A small channel dedicated to Mechanical Clocks, Model Railroading and Trains. The combination may seem eclectic, but both industries, at one point in time, heavily influenced each other. If it ticks or chugs, it has a place at Pendulum Station.
Real railroads "undercut" the stock rails, the ones on the outside, so the switch points fit into that cut. Grind a slight notch into the stock rails where the points of the switch engage them.
You should add firstly that this adjustment cannot be done on most early clocks from 18th. century and earlier. It is only relevant to clocks made in the last 70 years.
I have a clock that strikes about 2 minutes off. Even though it has a spring wound mechanical movement regulated by a pendulum, the hands are same as those use for quartz clocks which means your trick won't work. So I'll have to find a way to move one of the gears inside without having to take the movement apart.
Thank you for your video my minute hands not working. It seems very loose. I believe the center sleeve might’ve snapped the our hand chimes, but the minute hand doesn’t shine the hour if that makes sense.
Will this trick also work for a Kassel 31-day wall clock, or not? That's what I've got now at home. My clock suffers the same exact problem, and my local clock mechanic admits that he doesn't know how to resolve it himself. And so, I'd love to do this repair task on my own clock by myself without spending extra money - if I can. Thanks.
Thanks! I just found a really amazing 1879 wall clock made by Southern Clock Co. that also tracks the date of the month. It was in rough shape, but I got it all cleaned and working perfectly, except it was chiming a minute late and driving me up the wall trying to fix it. It doesn't have an adjustable hand, but it DOES have a little brass disk and a pin that holds the hand on, so a little light sanding on the inside of the square hand hole and a bit of bending on the hand, with the pin and disc providing the pressure to hold it in position, and it is now chiming when it should. :)
Hello from England. Not sure if you'll see this as I'm adding the comment 1 year after you posted it. I picked up Mary Queen of Scots example recently and added the front end detail to one end, onlt to find I'd done so to the opposite end from where the driver was sitting (schoolboy error!). So your tutorial on how to remove the body came in very handy.
Hornby & peco track .not much better. The old stuff .in 60s using series 3 and 4;track .. triang was then .then became triang hornby . Then.. Now just hornby But the rail was higher . Had more hieght off the sleepers and fish plates . The trains had a better flange on wheels, on them so it held on the track. Better . Rolling stock was made heavier. Plastic wheels were less bendy and bogies on steam trains were of alloy. Which was more weighted . I never had these problems then when I built a layout .in my child hood The track .cud be put together more easy . And away it went .often fast. Round track over points cross overs. Great..they were lovely. ---------------------------------------------- Recently .in retirement. Started to build one today . Taking 10years so far. The new track is flimsy . Hardley any height of clearance off the sleepers and fish plates. The fish plates often miss when joining them .& Bend easy . Leaving a slight raise .catching the wheels & derailing on the slightly bent fish plates. As the rail clearances are only a miner thow . Height. .off the track fish plates &:sleepers . The track today. Also as no strength .to hold it's own level as they did then. They bend a bit on uneven joined boards . We're the old stuff held the shape .the new stuff bends. Resulting in a sleeper .or fish plates joint bending up out of slight shape . And then wheels catch it . Jump a bit or derail.. On cross overs & points . Yes,, often as in the video. The. Bogie wheels catch the. Point rail . & As the point mechanism. Losens with use . It gets worse. . Also the plastic bit on points . And cross overs , often raise the wheels off the track.. All this . & Contunuis Derailments. . Cause of today's . Methods of making these things . &; the derailing problems. Caused by how it's now made. I have. Become .very.. disheartened . Disappointed . & Lost. Of interst. in it..
Very interesting and informative. I've noticed on my own HO scale (Kato Unitrack) layout that one of my locomotives, a Bachmann PRR K4, seems to get its driving wheels snagged on any sort of minute height difference between rails as well as the frog on one particular left-hand turnout. This in turn causes the leading trucks to come off the track. I'm thinking my two options are to either file down the rails so that they're even between joints or add more weight to the leading trucks of my K4.
If you're American, and wonder why the wig-wag signals in the UK have an amber light, it was introduced on wigwags after the 1968 Hixon Rail Crash to warn traffic to stop unless it is unsafe to do so.
If you don't have to take the base plate off DONT. You have been warned , the pickups move out of place very easily they slide inbetween the drive Wheels and the chassis with the copper plate sitting flat on the contact just protruding the chassis, before you refit the base plate. I found out the hard way, you have been warned.
Hornby sell a tool for undoing the hex wheel bolt, at the body end of the metal link is a plastic claw that clips onto a pin on the body Take care as the detail parts are very delicate.
That's all ok for driven wheels but you also need to clean the non-driven wheels which you do not talk about... which needs to be done...... so, I just stick to running power to the locos while sitting upside down in my homemade foam service cradle which is not only usable for locos but also for all rolling stock. I will have a video of how I made and use this, on my channel in the coming weeks.
I have a Sessions mantle clock with this same problem. The minute hand fits on a slot and doesn't have the ring on the backside to adjust. Any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated ! Your videos are great ! thanks in advance
This is the worst video I've every tried to watch! All you've done is video the back of your hand - pretty crap really, probably leave it to others to explain, eh?
I just discovered your channel. I like the way you present topics. Please, if you would, have a look at my comment from today on your wheel cleaning advice from two years ago. Cheers, mega . BTW, what country do you hail from ? I imagined you are from the U.S. but I don't detect an accent and your rolling stock has buffers.
I wish I had seen your video just over a week ago. I just bought a Tidy Track directly from Woodland Scenics. I figured since their reputation is so sterling for all their scenery stuff that this item would be great too. I haven't even removed it from the box it came in. Your points are well taken, but what bugs me the most is that they used brass rail. Do you think it might bepossible to replace the brass with nickel silver rail ? Maybe I should return it ?
I love Woodland Scenics, but this product always fell short for me. In fact, since this video, I think I've used it perhaps once. To their credit, I'm not sure I could design anything better. Most of the time I'll just put my models into a foam sleeve and manually clean the wheels. I'll tell you what has worked out really well though is the Trix HO wheel cleaning brush. I only use it when the wheels are really dirty but it cleans them very quickly and doesn't seem to damage anything. Might be worth looking into.
Big thanks for this, I'm an ultra-noob when it comes to model RR LEDs... been anxious to finally enter that world for years now. I got some WeHonest flashers recently and they look great, just wasn't sure how to power my circuit board (at least with a temp solution just to test the signals out). So this answered that question! I was fortunate that the American flasher signals are generally simpler overall, fewer details to mess up and just the two red lights... sorry to see yours didn't turn out quite as nicely in that department!
This is really great, honest and true review. I have recently bought a similar unit, and like you, it's my first. I cannot thank you enough doing for it. Excellent. I really appreciate you doing it in real time, as none others do it this way. Brilliant.
The main thing about this Loco, is that is has sound fitted, very expensive if you had to purchase separately, its the old 1980s Lima tooling, which was very good for its day and all measurements come out pretty accurate.. Hornby have re-engineered to motor and drive train and now a 5 pole unit... Add lighting kit and bufferbeam detail/weights and a mega bass speaker; you will end up with a very nice loco for a fraction of the price of a Bachmann equivalent model...
