you can make it stop leaking. Once you determine which valve is the culprit you can talk to the manufacturer for a replacement. They are pretty good about backing their product. Hope this helps.
It’s helpful that it helps keep wood from soaking up moisture out of the mortar bed … but it’s a cleavage membrane to create an unbonded mudbed required by TCNA standards over wooden subfloor.
