Hi, take a look at the uSDX group on FB and look in the files section, you'll find the pin out details there for all models. Good luck and thanks for the comment.

Hey, apologies for the delayed response. I still have the e53 and that side of things still working. Sadly though, I cant help you with your wire colours. I think...at the time I found a diagram of the ehc module using a google images search and that had the wire colours. Hope that helps, good luck and thanks for viewing and for the comment.

any reason you decided to do the timing chain? was it rattling? I have 174k on mine and it's never been done but no rattle? everyone says life of the engine or unless it rattles?

Back in March 2024 I got my uSDR+ and I made this mod after seeing this video, I used jumpers to make it work because I didn't have any tape on hand but it really made the little thing better even on receiving signals I couldn't transmit until last week when I finally got my license and the thing works perfectly. I have made a couple of great contacts so far the latest one being to Slovenia from Nova Scotia Canada almost 6000km away. Thanks for this video!

Hey im troubleshooting on the exact same component (e53 2axel air susp). One wire broke in the wire harnes and I had to cut of all 6 wires to splice it. Now I’m not sure of the color code to the plug. I’ve got black/green, black/thin-gray, black/fat-gray, black/oragnge, black/thin-white, black/fat-white. And funny enough the orange and green were originally on the middle pinns (3&4), but on the opposite wheel healthy sensor, it’s like in your video. So what’s the color code on your harness? I’ve also only got 5,0v to ground on the black/thin-white, I’m expecting to have two 5v due to the fact they’re independent. Am I supposed to have 5v on the other white or the other gray? Is the air suspension orange paired with thin-fat white, and headlight the green and the thin-fat gray ones (like you said in the video)?

In my copy, unfortunately, the external microphone does not work. Could you show me the connection diagram for your external microphone?

Can I have a piece of the diagram please? Will the RSP-1 not get damaged when transmitting? which one transistor is the responsible for switching transmitted/received?

Good job, what about chinese usdx v1? Any instructions to add panadapter?

Bought a second hand 'Black Brick' version a couple of weeks back and after several days of playing with settings I finally made a couple of QSO's one to Portugal and one to Italy. The audio out is very poor and muffled (any ideas?) but receive is brilliant. Use a 2EZRo Mag loop so a very portable setup. Four watts on 20 is the best I can get but the battery lasts forever ! I will open it up sometime soon for a look but experience on other bits -ATU's etc.- is that the soldering is often not the best. Be interested to see if mine has a missing resistor ? M7BLC

Excellent work

Just had mine delivered from Amazon, within the first 20 mins had a CW qso with a german station. Need to play with tye TX out and bias settings. Yes my RE clicks when tuning too! For the money theres great and as you say provide a great platform for experimentation. Great channel and I have subscribed since watching my first video of yours, you seem to be right on my level. Kind regards de Graham M0KTY

👍👍👍

👍👍👍

So you got Banged Good! I would never buy there again myself! Thanks for all your great videos. 👍👍👍

Glad to see someone's bench looks as bad (or good!) as mine.

Screws are in cup . Were you put them.

Good job mate ;)) i want to do it in my;) better firmware....

Wonderful and brilliant, This looks really interesting, and an affordable option for me.Did you say you connected the SDR receiver antenna input to the usdx antenna output? And that white tuning line is the local oscillator of the uSDX? Im sorry if i missed it but how do i connect the 2 items? cheers kevan

Well, you had me going there. I was saying, "how is a uSDX with an ATmega328P MCU and a 15 kHz ADC scanning the whole 360 kHz span of the 40 meter band while also still demodulating audio from SSB?" And I thought that maybe you were taking the I and Q outputs of the switching mixer and feeding them into an external ADC, but that wouldn't work because the op-amps in the uSDX can't run that kind of bandwidth at that gain, either. And then I noticed the "SDR" in the title, and now I know what you mean by "ghetto". I have one of those SDRs myself, so it really shouldn't be too hard to use that at the same time as the uSDX. I really like the look of your repackaging of the uSDX, by the way. It has the perfect blend of professional and homebrew to it, and anybody with a little knowledge in amateur radio would guess by seeing the waterfall display above it, that it's a much more expensive and sophisticated system.

Hi Jim, thanks for the comment. Not sure what's not true? Anyhow, since making this video, I've done loads more with these radios. I've since bought the trusdx and was pretty disappointed to be honest. I soon sold it on. Look at Rob Gw8rdi's code, and also in the meantime I have seen there's another version out there, can't recall his call sorry F5NPV maybe but that's from memory. I've heard really good things about. Great little radios for what they are, but just keep in mind their shortfalls. Have fun.

Nice review, thank you. I bought a (tr)uSDX about a week ago, and instantly regretted it, even before the kit arrived. What I discovered soon after ordering it, was that this is not the same radio as any of the uSDX versions, including the original one that the clones were all derived from. The problem with THAT, is that DL2MAN Manuel got so burned by the cloners with the earlier version, that he locked down the source code for the (tr)uSDX. So if you wanted to put a different display on it, or change the frequency range for one of the bands, you are out of luck. You said you are a DIY sort of guy, and so am I, so buying a radio that does most of its work in software, without the source code, is like buying an old-school radio without a schematic. Anyway, I was so disappointed in that experience, that I bought a white-button uSDX. I'm waiting on an antenna tuner, so I'm not ready to go on the air with it yet, but I've got the source code for it, so I know that if I want to customize it, or fix any bugs, I'm all set. To me, the only disadvantage is that it doesn't have the built-in power/SWR meter. BUT, what I discovered is that the circuit Manuel used for that came from an open-source project called Barb-a-watt, and if you look at the (tr)uSDX schematic, you can see how to connect it to the microcontroller, which means that the code that you already have would suddenly start giving you readings. Of course you'd have to wire the output from the uSDX board to the Barb-a-watt, then out to the Antenna jack, but this will give you what I believe is the only feature the (tr)uSDX has that the other uSDX variants don't. I will totally be doing this. I wasn't aware that GW8RDI's code included this feature, so thanks for pointing that out. I think the power/SWR feature can be added for about the cost of a burger. Regarding the price, yes, they clearly designed it to be built by clubs, because Manuel has a page on his site about "group buys", where the claim is made that the total parts count is just a little over $50 US, when you build 10 or more radios, and of course that assumes you print the cases yourself. One last thing: Guido's original design for a software-based SSB modulator use the microcontroller to separate the audio input into the SSB phase and amplitude, with the phase being used to shift the frequency of the Si5351a clock generator in real time (which was Guido's great innovation), and the amplitude going into the CW pulse shaper circuit on whatever the radio was that Manuel's original uSDX was based on, which may have been something called a QCX CW trx. This was a circuit that just ramped up the voltage being fed to the PA when the key is pressed, and ramped it back down when the key is released, and so it was a rudimentary form of amplitude modulation very similar to old-school plate modulation. So that was what Guido originally did. Now, whether or not that circuit exists in the white button uSDX, I haven't explored yet, but the point is, Guido did other testing and determined that doing that bit of amplitude modulation didn't contribute that much to the transmit audio quality, and in fact, he claimed that always having the amplitude at maximum made the signal easier to copy when it was down in the noise. But regardless of justification - and I disagree with him about the audio quality - I've heard a comparison between the (tr)uSDX and a black brick uSDX, listening to what these sounded like at someone else's receiver, and the black brick was significantly better audio. So that's a very long way of saying, the (tr)uSDX does not contain the amplitude modulation circuit at all, so it's not even an option unless you want to add some circuitry. Thanks again for the new (to me) information.

BEFORE YOU BUY a (tr)uSDX (and yes, I realize your video is a year old, so if you were going to buy one, you probably already have): I saw some RU-vid videos about the (tr)uSDX transceiver, and went to DL2MAN Manuel's website to learn more about it, and found where he listed the builders whose versions of the (tr)uSDX passed his evaluations, and went ahead and bought one from one of them. But then I went to download the software from Manuel, and discovered that all he offered was a compiled image of the code, with no mention of the source code. This kind of bothered me, because it had been said in some of the reviews that it was fully open-source, and even Manuel's own website implied that by saying that all of the hardware and software was available under a CC-AT-NC-SA license. Well, it's not true; a "no changes" license does not mean you don't get to even see the code or change it for your own use. And in fact, it looks like Manuel and/or Guido have been going around making people take down every posted copy of the source code on the Internet. So I went to the (tr)uSDX forum, and, oh, yes, someone had already asked if Guido's (actually) open-source code that was available on Github for the uSDX would work on it. Which is what I was going to ask. Not because I want to compete with Manuel, but because on a radio that does most of its work in software, I don't want to be completely dependent on them to keep my radio running. In fact, one of the biggest attractions to amateur radio for me is being able to hack together radios that can then be used for worldwide communication. I've never seen a radio marketed to hams that didn't include a schematic, and to me, a software-based radio for hams that doesn't include the software's source code is a ridiculous notion. It would be like buying a transceiver from Apple. What Manuel replied was shocking to me: he said that the code would not work directly, but someone with programming skills could probably make it work. But THEN he went on to make it clear that this was not something that he nor Guido condoned, because they wanted to have complete control over the configuration of "their" radios, and that if he wanted to do this sort of "software rape" (his words, not mine), he would he on his own. The main attraction for me was being able to modify "my" radio to my liking, so Manuel has pretty much forced me into buying an older uSDX+ model from an UN-approved supplier, just so that I could fix it if I needed to. And it does look like it needs a lot of fixing. Mostly minor stuff, but things like getting stuck in the 10m band if you tune it past the end of the band, requiring a power cycle to fix, but read to the end, this is what I'm talking about. Now, the (tr)uSDX I bought was a semi-kit (surface-mount components already installed on the PCBs), and I haven't finished building it yet (just got it last week), but I don't know if I even want to, now. As I told Manuel when we discussed this through email, I said that I would probably build the kit and use his firmware just to make sure it works, then wipe that off and develop replacement code from scratch, then distribute it honestly as open-source, to whoever wanted it. Anyway, for anyone considering buying the (tr)uSDX, I would suggest that you listen to reviews that include what SSB transmissions from the radio sound like on other people's radios. And I have to say, "not very good" is my take, and this isn't from listening to a tiny speaker, but what the (tr)uSDX sounds like on a Yaesu, for example. And there's a simple reason for this: when Guido got the idea to try making an SSB transceiver that splits the modulation into the phase and amplitude components and handling each separately, this was what he did on the earlier versions of his software, including what went into the uSDX and the "sandwich" 2-board version of it that evolved into the (tr)uSDX, he did the phase modulation by making rapid changes to the frequency commands sent to the Si5351a, and for the amplitude component he used a circuit that was previously used to shape CW pulses by controlling the voltage fed to the PA transistors. BUT, in testing, Guido concluded that the amplitude portion of the modulation in his judgment is not necessary. Not only is the audio degradation this causes "minimal", but it actually makes its signal more readable when it is down there in the noise. Which is true, sort of. I mean, the (tr)uSDX sounds like a radio with the compression cranked up all the way, because, well, that's what happens when you leave the amplitude pinned to maximum. On the (tr)uSDX, the circuit that was used to handle the amplitude on th uSDX ISN"T EVEN THERE, so you can't even MAKE it do proper SSB without adding a circuit off-board, and possibly modifying the source code to provide the necessary amplitude signal at an MCU pin, if he has removed that from the code. Which, if necessary, would be pretty difficult without access to the source code. Sorry for the long rant, but I'm getting a little tired of the misinformation that's out there about the (tr)uSDX. This radio is NOT the "true" version of the uSDX; it is a cheapened and crippled version.

I've got exactly the same model (just received it yesterday!), and I was saying to myself, "wait, the front and back panels are actually PCBs, so won't it ground through the plated through holes?" But I didn't want to spout off without being sure, so I removed the four screws, and saw that they had through-plated holes. "You see? Grounded." But then I removed the nut from the BNC jack, and saw that THAT hole wasn't through-plated. To which I said, "why would anybody plate the corner screw holes, but not the BNC jack hole?" But then I realized that whoever designed this had no idea about RF electronics, so on a hunch, I measured continuity between the holes for the corner screws. Nope. They bothered to use plated holes, but didn't put a ground plane on the board! So yeah, I think I'll be copper-taping the whole inside of the rear panel PCB.

Are you still planning on doing a follow-up on how to do the pan adapter mod? Id love to see that. I am also super interested in the video you mentioned about the amplifier!

Прикольный дядька...)))

Total whinging git, stick to shopping at tesco.

You could do this with the trusdx right?

Could you do this with the trusdx?

Witaj, czy mógłbyś udostępnić schemat podpięcia zewnętrznego mikrofonu, pozdrawiam Kris.

Why such a long video, get to the point. Could have been said and done in three minutes.

Doesn't seem to cost effective to burn waist oil if it's gonna keep destroying your heating unit.

Just found your channel and Subscribed. Very nice heater.

Just put that resistor in.

No actual information how to do it, no information about the SDR software..👎

A new thermostat called AirHeater thermostat has temperature on/off function. I was thinking of making it like yours. Perhaps if you give more time (and/or power) to the glow plug and delay the pump a bit, initial smoking could be reduced or eliminated totally?

Nice Video, well done Shane. Can you please make a video how to update the red corner usdr with the software from gw8rdi? I have this little Radio, but the wrong Firmware. Have you removed the 10nF C24? And disconnected the mike with a Jack plug? Many thanks. 73, Edwin DK2TY

I think these days, i'd start with a small plc. It would be easy to change and programmable so you could tie fuel to air. No need to build hardware to try something. But, a noble effort.😊

Yes, there are hundreds of videos showing why you shouldn't burn drain oil. Especially if you _need_ a heater that works. Where i live a couple of hours without heat can be a very big deal. Running on diesel, the chinese heaters aren't quite reliable enough. But, based on results, running them on alternatives is a hobby persuit not a reliable utility.

Crikey Shane, we'd be busy neighbours - you and I like messing with the same things. I feel vindicated. You've ended up with the navigation system for a submarine. Love it.

Its carbon felt (otherwise known as welding blanket). Acts as a wick. You can't get in to replace it and it can get clogged if you use fuel it wasn't designed for. I have a sheet of the stuff. Now if only someone designed/sold a burn chamber that bolted together so you could fully strip it down. I'll work on that...

Put please the video with that guy that took off the ring ?

A friend could not find his glasses. His wife found it a few days later in the fridge.

Do you have a T/R switch on your SDR that allows oscillator signal to “leak” into the revive input? Antenna wire to the case of the USDX? What’s the trick? BYW I use a $28 one from wish with HD SDR. Bang for buck performance is great.

I didn't know about them being clones of Manuels work until yesterday. I just happened to see a video of him talking about them. I'll most likely get one of these in tuis video first. I'm not a fan of the tr usdx orange 3d printed case and I can't seem to find any in a different color. I'm also curious about the bands this one is tuned to. They claim 8 band which is obviously a lie. From what I understand the tr usdx has three separate boards for different bands so I'm not sure what is going on with the clones.

Sorry I’m late… I’ve been pondering this question myself. I don’t think it’s a question of how to make it efficient, but how to clean it often. Water methanol injection could be the answer. A small port injection setup could be easily done. It could “rinse” at the end of use right out the hot exhaust.

interesting stuff but why is the video mirrored?

.....

Quite a reach on upverter

The disk at the bottom won't come out with heaters that have the weld around the chamber only the non welded.

Interesting hacking Cheers for the info on the IRF510s I’ll have a look into that I have a 6 band USDX with the small OLED display. Worked for 2 mins once I got it out of the box and never worked properly since. Hit TX and the display goes blank. It’s on the shelf for now. When I get some time I’ll have a look at it, but I suspect that it will be after I have fixed the half a dozen tube guitar amps I need to get going. One is a repair for someone. The rest are “project” amps that have worked to some degree in the past, but aren’t now, save a few others that are home brew innards inside an amp that wasn’t worth fixing. I’ve had a lot going on, and a bunch of music stuff happening too so no time for radio for me. I’m determined to get a few days in before the end of the year. Thanks for these USDX videos. They have been somewhat helpful.