Just videos I make for fun and CB'ers to hear what their stations sound like.... but please remember that these videos are all recorded on a crappy old cell phone, and I am no expert, so the audio and video may not be the best.
If I make any mistakes with peoples names let me know, I will fix it. And if you find a video of yourself on here and would like a custom image for the video, let me know, I can do that also.
My suggestion, use a time-delay relay. Connect the value of the resistor needed to stop the surge in series with transformer primary. Connect NO contacts of timer across resistor. When timer activates, say 1 second, contacts close and take resistor out of the circuit.
If you get 2 identical MOT's and series the primary's, each will only see half of the mains voltage, and run much more efficiently and cooler. The issue is, as you described, they have too many volts per turn on the primary. Then you can wind whatever you want on the two secondary's, but you need to balance the loads, so say you want 12v, wind the secondary the same on both and series them to get 12v.
I actually have many mot's and I do have 2 matching. I was planning on doing just that with them, but I haven't got around to it yet. I was going to run the secondaries in parallel. You have good advice, hopefully others read this also.
@@dieseldes6578 I will try it both ways, it is just for 6.5 volts so it will be easy to try it both ways. Maybe I will put them next to each other and try looping the secondary thru both ! 😀
At a TV station I maintained, our soft start circuit used 2 1 ohm wire wound resistors on a Harris TV-55U 50 kw transmitter to slowly bring up the high voltage. The filaments were also soft started.
@@KA9DSL I figured they were BIG resistors since you were working with 50KW.. LOL. Sounds like a fun job. I only work with small stuff, like 1000 watts. I was only mentioning the soft start in this video regarding the kick from the magnetic field, but yes, as you mention, it is a good idea also for charging capacitors and filaments also. Thanks for the comments.
@@bigcbradio Thank you, by the way, the xfmr and rectifiers were all in a big tub of mineral oil for cooling. And the beam voltage was 32kv. Very dangerous to work on, even when it's off.
@@KA9DSL Dangerous is an understatement at those voltages. I have been zapped many times, everything from your ordinary car ignition coil to 240ac house, but the worst ever was from a capacitor in an old ceiling fan that had been removed from the ceiling for a month! As crazy as that sounds, I was taking the fan apart for who knows what now, but as I took it apart the capacitor got me from hand to hand thru both arms and across the chest. Seems silly since the cap was about the size of a D battery and it was just a 110v fan, but my muscles were sore for a week. It was one heck of a firm contraction. I was holding the fan up with my left hand and had the wire cutters in my right, and when I cut into a wire..... Snap! Since that day I don't mess around with anything without thinking first.
I had to do a little research before posting and I'm not 100% sure on this, but think I've got a pretty good handle on the facts. If the transformer was running in magnetic saturation, add more turns would make it worse as that would increase the magnetic field. What would be fixed by adding turns is if the base inductance wasn't high enough for good reactance at line voltage. This is why you do see people ballast the transformers with caps or inductors to tame them down. Just lowering the voltage that's across the primary.
Just like you I have done research over the years, and specifically on MOT's, and again like you, I'm not 100% sure on anything either, but I like to think that I also have a good handle on it. What I do know is that if you add windings you can reduce the idle draw to almost zero and add your own secondary to MOT's and use them without them getting hot when there is no load on the secondary. I also still believe that as they are wound from the factory they are saturated, that is how they limit the power to the tube. As far as ballasting, I personally think that it a very poor and incorrect solution.
I would argue that Residual magnetism is only one factor in this. I installed at 1.5KW torrid transformer at my test bench for isolating a DUT. It was my first rodeo with large inrush currents, torrids are worse. I would pop the fuse, or blow the 20A breaker 25% of the time. At first I installed a zero point crossing circuit, and it blew about 90% of the time. I did some reading and studying, and even worked up a current clamp to my scope to measure current and voltages. I went full Obsessive Compulsive on it, lol I think you stated it wrong about the residual magnetism. Best case is the polarity of the field left in the core is against what is incoming when the switch is closed, hence bucking the current. If it is aligned with the incoming current then it doesn't buck the incoming current, and you might start off on the edge of saturation. This will leave the current limited by only the DC resistance of the primary winding. Now if you turn on at zero point crossing, even without a residual field, then you have nearly a full 180 degs for current to build. This only gets you the first cycle, as the next cycle DOES HAVE a heavy residual magnetic field bucking the current this leaves little current in the primary, unless the secondary is eating the field up as a load. I demagnetized the core in a few tests and that made the problem better, but not fixed. Here is a ugly, or genius, way I used to fix the problem. My output was 120V, so I used a power relay that had a 120VAC coil. I wish I could include a sketch. The relay coil was driven off the OUTPUT of the transformer. The output of the transformer went through one set of NO contacts so the output couldn't be loaded until the replay closed. The input of the transformer went through one set of NO contacts powered from the existing power switch. Then a resistor(iirc 12 ohm 2W surge rated) was put across the NO primary relay contacts. Now when the switch is turned on the resistor limits the current, the voltage in the secondary doesn't come up if the core is saturated so it is limited for a time. Once the output voltage is up the relay closes bypassing the resistor and connecting the output.
Seems like genius and maybe over engineered, but who am I to judge, mine is just a resistor and a switch, but I didn't actually show mine, it was just a demo to give people the idea. Whatever solves the problem right? You are definitely are putting some thought into it.
Pretty easy actually, the Ritron repeaters were designed with phone service in mind for off grid locations and they have a phone interface in them already. You can remove the phone interface and use the repeater like a normal repeater if you wanted to, but I did not remove them. So back to how it works.... Each repeater transmits and receives like a normal repeater and each of these transmits and receives on the others frequency and then the Baofeng Handheld has "dual watch" it can listen to one or both of the repeaters at the same time. The way those repeaters function with the phone card installed is if you lift the handset it will start transmitting and receiving immediately, and when the other repeater hears the squelch tone on it's receiving frequency it will make the phone plugged into it ring until you lift the handset, and at the same time the Baofeng will also receive the signal and squelch tone if you have it programmed to. Then if you use the Baofeng handheld to transmit to either of the 2 repeaters receiving frequencies and have the squelch tone programmed then that repeater will ring. If you know how a repeater functions it should be easy to understand what I just wrote, if you don't the above probably just sounds confusing. Anyways, I don't really have a use for it, I was just messing around to see what I could come up with. I do own a few off grid properties but we have cell service. Maybe it will come in handy if/when the shit hits the fan because these repeaters are 12 Volts. It is hard to see, but if you look right next to the 120v plug on the repeater, there is a small white 12v connector.
Completely WRONG, the transformer has nothing to do with core saturation. This is completely bogus, what is happening is turning the transformer on at a peak of the AC wave form and not at a "Zero Crossing" point will always cause an inrush current. "SOFT START" circuits are usually required when the transformer and rectifier assembly is charging a high capacity filter network. Get it right guys, factual theory, CB Mentality does not cut the mustard. Respectfully & 73 Dennis, KV4WM, a US Navy Nuclear Submarine Veteran and Licensed Amateur Radio Operator.
Sorry, you are wrong. Big CB is correct. This is a phenomenon called core remanence. Applying power at "zero-crossing" to a transformer with it's turned-off remanence near the positive peak forces further positive flux build that there is no capacity left for. This results in saturation and a LARGE magnetization inrush. Up to 17x FLC. Systems called POW or "Point On Wave" exist to avoid this. They monitor where power is lost to the core and control the power ON point of the sinewave to the same point during the next power up. To repeat, starting a transformer up at zero Crossing is worst point to do it.
Since you threw in a dig at CB Mentality, you must also be one of the hamsters that complains people are off frequency and they should buy a better radio, even tho yours has a clarifier. Also you must be angry at CBers because you didn't fit in and had to study to be a hamster, and now all you can do is ask other hams what the weather is and then brag about your $3500 radio. How do I know you use to be a CBer and didn't fit in? Because you said "does not cut the mustard" I heard that for years on the CB, and now you bag on CBers, because you didn't fit in. Then lets top off your hamster intelligence buy you saying "factual theory" I am rolling on the floor, seriously! I passed all the hamster exams without studying and I can talk all over the world without $3500 radios and 100 foot towers. Goodbye KV4WM, but again "factual theory" Really? do you know what either of those words mean??? You are so proud to say your name and call sign and top it off with "factual theory" I Love It. ROFLMAO
@@keithcress1335 Wow, I love it, I knew they track and/or start the wave to sync when combining or switching, but I never heard of or thought of using it for a transformer. Awesome, I love learning new stuff. I thought it was crazy when I learned how they shut off the MRI machine I was in 20 years ago. I saw inside the unit where it had this huge shunt to literally short out the massive power coming in and blow the breakers to turn it off, but you probably already knew about that. Thanks for teaching me something new, I already looking it up and reading.
So completely sure of yourself. But completely ignorant on the subject too. " peak of the AC wave form and not at a "Zero Crossing" point will always cause an inrush current" Yep!, you've never been there before. I used a zero point crossing circuit once and instead of tripping the breaker 25% of the time, I got like 90% of the time.
There is a special thermistor called an inrush current limiter.....High resistance when cold, low when hot. These are made in a variety of current ratings. They are commonly used with switching type power supplies. I bought a bunch of these years ago and add them to any gear which i wish to protect. The ones i have were made by Keystone.
Thermistors do have their place, and even tho they market some as inrush current limiters, I will stick to this type of example in this video. Why? For example, if you were to switch a device off and then immediately back on, the thermistor will still be warm an offer no protection, or if the area around the thermistor is still warm, again, no protection. Also thermistors characteristics change over time and use "they age" and the specs change, additionally, they are affected by ambient temperature. But, everyone can research all the different ways and test and decide for themselves. Thanks for the idea.
They also don't like greatly varying loads. Easy to design a with an ICL and find out it's shutting down when the system is idle and 'soft starting' your circuit when the current requirement jumps up. Trying to find one with the cold R high enough, and the other specs is a pain.
Good presentation. I've known about the concept of inrush currents and all that for sometime. I have built circuits using quick duration timers and a resister for a couple of my high powered audio amplifiers (vintage that used big iron transformers). Makes a huge difference. SMP (switching) power supplies are no exception! They surge too. What I didn't know, however, was the relationship between the static magnetic "charge" left over from the last shutdown and the position of the AC wave when it hits the transformer! That's cool. Now add all the stuff on the secondary side that is sucking hard for power like big filter capacitors in amplifiers. On all the mods I made to amplifiers, I chose to limit the inrush current ONLY to the high rail B+/- power windings but leaving the transformers still intact to line (mains). Just doing that allows amp to fire up and NOT have my room light flicker! Modern home theater type receivers sometimes use 2 power transformers! One is the big heavy one to power the amplifier stages, but use a tiny doorbell size transformer that's on 24/7 for the memory and some other low current circuits. In tht case, limiting inrush current to the high power transformer is a good idea.
Now you know... LOL. I didn't figure out that "static magnetic "charge" left over" on my own. I read it somewhere 25 years ago or more. I don't remember where I read it, but I am glad I ran across it back then. One of the easiest ways to demonstrate that static magnetic state it is by pulling that trigger on your Weller soldering gun a bunch of times. They make a pretty good clunk sometimes. I was going to use my Weller to make the video, but then I remembered I had this power supply that the cover has just enough clearance that is make that loud ringing sound. I am really glad you picked up on that static magnetic state rather than just the basic inrush. Have fun and thanks for watching and commenting.
Well..... I bought one of those anti static wrist straps back in the late 80's but I never used it and don't know what happened to it. I often use old towels as a work surface, it keeps things from getting scratched and also keeps screws from rolling away. The only real disadvantage is you have to be really careful about small pieces of wire getting lost in the towel, you know, like the small strands from stripping the end of a wire. When working on a live circuit board a small strand of wire in the towel could really ruin your day. Luckily for me, even after working on thousands of electronic devices over the last 50 years I have never had a problem due to static or those pesky little wire pieces, although I have let the smoke out a couple of times due to other mistakes. I am not going to mention the name of the repair shop, but there is a shop here in Southern California that has their entire work bench covered in felt. It makes me cringe when ever I go there. The felt is covered in burn marks and there are literally dozens of little pieces of wire and solder dropping stuck in it. The worst part is that almost every repair they do, they have a live circuit board laying on top of that mess. Oh well, I do know the proper way to do things, I am just too lazy to go to the effort when making these helpful (hopefully helpful) videos here on youtube. That's kinda why I mention in my "about" that these videos are not professional and I am not an expert. Also some things you see in my videos are meant to be funny, such as some of my videos will have a hammer, Elmers glue, super glue, etc.... all near what I am working on. Ok, thanks for letting me know my towel is flammable, I hadn't thought of that. I guess I have to have a fire extinguisher nearby in my future videos.
Yes, it makes it exciting, and if you look at the tip of the alligator clip on the yellow wire, and look at the spade lug right next to it, you may notice I had a little excitement just before I started recording. LOL. The other option was to make a professional looking setup that would take some time and effort. I don't have much time left and I hate effort. Hopefully someone learned something from this video and they can make their soft start as safe and as pretty and professional as they want. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@volvo09 I try not to touch em, LOL. I will mess around like this with 120ac, but I don't fool around when I'm in there with higher voltage. There are some videos I have with the cover off of some high voltage stuff, and in the videos it may look like I'm close, but I'm not, and I even double check the area where I will be walking around when recording so I don't trip/slip/stumble and fall face first into something that will burn my face off and kill me. I am even afraid of DC of 48v or more. DC is way more dangerous than AC in my opinion. I designed and installed my own Solar and it is around 500v DC and that is no joke. You won't see a video of me playing with that.
Meh, I've done sketchier and lived to tell about it. I really freaked out a neon sign repairman once when I bypassed a 120v photocell with an alligator jumper to turn the sign on at work.
@@makerjeff86 Lots of fun. I had to do some emergency repair one night and all I had for lighting to see what I was doing was scratching the wires (120ac) together to get some sparks.
I hadn't considered this. I have a bench supply I use on occasion when I need big power. It has twin secondaries 20.5vac @ 30a. I did put a soft start on the secondary side to limit the inrush to the 4 x 60,000uF filter caps because the thing used to pull the lights down on power on. Good vid! I'll make another modification next time I dust old Bertha off. Cheers.
Yes, and if you do just a little testing you can come up with a resistance and an amount of time needed on the primary side and you won't need it on either of your secondaries. These soft start mods not only stop the thump, and in your case stop the lights dimming, it also protects your capacitors. Have fun.
I don't usually like class D either , GAN class D is decent. It's just a preference thing. Class D quality varies wildly. Whatever amp you buy make sure you can return it if it doesn't work for you.
Ya, Stephen Mantz wouldn't take em back, and when I told him one of the switches caused static when the bass hit and vibrated it, he told me I should spray some tuner cleaner in it, and if that didn't fix the issue, try and repair it myself.
@bigcbradio Wow . When a manufacturer doesn't fully support their own product. It really says something. Ask again nicely and if it isn't resolved it might be a time for a Twitter name and shame. Was there a warranty ?
@@drrckhamilton I've used quite a few, but the main ones I loved and drove the shit out of the American Bass Woofers were the Lanzar 700x2 and 900x2... not to be confused with the "dot series". Lanzar had a series that were labeled like 500.2, which was 250 per channel @ 4ohm, then they had ones that looked very similar but they were 500x2, which was 500 per channel @ 4 ohm, and those were double the power at 2 ohms, so the 700x2 would do 1400 per channel at 2 ohms. For example I would run a single 12" American Bass that was a dual 2 ohm voice coil, and I would run each channel of a 700x2 to each of the voice coils, and I would commonly see over 50 volts into each coil. 50x50=2500/2ohms =1250 watts, times 2 voice coils 2500 watts total in that single 12" woofer, and I would run it like that for more than an hour at a time and even after a couple years of that, the woofer is still tight and the voice coil looks shiny like new. To me that's a lot of power for one 12" woofer, and it doesn't just soak up the power, it gets louder as you add more power. Some speakers just soak it up but don't seem to get louder. I love the old Lanzar. I have old Lanzar amps all the way back to when they were made in USA and they were black and red.. Have Fun, Thanks for watching and commenting
Yep, this one came from under the seat of my 1970 GMC pickup. I originally installed it back in the early 80's, but, the truck belonged to my boss back then. It was a Jensen AM/FM cassette head unit (still there) and the amp was driving 2 Jensen 6x9's installed in the doors (still there). I acquired the truck from him about 15 years ago and removed the amp and connected the speakers direct to the head unit. I don't even remember why I removed it, but I did. Although this is my CB Radio YT channel, I posted these few audio test videos just for fun because I actually have also been installing, repairing, collecting audio equipment since around 1980 and I own at least 40 ~ 50 mobile and home amplifiers plus their related components
Looks like just a coil.. that's being used....not an actual speaker nor even the permanent magnets anywhere in the field...so no BEMF... & the coil under observation is placed on the amp??? that's an aluminium chassis..so whatever the mag.field of the coil.. it's going to interact with 5he components inside. this is a poor way of doing a setup.
You are absolutely correct, and I am sure if I redid this test with some real speakers and the fact that the unlimited random bemf that would be created by all the different type of speakers and crossovers and enclosures..... well, this amp, and every other D amp would most likely reproduce each and every type of wave and signal perfectly. My test is flawed. ROFLMAO BTW, the reason I used that coil instead of a resistor or an actual speaker was so the amp would have a fighting chance of producing a decent wave 'without' the chance of random bemf while still letting it see some inductance. If you have ever seen the widely varying amount of impedance in a speaker in motion or the widely varying amount of back emf created by a single speaker in motion, then combine that with the widely varying differences in those parameters among all the millions of different speakers, crossovers, enclosures, etc, etc, etc, there is no way to expect the output filters of a class D amp to, well.... hopefully you get the idea. And since you brought up bemf, you should see what the difference in the ohm load on a D amp does to the signal at different loads and frequencies, it is disgusting. Then compare those results to an AB amps output signal at varying loads and frequencies. It is not even a close race. Also, one last note. Look at the video I made just minutes before this video you are complaining about, it is here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-aMFEkzF5jPM.html it's where I test a 40 year old Sanyo AB amp with the voice coil also on top of the aluminum cover.
@@analoghardwaretops3976 maybe, but I have tested many class D over the years, and they are all horrible. I just happen to have this and a few others laying around still, left behind by the original purchasers that had me install AB in their place. How about this? I have some FOCAL class D amps also. Everyone loves FOCAL, maybe I will video them soon.
I understand your point but I think your assessment of “junk” is too simplistic. The square ware is the worst case scenario. You are right to look at this. A square wave is an infinite number of harmonics. This amp could produce enough harmonics of the low frequency to approximate a square wave. However there is no need for this amp to be able to produce harmonics in the 40kHz and 80 KHz range. So the result is the square wave didn’t look even close. But this is an audio amp. You would not be listening to square waves at 10 and 20 kHz so it doesn’t really matter that it can’t faithfully reproduce those. It does very well at audio frequencies producing sinusoidal waves. That’s what it is for.
Junk may be simplistic, but I believe it is accurate. Also, I am going to have to disagree with many of the points you mention in your comment. First, in my opinion the square wave is not the worst case, but more likely a square wave combined with other waves. Example: once a square wave has the output holding a high DC voltage, then you introduce another signal, what will happen? Second, you say (as many say) "a square wave is an infinite number of harmonics". It is not, you can theoretically "electrically" combine infinite harmonics to create an electrical square wave, but then you do not have the harmonics anymore. Try using an infinite number of speakers to reproduce an infinite number of harmonics and see what that sounds like. Third, you comment that "This amp could produce enough harmonics of the low frequency to approximate a square wave".... NO it cannot, you even say "the result is the square wave didn’t look even close" those are your words, and in the video you can clearly see that that it cannot reproduce square waves, even at 2k. Forth, you say "But this is an audio amp. You would not be listening to square waves at 10 and 20kHz so it doesn’t really matter that it can’t faithfully reproduce those." YES, It DOES matter, and YES people do listen to square waves at 10 and 20khz.... there are literally millions of songs with square waves of all frequencies out there. There have been synthesizers out there for many many years that create square, triangle, sawtooth, and many more of those types of waves and they are used in music at all frequencies. Fifth, you say "It does very well at audio frequencies producing sinusoidal waves. That’s what it is for." That statement is wrong, maybe that is all junk D class amps can do, but audio amplifiers are not just for sine waves. Music is absolutely not just sine waves. Audio amplifiers are suppose to reproduce the wave that you put in, not just sine waves, and as I mentioned in point number 4, there are millions of songs out there that use square, triangle, saw tooth, etc.... waves. Synthesizers have been around for many years and there is a ton of music out there with all of those waves from even below 20hz and above 20k. Finally, I would like to mention, all that junk in the signal you see when this amp is trying to produce a square wave.... that junk is going to be heard thru your speakers, junk that is not there in the recordings of your music. My opinion.... Class D is JUNK as I stated before... and for anyone who is going to mention that speakers cannot produce a square wave, yes, that is true, but I want the signal that is going to my speaker system to be as true as possible. Every little bit of distortion in an audio signal, from the limits of a microphone, mixers, amps, recording media, etc... it all adds up in a negative way, but I have rarely seen any device in an audio chain that adds as much distortion as a class D amp period. I would rather listen to the worst AB amp over a D any day. Cheers
HaHaHa, no insult taken. I have worked in the electronics and tech sector for almost 50 years and I have a cell phone, I know what a mouse is (the 4 legged kind), and I've used a dime to make a phone call before... LOL. I also have web page servers and email servers that i currently own and operate. I also have the latest and greatest radios and repeaters here, but, all that being said, old radios are my passion... well, that and steak dinners. No insult was taken, some people take this youtube stuff wayyyy too serious. I am here for fun and to poke fun. So yes I mave have been born in a cave or under a rock and I may leave the barn door open sometimes, but Enjoy
But to use this rig for EC you need to get out your calculator and cut some crystals to get down to the 6500-6700 range. The old Kenwood TS-440S would be easier.
@@KandiKlover Crazy Radio People all throughout the air waves, but this FT-101 is designed to stay in it's lane most of the time. I have other radios that will go above, below, and all in between, but I actually rarely talk on any of them. I mostly collect radios, but in recent years I have been selling off a lot of them. Many of the radios in my videos I have sold already.
The way I did the mod was to remove the 100k squelch variable resistor from the front of the radio (remove the nut, leave the wires attached, then keep it inside the chassis WELL INSULATED and turned to the position you intend to leave it in). Then in it's place install a 5k variable that will fit in the original squelch place and use the same knob as the original squelch knob. On the circuit board is a small variable resistor labeled VR6, that is the factory 5K VR, you will remove that VR6 and keep it in a safe place because we never throw away parts. Then you need to run 3 wires from the 5kVR you installed in front of the radio and solder them into the 3 holes left from removing VR6, and in the same order as the original small VR6. (if you can't figure out that order then you probably shouldn't be working on electronics)... If you did the mod properly, that right there will give you a variable dead key... You can stop right there if you want..... but: If you want the variable dead key to be a specific range, such as 1~ 4 watts like I have done in this video, you will need a dummy load to be accurate, and then set your new VR at 1 watt deadkey, unsolder the wires from the VR and measure the resistance from the center to the two outer tabs (write it down), then reconnect the VR and set the deadkey to 4 watts... then unsolder and again measure the resistance from the center to the two outer tabs (write it down). That will be a total of 4 resistances. Now unsolder your new VR again and get out a bunch of small resistors and have fun installing them across the tabs until you come up with the correct resistors that will give you resistance settings close to what you have written down. You will want to get pretty close to what you have written down. You will want these resistances to be when you have the new VR rotated all the way up and all the way down. If you get the resistances close, re-solder your 3 wires and test to see if you are happy with the full range of power setting. If you aren't happy, rinse and repeat. Note: I never set my variable to be able to deadkey more than the 4 watts, there is no sense stressing the stock components and then sound like doodoo and possible burning up the radio. NOW THE IMPORTANT PART !! YOU HAVE THE 2 BUTTON VERSION.... that is an 858 chip board and the AM Power is "VR8". I do not know what the resistance of VR8 is in your radio, but you should be able do the same mod to your radio, just make sure that you use a VR that is the same resistance as the VR8 you will be removing in your radio. Just to be sure, test the range of VR8 in your radio to make sure it has enough range that you can use before you go thru the trouble of removing/replacing it. Have fun
@@bigcbradio what I meant by memories is talking to that location, i’ve been on the radio for a long time since my early teens I’m 61 now I also have a butt load of radios🤣👍!!!
I already knew this way before I watched this that these transformers are terrible for low power or continuous operation due to their saturated design. however, to just yolo it and adding more turns like you did here is not really a best cutting edge solution I would brag about either as it will not solve all downsides these transformers have. But hey who am I to know. A better solution would be to wind a completely new primary winding for it calculated for the lowest possible current draw under no load condition. a well made transformer should have barely any current draw at all when no load is applied to it, the issues with microwave trannies is that the sheets are welded together making the Eddie currents worse in the core so it simply can´t become a good transformer even if you re-wind it really good. I would simply just use these cores for simple work and keep it for such instead of being cheap and crappy. But I do admit that adjusting the primary side is more important than most people say. and for god sake if you know your smoke detector battery is flat just go replace it when you know you making a video with it in the background
Yes, adjusting the primary side is very important, and yes an ideal transformer will have almost no draw at all. If anyone here is trying to make an ideal transformer they should do some serious calculations, then go by a toroidal core and some new wire, but I don't think people hammering and / or cutting apart MOT's here on YT are trying to get that technical. Anyways, thanks for the comments and if you can, run over to Arizona and pick up my 20' ladder so I can reach my smoke detector, or bring me your ladder and a battery. Alternatively you can turn down the volume and use the closed caption feature😁. Since you said "A better solution would be to wind a completely new primary winding for it calculated for the lowest possible current draw under no load" aren't you kind of defeating the purpose of using the MOT to begin with? You might as well just tell YTubers to just go by a blank core and a bunch of wire and start over. You are defeating the whole purpose of repurposing the MOT to begin with.
I would happily change the battery for you if you would pay for the trip but I am on the other side of the planet so it is quite a bit of travel to do so I’m afraid
Well if anyone has ever had a decent conversation with you, they would know your sarcasm. Good info. Maybe throw in a little ohms law for the future young nerds out there. With the same V as R goes up, I goes down. This also lowers P, but how many watts do you really need? 😊
