Wood finishing - wow, it's a big topic and there's a lot to learn. And that's why we have this video channel. Most often our videos are on wood finishing tips and tricks specific to a type of wood. Hopefully you'll find them useful and informative for helping you get the best finish you possibly can in your woodworking projects.
We're a retailer of hardwood lumber like cherry, red oak, walnut and all your favorite exotics like purple heart, zebrawood and about 90 others. So sometimes our videos incorporate some relevant information about how to work with certain lesser-known woods to help you in your woodworking endeavors.
Please enjoy and ask questions if you have any. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This channel is operated by Mark Stephens of Woodworkers Source. Contact him by phone or email. 480-344-1020 (xt 110), mark@woodworkerssource.com
I'm on the fence about quarter sawn oak. the medulary rays are a special feature of this cut, but they remind me of stretch marks on human skin. Not sure I like it. OK, I'll try to like it.
I’m not a woodworker but I’m not convinced the blade makes a difference unless one blade cuts more ‘efficiently’ - meaning, the blade converts more of the imparted energy from the blade into sound and kinetic energy of faster-flying wood chips, and less into heat. Or…. if the ripping blade is lighter and allows for a faster speed and more kinetic energy. I can’t imagine one blade being designed to cut less efficiently, though.
It's not so much that one is designed to be less efficient, but moreso that a ripping blade tackles a different job than a combo/general blade. The ripping blade typically has ~24 teeth and a flat head to hog out more material (the fewer teeth providing less resistance to essentially cut faster, I think), but this sacrifices quality as the cut can produce more tearout. A combo blade is typically closer to 50 teeth and is more of a finishing cut that (should) but cleaner. In our experience, it's all a combination of blade, saw power, taking multiple passes, etc. to produce a better clean cut.
@@WoodworkersSourcecom So, I’m thinking physics here. When the tooth of the blade hits wood, it has to wedge itself into the wood and split a small chunk of wood. The work that it is doing is lifting wood from the wood adjacent to it, breaking the cellulose and protein fibers etc etc A blade that is less sharp, in theory, won’t wedge in as easily and therefore won’t lift. It will rub and push and pull, and this pulling will not break fibers as quickly, Allowing for rougher edges. A faster-turning blade will help. As will a sharper blade. And, perhaps, a blade whose teeth have a more acute cutting angle. Beyond those, I don’t see a blade design making a difference. Am I mistaken on this?
I can't say with full conviction. But yes, a sharper blade and the cutting angle are factors. I don't believe any table saws have an ability to change speed, but surely the higher horsepower would minimize the speed lost as the wood creates resistance.
9/11/2024 - After the first code is dry, you said do it all over again. Did you mean sand with 220 grit again or should we just skip the sanding with the 220 grid and apply the second code of tung oil and then wet sand it?
9/11/2024 - After the first code is dry, you said do it all over again. Did you mean sand with 220 grit again or should we just skip the sanding with the 220 grid and apply the second code of tung oil and then wet sand it?
Thanks so much for your video! I have a bamboo counter block that I have drilled standing desk legs into and have found a lot of competing information about how to finish it. Based off of your video, I’ve decided to go ahead and use Danish oil. Would you say that a clearcoat polyurethane afterwards is necessary or can I just leave, the oil?
Wonderful and thorough approach to one my favorite wood species ! Nobody else here on the Tube has even come close to all you variations of finishes when dealing with Mahogany. Although there is one finish that i'm still in search of, which is an old classic systematic technique where a pre soaking of the grain with boiled linseed oil imparts a transparent depth to the finished wood; i'll have to do some experiments. Thanks 4 posting 👍
I didn't know we can stain between 2 finishes until now. I thought finish(varnish,lacquer...) should always be the last step, and it is hard to stain a finished surface, interesting!
There’s some bad information in this video. Anything made of ipe and many other tropical hardwoods definitely won’t need to be rebuilt for decades if done well with or without being refinished. Grayed out teak or Ipe may not look like you want but it’s not deteriorating. Also I’ve never heard of oil being extracted from teak trees. It’s what you said, a mix of different oils and you can’t really know what it is exactly.
just a crazy thing I do with exterior wood projects is use little blocks of pvc/azek for under leg areas so no wood is sitting in water...if the project is painted paint them and they blend in or paint them black for stained wood. usually 1/4 - 3/8" in ht gives it enough clearance without showing them off to help a lot of water soak during rain.
Thank you for the tips on staining/oiling/finishing. I'm working on a project board for my sister's birthday, and your tips will help me get it finished. I needed to know how to treat the zebrawood. I've got a long wood plank that I wanted to bring out the zebra striping of the wood, then I plan on doing photo transfer of a collage of pictures from her being a baby up to her adult self now. I needed a light stain or something to bring out that wood stripe but not a finish, so I can still do the photo transfer on top of it, THEN put the finish over all of it. Your tips will help me though, so thanks for the video! GORGEOUS table you made, btw!!!
I'm not much of a woodworker but I've been using poplar for years. One simple example, the fence on the radial-arm saw - which is sandwiched between parts of the top, has to be straight (keeping cross-cuts square) and smooth since when the blade is turned 90 degrees for rips it becomes the rip fence.
I’ve used pre finished for years primarily to eliminate having to coat the interior of my cabinets. It’s awesome and well worth the extra few bucks. 🤙🏼
I disagree with you saw blade comments, and my qualifier as a seasoned professional is I have probably built thousands of cabinets in my long career. If you use a better saw blade, designed for plywood cutting, you will get much cleaner cuts. I would never cross cut plywood with a big box store 40 tooth saw blade. Forrest Saw Blade company has a Woodworker II saw blade that would work. There are a few more companies out there but you won’t find their saw blades in big box stores. Most of my saw blades cost well over $100.00. As to the subject at hand, I have been using a pre-finished UV maple plywood from Columbia Forrest Products for so many years I can’t remember. It’s better looking than that birch by a long shot. Just saying.
Thanks for the great tips on cutting plywood Mark! I also love the prefinished plywood for making interior signs with a router. After routing out the letters you can easily paint in the lettering with water based paint colors to make it stand out. Any paint that goes outside the lettering onto the top prefinished plywood can be easily wiped clean with a damp cloth. Have used it for cabinets and drawers too. I was surprised how tough the finish is.
@@WoodworkersSourcecom I'm a huge fan of Eric Rhoten and love making signs using his methods but I actually learned to do this when working at Rockler for 10 years. We would make signs on the CNC using prefinished plywood and then paint in the lettering. It looks very professional and is so easy. I'm sitting here watching Tamar build cabinets and she used your beautiful maple plywood for the front faces so they would look real nice. I'm looking forward to a trip to WWS as soon as the temps cool down. Shouldn't be too much longer! Hi to Corey Milstein.
Could you please leave a link to that wood butter that you used? It would be very helpful. Your 'Premcore Plus White Birch Plywood' is awesome to work with. Very light weight, but still really strong. I use it now for all of my workshop projects. I really like your 3/4" Baltic Birch Plywood as well. Very clean. I'm making some really cool plywood pattern stuff with it right now. I haven't run across a gap yet. Nice! My only gripe is that I wish you sold it in a bit larger than 20" x 30" panels. A 24" x 46" panel ( or close to it ) would really suit me. Think about it? The Premcore comes that large, so... Everything that I've received has been perfectly square out of the box, packed really well, and cut with a very sharp blade, so thanks for that. The shipping takes a while, but I can live with that if I get a quality product. The shipping is built into the price, so there's no sticker shock at checkout. You guys are doing it right. I think that my stuff has been shipping out of your Arizona store. Retired plumber in Washington State. Take care.
The wood butter is Elixir Wax here's the oil: www.woodworkerssource.com/wood_finishes/elixir-wood-oil-finish-all-natural.html It comes from Boise, so you can probably find a source for it closer to you. Thanks for all the kind words. The Premcore comes in a 4'x8' sheet, thus it is easier to cut the quarter sheets, Baltic Birch is a 5'x5' so the 20"x30" is most convenient. That said, give us a call or send in an email we can (reasonably) cut a larger size for you most likely! Have a good one!
@@WoodworkersSourcecom Thank you for responding to my questions. The wood finish from your Idaho location isn't available online right now, so I'll have to purchase it elsewhere. 5" x 5" . Now I understand. I'll make do. Take care.
I am a cabinet maker little shop , bespoke cabinetry and I use prefinished all the time if I paint it I give it a 150 grit sand and tac cloth wipe spray it boom done !
@@WoodworkersSourcecom lot of Birch and Maple . Small batches it’s just me so I pick up less that 10 sheets of each and maybe 200 ln ft of birch / maple for FF and Fronts. I probably should order my drawer boxes to save time ? I am slow I make everything from the ground up !
@@WoodworkersSourcecom making drawers is really thee most over thought out part of a cabinet ? Anything past say rabbit locks or lock miters in some cases is just fluff ? Actually lock miters are fluff ? I like thru tenon joinery on drawer boxes? It’s easy with a domino and it’s strong ! Or butt joints done right are fine. Past that I order out !
