Nice to know I’m not the only one that’s messed up with making the hole too big 😅. Very nice though, I personally would have used a pressure switch and bulb as it’s good for high voltage.
@@FrontSideBus So are you thinking about imitating the real Sun?🙂I hope you will make a video with this lamp. I currently use a maximum of 70W Metal Halide lamps, but there are many types and my favorite is the HCI-TT with Powerball ceramic technology from Osram, which has 8000 lumens and a slighty warm white light of 3200 Kelvin with 80 RA. It has a beautiful and pleasant light.🙂
It's very sad they've now been discontinued now. MA60s have to be the best motorway lantern ever, but unfortunately they're quite rare now. The longest remaining stretch that i know of is on the A13/A1089 in Grays
It does look like it has been run without the element being fully immersed in water and causing localised overheating of that element. You can buy replacement heating element packs for many of these types of showers at a much lower cost than replacing the whole shower unit. The replacement heater unit is often referred to as a 'shower engine'
I reckon it's because when you turn it off, the water flow stops and the water boils away because of the thermal inertia of the element and then it overheats. You could hear the thermal switch cutting out several seconds after stopping it. The replacement shower has a delay on power off, the water flows for a few seconds to cool it down.
Low Pressure Sodium was good in its day for when you just needed an efficient light source for wide area outdoor illumination. Thanks to more modern technologies, LPS/SOX has had its time. Even Metal Halide was preferable to LPS/HPS in street lighting, despite the increased energy consumption, due to having a way way better CRI (Color Rendering Index). Nowadays, you can't go wrong with LEDs, as they tend to do pretty much everything right - with the low power consumption that LPS had, whilst having a way better CRI.
i want that bulb as a lamp 😁😁id be more than happy with it id tould be a good bedside lamp as obviously it doesn't get that bright and it would just be cool, id imagine it would make a very small amount of UV and i could put stripes of phosphor paint on it to make it, well, any colour or colours id like, albeit dim, but it would work slightly nether the less
As a kid I have seen a funny low pressure sodium lamp that had a zig-zag shape in a fitting in the city, also only outputting a dim blue-ish light like here... I wonder what happened there. I'm from Germany.
@@FrontSideBus In 1975, the district of the city I was growing up was given to it by a municipal re-organization. The state of this lamp didn't last long. I think I have only seen it twice. But it took until the 2000s until they had changed it to modern high pressure sodium lamps. I think they used these AEG "Koffer" fixtrues. From 2015 on, everything got replaced by LEDs bit by bit. But we still have high pressure sodium in a lot of streets. There's also a part of the B8 (a famous route street through Germany) where it's between two cities, they still have low pressure sodium to this day. About 500 meters of street is still illuminated by these. They have HEAPS of spare bulbs they said, mostly high pressure sodium. They use them up first before fully switching to LEDs.
Also interesting, lamps hanging on wires never have been replaced with LEDs yet. It's as if there are no fittings for these made. Is it the same in the UK?
There was a Sylvania 70 W SON-T of mine that did something similar, though its arc tube sort of "half" went sodium-coloured. I suspect that this was a worn-out lamp with a depleted arc tube, however, as it had been used in a lantern. Again, these little lamp quirks are lost with LEDs, which either work or they don't!
Interesting to see the controller for this. I have seen this system used in railway stations in the past but didn't know if it was centrally controlled or as shown on each hi-bay.
I wonder if my setup came from a lowbay - I've never been able to establish what the long bracket that came with it did! I hadn't realised that aux circuits were still a thing in the (relatively) modern era - mine is 1983, and I thought that the setup only existed because older SON lamps and gear tended to take longer to warm up / restrike, compared to the later ones - you have educated me!
@@StreetLightOnline I have some big CDM lamps which run up and restrike in less than two minutes which is quite fast! Another win for LED is instant light output!
@@FrontSideBus That's impressive, given that MH lamps (generally) have a long restrike period. I remember being fascinated by xenon headlights when they began to appear in vehicles, given the rapid warm-up from a cold start. Yes, that is one definite advantage, though there's still something a bit magical of being on a SOX-lit road at dusk, and having *that* blood-red glow appear gradually in every lantern, and watching it transform into yellow over the space of a few minutes!
hi, let's try connecting a metal halide lamp to replace high-pressure mercury lamps through a quartz halogen incandescent lamp, but it may go out and the paw will not start or with the same high-pressure mercury lamp and try to run a 1000-watt metal halide lamp like this
150w as that was the first ballast that came to hand when I was wiring it up, but it could be whatever you wanted. The aux lamp module is rated for a tungsten lamp of 50-500w.
Hello, I just got a 35W Osram SOX low pressure sodium lamp however I can't find the right gear to properly power it. I have a 36W fluorescent tube magnetic ballast though, as well as a few glow starters, could it turn on the SOX lamp without damaging it or not ? Also the lamp has a BY22d base however I have found that it fits perfectly in standard B22 sockets. Can I use one or do I absolutely need to get an expensive BY22d socket instead ? Thank's.
It would certainly work but it probably wouldn't run up to full power. 35w SOX runs at 600ma whereas a 36w fluorescent lamp runs at 430ma. A normal porcelain B22 holder should work just fine. There is actually somebody selling off 35w sox gearsets on eBay right now for £20.
@@FrontSideBus Thank's. In the meantime I did buy a Philips gearset for about £45 and it arrived yesterday. Wired it up and it worked fine until I accidentally shorted the ballast wires, bypassing the ballast while the lamp was on. (I wanted to measure the current with my clamp meter and the wires were not protected, yeah that's dumb). Now when I plug it the lamp dosn't light up at all and the ignitor makes the same sound as if there was no lamp connected before fading to nothing in about 10 seconds. Inside there's a big resistor that gets quite hot and when it's unplugged it cools down and can do the same sound again if plugged back in. The lamp on the other end looks the same as before to me and connecting it to a CCFL inverter or putting it on a plasma ball makes it glow the same as it did before the incident. But I suspect the overload from having shorted the ballast did damage one of the electrodes though. Or maybe it's the ignitor that got damaged ? The circuit board and components look fine to my naked eyes though. Any idea ?
There was something of a battle royal taking place here today, after I'd put the two feeding bowls out - within the space of only a few minutes, six Woodies had turned up, and all of them thought that they were most deserving of the food! The daft thing is that while they were busy chasing off the competition, another would take advantage of the distraction, and start filling its beak instead!
Yeah I've noticed that! Two will be fighting and a third will sneak in and scoff all the food! 😂😂😂 It's funny here when the woodies try and chase off the rockies, despite being much smaller, the rockies have none of it and end up chasing the woodies off! They are much harder 😂
@@FrontSideBus Talk about taking advantage! Oddly, the rockies don't seem to bother with the feeding bowls here, but the woodies take great delight in bullying the little stock doves that visit occasionally! They're not so keen to interrupt any magpies, mind you!
