I'm having a mid life crisis. I want to learn bushcrafting! Follow me as I go through a lot of "firsts" on my journey towards learning wilderness survival. Camping, kayaking and other adventures will be encountered along the way. As well as many DIY projects to keep you entertained.
Wont work with lifetime ENVOY, never buy this wal-mart product, almost all DYI techniques dont work with this model. For this teachnique the stadium seat is too wide for model
Very interesting idea. It kind of gave me an idea on what might be possible on an older metal shed I have to really change up the look besides cleaning and repainting it. Thank you.
I'm in the process of making one of these myself and found that all you had to do was file the edges of the cap with a nail file and it would be beautiful and smooth just like the smooth side - no need for all the hard work or bolts! Good fishing kit...looking forward to using mine. Like you, I haven't been fishing for years either. 😊
Supposedly the siding is what make the shed solid (not shaking), Do the pickets make a structure to not shake like the big siding squares do? and I dont think this way is cheap with each picket costing more than $2.
By my approximate count based on how far two pickets cover together she used 90 pickets @ $2.00 for around $180 . LP smart siding is about $45 a sheet , T1-11 is around $40. A guess of 8 sheets and you are in the $350-$400 range. Big difference in cost there! Granted the siding would provide a lot more lateral stability vs. the pickets, but remember it is an attached shed, not living space.
A light sanding.... a little direct heat to smooth out the plastic... then a quick shot of clear flex seal.... let it dry.... and throw the sticker of your choice over the spot! No one will ever be the wiser! LOL
Well, when I did it the price of wood was really high and these were still reasonable. I looked at our wood fence one day and went....why can't we just use that same material. haha
I'm an old ski repair tech guy and I'm about to do this to my boat, but differently: 1: use a propane torch! 2: the first drops will be black and sooty, with a good blue flame the p-tex will drip clear. Drip directly into the scratch. 3: After it cools, scrape off the access with a flat, straight edge. - this is the exact stuff we used to repair ski bases. The material is polyethylene, the same material as ski bases and some roto-molded kayaks.
I think you did a great job with it. You got your tent, sleeping bag, etc in there, and on slow water, you don't need to worry about things getting to wet. Heck once its full and you secure the top down you can even put stuff on top with bungees. If you are able to handle the yak without difficulty and you are comfortable that's all that truly matters. You just want to stay within the weight limits of the kayak.for safety.
If you use a 3/4" threaded plug it fits in the 1" PVC pipe so tight you have to tap it in with a hammer and there is no need for any epoxy or anything. Just make sure there both schedule 20 PVC. Also be sure the PVC pipe is cut smooth and evenly and the perimeter of the plug will fit flush with the pipe and will have no hangover whatsoever allowing the line to peel off with no problem. I Have had this setup in my Bushcraft bag for the past 12 years and I have used it multiple times every single summer since I've made it back in 2010.
This is about the best-looking DIY setup I have seen. Laying on metal rails, no plywood planking, and looks like a launching trailer. Are the lights okay to get submerged through? Do you do the interest at 60-65 with it? Good work.
