Our 'Eco' Journey so far: ie the Stuff that we have installed/changed to....
ENERGY SUPPLIER Octopus Energy - Agile Tariff LINK to £50 Sign Up Reward: share.octopus.energy/ebon-gecko-94 (I also get £50) Thank YOU a 1000 times if you use my link - I really appreciate it)
HOUSE + BUSINESS (Bespoke Dog Grooming Salon) 6.6kWh Solar PV array 6kW inverter Tesla Powerwall2
VEHICLES Renault Kangoo 33i (Dog Walking Van) MG ZS EV
VEHICLE CHARGERS Ohme EV Charger MyEnergi Zappi EV Charger Granny Cable
OTHER STUFF MyEnergi Eddi - Solar PV (solar Excess Diverted to heat the water tank)
PENDING: Solar Thermal array (purchased ages ago.. still to install) Solar Thermal stainless steel tank (Installed but not connected)
UNDER INSTIGATION: Switch from Oil Fired (Ancient) Boiler to Air Source Heat Pump...
Hi Yes It will detect the fault and you can even get readings in the pressure in the suspension tank. It can also be used to set up your suspension heights if you need to do so after replacing a height sensor etc .. If you have a suspension issue i have two common areas to suggest you look at: 1. The actual integrity of the air tank and air bags. 2. The wiring loom behind the arch lining where it enters through the bulkhead from the suspension height sensor is very prone to chaffing and it wears a hole in the shroud and then the wire breaks. The other common issue is the suspension valves (the o ring seals may need replacing) or less commonly the air suspension bags themselves. I hope that helps.. but an IID will diagnose the fault and possibly the exact component (although it cannot, for instance determine the fault in an air pipe vs a leaky valve or a suspension strut).. It can also clear all faults etc... it does everything a garage diagnostic unit can do as well as programming the vehicle and new keys etc.. Graham
Would it pick up suspension service warning lights that come on. It goes when i switch the car off and on again. My other ODB code reader doesn't pick up again, with the light on or off. So im non yhe wiser as to the suspension fault.
Asalamaleikum from Kosoves.Your battery tester is not good.AGM batteries also lose water.But very little.Measure the weight of battery and compare with the weight
Thanks Good tip My tester is usually pretty good TBH.. I take it as a 'guide' but it has not failed me yet when compared to garage 'load testers'. The weight is interesting.. im not sure if the Treeing or Sulfation is directly related to electrolyte loss? I will need to investigate that one. Fitting a new battery solved the issues... I was hoping I might be able to recondition the battery for use in the workshop .... The test is still ongoing 😂
Thank you. I was thinking of doing an update on the system/diverted power and looking at return on investment compared to getting paid for export.... Would this be of any interest do you think? Graham
@@G-Cam1 that’s exactly what happened mine this week 3.5 ton Ivor Williams trailer with frame loaded with heavy trees it snapped prop shaft .but I’ve pulled similar loads before and that didn’t happen.wondering if it weakened over time
I have a similar issue with the new MG5, the rear hatchdoor has water pouring out after every time it rains and I lift the door, from inside the door! Ridiculous from a new car. I’m now thinking (from other comments here) it may be drain plugs not having been removed. Crazy… it’s a 2 hour drive to the nearest MG dealers from where I live in Scotland… a whole day taken up checking a fault that shouldn’t be a thing in a brand new car. Pretty disappointed. Will check drain plugs asap. Thanks for the video!
It is annoying. The MG dealer was an hour away from us. We are also in Scotland. On the positive side the car performed flawlessly after the leak was fixed. The only other issue was the plastic clips on the tailgate that hold the string for the parcel shelf. I replaced them with Land Rover clips that I had in the workshop.. sorted. Overall the MG was a delight to own and there are elements that are missing from the Tesla Y.
I was able to manually shift to neutral since I think my brake switch broke. But I could not push the car. It seemed to stay in gear.. Anyway the L3 still parked.
Possibly ...You may have needed to use the manual brake release pull? Its located under the little oblong cover beside the electronic park brake switch? Always worth a try.. I hope you get it sorted 👍
Did you ever get this fixed?My MG5 has started having issues charging with the Ohme. Charges fine with the granny charger (although Ohme said this doesn't mean that there isn't an issue with the care) and with Podpoint 7 kwh. Also fine rapid charging. Ohme tried to blame the Mesh system we have for the internet so turned this off but still not charging properly. The Ohme starts a charge as scheduled at 12:30 am but after 15 to 20 minutes the charge stops. Charger shows a flashing green light which apparently means active charging but car not drawing power. Have been in communication with Ohme for nearly 2 weeks and the issue is still not resolved.
My zappi says charging, charge delayed, charge complete with 0.00kwh added. I'm in Australia and the zappi importer, basically is a 1 star rated company, so I think that I'm just going to have to pay again for installation but this time a hypervolt.
Yea you've probably by this time got it working. I've just had mine installed and had the same issue. I disabled the CT Go into CT config. Bypass the code 0000 then turn the CT1 off/or on This might help someone else.
Thank you. The Kangoo has been great. I use it every day and charge it via solar or overnight on the cheap Octopus Go tariff. The running cost is under 2p per mile. The version I have is the L2. Its got a handy bit of extra capacity. The battery has maintained its State of health very well. It does not have rapid charging so that may help? On the downside I have had some niggles that the Dealer (Parks of Hamilton) were unable to rectify permanently. They have damaged my van and discussions are still ongoing!! Their quality of work is imho very poor for a top company! So my suggestion would be find a Local HEVRA garage (like Electron Garage in Glenrothes). HEVRA garages are experts on EVs... Main dealers are (in my experience) not!
Hi, Does the Eddie need a certain amount of excess solar before it will start working like the Zappie's 1.4 kWh ? I live in Scotland to and just wondered if it would run at say 800w etc
Been looking at getting a system of solar+ myeddi+battery.I have mains gas with a hot water tank so do you think myeddi would be helpful in cutting my gas bill as I mainly use the gas to heat the hot water tank?I really would like to cut down on my gas usage
Hi If you have solar PV and you generate excess power the Eddi will use it to heat your water. It requires a hot water tank with an immersion element. Any excess is diverted to this as long as you set the app to heat water before diverting to the grid. IF you are going to install panels its better to add an Eddi (or a storage battery) on at the time of installation as VAT will be 5%. Any retro fitting will be at 20%VAT. I might also suggest to go for as many panels as you can as you can never really generate too much of your own power! Watch out for less scrupulous installers... Some will tell you that you can only install 4kW of panels! That is a lie. 4kW just makes their life a little easier! Also watch out for firms who have, since the energy crisis massively inflated their prices to prey on people!! Hope this helps?
Hi Iirc once you get in to the board it is just held in place with clips and a few screws. The wires are plug and socket.. so you will find they only go back one way..
I am thinking of getting this and it's a great idea except we are on mains gas and since my buy-in tariff is lower than any SEG export tariff it's cheaper to heat the water with gas, I'd never get a return on a Myeddi investment.
Good Point. A lot of folks get 'caught out' with the Zappi in the same way.. It needs a decent level of 'Solar Excess' to charge an EV and it is a LONG payback vs the likes of an OHME I guess the lesson is get what is right for you right now..
I live in west Ireland and I had this issue which turned out to be rusty contacts in the charging handle. I use contact cleaner spray direct into the charge handle. Dodgy connectivity is a dead give away. The rubber cover traps water in the charge handle, I never use the cover any more.
Alas Not! The problem was put down to me having thick walls that were attenuating the signals between the Zappi and the house/Hub! 8 visits later and the Zappi was removed! I installed an Ohme .. It works on the Phone (as opposed to the wifi) network. I have had No coms issues since switching. I still have the Eddi installed and it works OK!
@@paulruffy8389 They are very aware of the issue. Their top engineer (Ady) spent 2 days here! They eventually offered to remove and refund the Zappi.. It may be an isolated issue but at the time there was no option to hard wire the units. The walls of my home are solid stone and around 3-4' thick.. That was the main cause as the system operated on wifi. there was no 2g/4g option alas. I liked the Zappi but even the manufacturer was ted by the physics of UHF radio waves VS stone.. LOL
It was the door seal. Basically it was a bit 'warped'. Instead of channeling the water away from the car it was funneling it in! Being parked at a slight angle appeared to have magnified the issue due to more water running off the roof at that spot. MG were not good in terms of their response. HOWEVER the local dealer (Mackie Motors) were fantastic. They did not mess about and they replaced the seal very quickly. The loan car was an MG5 .. so they were very good. It was a very unfortunate issue. However I was not put off the MG. Overall it was an excellent value for money car. There were no further issues with the leak. The only other issue was the clips mounted to the inside of the tailgate ... They snapped a few times. I replaced them with Land Rover ones I had lying around from my Discovery days.. they sorted the (common) problem.👍
Yes. The solar 'excess' is diverted to the Eddi as the final stage before it is sent to the grid (where the price you get is anywhere between nothing and not a lot). Basically it makes best use of your solar panel production by heating the water with any energy that you are not using as opposed to sending it to the grid. Hope that helps?
Hi Can you physically remove the rotary dial? If you can you need to see if you can turn the switch... I would use electrical cleaner.. if the switch is gummed up. This gumming up is something that can happen due to sticky drinks being spilled.
Yes.. very close!. The issue has now been fixed as I complained to Octopus and to Tesla. While there is still a small discrepancy it is minimal. It would 'appear' that, on deeper investigation, there was a system error? I also hard wired the Powerwall gateway direct to the router (despite a solid WiFi signal). This did noticibly quicken the in home display response to grid draw etc... However I cannot say for sure that was part of the issue. If faced with an issue shouting, and hard wiring is a good place to start... I hope this helps👍
@@G-Cam1 I’m just about to install 7.8kw of solar and hopefully a Powerwall 2 so just trying to find out all the quirks! I don’t think I’m too far along the road from you so I may reach out to pick your brains 😉
It is probably because the installer used the second cylinder connection... It's just a cable to the immersion element. They might be able to simply swap it... But I'm not sure if it makes any operational difference. I only have one tank as you say. The Eddi gives the option for a second cylinder... And the priority can be set so that the second tank heats up once the primary tank has heated...
I am running a victron setup, you can set the max grid target usage for the inverter, ive set it to 30w, if its too close to 0w the swings in the inverter output will somtimes export the swings to the grid, so would rather import a little than export any, unless i was generating more than im using might set it to 0w or - 30w even, i dont know if the tesla has adjustment on it for this, looks like it might be set to around 150w or so
Your shed is exactly like mines, i got 4.5kw of panels to install on it, i have the whole battery and rest of the victron system setup up and running in the shed with an armoured cable run to the house, have an airforce 1 to be mounted to the gable, make use of some of the wind up here in Shetland.
Sounds like a a very similar setup. How is it working out? Im very interested to hear how the Airforce 1 is working for you. We are on a hillside and could accomodate a Turbine but the ones I have looked at are starting at £25k for a 3kW system! I would love someting that would just run all the time (when the wind is blowing) to cover the base load in the house.. Im also installing additional panels on the front of the Barn to give me another boost on the overall generation.
Hi Adam. There is a forum that may be able to help. It could be a few different things. Your installer is the one who needs to sort it really.. It could be as simple as the CT clamp being the wrong way around...ie it never 'sees' an excess? Or it could be a communication issue.. Or it could be that you simply need to delete the settings on the app. Switch off and on again and then re program your priority sequence .. ie fill the battery, then heat the water, charge the car then export any excess to the grid .... Hope this helps...
I think I had some similar but it was fixed when I had the reading clamps on both the grid and solar side... make sure the grid energy reading clamp is near the meter and not the fuse box... ( used a harvi to transmit the extra distance) The fault was the reading clamp being approximately 1.5m away from the meter but next to the fuse box... I think the electromagnetic waves at that distance tripped the system... not sure but the harvi worked for me...
I had a conversation with the technical director at Octopus and he could not give me a credible answer. If you go into your online bill there is a function to download a CSV file for the Half Hourly data and that’s where it gets interesting, my Powerwall has enough capacity to see me through the night and my loads are 100 - 200 watts, yet my HH data shows I we are consuming or being charged rather for electricity. Clearly something is telling lies.
Hi. Yes indeed The Garage was excellent. They found a bad seal on the front door frame so removed and fitted a new seal under warranty of course. There has been no leak since then 👍 The only other issues have been a faulty TPMS and the load cover string clips (very common issue) Otherwise we have been very impressed and would recommend it to anyone who asks, 👍
@@G-Cam1 i'll wait and buy one in 2 or 3 years once they are in my price range. at moment will stick to an older design as more affordable , althou looking forward to the extra stuff like lane assist on the mg
@@lookoutleo they are very good. Many knock them... Usually the Anti China brigade! Quality is as good and better than many cars I have owned. We are lucky to live in Scotland and if it were not for the Excellent Energy Saving Trust offering an interest free loan we would probably still be saving up for an EV car. I don't regret the move for one second. It has literally saved us £thousands compared to our Land Rover Discovery. Around £2.5k per year in fuel and another £3k in maintenance. 550 in road tax. then £who knows what on repairs The MG just work's.. unlike the Discovery... and I don't worry about the air suspension or crank failing any more. So for us it has literally saved us money not to mention the massive reduction in emissions.. Good luck Thanks for watching me small contribution to RU-vid Graham
@@G-Cam1 yes replacing a disco with a lorry would have saved you money :) they are mental expensive to run and maintain , I'm going to a leaf 30 from my panda 1.1 which cost £1 for each 10 miles and was £30 a year tax. It's just starting to rust so time to go . The leaf if about quarter price of new mg . I like the executive , I'll get once they are below 10k in few years , in mean time leaf will do. Had env200 24kwh but in Oban was big range problem . Here chargers are every 50 miles and no supermarket ones. Where are you? Most councils have started charging for rapids and 7kw at 25p kWh. If your up near send me message go for a coffee
I am having the almost exact same problem with my Kona - did you ever get this fixed. It just started this week for me out of the blue without any other changes.
Hi. Yes. It turned out to be a door seal that was the issue. The garage dried the car out and fitted the new seal. It has not leaked since then, however there is an irritating 'flutter' from the seal at 50mph.. It is going back in for its first service and to have a TPMS fault rectified. It has not put us off the car. We have saved a fortune Vs our Discovery 4!
Hi! I just bought an MG EHS Phev, and got it last Wednesday from the car dealer…. Yesterday I started to have the same problem… Not so massive at the moment but found also that the water is coming in from inside the plastic besides the pedals. Thought immediately something like AC condensed water not properly drained but, it might be indeed some seals… Going to the mechanic tomorrow and let see what they find out. The car is pretty new on the market in Sweden and just about 180 cars sold by last May. Really helpful video and hope you completely solved this unacceptable problem! Thanks
I cant tell if the sound is coming from a compressor mounted deep in the engine or from that squirrel cage fan box?? I presume the system is running as a heat pump ( reverse cycle ) to pump heat into the batteries or cabin. If so, this sounds like a dry compressor ( no oil, has there been an issue with refrigerant leaks), or the reverse 4 way valve, is not closing off fully, like having a faulty check valve, or is bypassing and cycling super heated refigerant vapour accross the 4 way valve, or bypass valve. This wouldnt show any fault on the ecu, as the 4 way valve only shows electrical working or not, only way to know if it is working is to have a set of refrigerant gauges connected when this happens. Does the garage have access to that kind of equiptment and ability to diagnose?? May be better off with a garage that deals with air con leaks etc. Good luck.
The Local service Manager is now on the case.. So I am more hopeful! They are main Renault Dealers, however like many, I fear that if the computer says no fault code.. the dealer deems that there is nothing wrong? I have had this twice before but with turbo actuators sticking.. still in discussion but the latest update is that yesterday the heating stopped working!! So I suspect you and Electron Garage are correct.. I will update you as soon as I get any info as it would be great to get it fixed and be able to get back to work with it!
Hello ! This sounds very much like the HVAC compressor has a mechanical issue which wont show up on the fancy Renault Diagnostics. And as someone said before if there are no fault codes it must be fine - yeah . Sound like the scroll has either smashed itself to pieces or at least a chunk has came off.
Thank you for the reply. The Parks service manager has viewed the video now so I am hoping some progress will be made. I have been told that Parks have only one EV specialist and that I need to book it in for 2 days. I don't think its a fault on the high voltage side and I do agree that the fault is probably not going to show up. I could not see one on my diagnostics unit an as you say it is probably mechanical and is not going to trigger any cab bus flags to the EU.. The Scroll is a very good suggestion as the heating has just failed.The fans run but zero heating!
@@G-Cam1 yes that’s what I thought would happen the heat gradually getting lost. 100 % compressor failure. I’m sure the EV specialist won’t need 2 days to figure it out. Good Luck
