Bringing my derelict 95 Cavalier back to life for its upcoming 30th birthday spent most of the last month painting the floorpans with chassis saver and cleaning all the hornets nests out of the body. The gas tank was a massive nest so I had to replace it just now getting new interior in from a 97 model. Does Duplicolor work on carpet as well?
This might be a stupid question but of the stud is broken 3/8 in can i still weld without worrying about threads? If the build up from the weld touches the thread does it mess it up?
For the ratcheting crimpers and connectors? Why do you recommend non insulated over insulated? I would think you'd get more use with insulated. Not all connections and be used with non insulated, but can be used with insulated. The insulated heatshrink connectors with the ratcheting crimpers are great. I guess you can use heatshrink tubing with non insulated if you need to, i just find the insulated connectors better, especially the heatshrink ones where the glue melts and seals them. I do have heatshrink tubing with the sealing glue, but the outside is clear so you can see everything, but i never use it because i just use the heatshrink connectors. Also, i crimp on the seam. Seems to be a better crimp. I always thought they were made to crimp on the seam. Edit: ah. I asked too soon. You did answer my question in the vid lol. I get that you can see it better, but ive never had a problem w the heatshrink connectors. They're transparent so i can see the crimp. I dont like the cheaper non heatshrink ones. You cant see the crimp, and i always felt they never gave as good as a crimp, and they arent water tight
Couldn’t agree more with literally everything you said here! I work for a high end European automaker and when it comes to wiring repairs, the only thing they allow you to use is their approved solder heat shrink ReyChem things. They use them from the factory and they’re awesome! However I have never EVER had any luck with getting a good joint out of them. I dunno how the factory does it, but no matter what, I couldn’t. They probably have a few million dollar machines that do it. Over the years I tried at least ten different heat guns and untold number of heat settings, distances, time, adapters, even the very pricey factory gun. No matter what I did I could never get a connection I was comfortable with. Same goes for all my coworkers too. So since I know how to solder and I think I’m pretty good at it, I took every single one of those solder shrink terminals and through them in the trash. I then soldered the old school way with dual wall adhesive lined heat shrink. Never ever had an issue with any repairs done like that! PS. At least in my world, there was two different types of that cloth tape. There was a tighter weave for wiring exposed to the elements, and a looser less expensive weave meant only to be used in the interior. Obviously you can use the tighter weave exterior tape in the interior but the looser weave interior tape will not last long when used on the exterior. I dunno how Amazon or other places sell it, but best to stick with just the one tighter weave and never worry about. The brand my company uses is Tesa. Damn good harness tape!
I really do like the double walled heatshrink tubing where the glue seals it water tight. I also like the heatshrink connectors that does the same. Never used the solder connectors. Never had an issue with the heatshrink connectors.
@@jacksmith2315 Yeah I dunno what it is, but I’ve never had any luck with the solder shrink connectors. What heat shrink connectors are you referring to? Does it have a mechanical connection of some type?
@@2down4up no there's no solder in them. Its pretty much them samething, but wo the solder. Like a combination of the double wall heatshrink tubing and an insulated crimp connector, so you get the strength of the crimp connector, and the sealing ability of the double wall heatshrink tubing all in one connector
Those styles of crimping tools are a waste of money. I've literally purchased 2 hydraulic crimping sets only used them 1 to 2 times and they both malfunctioned just from sitting in their cases in climate controlled storage.
I can’t even afford a $300 plus battery for my weedeater. You’re going to pay at least minimum $1200 and more to replace the batteries it’s a throwaway toy.
I agree with your terminology regarding the size of the saw. I did the same thing when I picked out my 14" saw. I wanted little big saw; which is why I selected the 40v Greenworks instead of the EGO; which, in my opinion; is a big little one. I own both brands and really like both of them; for their targeted use. As far as this Ridgid goes; I think it looks/is kinda ridiculous.
How does this compare to an eco + 18" Misting? I'm trying to decide to stick with milwaukee or invest into the eco for that one tool. Utah summer getting warm
You didn’t even have your depth of drive correct the whole time 😂 at the end you can see you had to set it all the way down in order to toe nail which should have been set all the way down in the first place for framing
That’s not 16 center 😂 you’re breaking right next to the stud. You hook your tape 15 1/4 for 16 centers so your sheets break in the center of the studs
The Dewalt design team have no idea. This gun had the opportunity to have the magazine set directly under the body instead of being angled, will look better. No need for a 21 degree magazine, do your homework and what type of nail sells the most, just sell one type of nail nine degrees is not gonna change the framing industry, the whole idea should be you can use any manufacturers nails that are readily available. Provide a more aggressive tip, how many reviews can the design team completely ignore… obviously the design team don’t watch videos or listen to their customers. Dewalt have had all these years to have a versatile belt and rafter hook, but only come up with this shit rafter hook …why. The flywheel tech has room to improve but obviously the R&D team didn’t get enough funds to be more creative. Get rid of the bowed handle, nobody else has one…. Tidy up your magazine and just like the Paslode provide a metal strip on the bottom so you push timber without worrying about cracking the magazine. Just like the charged battery nailers which have very limited opportunity to get lighter or better, Dewalts nailer can soon be obsolete due to the manufacturer not investing being creative and sufficient money. That will leave Paslode laughing all the way to the bank.
If you watched the whole video you can see towards the end he had to set the depth all the way down to toe nail 😂 so this whole time he wasn’t even at the right depth of drive for those 3 inch rink shanks 😂 I have this same nailer and I shot lvl’s together the gun had no problem.
I am curious on the weight compared to the Milwaukee? I use all Dewalt tools except nail guns I use Milwaukee. I bought the 18 gauge Dewalt used it for 1 day and took it back and got the Milwaukee.
This fool repeats himself for an entire 2 mins and 19 seconds. Literally skip until 2:19 to get to anything remotely valuable. We don’t need a monologue next time.
I hated the video and I'm leaving a thumbs down! Nah I'm kidding. I own the same grinder (model - PBLAG01) and it's a beast. It's a typical 4½" battery grinder, sucks up those batteries like shot glasses, but mighty powerful. Especially for a Ryobi, this one has some ass behind it and gets the job done (long as you have the sacrificial 18v). They're really closing the distance between them and the upper level of power tools like Milwaukee's offerings.
Pads don’t last long at all if you’re working it even slightly hard on an edge or corner. For the price and the special shaped sand paper you have to buy. 4/10 from me.
@@TBird89 DIY? Is this why most Milwaukee tools come on top for independent reviewers? Is this why the M18 Fuel hammer drill is considered one of the most powerful hammer drills ever built, as well as the M18 impact driver? I seriously think think you should stop dreaming,
This guy is a clown. First he doesn’t have the depth set all the way down for framing, he’s using 16 ring shanks which who uses them for framing? Plus if you did you would pace your shots. As a actual framer I used this framer for my yellow pine girders for my floor system no issues.
So interestingly the manual says finish mode is for thin metal and self tap mode is for thicker metal. Anyone have luck with finish mode on non metal? I thought it was to prevent stripping out screws.
Question-- The ½" model (DCF512) that just arrived sounds like a machine gun running at no-load. Is that normal, or should it go back to Amazon?? Was I just mislead by how smoothly the DFC94 runs??
This guy is a clown. Look towards the end of the video, he has to set the depth down a lot! So this whole time his depth wasn’t even set correctly. If case you didn’t know for framing you can set your depth all the way down and for sheeting osb or fascia boards you set your depth to where it’s flush on the surface. This guy had the depth wrong the whole demo
