My cutter is about 20 years old but I’ve only used it a few times. It’s not been used for about 19 years, & I left oil in the reservoir. Oil doesn’t come out. I removed the head to look at the wick which is dry. Listening to your video I now understand the screw cap should be loosened. Perhaps that’s preventing the oil from dispersing onto the wick. If not, can I replace the wick?
The head can be replaced but I do not know if the wick can be. You could maybe try soaking it a couple of days in oil to see if it soaks it up but I do not know if that will work.
Unfortunately we are not producing any more videos at this time so here's a textual explanation. After the wire has been twisted, it can easily be formed (by bending it) either along an existing solder line within the piece or around the edge. It's best to tack solder it in a few places to get it in place, then completely solder it all along as you hold it in place with a wooden hobby stick. Once it's completely soldered in place, it's best to finish by going over the solder with the soldering iron to heat/melt to a finished smooth look, the same as you would on a normal solder line without twisted wire. I hope this helps you and thank you for your comment.
Thank you so much for your kind comment. Unfortunately, we have no new videos planned at this time, but we're so delighted that we've helped you sharpen your skills.
The metal for the antennas, is it 60/40? I’m trying to do small wire details and having issues with .6mm 60/40 melting and I don’t know what kind of metal to use that sticks, is easy to make into shapes that I don’t have to wrap impossibly small foil onto to try and make stay.
A most informative video. Thankyou Ma'am. My late wife was into doing the wire tendrals and once I found an old jewelers rolling mill on line for $60 so I bought it so she could flatten the wire designs a little faster. The mill also gave her the ability to change the gauge of the wire from heavey to light. I found some of her cartoons hidden away so for our children I'm making those unseen deigns. A thought rail tracks have a radiused top but if you make a base to turn your track upside down the bottom is flat and much bigger so making something flat would be a lot easyer. Thankyou and God bless.
Lead Came is a different than using copper foil. The lead is measured, based on it's location within the glass design. It is a soft metal so it can be easily cut with the proper lead came hand cutting nippers. Once the lead came piece is cut to the proper length, the glass slide into it. Once the lead is fit to the glass, it can be soldered at the joints only. In some cases where the span is long, zinc coated rebar may need to be used to support the lead and keep it from sagging. I hope this provides you with a simple explanation, but if you're seriously thinking of pursuing lead came, it would be wise to purchase a book on it or check out some of the instructional videos on RU-vid. Best of luck.
Great video! You answered my question (can I use 3-in-one oil) and told me something I needed to know (put your cutter in a holder, don't lay it down - to prevent leakage) Thanks!
Hello sir, what an impressive video, very beautiful, the art that you create, it inspires me to do things like that, now that I am starting to make stained glass windows again, thank you very much for the video and I subscribed.
Hi, good afternoon, what a beautiful video, thanks for the tips, they will be very useful now that I start making my stained glass windows again after 20 years, I already subscribed.
I made a rooster a few days ago and wanted to have it standing up but when I made the legs and wanted to solder them to the bird it kinda pulled the rimb loose (the outside of the bird, don't know how you call that). I tried making it stronger but it didn't work. The legs were strong enough but standing up is a problem, so now it's sitting on its butt, lol.
