I did bleed the brake system afterward. Not sure If I explained that or not, but there is a good video on RU-vid by 'Work on P38' guy. I followed his instruction.

Nissens 30230

@@PepperWagner Awesome, thanks!

Ive spent a lot of money and time on parts. Ive had mine for 13years. theres a lot or brittle plastics in my 99 hse. I think they are not built very well with the cosmetics. Its a strong chassis and goes anywhere but a lot can go wrong. Ive done new head gaskets, fuel pump, and the lower ball joints and all airbags. Also had to replace the expenaive sabco brake bulb and sort out the tc issues electrically by cleaning wvery connector in the wiring system as a lot of them corrode. But if you pull all electrics connectors and clean them, a lot of things start to work again. Most need a new fusebox too which are cheap enough. Mine is very reliable now. Ive done a lot to fix it though. My BMW from.same era is a much better built car ane more reliable, plastics have rubber in them and dont break so easily, and the motors are more advanced. The P38 though, is good on tyres and brakes, they last forever. If i had a choice i might lean toward an L322 Range rover with the 4.4 bmw engine because i know how good they are from my 740il and its seemingly built stronger than the P38 (L322).

Thankyou for kind words. I film most of the work I do, and I upload when I feel it could help others get the job done quicker.

Non vanos. Yes.

OEM transmission fluid for E38 code is ESSO LT71141 (BMW used ESSO). Any fluid with this code is the correct one, the color of the fluid can be different. If a particular manufacturer of an equivalent long drain LT71141 chooses yellow, red, brown, clear dye, then it is going to look like that. I personally used ESSO LT71141 in a grey packet with red sticker to replace this one. Its available online. It is one of the correct fluids to use. I believe I did that change 3 or 4 years ago but I don't remember exactly. All I know is it is smooth as silk now. I dont recall the color of dye used in the packs which I purchased, but companies do change the color randomly so no point thinking about it. There is a green sticker under the transmission as well as the information in the booklet for this transmission pertaining to exactly as I say, to be correct. The full service history of this particular vehicle did not mention a fluid change ever happening. Whatever the fluid looked like in this video is a document of what the fluid looked like as a result of being nearly 300,000k old.

Yes. It works well. Petrol dilutes the bad fluid and flushes it out. It then evaporates leaving no residue.

No theory. Just document of the job being done, and getting a used transmission installed.

I believe so. Pieces of wood.

I think its just water on a horse riding ring/menage. The red scoria picks up the loose oil if any does spill and i later scoop it into a wheelbarrow with salt in it then dispose of the oil in old oil containers after the salt has dried the oil into clumps.

what about it??? some things just need to get done.

@@averagejoebitcoin nice..

026053 Magna. also Acura. these 3 wire mirrors were fitted from 99 to 08 in both vehicles i believe. They fit the P38 range rover mount on the windscreen. They are the same chromatic system. Just cut the 3 wires off and solder to the connector from your broken donnelley mirror. Theyre usually around $70-80 US on ebay.

yes dvbt2. I think its from a 2008 X3.

Hello, how to remove TV protection? I can't watch it while I'm driving.

@@dongtaotruzen4660 set ignition to pos. II enter TV mode enter "settings" enter "contrast" when the green contrast bar is visible, push the knob and keep it pressed turn ignition off (keep button pressed!) wait 8-10 seconds (timing must be accurate!) release the knob turn on ignition again

watched it so much to prepare!

Dowell is 20mm. I think a 25mm will also fit inside bumpstop. The 20mm was cheap as I just used a broomstick handle! They seem to hold up ok and dont break.

Thankyou for comment, good read. Glad you fixed it and got lucky getting it going the 2nd time. Too right! converter heavy as hell! laying on back holding it dead centre and jostling about for that elusive click/thud into position. For P38 I recommend new trans filter/ full fluid flush get rid of the metalic bits from years of use clean up what you can in the pan make sure magnet is there as preventative maintenance. I also regreased all the uni joints with a K29 flexigun and did both diff oils at the same time as this box job.

Thanks. I guess I like to upload these videos to show you can get things done without the pro gear and space. It builds character that is for sure! The cold beer after a job like this hits that little bit better. Nothing better than pulling off a $5000 job for free.

Hello, Yes very good question. I used a 4hp24 which was exactly the same as mine, a 99+ model. I simply removed mine and plugged this one in with my old gearbox ecu. Im guessing it has simply picked up on whats going on immediately, and have not needed to reprogramme it. The box is definately going through all the gears. I thought i would have an issue there with possibility of it only using 3rd gear and in limp mode. But this did not happen. Simple plug and play.

Just slides down i believe.

Stc2784. Wabco. Cheapest I could find got from Allmakes4x4.

Ooh ok.thks for sharing

Thankyou. I like to document my fixings of auto problems and will upload ones that could help. I do plan on making another one on this subject, to best show resetting of heights using pre-cut metal tubes and placing them in the bumpstops, then dropping the air from the bags Using eassuite and recording those height values, in order to get the calibration settings perfect. And to show how swapping the sensors from one side to the other gives them a whole new life.

Half inch ratchet fits straight in.

Hello. Bad microswitch in door latch. Have you tried press door lock button on remote Fob, while it is in the door keyhole? and turn it FOUR times to the right. It should blink and indicator lights flash. Door has to lock and unlock with key. You probably do not need EKA code. If you have bad door microswitch it will not recognise your key! You have to take door panel off and fix microswitch! check the door lock mechanism.

You're amazing!!!! Just bought mine and got it locked in immobilizer engine disabled code. After a tow home, a few beers to calm I found your video. It fixed the issue! Hopefully it stays fixed but thank you.

Tengo el mismo problema solucionastes el tuyo?

Install new crank sensor. Let me guess a few other things, Fully charge battery could fix and check RED fluid is dripping out of filler hole of gearbox after about 5min of the engine running, that would be fully topped up. If not, add more fluid. you could have a cracked flex plate, broken flex plate, or metal shavings destroying your gearbox (no grey fluid dripping below bellhousing?) The cooler might be clogged so nothing is pumping thru and overheating the fluid which is bad news. Have you tried plugging and unplugging the black and blue wires on back of transfer case, and the large plug of wires for gearbox, as well as the XYZ shifting switch on side of box, possibly needing to be removed taken apart and contacts cleaned up of dirt and debris.

Thanks a lot for the comment I will take this on board and check out the syncmate. This green 9/99 Range Rover is a Bosch, but I think you are on the right track with needing to Synch it. Until I do that, this has obviously been a solution to get the car moving again. Thanks again, we all learn together with these amazing yet difficult vehicles.

Yes height stays the same even when the small compressor from the EAS box is completely removed. It is closed as you thought. I found you can add air to the system through the Dryer top line, from a different compressor (belt drive etc) and shoot air into the tank and airbags with engine running, which can keep you up on highest setting and on the road even with no compressor in the EAS box at all.

where's the 'dryer top line' located?@@ESlashP

​@@michaelfraser5723 Not sure what you mean. The air line to remove and shoot compressed air into, is on top of the Dryer. The Dryer is a cannister full of balls, which trap moisture so it doesnt enter the air tank. On RHD its next to the power steering resevoir.

Oil level is a little lower than the location of these. No need to drain it first.

@@ESlashP In the end i had to drain it. The oil filter housing was actually full of oil as well as the tubes, so it was the only option in my case. What a pain in the ass to get those lines out. :Ddd

@@jonascerny9499did you do it from down or up ?!

@@mahersg8117 I was doing the o ring replacement on both oil lines leading to the filter housing and a i had to lift the car and replace it both from the top and bottom of the car. Pretty nasty job. Such a small work place to play around with.

Yes normally closed. The switch will go open circuit at 125c (turns off the compressor to avoid overheating). It resets/closes again when down to 85c. AC is 120Volt. Some people are using slightly different ratings like 80-130 etc. But basically this will work.

Thanks for the comment Neil, I love the old tools feel connected to my engineer grandfather born in 1915, whom I only got a handful of years with. Hammer is probably 100 years old, spent most of its life in Brunswick Vic building all manner of things in Melbourne until 1988 when It became my fathers, who is also a Neil 'Neal'. I will often grab his tools and use them as they know what they are doing with all that experience!

Thanks and will keep this in mind If mine goes early, although its been good for 10,000k so far.